Ep. 80 Monty Waldin interviews Gian Maria Bonini (Emilia Wine) | Discover Italian Regions: Emilia-Romagna
Episode 80

Ep. 80 Monty Waldin interviews Gian Maria Bonini (Emilia Wine) | Discover Italian Regions: Emilia-Romagna

Discover Italian Regions: Emilia-Romagna

February 13, 2018
24,12222222
Gian Maria Bonini
Wine
podcasts
wine
audio
italy
music

Episode Summary

Content Analysis Key Themes and Main Ideas 1. The structure and scale of Italian wine cooperatives, specifically Emea wine in Emilia-Romagna. 2. The characteristics and production methods of native Italian grape varieties: Lambrusco and Spergola. 3. The evolution of the cooperative model: shifting from quantity-focused to quality-focused production and image. 4. The unique terroir and geography of Emilia-Romagna, including its hilly, chalky areas suitable for specific wine types. 5. The integration of Italian wine with traditional local gastronomy and food pairing. 6. Generational shifts and the future of grape growing within the cooperative framework. Summary In this episode of the Italian Wine Podcast, host Walter Gordon interviews Jamoria Bonini, sales representative for Emea wine, a large cooperative based in Emilia-Romagna with 729 members. Jamoria highlights Emea wine's production, focusing on their Lambrusco and the native white grape Spergola. He explains that Spergola, grown in the chalky hills of Emilia-Romagna, is primarily used for sparkling wines, including Metodo Classico, which one of their wineries pioneered in the region in 1979. The discussion also covers the changing perception of cooperatives, with Emea wine actively working to emphasize quality over sheer volume, a challenging but necessary shift for the future. Jamoria touches on convincing growers to reduce yields, the re-discovery of Lambrusco biotypes through university collaboration, and the renewed interest of young people in farming. He concludes by suggesting classic Italian food pairings for both Spergola (mushrooms, fresh fish) and Lambrusco (fatty local dishes like lasagna and cured meats). Takeaways - Emea wine is a significant cooperative in Emilia-Romagna, boasting 729 members and extensive vineyard holdings. - Spergola is a native white grape from the Emilia-Romagna hills, known for its chalky soil, making it ideal for sparkling wines. - One of Emea Wine's wineries (Casalevidicothori) pioneered Metodo Classico production in Emilia-Romagna as early as 1979. - Italian wine cooperatives are actively working to redefine their image, focusing on quality production beyond just high volume. - Convincing growers to prioritize reduced yields for quality is a key, long-term challenge but deemed essential for the future. - There is a growing trend of younger generations returning to and rediscovering work in agriculture in the Emilia-Romagna region. - Lambrusco, a red sparkling wine, is traditionally paired with rich, fatty dishes typical of Emilia-Romagna cuisine. - Spergola sparkling wine pairs well with lighter fare such as mushrooms and fresh fish. Notable Quotes - ""We are changing something because... we are a perfect example of that."

About This Episode

The speakers discuss the Italian market and the potential for growth in wines from their current offerings. They also talk about investing in the future and creating special dishes based on quality and local ingredients. They mention the importance of investing in the future and creating a special white marbled wine called a mini lZA. They also discuss the variety of wines they make and how they use them, including a red sparkling wine called a mini lZA and a red mini lZA called a Marani. They emphasize the importance of quality and the need for a commitment to maintaining it.

