Ep.714 Artem Lebedev Interviews Silvia Altare | Clubhouse Ambassador's Corner

Welcome to this special Italian wine podcast broadcast. This episode is a recording off Clubhouse, the popular drop in audio chat. This clubhouse session was taken from the wine business club and Italian wine club. Listen in as wine lovers and experts alike engage in some great conversation on a range of topics in wine. If you enjoy listening, please consider donating through Italian wine podcast dot com. Any amount helps cover equipment, production, and publication costs. And remember to subscribe and rate our show wherever you tune in. This episode is proudly sponsored by Vivino, the world's largest online wine marketplace. The Vivino app makes it easy to choose wine. Enjoy expert team support door to door delivery and honest wine reviews to help you choose the perfect wine for every occasion. Vivino, download the app on Apple or Android and discover an easier way to choose wine. Good evening to everyone. This is Club House Ambassador's Corner, and this is Joy livingston, not Stevie Kim. Stevie is in Tuscany. But I think I've heard she's she's gonna be listening in. I'm I'm taking over once again because her internet is a little spotty, so that would have that would have been, kinda weird if she suddenly cut out halfway through. So I'm doing this tonight with Aleika, the club house manager who I don't know if you're there, Leika, but, good evening to everyone. Tonight is the eighteenth edition, I believe, of the club house Ambassador's Corner. And tonight, we have Artem Levative, who is going to be talking to Sylvia Altare. So from the the onenery, Elio Altare. Hi there, Leica. How are you doing? Oh, enjoy. How are you? I'm good. Okay. So we are very excited for today's club house. So Okay. I'm gonna keep keep talking. I'm gonna keep talking. Okay. I haven't even had any wine. I'm like already, you know. So, as always, this is a, a show we do it on Clubhouse, and then it's recorded. And later on, we release it on the Italian wine podcast, and we do this because not everybody is able to tune in when we when we do these shows live. They are usually every Thursday. Usually, this is a special one every Thursday at eight pm, CET, Central European time, and, yeah, definitely recommend it. It's awesome. We love it. It's actually really popular on the Italian podcast. So I'm hoping there's no snafus tonight. Technologically speaking because we're gonna put this up. Let's see. What else can I say? I think that, I'm not going to, talk about, Sylvia because I'm gonna let lebative to go ahead and introduce her. Yes. Definitely. But now we have our team here, in the show. So could you introduce Artem for us? Yes. I can. I realized I just addressed you by your last name. I do apologize. I just like saying it, so. Alright, Artem. Thirty years old, a wine professional who has been working in the wine industry for almost a decade. Born in Saint Petersburg, and he'll be working in Europe for two years before settling down in Almaty, Kazakhstan. That's really cool. Artem is an ASI certified Sommelier, and a w set to plasma holder, a Sherry Ambassador, Avia Italian Ambassador wine Ambassador, the president of the Kazakhstan Salmele Association CEO of the annual contest of the Vasomelier of Kazakhstan. Yeah. And co owner and main lecturer at the Somelier School in Almaty, and the co owner of the wine hub import project. So, Artem, how are you? Are you there? Good evening, Joy. Good evening to everybody. And thank you for, introduction of, of me. It was it was very good. And by the way, and I like the way you pronounce my surname. It's, absolutely. So cool. Hundred percent correct. So so thank thank you for introduction. You're welcome, and that was a pleasure. I I have a few questions before you go ahead with your interview. Can you tell us why you selected Sylvia Altaire as your favorite producer? Yeah. Yeah. Of course. So, I work with Avayan more or less, eight years, and I visit, of course, I visit a lot of, wineries, like those in wineries, hundreds of wineries. And, for this eight years, one of the most memorable visit ever was visit to Elo Altaire winery where I meet Sylvia. So I think before, I have, never seen such a such, perfect example of the, of the person who are, who are, like, like, a firework. Like, a genius inside inside the inside the region. So I was very, very excited to to meet her and, and when I have an opportunity to choose somebody, I, first of all, I thought about, about her, Oh, okay. Okay. And, tell us, what are the learning objectives? Because TV is all about the learning objectives that we should expect from the interview? For me, personally, the Barolla region where, Sylvia works is, like, one of the best regions in the whole world, in the whole wine world. And, for me, it's always interesting to know not only about the history or about the regulations or something else, but also about the presence, about the modern time. So I would like to ask everything about what is Barolla today. Awesome. Okay. And last question, how did you discover the wines of Elio Altare? Like, how would you first discover them first taste it? And Yeah. It's it's it's actually also very interesting and exciting story. I was, like, a young vine specialist in the beginning of my way, and, I with my ex wife at that moment, were organized vine tours, vine trips to the different top vine regions of the world. And we have, already visited in Pordeaux, and Rioja, and, Champagne and other regions. And, one day we decided to visit Piamont. And, of course, I decided to learn something about the region, to read about it, to go deep, to jump in the theory, And, one day, I discover the video of Barolla Boys, the