
Ep. 1823 Emilia Marinig interviews Serena Gusmeri | Clubhouse Ambassadors’ Corner
Clubhouse Ambassadors’ Corner
Episode Summary
Content Analysis Key Themes and Main Ideas 1. The unique format and content of the Italian Wine Podcast, especially its Clubhouse sessions. 2. Serena Guzzmarini's unconventional path and philosophy as a winemaker at Montefili in Chianti Classico. 3. Montefili's terroir-driven winemaking approach, emphasizing vineyard analysis, microclimates, and biodiversity. 4. The importance of low-intervention winemaking to express the natural characteristics of the grapes and terroir. 5. The dual challenges and opportunities of working in a world-renowned wine region like Chianti Classico (recognition vs. competition). 6. The evolving role and impact of wine critics' scores and awards in the global market. 7. The concept of winemaking as a responsibility to protect and elevate the land. Summary This episode of the Italian Wine Podcast, recorded live on Clubhouse, features an interview between Emilia (Marketing Director at Querciabella) and Serena Guzzmarini, the winemaker at Montefili in Chianti Classico. Serena shares her unique journey into winemaking, starting in Franciacorta (sparkling wines) and Benevento (white wines) before moving to Tuscany in 2015 at the age of 33 to work with red grapes, primarily Sangiovese. She describes her initial ""cake slice"" approach to understanding Montefili's diverse, high-altitude vineyards, which led to in-depth studies of soil, micro-elements, and biodiversity (like finding wild orchids). Serena champions a ""vineyard-driven"" and ""low-intervention"" winemaking philosophy, allowing the specific characteristics of each vineyard to express themselves in the finished wine. The discussion also explores the challenges of adapting to warmer vintages, the balance between historical reputation and intense competition in Chianti Classico, and the nuanced importance of wine journalist scores. Serena concludes by reflecting on her responsibility to the land and hinting at future interests in working with white grapes in Friuli or Sicily. Takeaways * The Italian Wine Podcast utilizes platforms like Clubhouse for interactive, community-driven content. * Serena Guzzmarini's winemaking journey highlights unconventional paths in the industry, including a transition from white to red wines. * Montefili employs a meticulous ""vineyard-driven"" approach, focusing on soil health, microclimates, and biodiversity. * Low-intervention winemaking in the cellar is used to preserve and express the unique terroir of Chianti Classico vineyards. * Working in a famous region like Chianti Classico brings both recognition and high levels of competition among producers. * Wine critics' scores, while not the sole focus, still significantly influence market perception and sales, particularly in the US. * Winemakers view their role as a ""talent and a responsibility"" to protect, improve, and tell the story of the land. Notable Quotes * ""I have this flare for wines that are made in the vineers as opposed to just technically executed in the seller."
About This Episode
The hosts of a wine podcast discuss their upcoming episode, including a recording of their clubhouse session, a guest namedams, and a guest namedams. They also talk about their love for wines and their desire to stay with their former colleague. They emphasize the importance of understanding the natural environment and managing vines for success in the industry. They also discuss the importance of sustainability and social media in the industry. They emphasize the value of points and awards in the trade and encourage viewers to subscribe to the Italian wine podcast.
Transcript
The Italian wine podcast is the community driven platform for Italian winegeeks around the world. Support the show by donating at italian wine podcast dot com. Donate five or more Euros, and we'll send you a copy of our latest book, my Italian Great Geek journal. Absolutely free. To get your free copy of my Italian GreatGeek journal, click support us at italian wine podcast dot com, or wherever you get your pots. Welcome to this special Italian wine podcast broadcast. This episode is a recording off Clubhouse, the popular drop in audio chat. This clubhouse session was taken from the wine business club and Italian wine club. Listen in as wine lovers and experts alike engage in some great conversation on a range of topics in wine. If you enjoy listening, please consider donating through Italian wine podcast dot com. Any amount helps cover equipment, production, and publication costs. And remember to subscribe and rate our show wherever you tune in. Okay. Alrighty. Hello, everybody. My name is TV Kim. And this is the Club House edition of Italian Mind Podcast, what we call Ambassador Corner. Basically, this is where our Italian wine ambassadors at large get to interview their favorite Italian wine produces and we've been doing this for some time now. I'm in New York at the moment and I think like us, at the office in Verona, cha laika. Hi, Stevy. Yes. I'm here in Verona. Okay. So tell us, how many episodes? How many how long have we been doing this exactly? We have done, this is the one hundred thirty third episode so far. And what's the program so far for this week? Do we have another podcast this week on Clubhouse? Yeah. It's gonna be a lot for this week and the next weeks, because we're preparing everything, and we don't wanna go this year during the Vinitally marathon. So we are preparing everything in advance. This week is going to be now we have Amelia, Marina, interviewing Serena Gussmarie, month in Filly wines. And then so the next on Thursday, we're going to have another one. And also for the following week, there are going to be two. So it's Tuesday, Thursday, ideally. So, yeah. Okay. So for those of you who don't know yet, if you've been living under a rock, Leica is our she was the clubhouse manager, backstage manager, but now is Joanna doing that, Leica? Yeah. She helps me out and she Okay. Yeah. She's a big help. Yes. And Giovanni is working from Ecuador. She was our intern in Verona. She went back to Ecuador, and she's still helping us with social media and also clubhouse. And like, used to be the clubhouse manager, and she still is for the most part, but she is actually the podcast producer of Italian wine