
Ep. 250 Lorenzo Fortini (Poggio al Tesoro) & Luca D'Attoma (Consultant) on Bolgheri & climate change
Bolgheri & Climate Change
Episode Summary
Content Analysis Key Themes and Main Ideas 1. The demanding daily life and responsibilities of a wine consultant, especially during harvest. 2. The significant impact of climate change on viticulture and winemaking practices. 3. The role and benefits of organic and biodynamic farming in building vine resilience and adapting to environmental shifts. 4. The collaborative relationship between wine consultants and winemakers in achieving successful wine production. 5. Balancing personal wine estate management with broad international consulting work. Summary In this episode of the Italian Wine Podcast, host Montego interviews esteemed wine consultant Luca D'atoma and his assistant Lorenzo Fortini. The discussion provides an insider's look into the intense daily schedule of a consultant during harvest, emphasizing the extensive travel and communication involved. A central theme is the profound effect of climate change on viticulture, necessitating adaptations like earlier harvests and changes in vineyard management. Both Luca and Lorenzo strongly advocate for organic and biodynamic farming, arguing that these sustainable methods enhance vine resistance and produce higher quality wines despite climatic challenges. Luca, who also manages his own Tuscan estate, Duimani, shares insights into balancing his personal winemaking passions with his international consulting duties across various countries. Lorenzo, working as a winemaker at Pojaltisoro, details his role in implementing Luca's expert advice. The conversation underscores the evolving nature of the wine industry and the increasing imperative for environmentally conscious practices. Takeaways - Wine consultants face demanding schedules, particularly during harvest, requiring constant communication and travel. - Climate change is a critical factor influencing viticulture, leading to earlier ripening and necessary changes in vineyard management. - Organic and biodynamic farming are increasingly seen as vital for making vines more resistant to climate fluctuations like heat and rain. - These sustainable practices, while more challenging, are believed to yield wines with superior quality, energy, and clarity. - The alcohol content in wines is generally rising across various wine regions globally due to climate change. - Effective teamwork between consultants and resident winemakers is crucial for operational success. - Luca D'atoma successfully manages his own organic wine estate, Duimani, while maintaining an active international consulting career. Notable Quotes - ""During the harvest is, the day is very full. Wake up very early breakfast. Good breakfast with hacks, ham, and, bread, and, many, many food."
About This Episode
A consultant in Italian wine discusses their personal and professional backgrounds and their interest in working with a legrini family. They also discuss their experience with working with a legrini family and their work with a minimal capital. They emphasize the importance of fruit and vegetable in their farming practices and emphasize the benefits of climate change. They also discuss their plans for future farming and their experiences with organic farming. They briefly mention a podcast on "G grandmother Grape Odyssey."
Transcript
Italian wine podcast. Chinching with Italian wine people. This podcast is brought to you by Native Grape Odyssey. Native Grape Odyssey is an educational project financed by the European Union to promote European wine in Canada, Japan, and Russia. Enjoy. It's from Europe. Hello. This is the Italian wine podcast. My name is Montego, and my guest today is Luca D'atoma. Hi. Luca is a consultant who's Italian, the who works in various countries. Italy, Spain, anywhere else? Yes. And also in Sweden, in Switzerland. And your assistant is Lorenzo. Lorenzo. Lorenzo. Lorenzo Fortini. Lorenzo say hi Hi. I'm Lorenzo. Where are you from, Lorenzo? I'm born in Tuscany plus Florence. Okay. So Tuscany, Vennetor. Okay. What is a typical day in the life of a consultant? During the harvest is, the day is very full. Wake up very early breakfast. Good breakfast with hacks, ham, and, bread, and, many, many food. To do it in time to say, for the piano, you Yes. Putting fuel in the tank? Yes. Yes, sir. In the hand, I'm a fool. I go in the car and, very fast, in some parts. It depends. I organized, the day before. I talk with, the home suggest in the cellar, the winemaker, also, is independent for the, the harvest, independent for the, the ripeness of the grape. I think I'm a good driver and, and, and also they they good, guest for team, telecom, Italian mobile because, I pay, I, yes, I pay, I pay a lot. I talk many time with with a seller, with the the the chief of vineyards, and they were making, and also the the team. So you have your own, you