movie. And I start watching it and realize the story about the traditionalists and the modernists of the, of the landscape area of Barolla. And, of course, after watching this movie, I fell in love with a story, and I, I was, like, all my dreams was to visit Elo Altairie, to understand what is it, Barolla? Now it was, like, I think five years ago, and I write down the message to, to alert Alta. Email to the winery. And I think, Sylvia, answered immediately, like, in one in the same day, and, told me, like, yeah, you are very welcome with your group. Please come. And, when we come and when I heard the the story from Sylvia and when I see her and when I tried the vines, I fell in love with it, especially with the Arborena vineyard. When I came back home after the visit, I read everything about Arborena. And, in my opinion, it's, like, one of the most you know, one of the best, vineyards in the whole barolo region. So this is the story. Oh, cool. No. Actually, you said something, Barolo, boys. I've never seen that. I have to go and and check that out now. Yeah. It it's amazing. Oh, cool. I no. I will. I I believe you. I'm gonna check it out. But, My advice to everybody who think that they are, like, love Barolla and Barrola Vines and Nibiola and etcetera. Okay. Okay. Well, I am going to, now just say a quick hello to Sylvia before we hand hand this over to you guys, Sylvia. Are you there? I'm here. Ciao, everybody. Hi. Okay, Artem, thank you so much. Go ahead, and I'm going to mute myself now. And, yeah, we'll talk to you after. If there's a little bit of time for questions, then we'll do that. Otherwise, we'll just, we'll accept questions via email and and do it that way. But, this will end within, one hour period. And, so take it away. I'm eating up your time. Yeah. Thank you, Joy. And now, I think it's a time for me to to introduce, represent, Sylvia. So Sylvia Aldare grew up in a family made famous by her father, Elio, who in the mid, nineteen seventies was on one of the Barolla boys, so what I which I speak about, who dare to make Vine more like the French burgundians than the local, PMontes of this time. Hello, and Luca's to children, Sylvia, and Elena, or whether were never pressured to involve themselves with winemaking. And in the early 1980s, that was a future result for the boys. Growing up, Sylia participated in various aspects of wine growing and wine making with her family, but, often felt that she had to prove herself as a girl and starting in, nineteen ninety four when she was fifteen years old, her parents sent her to leave with a family in California for the summer. She attended the University of Economy, interim and studied international business, graduating in two thousand three. Her travels and work, harvests in California, burgundy, and Australia led her to join the family estate after her graduation. So Caraboski is the first woman, Vine maker, woman, winemaker in Barola, and one of these Barola boys is Sylvia's superhero. And, I think, Sylvia will explain a little bit about it later. So finally, she purchased the binary from her parents and sister in two thousand sixteen, but is continuing the family run structure and traditional approach to Viticulture and winemaking. So the vineyards of, Elo Altare in Sylvia's hands are cultivated without the use of chemicals and pesticides and their vines are natural, simple and natural. She and her parents and, the small staff manage the vineyards, the seller, the sales and the marketing, and her father, Elio, still energetic and creative, enjoys mesmerizing visitors with the accomplishment of the Barola boys. So in total, there are ten hectares a state produced about seventy thousand bottles of which eighty percent is, exported. So this is more or less, introduction to to the winery and to Sylvia. Sylvia, I hope that it it was okay, and, please join us. So great introduction. And now I feel like, everyone one must have great expectations because you use the such high words for me and my family. I'm really excited to join this. It's my first time in Clubhouse, and I'm a little nervous. I'm gonna press the wrong button. So I'll try to not shake my hands too much. Put it that way. We're ready to roll with a a lot of questions. I'm super curious with what you'll have to ask. Yeah. I I I think you you have not to be nervous because you are, like, personality from the big big p. So my first question, is that I, you know, in one of your interviews, which I can found in the internet, you said that your father made a revolution but you now are doing the evolution in inside the region, inside your binary. So could you please tell what this evolution, what what this evolution is? And, is it easy for you to be, like, you know, like a post modernist in Barolla? Because your father was modernist. So how can you explain yourself? So very good question. And to be able to answer this question, it took me some time. I've been at the winery now about twenty years. And, I mean, my father as many of the fathers of my of my friends, my generation have been those among those guys that created what inspired the new generation to make what we do today. So they really honestly contributed to the renaissance of the region. So they are dressed as the revolutionaries. Is my generation do we need to do any revolution? I don't think so. That's why I came up with that quote and I say that we are just the evolution. So it means I don't think we have to do anything crazy for sure. We have to keep the quality and be consistent every year, but there's always a margin of, like, change and improvement. I mean, we don't stay still. We don't say that nothing will change and nothing is not is gonna change because then, otherwise, we would just