podcast. And as you know, the recording will be replayed in its entirety with some, I think editing by Leica on the Italian wine podcast, wherever you get your pods. And I saw that we were up to eighteen hundred episodes with our newly acclimated Pietro russo master wine. So check that out and I do have a small ask. If you can just give us a thumbs up, give us a follow, that would be really, really a appreciate it. Okay. So let's get on to our show today. Our guest, ma, today is, of course, Emilia. Emilia. Chow. Benny, congrats for, becoming the queen of the universe. You're now the queen of the universe. Right? That's what? Listen. It's just a job title. Nothing's really changed to be honest. I I'm doing the same all the same. Listen, Amelia, onto our show. You're, of course, you've been working with wine Italian fine wines for about twenty years now, and you have been working with Quelchabella, which is your current company in Canti classical. What is your official title? The queen of the universe is actually like yours. It's just the title. And I do everything. No. I'm just kidding. The marketing director, and also oversee the business development. How many people are there in Kochabayla? Not as many. I mean, office wise, like, people working in the office, we have probably seven of us, seven of us, including our sales director. Many more actually work in the seller in the vineyard. So we have a total team of thirty people. But in the marketing and communications, it's you and how many others? No. It's me. It's me with a little bit of value from my friends. Right. Right. Okay. Alright. That sounds good. I I still have to come and see you at Coachevilla. I know it's on my to do list. It just, you know, there's just one one of me. I have a twin sister, but We should do a for all the ambassadors. Yeah. We have to organize. But, you know, can't be such a popular territory that everybody pretty much goes on their own. So organized the juke that where, you know, people don't get there by themselves necessarily. Like we went to a market and it was actually wonderful, absolutely fabulous. This year, the consultant celebrates, of course, is one hundred years anniversary. Yes. And so so for Chabala's fifty vintage. Oh, okay. Twenty four. Two four. The twenty four is our previous vintage. Yep. Since we started. Yeah. So you might as well come and visit us. Yeah. This year. I mean, of course, we can chat all day, but let's get on to the show. Exactly. Because we have a guest. Her name is Sarah Guzmanire. And tell us why you've chosen Sarah Ana as your favorite producer to be interviewed today. To be honest with you, Serena, it's actually a very good friend of mine. So as you know, I moved to San salmon County more or less a couple of years ago from London after spending, you know, few decades around the globe, And trust me, it's not easy to actually move into such a small place. It's very difficult to make connection aside, especially a side work. So I actually decided to invite Serena for this talk. Because as I said, she's a very good friend of mine, seventy nine, her family have been very welcoming. And, they made us always feel, you know, feel at home. Of course, aside from the sentimental reason, I think that she's a very talented white maker. I think that during the interview, she would like to point out that she prefers to work among, you know, individuals rather than the seller. And that's an approach that, really resonates with me as well, because I have this, flare for ones that are made in the vineers as opposed to just technically executed in the seller. It's always, you know, what is is it the land or is it the man? Yeah. Right? That discussion. But did you meet Serena before? Going to Kanty? Were you friends before? No. No. No. So, actually, we have a little share. I promise you're gonna be brief. So we actually met last year at the Kanty classical collection in Florence, where everything happens, of course. And, on the first night, there's always a dinner that is open to producer, to the media, to, you know, trade, and so on. And you only met her a year ago. Yeah. Exactly. Ah, okay. It sounded like you were friends for life. Okay. But that's a that's a very strange thing because we obviously adapt over dinner and we start chatting immediately. We both love talking a lot. And testing a lot of ones together. And she very kindly offered to give me a lift back to County. So in the car, we were basically like talking, talking, talking, laughing, laughing, and, when we arrived back to Grave, you know, I left her my business card so that we could keep in touch. Mhmm. Because literally, that was the first time we met. And I never heard things for, like, three weeks. She basically lost it on me. And I thought, you know, yeah. There's another one of this Italian fancy winemakers, you know, promises you at the moment and then, you know, abandons you literally on the side of the road. You know, I said, okay. Well, nothing too bad. I spent a few weeks. I feel like couple of weeks, let's say, I received actually an Instagram follow request. Mhmm. And it was, of course, you know, I accepted obviously the follow, and I replied very angry, like, where did you disappear? You know? I'm not supposed that we made friends and whatever. And she replied with a screenshot of the business card that I left in her car that night. The problem is that it wasn't my business card, but it was my boss's business card. Yeah. At least there is an happy ending. We are still friends. We never stopped. Talking since. So we'll find out all about that. Even more because you're both very chatty from what I understand. So I'll give you some Oh, yeah. But what are the learning objectives from the call that you will be doing with Serena today. So I've seen a very interesting, talking point could be how Serena arrived at, Veketa Deli, when she was quite a young white maker, but the state wasn't. So she took over quite established a state in Canti Glasgow, and she basically turned it around in less than a decade, transforming the winery, you know, with a lot of intuition, with her enthusiasm, of course, with her skills and dedication, but also, I think, with a vision of vina driven winemaking, and she's gonna hopefully explain us better what she means by that. That really works well with making