Transcript

Italian wine podcast. Chinching with Italian wine people. This podcast has been recorded during Vivete, an event organized by the Alianca de recuperativita Aliano, the alliance of Italian corps. Hello. This is Italian in my podcast. My name is Walter Gordon. Yeah. My guest today is Jamoria Bonini. Jameria handles the sales for a cooperative called Emea wine. So obviously, you're in Emea. Emea. Emea because we are located in a regimilia, the city of our cooperative. Okay. So how big is the how many members do you have? The immediate one? We have like, seven hundred and twenty nine members today. We are bringing to introduce new members in two thousand and eighteen. We have the second group in the province of, Virginia for numbers because we have three different wineries, seven hundred members that they said, and, more or less thirty five thousand acknowledisons of production for years. So what are your main wines? We're talking Lambert not only Lambrusco, because we are producing a special wine called Spergula. Okay. It's out of big, bunyards located in the hills of French Media. The Spergula is a native grape variety. It's a native. Yeah. Red or white. It's white. Okay. It's white wine. We produce black de blank from the, our Spergula in a Shermat method. So the fermentation is in tanks and both, yeah, like class is method because our winery that call it Casalevidicothori is a part of the group, Amelia Y, was the first one in, nineteen seventy nine, to do, Mato de Chlasseco, Champpin West in, Virginia area. Really? Yeah. Is that So it's, six year, today, six year in, in the bottles of fermentation. And, for example, two weeks ago, I was in Marano, wine festival, wine hunter, and I was Percula, Meto Locico, Cabizena, was the oldest of warfare because he's nineteen eighty four. As a as a normal one, as a still wine, what are the characteristics of spare cooler? It's not steel. It's sparkling because we are from the city of sparkling people sparkling. Never make us still wine from spare. In, yeah, in the past years, but it's not the origin of the spherical one. So why why is spherical is so good for sparkling wine? Yeah. Because our heels is full of gesso, which is chalk. Exactly. Like the heels of ramps in France. Okay. So in nineteen, between the years of nineteen seventy, seventy one, seventy two, the oldest property of Casa de Chultory went for six year in France to study out to make that. So Traditional methods, Bartling, what is happening to our Because it's not very used and popular in the early of, in nineteen seventy to do that in, in our region. Why? Because it's a much slower process than making, say, Lambrusco, which is great. Very quickly. It is it's quick to to to make a rambusco and sparkling wine. Quick to get to market. Quick to get your money. Yeah. The production is still, a lot. You know, that, a lot of production sometimes doesn't doesn't it's a conflict between high quality. So, right now, we are very lucky because our members are located in the plants of Virginia in the center and in the hills and the mountains. For example, our Spergular Viners are located in between two hundred meters for six hundred meters. That's quite high, isn't it? We always think of Emilio Romagna or in that whole area as being very, very flat. You're saying the Amelia part, it's got is is more hilly. Yeah. Because in the border between Amelia and Tysotuscany, there is up in happen in it. Apple nice. And our baniels are located also in the appearance in the early, part of the afternoon, but, yeah. So how far away are you from bologna? Like forty five minutes in Highway. Okay. I love I love how Italian to always say how much it takes, how long it takes to drive somewhere. Nobody always says, oh, it's fifty five kilometers. It's all about the driving time. Yeah. Yeah. It's, sixty, sixty kilometers. Yeah. And you and you motorbike in your spare time. Is that Yeah. It's alright. But now I understand why you gave me that. Yeah. I I love motorcycles. In in my blood, there is wine and a motorcycle. Okay. Not at the same time, I hope. Exactly. So we talked about, how you do the market in Italy? What is the market? How receptive is Italian market to the wines that you're selling and wines from cooperatives in general. Is there a positive view of cooperatives? All the way that I know, it's just gonna be cheap and high production. In the in the past, the the idea of the vehicle from a cooperative, especially in our area, is is that cheap wine. U huge market, huge numbers of hectoliters for years. But right now, we are a perfect, example of that. We are changing something because So what are you changing then? Are you telling your growers who give you the grade? It's usually because our bunyards are very, very big. Okay? And for our bottle, we selected with, agronis and analogy is the directory in the vineyards. So when I want to make something special like a classic metal or a a a premium, Lambrusco, I selected directly the vineers. This is the the the fortune to work in a cup operative because, for example, if I have, winery, private to winery, I can I must buy the wine from a cooperative? Yeah. You have more choice with a cooperative. Yeah. But how easy is it convincing growers? If I'm a grape grower and you say Monte I think you've got a lovely vineyard here, lovely hillsides, old vines. I want you to maybe reduce your yield so that I can get your wine into x supermarket or x restaurant. How are you gonna convince me to to make that sacrifice to do the extra work to lose some yield and maybe wait longer for for you to pay me the money for my grapes. Only one word for the future. For the future. Okay. So you say you gotta you gotta invest in the future Yeah. Short term pain but long term gain. Yeah. Is that the quality But you're young. I mean, how do you mean some of these grows? I imagine you're dealing with quite should we say senior members of the wine growing community older? How do they react to some young guy? Because also the the members exactly. The members, normally, the old is within five fifty five and seventeen. Right. But That's young in Italy though, isn't it? Seventy is like a teenager. Right? Exactly. But these members are children. So for the future of that is it's not a choice to make quality. We must make quality. Yep. Are are the younger generation interested in growing grapes, or do they want to be sitting behind a desk going online? Do they wanna they wanna farm? In our in our area, yeah, the people, the young people want to rediscovery that work directly in the farms. Okay. So you make a you make a Lambrusco as well. So that's a a red sparkling wine, Charmat method. Charmat method, fermenti also fermentation in bottom. It's not the classic method. We call ancestor method. Okay. So which great variety? Which of the Lambrusco family you're using for that one. All the grapes of Virginia area. So, Lambrusco Maestry, Lambrusco Marani, Lambrusco Salamino, Monterico, Marblegentilla. We make a special wine called a mini lungo like long miles created in collaboration with the University of Virginia that rediscovery twenty one different bio types. Biotypes of grapes of Lambrusco, except that three three years in the laboratory to discovery, plant in the farms. It's only twelve years ago. We make that. It's very special because in only one bottle, you can find the kind of the the the the year and the vineyards, seventeen seventeen and twenty one grapes of Lamusto. Okay. Now interesting. Now final question, if I'm having a sparkling spare gola, what is what is a great, dish for that? A local dish from your area. A local dish from our area is mushroom. What? Like with that pasta? With pasta but without nothing. Only mushrooms. So sote, basically, with a pretty ball roll. Is that is that way? And fish fresh fish? And for for the Lambrusco. For Namusco, dinner with very huge fat. Fatty dishes. Yeah. Like, in our area, we make, lasagna. Yeah. Okay. Salami, mortadella, Lambruschka's perfect, and it's the reason why Lambruschka is located in, in the area because our dishes are full of fat. But you're the exec, you're, Streto, you're thin as a rate we say in English. So Okay. So you survived the Amelia Okay. And the the terrifyingly, heavy, Emilia was in. Jammaria Bonini. Thank you very much for coming in today. Thank you to tell us about Amelia wine. And, I look forward to coming to see those high altitude spurgle of onions. Okay. Take it easy. Thanks a lot. Thanks so much. Ciao. Ciao. This episode has been brought to you by Vin Italy twenty eighteen, taking place in verona from April fifteenth to eighteenth. 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