be not moving ever. But there's no need to change. Sorry. Something that works. And right now, what those guys created some years ago, which was completely innovative back then, today is not so innovative anymore, There's always something that you can play with. There's always, you know, new technologies, new equipments, new things you can focus on, but the main ideas don't change. That's what I mean by evolution. You stick to the main ideas of, you know, good. Good farming, good grapes, clean cellar, a short maceration in my case, clean wines, wines that are drinkable while while younger, but also age of also wines that can age. But there's always a margin of improvement I've recently read an, sorry. Not an email. An interview from Alberto Villain from a DRC that is, leaving his, position to to the new generation. And that's interesting because he said something that, he said it with nicer words that, when you think you have arrived, that you've done the best, that you're the best, that's when things start going bad. We don't think we're the best. The revolution, it's something that always has to happen, but doesn't have to be drastic. So that's why my generation is just the evolution generation. I would like to describe our style today as traditionally modern if you allow me to play with words because I'm still doing many of the things that I've learned from my dad, but I've I've added my my own things. So that's why to be post modernist, it's it's it sounds crazy, but only forty years have gone, but, things are changing. I'm open to try new things all the time. Yeah. That that's that's great. But, you know, I am, I also read that you have some connection with, Lafarge family from, Vol Nam. I think And they are, like, I I like these wines and I like their their burgundy style. So do you feel, the connection with burgundy today? So do you do you, like your father? Do you learn something from burgundy to replace, to to to take it to the barolo region to to use in, in production of your vines? Well, technically, like, you mean, like, in practical, like, winemaking, I would say no. But I've tasting I've been tasting and I taste and I traveled to Burgundy often, and I still drink a lot of, I mean, during the pandemic, who didn't start drinking even more. So I've concentrated on Burgundy, even more. And you what I do get is I get inspired. I get inspired, and then you do a little research, and then maybe next time I'm in Burgundy, I'll visit that winemaker. The things I'm looking at, what like to try new things is more when it gets to equipment, machineries. But we always don't have to we always don't forget that they have a different variety. They have a they have pinot noir. We have a nebulo. So different varieties. So we we can't just do copy paste. We just get generically inspired. And I get inspired, like, just like I just mentioned, reading an article from a man, like, well, the villain, which is so I suggest to find this article. Am I I'll send you the link a beautiful article about the new generation. So you always find a little piece of inspiration here and there. And Lafarge were one of the first families I visited with my dad when I was younger, and they really take a big spot in my heart. I love their wines and the family. Yes. Yeah. That sounds great. And, you know, for me now, the, LaFarch, the wines of LaFarch, and the wines of, domain de villain, not like the CRC, but domain de villain is, one of my favorite wines, which I try to drink, as much as possible. But, okay. Today we speak about the barola. So let's go back to barolo topic. Could you please tell about the, changes in the region in the longer area? What was, not in childhood, and what you can find now and vice versa? So if we if we even don't speak about the vine, just the changes in the region? Well, it's undeniable that we were sitting on a treasure and we we were not aware of it, and now we all know very well. So If you ever come to Piamonte to Barolla these days, you see beautiful, perfectly manicured vineyards that maybe looks like a little bit abandoned in the past, beautiful homes, nice hotels, fancy restaurants that even when I was younger, and I'm not so old, just so you know, we didn't have. So the region is extremely popular. So the popularity that Broos achieved, it's worldwide. So very few wineries back, in the forties, in the fifties, in the sixties, were exporting, and Barolo was obviously not a popular wine, was probably famous among Italians that were drink it on a special occasion, a Christmas or Easter, but but all of these days is famous all over the world. So what do we get today? We get visitors from all over the world. And the region is ready to host all these people. So there's a lot of things that you can do. Sometimes we we're getting to an extreme these days. Like, when I was a kid, you you didn't see electric bikes or balloons. You could now you can ride a balloon over the vineyard. So It's getting a little too touristy maybe some days, I think. But the the let's be let's speak frankly, the money that has come to the region through through Barolo, through the tourism, through the restaurants, It's has been reinvested in the region itself. The farmers, the locals have reinvested in the region. So if you come here now, it's just beautiful. It looks like and you people that don't know the the history or the story, they might think it was always like this, but it wasn't. Maybe I'm the generation that hasn't seen the poor days, the poor times, but my dad tells me stories that right after the second World War, the region was extremely poor. Everyone was flooding the area to are working in the factories, like in Torino and Fiat or in the chocolate factory, the Nutella, the