centralism. Okay. Excellent. It's only eleven forty one AM here, but I can still give myself a glass of drink, and I will be enjoying your talk. So over to you, I will be meeting myself and perhaps coming back towards the end of the show if there's any time. Okay. The Montecili. It's a mouthful. We can call him Montecili wines. Okay. Montecili wines. Okay. Goodbye. Goodbye. What a great beginning for their love story. Absolutely. It's our long love story. So sorry. And I'm, my dear. I'm just gonna say a few things about your biography that you very kindly shared with me in advance. So you were born in Russia, the north of Italy. So we are both from the north of Italy relocated in Canti Glasgow very happily, and you arrived in Montecili in twenty fifteen. Right? Right. Summer fifteen. You were pretty young. You were only twenty seven. Am I right? No. Come on. When arriving Montecili, I was thirty three thirty three. Yes. I was seventy seven. Uh-huh. You speak I'm young. Oh, wow. You're becoming younger. By the day. You arrive when you are thirty three arrives you by mistake. By by bad. By bad. My bad. My bad. My bad. My bad. I was twenty seven this month. Yeah. I think that, I got mistaken with your benefit or surprise, but so you're arriving county classic in Pansano. That's where the Montefield is located, from projects in Francacorta, which is quite close to your hometown. Right? Right. And then That was your big thing before coming to Tuscany. Right? Absolutely. Do you care to tell us a little bit about your journey? Let's say, the journey leading up to Monte Phoebe wise. We said that we're gonna call it. As you say, I was born in the north. So, obviously, in Russia, the main well known wines is the country court, and luckily starting with the sparkly. After Barriana asked, my previous owner asked me to move in, to better enter. And I say, okay, is in Campana, but honestly, I don't know really where he's located. So I took the knife and I say, okay. It's in the middle of nothing. But I can go. So I went his summer, two thousand and nine. I went to Benaventa, and I merged Benavento. This winery with twenty two actors, and another one's more, very lovely winery, Iniska always for the same family with four actors or Venus. On that time, for six years, I take care of the Venus, and they winery, everything from the roots to the cork before this, obviously, I studied in Italy, and I'm moving to Australia for an internship of four months. So I had the possibility to see different places and especially during the six years in the south. Understand much better what's my idea about the winemaking, my first of all, about the Vignals and the what I want to do, the day after day to manage in the best way, Davinia. So that time was the first step to make the roots of my knowledge in my philosophy for working. Yeah. It always, like, strikes me as, you know, you started, obviously, right after, after you graduated, you started to, you know, to make lines under probably some of the answers supervision. And then you had to move to Benavilinto different region, different wise, as we know, different challenges, and you pretty much devaluation yourself, which for me is quite impressive, you know, So you went basically from zero to one hundred in five seconds. That's what I meant. And that's, I think, that forge very well your character, your dedication, but also your very strong will That's something that came with the job? Or Okay. I arrive in Benaventa with my main one maker of the sparkling watery and they say, okay. I will stay with you for three days, then I go back. Oh, okay. Gotcha. Okay. So I tried to learn everything because, I mean, I just always I was a junior winemaker. So that was a very challenge for me thinking about to do everything by myself. But I didn't think I'm a few by myself. I had two very great, great men with me during that time. So, honestly, I put myself in this big experience in this challenge but they give me everything to understand to learn. And then, obviously, I try to do it by myself step by step. So it will say from zero to one hundred. Yes. It's right, but I didn't make everything by myself. I consider what I did during this time was my attitude to stay with the colleague with the team to stay with the people to learn about the place. And, when you are here from the North of Italy, I was twenty seven when I moved You know nothing about yourself. Absolutely. Absolutely. You just know about reading the journals and happiness. So that was an open mind for me, not only for my job, not even for my life. So That's what I think about my job. If you have an open mind, if you're ready to mix yourself with the community, then you can take the best of that time. And so, yes, I did a lot absolutely, and I did many things by myself, but not only by myself with the team that I yet. And how long did you stay actually in Benavento? I live in, in the South four sixty or till the summer fifteen. Okay. And how did you get to Montecipoli? That's another funny story. No matter. We have only funny story to say. So my important New York important for my previous one in Menavan Toni. I met him twelve years ago, in summer, fifteen, he called me and say, I will come on the island, you know, in spring, fifteen. He say, I will come on the island. I wanna meet you. And it's probably I need to move because my husband is in tasking now. My husband, David, moved in tasking in the beginning of fifteen. A new job, and I'm starting to look for a winery, consider from Tuscany to companies quite a longer trip every weekend. And so that was the time that I said, okay. I wanna stay with my husband. So I started to look for a winnie. In the meantime, Nicolea called me And so I told to you my story and say, wait. I'll look it for a place. January is quite impressed with my two partners with a couple of friends. I will come back shortly and say, okay. I mean, you can make sure of me. It's quite not normal to find. And after two months, he called me and say, we finally replaced, but we're missing the winemaker. We need the winemaker. Would you like to see the wineries in Pansano? Okay. I'm gonna come. So I moved from Venezuela just for a meeting, and I saw Montefield, and I was honestly really really impressed about the place, the position, the beauty, and then we pasted it some ways, and I consider I want to