also as well as being a consultant. You also have your own vineyard in Yes. The the vineyards and also the Seller. And what's it called? Du Emani. So it's it's two hands. That's Yes. Your wife who's called? Yes. Elena. Elena. Yes, Elena. Okay. So you have your own estate in Tuscany and you consult. Yeah. What's your background? What do you do? I work, like a white maker in Project Azaro. Okay. Of a linguini family. So that's the Bulgaria state. Bulgaria states. Yeah. The allegini family, obviously, famous for the Bab potty chain, and some some polo of in and, I start studying analogy in Verona. Okay. Alright. Because, I have some vineyards in a Swab zone. Family venues? Family Vineyard. Yes. And, start the study, of course, in the end of, the university, I graduated, and, work with some project with a legrini family. I like our research for the university, but for the legrini family. And, a legrini meet me and, ask me in two thousand and eleven. In the end of two thousand eleven, if I want to go to the bowling green for the makeup technical internal, the white makeup internal of So what's the link between you and Luca Domma? You work together? Yes. Okay. We work together, and, it's important, the team, together with, Wemiekering Turner and the Wemiekah consulting because, look suggests, us, suggests me some things. And then my work is, realize the suggest of Luca. Okay. So what is the, being a consultant? What is what is the most difficult thing about being a consultant? You both have your own estates. You both have family estates, both of which are organic or buy out, whether that's a warm item. How, when you get up in the morning and and you're working on your own estate, Duimani, in your case, Luca. What is your mindset? Is it different when you go to work at Duimani, or when you're getting in the car and going to conserve How does your mind, how does your mindset change? Okay. Now, the the money is, now it's, the little, wine a bit. Small money. As well, six extra small. Twelve. Okay. But we produce, forty thousand bottles with, five wines, different wines. We have, a good staff, and they helped me also, andre lupi. Also, the other people in, andre lupi is organizes, my right harm. Your right hand? Yeah. And, for me, in enduring in the harvest, I say sometimes in the Duimani because, I'm very, a heavy, a for the the work in the different wineries. And, we talk about, now we are in, pojaltisoro. And the pojaltisoro is, very important in this area, big winery, many hectares in the vineyards. And, with the Lorenzo. We produce, the the Great and the the very big wines and the more and more. Yes. And, also in the the Vermentino and also so until the the cabinet frac and the sundry also, they planned with the cabinet, sovignon, the frac and the merlot. And we must talk about our wines because we have the responsible responsibility responsibility, to produce, the the great wine. I I said before, and, to happiness the people, the people, and also created also for the happiness for us. That was, a question about, Camium into a climatic climate change. Man. So I'll ask I'll ask you for a spot in for your work in your own estate and also as a consultant, how is climate change affecting your job, work as a consultant? Okay. The climate change, we feel a lot, the climate change. We call every where the time of ripening, the type, of grapes in the end of the investor, change this year's change a lot. In particular, for me, two thousand and seven, thing. It's very critical, intention, but, with a good organizer, good technical set. It's possible to make a great wine. Climate change, but the change also, changed the the management of vineyard change the the unification. So, Luca's nodding there. Why are you you're you're doing this? You're you're agreeing. So what are you doing as a consultant? Maybe ten years ago, you a certain way of working. Now with climate change, how is your work having to change? How are you adapting to that as a consultant? It's easy for me and so so is, for me necessary to harvesting before. So earlier, earlier cooking. Yeah. Yeah. Two four eight too much alcohol. And and Yes. Not the the alcohol. We we we we we we must survive without call. I'm sorry, but this is the really in my opinion. They are called, fourteen forty five, fourteen point five is normal in this area, and the, in the most important area in the world. Austin, Bordeaux, the the whole Bordeaux, the most important Bordeaux, it twelve point five with thirteen, now, Bordeaux, fourteen. Sure. And and more. Is it the same? Also, for example, in, in Italy, the north, Saudi roll, or, Validosta many years ago, and the call is a very low. And now it's, similar to Sicily. Sure. And it's important, irrigation sometimes when it's possible. For example, in my opinion, it's not possible. And, I and Dueman is not possible. And, I we're waiting the, the the rain. A fortunately project