Ferrero. So nobody wanted to be a farmer. Things have changed today. So what you see today, you you have a richness, not just of things that you can touch hotels and restaurants and wineries, but, richness in the people. People feels we're proud of what we do, we're proud of what we have. We're proud of saying we're farmers, we're winemakers, Forty years ago only. If you were a farmer, you could not even find a wife just to give you an idea. Yep. That's the story. That's the story. Yeah. That that's very curious. Okay. Thank you for for this answer. Now now it's more or less clear. So, my second question is that, you I know that you travel a lot before taking control of the binary. And we have already, spoke about the, burgundy, but, which country, except that burgundy has left the most imprint of you in terms of you know, in terms of wine culture, in terms of, how things done in, in the binaries in, in the world. So the other two regions where I focused, were the opposite of the old world. So I worked in California and, Australia. In Australia, I worked in the mornington Peninsula, but where my heart is is in California. I worked in a winery. I wanna say today, quite famous. It's called It's in Ohio, and the owners, Mansford and Elaine Crankle are my second family, and they started the winery from scratch. And I'm saying this is this is now ninety four. The first time I visited them and I worked with them. So Weimakers that decided I mean, wine lovers that decided to throw themselves into a wine project, and now this winery is one of the most famous California wineries or world famous wineries. And, that has taught me that, with, with your with your will, with your ideas. If you with perseverance, you can achieve your dreams. So it's not just about, being lucky because you need a dose of of luck in life, but you also need to work hard. If you don't work hard and you just expect the luck to to hit you and help you, you won't go far. So what I've learned from working in California, it was not just about I mean, different varieties, of course, different climate, but it's more the the the personal, help that, the the personal thing that touched me, which was working with Syniquan on. Yeah. Yes. I I I didn't know about it. So the work with a manfred, I think it's, unbelievably good for the winemaker. And, by the way, next week, here in Almaty, we have a vertical tasting of, Synquinone, and, I'm waiting for it, like, for a miracle. You know, we have advantages, I think, from two thousand twelve to, to, to eighteen. I don't remember now, but I I'm waiting for it. So You are the happy person, actually. So and the I mean, you you'll be amazed. It's amazing wine, amazing people. It's a whole trip when you taste those wines. Yes. And I I I realized that you you receive a lot of philosophy from this place. But do you implement some, vineyard on binary techniques from California to, to, to Barolla area? It's hard to compare because the climate and the vineyards are so different seller wise, I can do tell you that, manfred, if you ever get to know the man or visit the winery, is the most organized man. I've I've learned about organization, but not so much let's be honest about techniques of winemaking is the varieties are too too different. But the precision, the consistency organization, manfred played a big role in my brain. Because my dad is the opposite. My dad is a a really Italian man, slightly disorganized, a little bit messy and confused. So I brought some organization here. Yeah. That that that's nice. I think that's Russian speaking, countries, Russian speaking community is very close to Italians. Slightly, like, you know, like, let's do the things tomorrow, not today. I think it's, we have something in common. But, okay. We speak about the vine, but, of course, Pemont is not only the vine. Pemont is also the food. And in, your different interview, I am I read that you are very fond of a homemade pasta. So could you please tell more about it? And, of course, please don't forget about the vine component about, vine pairing. So I'm definitely a carbo girl. I could not live without carbo y drapes for sure. And, when you come to Pemonte, forget your diet, or if you're vegetarian, your struggle, if you're vegan, very hard. So we're in the place of, cheese, meat, and pasta. So, I grew up in a family where food is a priority. Your mom might ask you. My mom would ask us, like, the night before, what do you wanna eat for lunch tomorrow? So all about food and my mom ever Sunday still today makes handmade pasta, which could be gnocchi, like last Sunday, she made gnocchi, so the potato dumplings. She might make the tairin, which is the local pasta noodle egg noodles, the raviolis, or the field, pasta, Most of the pastas here are made with, with eggs. They're not semolina, so they're not dry pasta. But not just that they they taste good itself, but we accompany this pasta's always with big rich sauces like ragu or with cheese and of course now it's truffle season. So imagine just a simple plate of egg noodle tairin with some butter and a shaver truffle on top, and a glass of barolo. You're in heaven. You don't need anything else. And so the pastas are very versatile, but, as Italians, when you think of wine, you think of food and vice versa. So when my mom cooks, she thinks of wine. Or when I bring wine on the table, she will do the pairing. So and the wines we have, Barbara has acidity, so calls for food or a sauce that has a little bit more fat. Nebiola's tannins. So calls for food that has a little bit of, you know, more power, more structure, so like, like, woo, or something richer. So we definitely have varieties that match well with our local food, not just local