feel quite a lot of very interesting place for me. I decided to move in summer fifteen. I moved from Vinevain to to Panzano, and then I started my new life in Tuscany. But, so, except for obviously, the obvious, Marisha reasons why to move, to touscany. What did you find in Monte affiliate? Monte affiliate that's really made you decide to move once again? To come back. The first the first work that I had with me, Carla. When I came, I worked in, Vigna Becca. This is one of my label that I created, and I was really impressed to see This vina planted in eighty one Sanjay with a very rocky soil. I've never seen so rocky soil like a hidden telescope in county, that you can find South politically for me was completely different. That vineer impressed me so much. After that, we go around the world and see the different part of the property because every single vineer has a different exposition and that was like a feelings I consider that was something very special and unique to move to Montecili to recreate a life of this winery after a quite complicated time. So that Vina Vina Vaca gave me the feelings to say this could be a good new beginning for me to make a new life in the classic or a new experience. I think that you mentioned once to me that you also had the chance to taste some of the advantages of mentally. Right? And that you find something, something that you really like this kind of consistency and quite, I feel a rule, a territorial live and you said something like that last time we spoke. Was an eighty two? Winter JES. Yes. My hear that the eighty two, I I choose the eighty two. It was a county classic school in Istanbul, and I still have impressed in my mind that wine, that sangueza. The thirty three years old wine, and was still so pry. A flowering rich, freshness. The candy classic impressed me so much. About the potential of the San Jose in Montefield. So I consider that San Jose, like, a flag of the possibility what I was able to do in that place, and with the potential of the San Jose in this tiny and unique place like Montefili, honestly. We had this chat, last week about, your vineyards. And, you mentioned that possibly Montefili is one of the highest vineyards in Pansana right now. Right. It's correct. We have Venus from four hundred and eighty to the, I guess, it's five hundred and forty meters, and it's quite unique because the wineries in the middle and the vineyards are all around. And, what we have is a mix of altitude, three different type of soil and, different age of the Vina with exposition. So it's a bit quite a happy combination. Yeah. You mentioned about, you know, Montefini being, obviously, as we said, in Pansano, Yavinia's overlooking Montecirale, which is also one of the of the Uighurs of county classical, Silano, which is, again, a very interesting, very ancient, when making a place in Pansano, I find out, Silano, as well as the more traditional Concadaro, which is what Arfano used to be very no no. So different stories, of course, different geology. So what's your approach? So you're working with, different terawatts. You're working with, different micro climates as well. How do you make this work? When I came in fifteen, I consider Montefili like a cake. So I make a seven slices and I make seven different fermentation. Why this approach because when I arrived in August fifteen, I was no one, I was lost. And I never had no information about the place. So my approach was really easy. Every single thing had to understand the possibility of the single parcel of the property. And I had the same approach year after year. So during this, the first three vintages, we recognize very different, flavor, attitude of San Jose in the single parcel. So after that, I suggest to partner, to study. To make our study of the soil. So we collected the soil from a single vineer, and we discovered that a monte filly was created during the glassation with three different tanks that came up We have the soil of silane, absolutely the other part of the Cocaal with the Alberaise, and the Alberaise from the Monteferale coast. So that's quite unique because as you know, Sanjuvise is a great grape able to express this soil where it's located. So that was the first step to consider to make single vineyard wine. So I'm still working. I have a single vineyard like to make a single one. I know it's difficult to go into details. We don't have this much time. That's right. And we still have like a lot of questions we'll go through. But what would you say is the difference between, let's say, the Silano area, the Concord and Montecirado? Very briefly. It can also be, like, fresher, you know, bolder, sangiovese's discretion or whatever comes to your mind just to give us indication about different zone. Because you need a zone. Right? You need a zone. Right? You need a zone approach. Yes. Honestly, he's as small as do not see on a own for a single property. Yes. We did have our right. If I think about the that is really interesting, if, what I obtained from that Vigna is quite a a more rude Sanjay with a very dirty, but dirty in a good things. A deepness, quite more funky sangervais, more wild sangervais. It's from the montefierali with a very lovely freshness, and, mental taste. Is that, for example, the course that I have from the Concord, and that's in the county that I'm still using for the regular county is more flower and more rich home right through. It's a very, very enjoyable sangiovese and for this reason, I use that county with the that SanJabrio. That's for the regular County. That's my idea to have something very drinkable that you enjoy very well before this easy approach on that San Jabrio. Instead, from Silane, where he's located the amphitheatre to the first Vigna, there is the deepness more deep, more darker for it, very, very serious. So they're very different clothes for different tree type of centuries that I have. Ciana is more like alberez bone soil. Yes. That's the goal. Right. Honestly, of the reason that we've from the map that we had from the university, because you recall, map is a quite a faint spot because the first, quite a faint spot. Quite complicated too. Thanks for translating that because I wouldn't be able to otherwise. This party works. Alright. Quite interesting. And aside from, let's say, geological differences, what else, you know, the