is always possible for this, the client is a very balanced. Well balanced. And, we have the vineyard in total area, very, very perfect, performance vineyards. Well, well done. And when he, yes, when it's possible to to harvesting when the grape is ready. It's very important. So when you're planting a vineyard as a consultant, still as a a a new field and they want to replant, is your choice of, rootstock Portinesto? Is that changing because of climate change? You're looking at more trap resistant rootstocks? Okay. The in Nesto, the the roads, no change. No. No. For example, many, many years ago, some people used the three three zero nine, but to Fable, Yes. Now, he was, four twenty or, under ten for, Rictor. Sometimes sometimes, sometimes, Paulson was pulsing in this area is no qualitative. No. It's too too much bigger. Yes. Too much bigger because we have the the soil reaching in clay, but no, the clay, very heavy. Fortunately with not too much sodium. But because that would also be the acidity and the pH. Yeah. No. The pH, is dependent the pH in the wine and the and the joys are dependent from the the harvest. From here. This year, for example, we are happy for the APH. Now after the rain, last weekend, it was raining a lot. APH is a little bit high, but now a lot. Zero point one. No. But the the grape is ready to To be hard. To pick up. Okay. Where do you see yourself in India? Shani, in ten years time, where do you see yourself? At the fissure we do have? I often like a lookout. Oh, yes. Yeah. Yes. I wish I'm Yeah. I'm at fifteen thirty. Thirty three. Okay. Lucas twenty two. Yes. Wow. He paid me fifty years ago. No. No. My my watch is, broken, broken in the forty, many years ago. You. Obviously, your life is in in wine. Do you ever see yourself changing to do another job consulting in my other farming activities or sticking with wine? Yeah. I have a difficult wine question, but, I see myself work again. Still in wine. Yes. Is still in wine. Yes. I hope, still in project as aero. Okay. And another another question, Luca has his own biodynamic estate with his wife, and you obviously work for organic and organic estate in, believe that all their estates are organic. Why how does organics make sense? Why is organics better with climate change? Why do you continue with organics? Shortly, it's more work. It's more risky. It's more difficult. Yes. It's more difficult, of course. But, it's the right way. Look out teaching me the organic system and the biodynamic, but biodynamic is a philosophy. It's a little bit different. But, the organic, after, four I can say it's the right way. Also, for the climate change change, you could see the difference immediately. Yeah. I can different, different, the grip, but, of course, the winemaker, the fox of winemaker is the wine, the fine white. And, all, think, the artist, the management of Vineer, it's the focus for the final wine. And, the organic change the grape for the wine. The wine is the black pepper. Okay. So you get better pH I I see a little bit of pH's asset strength in the mine, which is important. The the pH, sorry. Not a lot of phs, important, but it's difficult to load the pH. But, in the end, the energy of the wine, the quality, the, the clarity, I could say, is, by more in inorganic method. Luca, how do you see the future with, obviously, organics is growing, biodynamics is growing a little bit and climate change is definitely growing. How do you how does that mix effect I hope, in the future, it's more green because, many many people say this, but, I can say the, about the vineyards. The organic, organic growing is better are because of the plant is more, resistant of, warm and the and and they also and also the the rain. More resistant. More resistant. More resistant. Yeah. More stronger. And, for me, it's, this is a a sure sense, a sure way. Yeah. It's a more it's like an insurance, you say, like an insurance policy. Okay. Yeah. I'm sure for this. Okay. So I'll say thanks to my guest today. Luca D'atoma, and Lorenzo. Fourteen. Fourteen. Fantini is a a fantino is a is a horseman and Yeah. A siena. Fourteen fourteen is, strong. Fortini is. Forti. He's very he looks strong. He's got muscles. He's still as a rake. He's as a tree to do this to be race. Anyway, I wanna say thanks both to put both my guests today and, talking a little bit about workers consultants. And we spoke to folk a lot about climate change, but any consultant where whichever country they're in, it's the elephant in the room for for all consultants, I think, because all of all the rules getting out of the window. Anyway, thank you very much. You're welcome. Thanks very much. Change my. This podcast has been brought to you by Native Grape Odyssey. Discovering the true essence of high quality wine from Europe. Find out more on native grape odyssey dot e u. Enjoy. It's from Europe. Follow Italian wine podcast on Facebook and Instagram.