food, but, definitely with the pasta that I love. Yeah. I cannot give up carbohydrates. I'm sorry. That that that's great answer. First of all, I I think I will rename, you in my, in my phone, like a Carbo girl. It's it sounds fantastic. And, and your answer, make me hungry, and because I am very big fan of Tyrine and, of course, of Barolla. But, again, you, you mentioned about the truffle So, of course, Longi is famous for, for its travels. And absolutely everyone knows about it. But, are there any underestimated products that, should, that we should find out and then, we should know about. For, for example, for me, when I visited the Barolla for the second or the third time, I, I I find the the rubio de rocavirana cheese, And, it was absolutely fantastic. And now I'm trying to import it to Kazakhstan, and I, realized that, there are no very big producers of Rabiullah. So it's very difficult to find the, people with the certificates who can, who can export it to to different countries. So are there any other products, food products, which, we have to know, but which are not famous yet. Not famous yet, but for sure cheese, as you say, we're big cheese eaters here. Pemonte used to be part of France. So definitely cheese. Good point. I'm a big fan of the, the we don't need beefier, but we usually eat veal, which to some people sounds scary, maybe that we baby cows, but our meat is very lean. So we eat a lot of raw meat, so it's like a a tartar. Which we just season with, oil salt and pepper and maybe lemon, but it's a great meat because most of the farmers, here still grow, raise their cows organically. So great veal, great He's nuts. We are the capital of nuts. The here is where Nutella was created. So, and crazy enough too, Torino, the capital of our region, is the where the the most number of chocolate factories and chocolate laboratories are. So Torino historically, probably because of the nuts is the capital of chocolato. So the chocolate from Pemonte is quite famous too. So I mean, a lot of good things. No no diets. We we don't talk about dieting here ever. No. No. No. That's amazing. But, you know, if you If you speak about the Nutiola, so I I I have one more question about food then, maybe it's a little bit humorous, but, as as you said, Natalia is a traditional specialty of the region. So is there any wine or other drink in Lancia that in your opinion is, capable of making a worthy nice pair for Nutella? I understand that, you know, the chocolate or nuts are sometimes, like, unpaired with the vine at all, but maybe you you can give us some advices from your experience. So we we become a I'm a tele expert, by the way. Ferrero should call me to be an ambassador because I eat I eat so much of it. But I definitely think there's a pairing. It's Barolo kinato, and I'm sure you've been here many times and you've had it. Barolo kinato is, basically an old barolo that has been infused with herbs, like, quinone, cinnamon, lemon zest, every winery, every family has their secret recipe, and they add a little bit of sugar. So it's not really a bitter. It's something between a bitter and the digestif, but that pairs well with chocolates and any chocolates and nutella as well. So I'm a big drinker in quinato, and there's some amazing quinatos out here. I'm a fan of that's my favorite Barrolocinato, by the way. Yeah. Barrolocinato is, beautiful, beautiful beverage, and it's, it's slowly, for for instance, in for instance, in Kazakhstan, it slowly become more and more popular, but, still, it's it's not very famous. But, if we're going back to to the vine, to the vine making, I have, one more question to you. You do not make, a single white wine, no white wines in your, portfolio. But, of course, I, I think I believe that you drink some, especially I think maybe white burgundy. So my question is, what is the most welcome white wine on your table? Is it from Vermont and Langia? Or is it outside, or maybe you don't drink it. And, have you ever thought of starting produce, white wine, for yourself? And, if so, which one? And also, if you, if you spoke about the Barrola Kinata, maybe you have a dream to produce some Barola canata to to support the tradition. Oh, that's a lot of good questions, but, I don't have any vineyards that could be good for a to to plant, and I don't have any vineyards that are already planted with whites. But my dad, already answered the necessity of drinking a white wine. About twenty years ago, my dad started making wine in cinque terre in liguria. But three hours south from here right on the coast where the five little villages are right above Tuscana. So my dad makes, some, crazy indigenous, grow some crazy indigenous grapes in Rio Major. So he makes a little bit of, white wind there. But if I have to say or we love it to drink it on. Definitely, as you've said, shout on it from burgundy, and I have a number region number two that I love. I'm a huge fan of Wachau. I love Austria. Could be riesling, could be Gruna with cleaner, and you can drink some old wines and they're still stunning. I mean, you have riesling or Groa that are twenty, thirty years old, and they're still acidic and fresh. I wish one day if I was ever wanna make a white, I would like to make a white one with such, eligibility. So it's just amazing. And they pair really well with our food because our food is so fat and the acidity just cuts through your palate. But, I don't wanna think of any new projects because we have so many going on in my winery, so no barolo kinato, but my dad makes the cinque terre. Yes. And then a few years ago, pushed by the necessity of, drinking champagne he started making some, locals, pumante, like, in the Altalanga, in the higher heels. He planted some, again, indigenous