peculiarities of these different areas and vineyards that you grow? Italian wine podcast brought to you by mama jumbo shrimp. After this first, we started to learn about the micro elements inside of the soil and how the micro elements move from the roots to the grapes. So every year, we choose four or five vineyards and we study the quantities of every single micro elements and in the soil, in the leaves, in the stems, in the bunches. That's really important because in this way, we can understand how is the condition inside the soil. And then if we have the right quantity of potassium or whatever you want, in the grape. So we can understand it. I can manage every single vineyard, like a single child with the necessary, for example, they will cover fruit whenever you want. After that, we start always in nineteen two study in one vineyard after here, the white flowers and the handsets who live in the vineyard. These are the two elements are really important to know about the biodiversity inside the vineyard and the micro system, a code that we have in every single arena of Montecili. Yeah. So it's almost like you work by layers. So you start with the geological by starting the soil, the altitude, let's say, the position of the vineyard as well, and then you went deeper into star in the nutrients, deficiencies, or, you know, water really, as I said, the nutrients and the substances that you can find in different soils and how they help, divine growth, but also biodiversity. So it's almost like you try to give an index of biodiversity by measuring, you know, how healthy and how varied life inside the vineyard is. And I think that's a very important thing that we are learning nowadays in culture, especially how you cannot consider the vineyard just on Zoom, but you need to understand which are the interactions and the relationships with the natural environment. Obviously, we talk about this. So we have a similar approach also quite a while as well. And that's what really resonates with me. And I'm I'm sure with many of the ambassadors that will listen, many of the listeners that will get on this podcast. So biodiversity being, as I said, an index also of, how healthy a vineer is how resilient, let's say. But it doesn't stop that because by identifying different biodiversity inside the VDR It's almost like saying, you know, the grapes that grow in that vineyard are gonna deliver a different expression once. And I think that as you pointed out, very well, Santroveza, it's a great territorial vector. I think we are very lucky here in Kente classic. Could you be able to work with such a great? It's giving, like, very interesting insights on winemaking in any way. So I think that, you told me something that, I really liked about very specific flower that grows in one of your vineyards. And now that's an indication of a very specific microclimate. Right. Absolutely. We we found it in one vineyard. The wild ukid. If you've never seen this flower, please ask a newborn, And because you will see a very, very great flower is super nice. And, it's super nice, not only because it's nice to see, but hidden because it's a index about the quality of the soil. Consider the white orchid is a quite, very delicate flower. So normally it's quite complicated to see this flower to find this flower in the vineyard because if the soil is too compressed, if you have no enough micro oxygenation, The condition are not good for this flower instead. In Montecili, in the last five years, we found many by the orchids in different vineyards. So it's quite a great result for us. To consider about the purity of the soil. And for example, in another vineyard, with the botanic guy who came to content or recognize the flower, recognizing the vineyard was sixty two different flowers. And two of them are typical of the Mediterranean area. That's right. It was really interesting because, Christian, the guy teach me that probably they condition the microclimate inside of this venue because he's the only one with bush the border, for this reason, it's called Vina net Bosco. Probably the bush make, like, a counter temperature inside of the Vina, and we have sixty two different type of two of them where they are typical of the military. Climate support is unique to think about the I guess being in five hundred and fifty meters with two Mediterranean flowers. So that means, give me a very important information about the the condition, the cooling of the soil. What I say usually is think about us if you eat junkie food for a week. I don't know how do you feel after a week, and it's pretty much the same for the veena because everything starts into the side with the quality of the side micro elements and where we have the handsets, the pollinators, the predators, so everything is connected. And so if we take care of the life of the vineyards, equality. Obviously, we can think about something different in the life of the device and the quality of the grapes at the end. Exactly. Absolutely. I agree. We were saying in during the introduction that, you have a vineyard specific winemaking, that you do. So once you have obviously identified, which are the peculiarities of each linears, the expression that they can bring, to the wine and so on and so forth, you obviously move into the cellar, and, that's where, obviously, the magic happens as well. I'm very curious about one thing that we had discussed already, actually, which is, obviously, your background was, in white winemaking before getting to the classical. We didn't have much experience with red grapes, and I think possibly none with the central visa grape coming from, obviously, Franca Corta as well as, Benavento. Right? So how that type of background working mainly with white grapes as help you bring forward a more precise and, punctual type of wine making. Is there a connection? Is there something that you learn? Yes. I've never made a red wine before coming to Montefi. The SanJuriza is the first one hundred. Let's just order my life. Yes. I just saw a little bit of pinot noir in Santa Kota for this sparkling wine, but you can think and just make it a white there for this blanket, sparkling, nothing else. So, yes, sure, when I, probably, I had a completely open mind to work in this individual, but we were background of white grapes. And what I think now after eight pintages, sure. I use my white making knowledge to approach the red fermentation and red humidification. Why because I consider the white grapes. It's very interesting. It's an it's a challenge because you have to consider the timing when you pick the grapes, the temperature. You have to be very careful, very delicate. You have to be take care of every single step with the oxygenation because, you know, you cannot problem, you know, why, about the oxidation, not with the Juris or after, I've always used a big virus for the Greaco, for example, because Greaco is a force white wine, so it's great grapes. And that experience gave me, this part of my new shoe. I've been inventive for a long time. The base to approach all the fermentation with a very light touch. To not, direct grapes, is able to be very easy to manage in the worry. But what I probably I had in my feelings that what I do in multifamily now is to be very soft even during the manage of the the fermentation of the rat. And, to not manage too much the graves to try to protect the expression of that vineyard and the the season through. So you would call yourselves a low interventionist. Less is better. Less is better. True. Yes. That's true. I'm quite boring. Yes. I know I'm quite in all the winemaker style, I think, in the winery, I do a very, very easy job. And think about every single vineyard that I manage in the winery. It may a huge job during the season, but then when I pick the grapes, I approach every single vineyard in the same way. It sounds bad, but it's very easy to to understand. I have a single recipe for all the vineyards for the parcel. So what I want to obtain is to the results of the SanJOViza connected with different type of soil and the season here. In the winery, what I changed is only at the end, the barre size. So during the fermentation, if you come to Montefinity, you will see the same approach for, in every single tanks, spontaneous fermentation, very soft approach, and never change. I I have about the temperature because, you know, if you change the temperature or you change the contact skin, obviously, you could have very interesting results and don't say it's bad. No, please. But what I want to tell you is the story of small place where I try to make it very easy, approaching the winery to express the unique size that I have in the the part of the property. At the moment, and, at Monte City, you make how many labels seven Right now, we have two counties, the county, the grandson, and four number of bottles. So six seven rings. Okay. Of which, possibly, the most famous are donor, the rock, amphitheater. Right? Right. Absolutely. These two wines are the flags of the property for a long long time. Montefield was created in nineteen seventy nine. So I'm Fitti Artu and Bruno tell the story of Montefield. Right? Because I'm Fitti Artu who said he's an old vineyard of San Duvezi. Yes. And fitietro is the first sangiovese planted in nineteen seventy five. I see. Why bruno Diroka, which I think most people might know about when they think of, multifides and most of the people would be thinking of Bruno Diroka. Yes. Buro Diroka. Spade is the only Cabernet that I have. Luckily, I have only one point five actors on Cabernet, so Vigna. I'm more connected with the San Jewel. I have to be honest, but I really scrolled the Cabernet in Monteville. At the cabernet in the high altitude with the poor soil reach of a a rocket. It's quite interesting because the cabernet in Montecili has a very different different taste and flavor that normally we think about. Recovered in it. Lizina was planted instead in eighty two. So it's a very small part considered. Now I make Bruno is a blend with a fifteen percent of sangiovese from the regular County, from the youngest sangiovese that we are And, yes, absolutely. Bruno was very well known for this unique taste, quite unusual thinking about the cover name. Absolutely. As you know, we also do a cover on had blend with Santa Fezet, Cortibelos, Camatina. And we really have to, you know, to do some testing side by side, because I think that what you said about the Cabernet sauvignon, and the type of maturation that he gets in county is super interested mostly because of the soil, especially if it grows on a quite a rocky well draining type of soil. But for me, it's the microclimate. It's the sun. It's the, you know, it's the light exposure during the day. That's really intensify the maturation of the grapes, but without, let's say, losing on the acidity, which, again, it's, is an asset that we have here, you know, I'll still videos in candy classical, let's say. And freshness, I think, is something that very much resonates with your one making style. Because when I every time I tasted you, I taste your wines, let's say, the thing that, obviously strikes me the most is the freshness, is this, vibrancy that we can find in your central visa. And I see it comes, of course, from your type of, winemaking. It's been very true too, very true to the sangroveza grape variety as well, because it's obviously is naturally, is naturally bringing a lot of acidity, to its wine. But as well as the tour. So we always go back obviously to to what we're discussing at the beginning, about the vineyards and different stores. Is that something that you recognize, like, being your biggest asset? It has been moved to warmer or more erantic type of, green tejuice. Honestly, even if we are having warmer sun seasons, especially sun, about leaving the spring, because I think about this February that we had know which the temperature. So, year after year, we see these huge changes. Motifili still live in quite a happy condition because we are very lucky with the fresh nights that we have. So Normally, we picked grapes ten days later to the lower part of the empty classic when we still see the differences with the other condition. I'm sure the rocky soil with the whole Venus too, permit us to maintain and to not have any huge stress condition. Even last year or two years ago, last year, we we pick all our grapes. It was a very test the results after a very complicated season, but even in the two thousand and ninety twenty two, we didn't have any problem with the dry, with the no water. So, yes, I mean, That's the challenge of the future, but what I think I think about in the beginning when I came it years ago. And