white varieties, and, he's making just for the family now, some, the first vintage was pretty bad. Second vintage decent. Now, on the third vintage, it's better. So, yeah, that's, we we have always something going on. We're not worried of, running out of projects here. That sounds absolutely fantastic, you know, because, when I graduate from my WCT diploma in, in, in Austria, I have, I have the bottle of the man Vajau of old vintage from Aklaitan vineyard, and, I, I think Aklaitan vineyard. And it, it was signed by Roman Horvat. And I, I have this wine to open with somebody, I think, in ten years, or maybe in fifteen years because for me, the best white wine, one of the best white wines in in the world is, Vaha, of course. So it's it's curious. I I have to plan my trip to Barolla and take, this bottle to maybe to drink together. Oh, and I wish you all go to Lachau and celebrate. I have a lot of winemakers friends. It's a beautiful region. Yeah. Yeah. That's great. So, let's, go back to some more technical questions because I think the so many years and other people who, will listen us. They am interested in, my you know, my one of the main main questions to you is about the, today's situation in the barola zone. So what do you think about this division of the barola zone into sub zones and, MGAs, will we, will we ever see official premier and grand cru vineyards in, like, soon or never? Like the zones of Burwindy, And, what do you think about, about the consort or how it works, how is the situation in the region today? What will you, you know, would like to change? Or everything is excellent? So could you please speak a little bit about it. Oh, that's a very you're asking me some political questions. Do we have the president of the consorts you're listening? I have to be careful what I say. But, Definitely, it's we don't have we were not smart, sorry, like the French, three hundred years ago to make their to do the proper classification, premier cru, grand cru. And honestly, being Italians and being crazy. I don't think that will ever happen. I mean, we all know within each other that a vineyard like Canopy is a grand cru. And for example, we have a family vineyard, Arborena. I have to be honest. I have to admit that's a plenty of crew. It's not an historic vineyard. So but to put that on paper and have everyone agree, good luck, Artem, not even a thousand years. I don't think that will happen. So I think we'll just stick to the the districts and everybody will just have to be honest and tell the customers and the, you know, and the so many is out there with how they feel about the vineyards without trying to lie. That's that's what I'm thinking. But, the consurgis helping is up in the winemakers. One thing I'm I'm I'm hoping it won't happen to expand the region because there's, there's some pressure of, of for pushing to open the borders and make more wine. Because, but all in spite of the popularity is a quite small area. So only and take this only is, a relative number. Fourteen million bottles were were made in the past few years. And that's a small number. That's the number of, like, wineries like Moes and Don might do in, I don't know, they battle that that in two weeks. I I can't even picture it. So it's small, but there's a pressure of some winemakers, some wineries to expand. And I really hope that not to happen. Ouro knows, you know, global warming, things are changing and, you know, now we're planting vineyards where we used to have trees and woods because now it's warm and you can do that. So I'm not completely closed minded, but I'm in this sense, but, on this matter, but I'm, I wanna be a little careful with, with, like, pushing to make more. I think Barrolas should stay like, a very ill product that is special. We don't wanna be a massive product, yeah, for everyone. I hope that answers the questions. I was trying to be super politically correct so I don't get fired from the consortium. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. I I I think your answer is absolutely correct. But, again, you know, if if I remember correctly, the, your area, like, Lamura is, more or less about four hundred hectares of vineyards. So and, yeah, definitely for me, this, this size of the area of sub zone is, perfect to perfect for people who want to understand the terroir. And, for me, the northwestern part of Barolla area is, the best. Of course, some, a lot of so many years and divine professionals, will not agree with with me. But for me, the, like, the real barola is coming from barola and La Mora and, Northern vineyards. And especially in terms of, global warming. So could you please tell about, this situation because I know that, you need to, to cut some vineyards and to, grow different varieties due to global warming. Is it correct or not? And what is the future of La Mora in terms of varieties? Well, to cut vineyards because the global warming not yet, but you do have to be, careful. And the management of the vineyards has changed through the years. I mean, right now, we are so the impact that all these crazy events and wild events and random events that we have today that we didn't have in the past, they're like really hitting hard on us. Like, I remember my dad would say, oh, in the past, would only hail in summer. Now you can have a hailstorm in the middle of spring as well in the night as well in the fall. So as farmers, there's nothing we can do, but, you know, obviously protect our vineyards and to adjust ourself. I mean, we can do we we can do much else. We haven't gotten to the point that, we we have to change varieties or what we plan to what we plan where and how, but, we just have to learn, for example, the to delete more or delete less, the canopy management. So all these little things are details that you learn year by year, season by season. So it's not that there's a rule, and every winemaker might give you a different answer. But I think the only thing I can say, we all have to be very with the the eyes open, you know, and look at the signals, the signals of the weather, when it's it's dry. So, you know, there's a lot of things happening. Like, this year was super dry. We had a super hot summer, a very dry harvest, but luckily the vines didn't suffer because the vines are very the roots go very deep, so there was not an issue. So we learned with experience that you don't water your plants. Actually, it's not even legal here what are your plants when you plant a new vineyard because you have to train the roots to go deep. So you just learn by experience, and I'm sure the kids of my kids will know more than we do. For sure. And who knows? Maybe we'll plant, oh my god. We'll plant carbonate here. I don't know. No. No. It's too humid here. I don't think we can, but who knows? Maybe cover. I don't know. It's scary. Yeah. But, if if if I remember correctly, you, you have this project, in CEMA, And, with this project, maybe you, maybe some of the producers, produce wine from, Cabernesenio or not. Yeah. But I have three rows. It doesn't count. I probably have, like, a hundred plants. It's not a it's not really a massive, vineyard that I could use as, an example of, like, of management. So my dad planted Sierra Petivaldo and Caban and Savignon back in the early nineties in actually ninety one. And, I still have those vineyards, and we make this red wine, Lindsay, which is a wine project that we have together. That's what in Sierra means with other winemakers. But, it was done for fun. And, honestly, my dad, if you wanna get a little, a funny detail, planted those vineyards where I mean, it would have not planted the biolo barbera because it's kind of a bottom at the bottom of a hill where it's always humid. And the vines are doing fine, but they're not planted in the best spot because that's not my aim. I don't wanna become the most famous cavern producer from La Mora. No. Not yet. Okay. I I I don't want to be, like, a snobbish person, but, for me, the Cabernet Sevignon in Lange Hills is, sounds like, nightmare. I I have tried your NCema project, and the wines are very beautiful, but your nebulos is way more better. And, in my opinion, and, in the, you know, it's like, speaking about, this issue longer, I know that there are three, I think, three clones of Nebula, like, Lampia, Bullen Micket, if I correct, so are there any, you know, in any difference in the, in the future to, to use these clones? So some, some is better or some is worse. And I also know that Luciana Sandron have, like, fourth clone of it. Yeah. The Vida Talin. So the these are the three main clones that you mentioned that, but slowly through the years and through the decades, some of them have been abandoned because either too productive the lumpia or the rosette abandoned because too light and too much acidity, not much structure. So most of us, this day, plant Nikke. And that's what we have in the vineyards. This is what you get from the nursery. But again, who knows in the future. Maybe we might might go back, but right now we're most most of us sticking to Mike. Interesting with Luciano Sandrona. Yeah. He he got, what's supposedly is an original different clone, then he created a barolo out of that. But I have a story to tell you about this. Where we crush the grapes, where we we crush in the stem, we have a plant that start a vine a grapevine plant that started growing, and it didn't grow out of a tree, a rootstock that we planted, but it's a plant that grew out of a seed that eventually came out of whatever the crushing machine. So this plant was tiny and small, and now this plant is about twenty years old, and it's almost like a tree. It's huge. It's crawling on the walls of the winery. And we always looked at this plant thinking, okay, it's interesting. I mean, it's a plant that it's with no, pre fill ups or, you know, American rootstock, and it's growing, doesn't get any diseases. And crazy enough, the berries that we get at harvest time, they don't like Dolceto. They don't look like Barbera. They don't look like nebbiolo. They look like a Renee. So we're we were confused. And it's like, what is this? How did this plan grow? So we got the the the grapes and the the tree analyzed by the University of Torino? And crazy enough, we found out that it's ninety percent Nebula, and there's a ten percent of pinot noir. And we don't grow pinot noir. So somehow, we have a plant that out of the blue grew by itself, and it's the it's the proof. It's the evidence that probably Nebula Pironoir are cousins. So now, this is the first year actually that my dad made a little wine out of this what we always just called, like, the fruit tree because it's like a giant tree. So we made some wine and we're gonna taste, test the wine as well and see what the lab says. But, yeah, we we created a monster a monster clone, we'll see. We'll see. I'll tell you in the next interview what we come up with, but it came out of the blue. Yeah. That that's absolutely fantastic. So now I I I have to to pack my luggage and go to the region to to to check it because it sounds like the fifth clone of, Nebula, and, especially when it, when it comes with pinot noir, it's, it's very, very interesting. So I have a lot of, questions to try to, to give you, but, we slowly run out of time. So probably the main or not the main, like, the final question from me to you. I'm I'm very curious about it. It's about one of your, other interviews. So I read that, every morning, you