now, finally, in the last three years, I see the results about the the job, the focus on the vineyard, inside of the vineyard. So when you have the the numbers, the results, the study, when you make scientific results, when you make scientific studies like us, and you have the infos, you're able to manage every single vineyard, like a single life and thinking about how to support and improve the quality inside of the Venus. So that's really important for me and what I think that's really important for all of us for the future is a sustainable approach totally thinking about the wines, but even if I'm thinking about our private lives, to a unique way to work, to be able to know much better what is under our feet and our the story, the place where we are, that's really important. When I want to feel every day, I'm always very in love with the place because it's so nice and beautiful. I know that I have a great responsibility to protect and to improve the life place. Absolutely. I think that winemaking is a lot about that as well. It's not only about expressing a given terroir. It's also elevating. Right. You know, the origin of the grapes is giving, like, a territory just one more reason why to be better, to be honest with you. Yeah. That's value. That's what I'm trying to say. I think that winemakers are really good at adding value. I think something that could be said about other agricultural professions, but I think it very much, you know, shows, when it comes to winemaking. You really have the responsibility and, you know, the pleasure actually, you know, elevating It's a lot. Perfect, right, and then perfect, meaning is elevated absolutely because it's, quite a honor to have the possibility to do this. It's not it's a it's a talented responsibility, but it's, yes, in one making process, you can make the best after enough work to express to tell you the story and then you, yes. We can make like a blossom that's you can do in the winery. So it's a mix of condition. Obviously, the the winner, then you have to be able to put yourself inside in the winery and feel part of the the old project and all details of you to send you something uniquely after here. So talking about the war, I think this could be our last question before we leave it open to other people's questions. So you trained in Francacorta. So you did, sparkling wines, then you moved to the South of Italy to Benavente, and you did the whites, then, obviously, here in county classical, you work San Jose and the other rights. If you could choose, if you could pick, like, one terrier or one grave that you would love to work with in the future, what would that be? So every time, when I speak with my husband, I say, when I will be old, I wanna be in free wooly already. I knew that. And when I met you, that was okay. That's a message for me. You are from free wooly. So, you know, this, it's not a joke. That's true. I followed up with Freolia because when I finished working in Atlanta, I took a trip for five days for myself, like, it passed a trick to say bye, South for the new with the new life in Tuscany. And I was really surprised because I traveled. I came and freely, obviously, on the border. And that area for me, it's quite interesting. Obviously, I came back to the white grapes. Probably, yes. I started with a white, and I will tie with a white. Grips probably frugally or sisley. I'm really impressed with the soil. I went to the internal parts, and then, obviously, Netna. And I considered these are very interesting. And if I'm really, I'm in law with Campania, there are so many unknown areas, Italian, when making areas. So that's good when we spoke about the market. And we understand because, you know, Calabrio, it's very well known. There are so many well known area. But Italy is so rich, traditional grapes to go to Sri Lanka. If you go in the smaller places of, a volcano, so it's on the, you know, the European area. The white grapes, sir, for me, are always very, very interesting. And who knows about the future? Of course, we're gonna make plans because, three woman needs, young, talented winemakers. I also know a couple of people there. Something that you said about Canti Classic, I think. It's something that we both found when we actually moved here. And correct me if I'm wrong, you know, working in such a world famous you know, population, give us a lot of leverage. You know, every time we travel every time we have to present the wine, you know, talking about candy classical, it's very easy for people to relate to. They understand they can put it on the map. They can probably they've visited or they've been spending their holidays in Avila here in Kante. But on the other end, I always feel that there is so much competition in terms of quality winemaking, especially in the latest two years. You know, almost everyone in county classical make really good wines. Majority of people work with San Jose. So, you know, as I said, it's, on one end, it's kind of easier if you like in the wine world. To be working within such, a famous escalation on the other end. I think there is so much tradition, so much competition. It's not easy. That's what I'm trying to say. It's not easy. You really actually green because when it came, if you're a single, I was a woman from the north of Italy, moving from the south, never made their advice. I worked with Sandeza, and in a very historical winery. In this such a great, area like we can class. So I felt totally the responsibility to be a challenge, absolutely, and the opportunity too because I was honored to think to see myself in this place, in these vineyards, but I felt totally the responsibility to be able to tell a story with our approach, with our philosophy, that was great because Kent Glasgow is so rich of great place different, approach, and different philosophy. And it's so very well known. So when you are very well known, you have a developer responsibility to protect the story of the place and to maintain the quality and make a and it takes up too. So there are so many different elements to consider that I consider when I came and I work, and I start to work and want to feed it. So we spoke about, obviously, sustainability and how we practice a sort of integrated with the culture. There is a question actually about that from John. It was writing us, on here on the chart. Are there any new projects that you might like to introduce in the vineyard? That have to deal with, you know, sustainable agriculture? I don't. Thank you for the question. We are still speaking and thinking about to improving, some, system side divina, for example, to, sustain, the the flowering, the white flowering, because for example, in some vineyard, we noticed that we are missing some flowers. So, for example, it depends when you cut cover crop, especially in spring season. So, right now, honestly think about big projects with something great, great. Sorry for the not perfect word, and that we made in the last eight years. No. But now we are focusing in peculiar part on every single venue that's what we have to make to improve the single condition of the venue. I don't know if I answer rightly your question. I think you did. Oh, There's a great question for Yvonne. Hello? Thank you. I know. I'm not I I think she's she's asking you, but she could have asked me if it's a recent question. So if we both eventually, my I might go ask. If this might go back, it's me. Which grapes she would like to work and in which area of friuli. So if it is me, it's, of course, cupertino in I always say the name. Okay. I love Scupetino, and it's the great that, I am the most attached to. That's my favorite grape. First vintage of Scupetino was actually my birth year. And I know I've really great producer there that, is one of my favorite, let's say. But what about you today now? Okay. We've all and I even be great. It's quite interesting. Oh, wow. Please don't share this with the people of course. Thank you. I'm working on that right now, writing a message as you re speak. I know. I know you are. So I do have one question for you. Actually, for both of you, I'm looking at your website, and I think it's very comprehensive. I like it. It's very useful. It's very smooth. And then you have this section about points and awards, which is interesting. You've organized in a very functional way. And I was wondering how important are the points and scores and Awards today. Be honest. I won't tell any of the other people. Hello? Is anybody there? I'm trying to think about a diplomatic answer So it depends. It's very Okay. Alright. That's not an ice. I'm sorry. I think that they still bear some importance on the trade, especially. On consumer side, I think there are different dynamics that are keeping in. They are stimulating people buying the wines or developing, let's say, sort of relationship with the brand. But to be honest with you, there are still some reviewers, the famous one that can move volumes, especially in the US, but also in the UK, Italy not so much anymore, maybe. As I said, there are different dynamic stuff kicking, you know, like social media, of course, digital media, devices that you participate the events that you organize, why not use it's hospitality against, it's a little bit of everything. What about you setting up? Think about Montefiti, and we start to make everything. And so when we restart, I restart to make I made my my job. So the pleasure to make my job, never think about the points. And but, obviously, I was really surprised to feel myself like no one in the middle of the Canti classico, and to We see very good points from the most important American journalist, and I was really impressed because I never thought about this because I am a technical. So I do my job, and that's it. And, that was impressed me so much because, I never thought about the consequence that obviously means, to be an open one. For example, the points of people send us an email because they write a a review on my website, very interesting about the feeling. So, yes, it depends. We approach this. That's for me to keep. I'm not stressed about the idea to have always every year, eye points, and because every year is different and not all the points are the same. But I work focused to make good job, good wines, and obviously people not told that many people are still very interesting, especially as a immediacy in the United States market. To read something interesting and new good news release, bad wines, and so on. So, yes, this point is always a big argument. Trust with the something very important for the market again. We can say, I don't care. That's stupid, honestly. I don't say, and I don't care because it's you. Of course. You got a number of wine, of course, you care. No. There isn't a funny story because I received the email. The first of April from April one in twenty twenty three. And then when I received the email, I thought that is a joke. Yeah. And when I receive the email, I say, it's not possible. I can't believe. And I remember I I called Nick and I say, Nicole, did you receive the same email? Mhmm. Yes. We already knocked her a wine. Oh my goodness. Because I never thought that it is a very short time in APS. We were able to obtain a grateful like this that we're having. So I I really honored and I recognize that make me happy, absolutely, so I can't say I don't care. It's stupid. But when I make my job, I make my job for the pleasure to be in the field, be in winery. Then, obviously, when I see these other results, I'm more happy. Yeah. Well, someone's get us to sell the wines. Right? Even if you meet the greatest wines and no one knows about it. Right. Can you please listen. Okay. So having said that, thank you very much to do both of you, very informative, and I love the energy. Of these two women in the wine industry from County. By the way, speaking of social media, you'll link to your Instagram and Facebook on homepage. Does they do not work, so you might want them to look into that, but that's just me. I get obsessed about social media as everybody knows. So thanks again, and hope to see you both very soon that I'm signing off because I have other shit to do here. Thank you very much, you guys. Until the day after tomorrow then. Yep. Listen to the Italian wine podcast wherever you get your podcasts. We're on SoundCloud, Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Himalaya, Fm, and more. Don't forget to subscribe and rate the show. If you enjoy listening, please consider donate dating through Italian wine podcast dot com. Any amount helps cover equipment, production, and publication costs. Until next time.
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