write down plans for the day and, feel a great pleasure when these plants are fulfilled. So could you please tell me if you have, I don't know, one or maybe, like, top three plans for life that have not yet been deleted from the list which have to be done? Well, that's a difficult question. I'll have to kill you after I tell you because they're they're a little secretive, but, I think all of us as human beings, and we have projects, we have plans, and could be plans that you make with work, with your partner, with family. And, I do have my list every day where I, you know, I just write daily stuff, but I do have some major plans. And I I won't disclose all of them because then there won't be secret hands anymore. But the main one that I can definitely say is that out of the ten actors that we manage, we basically own about eight. And the other two, sometimes I can even get to three. I'm still renting. So my wish is to be able to purchase these vineyards that we've been renting in order to be more stable with my production because the rents are not as long as my dad used to have. So my dad's rents were ten, fifteen years old, long, fifteen years long, and now my rents are one year long, maybe two years long, and then the rent doesn't get renewed, and I lose the vineyard. And I'm gonna start over with another piece of land. So I feel I'm always continuously running and researching vineyards. So what do I wish? I just wish to be able to be stable with my production, not to run and hurry in rush to find vineyards. And, so I have two options. I have to marry the richest man, so I can have a lot of money to buy vineyards. But I married, and I didn't marry the richest man. So that option goes away. So I'm still working on the lottery option. If I win the lottery, then I'll be a millionaire, then I'll buy yards. But that's, that's a silly way to say that, you need a lot of money these days to, to put your hands on a good spot. So but my dream is to be stable and have my own vineyards. A hundred percent. Yep. Sylvia. To speak with you is, is a it's a pleasure even more than I have visited you in, in inside the Barolla area inside your winery. So you're a fantastic, fantastic woman. Fantastic personality. I wish you to to, to delete this dream, not dream, like the plan from, your list. And also the final small question about your, like, about your future, about your baby. I know that you have a small, small baby. So, what do you think? You, you, grow in a winemaker's family. So Would you like to give the same future for, for your baby? I grew up in a family where both me and my sister were never pushed to be in the business because being in wine, it's hard work. It's not just, you know, running, singing, singing, drinking, and being happy. No. It's hard work. It's physical. It's intense. You work twenty hours nonstop. You have to manage. You have to be at the same time. A farmer, a sales rep, a winemaker, an accountant. So it's really a complete job that involves all your energy and time and, honestly, it's not just about work. It's about passion. So what I'll teach about my daughter is she'll have to follow her passions and maybe I'll be able to transmit her passion that we have, and because she's gonna probably grow up here, or maybe she'll be a chef or she'll be a surfer in California. I don't know, but, I will not force her to be here. That's my dream. I want her to to choose to be here if she wants to. Yeah. So sounds like a great mother. I hope so. Ask me again when she's seventeen, and she screams at me. No. I I hope that, that, everything will will be very smooth. In terms of the future. So thank you very much for your, answers. And I think we have to go back to Joy to maybe we have some, questions from her or from the auditory actually, hi there. And that was a wonderful interview. And Any questions, guys? Anyways, no. That's nobody else. That's okay. If anybody does have questions because sometimes people are nervous to, speak up right right when it's live. So if anybody does have questions, you're always welcome to send us an email at italian wine podcast dot com, and we will pass it along to Stevia or Artem. And, yeah, I think that's that's it for this evening. I mean, if anybody wants to do one of these or knows of anyone who wants, an Italian wine lover or Italian wine ambassador, who wants to be, on this show, please go ahead and contact us through italia wine podcast dot com. You can also hit up Laika, the, clubhouse manager on Instagram, and With that being said, I see Stevie. Hey, Stevie. Are you there? I can see you. I don't think she's gonna say anything. Anyway, our time, Sylvia have a wonderful evening. I'm gonna close-up the room now. Fantastic was fun. Thank you. I know. This was fun. Okay. It was a great pleasure. Yeah. It's I'm happy to hear you. Wonderful. Alright. So everybody, have a good night, and we will see you next week. For another episode with. Andre, and, we have Beatrice and Felipo Quintini, from Capitezana. So Awesome. We'll see you next week with that episode. Bye, guys. Bye bye. Listen to the Italian wine podcast wherever you get your podcasts. We're on SoundCloud, Apple Podcasts, Spotify, email ifm, and more. Don't forget to subscribe and rate the show. If you enjoy listening, please consider donating through Italian online podcast dot com. Any amount helps cover equipment, production, and publication costs. Until next time. Hi, everybody. Italian wine podcast celebrates its fourth anniversary this year, and we all love the great content they put out every day. Chinching with Italian wine people has become a big part of our day, and the team in Verona needs to feel our love. 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