Ep. 427 Sangiovese Lambrusco... | Garganega
Episode 427

Ep. 427 Sangiovese Lambrusco... | Garganega

Garganega

October 28, 2020
38,73402778

Episode Summary

Content Analysis Key Themes and Main Ideas 1. The ancient history and genetic relationships of Italian grape varieties, particularly Garganega and Sangiovese. 2. The application of genetics and molecular biology in tracing grape lineage, synonymy, and geographical spread. 3. The interconnectedness of seemingly disparate Italian wine regions through shared grape ancestries. 4. The identification of ""missing links"" and key progenitor varieties, such as Montonico Bianco, in the genetic tree of Italian grapes. 5. Revisiting and challenging traditional beliefs about the origins and distribution of well-known grape varieties. Summary This segment from the Italian Wine Podcast, narrated from the book ""San Jose, Lambrusco, and other vine stories"" by Atigio Shenza and Serena Eimaccio, delves into the fascinating genetic history of Italian grape varieties. It primarily focuses on Garganega and Sangiovese, revealing their ancient origins and complex kinship relationships across the peninsula. The narration explains how genetic and molecular biology studies have uncovered surprising synonyms, like Garganega with Grecanico Dorato in Sicily and even a Catalan variety, and how it shares first-degree kinship with numerous other varieties like Malvasia Bianca di Candia, Trebiano Toscano, and Martsemina Bianco. A significant revelation is the role of Montonico Bianco as a ""common missing link"" and a key progenitor, generating many varieties, including Cataratto, and showing kinship with Guardavale. The podcast also challenges the long-held belief that Sangiovese is exclusively Tuscan, demonstrating its historical links to varieties from Puglia, Calabria, and Sicily, although its direct parents remain unidentified. The discussion highlights how ampelographic similarities between grapes often signify parent-child relationships, providing a scientific backbone to grape history. Takeaways - Garganega, though less known than Sangiovese, boasts a more ancient history, with its first mention dating back to the 13th century. - Genetic and molecular biology studies have revealed extensive kinship links and synonymy among Italian grape varieties across diverse regions. - Mantonico Bianco is a crucial ""missing link"" or progenitor variety, playing a significant role in the lineage of many Southern Italian grapes, including Cataratto. - The historical and genetic links of Sangiovese extend far beyond Tuscany, connecting it to varieties in Puglia, Calabria, and Sicily. - Ampelographic similarities between grape varieties are often explained by direct parent-child relationships. - Ancient varieties like Montonico Bianco, despite their historical importance, may be at risk of decline or have only recently been formally registered. Notable Quotes - ""Gataganaga even if less well known than SanJovese has a more ancient history."

About This Episode

The Italian wine podcast introduces a series of audio content from various varieties of wines, including Gataganaga, San Jose, and Malvasia. They also discuss historical and economic importance of the varieties, including the G plainy Viro, which is used in winemaking wines. The transcript provides examples of varieties with similar names and their historical and economic importance, and ends with a promotion for a book and thank you for listening to the installment of San Jose Lambrusco.

Transcript

Welcome to the Italian wine podcast. My name is Joy Living in. And for the next several weeks, I will be bringing you some choice narrated content from the book San Jose, Lambrusco, and other vine stories written by mister Science himself, Professor Atigio Shenza, and Serena Eimaccio. Published by positive press dot net. To get a copy of the book, the kindle version is available on Amazon and hardcover copies are available from positive press. If you like the content we share each week, consider donating to our show. Find details at italian wine podcast dot com or on our social media channels. Sit back and get your geek on as we jump into the details stories and science of Italian wines and vines. Gataganaga and SanJovese parallel stories in black and white. Gataganaga even if less well known than SanJovese has a more ancient history. Its first mention dates back to the thirteenth century in a treatise by the agronomist Pietro de Creshenzi in which the author describes it as a variety grown in bologna and Padua. Its fame, however, is undoubtedly linked to the wines of Swave and Gambelara on the border between verona and Vicenza. The first time that Gerganiga came to the forefront of the wine news was when genetics and molecular biology discovered that the Gregani coat Dorato grown in Sicily and Gerganiga are synonymous. Even more surprising is it's synonymy with the catalan variety called Malvasia, the Mandresa, whose cultivation has now been abandoned. Here too, we are talking about varieties traditionally grown in territories that are very distant from each other. Always observing the kinship relationships of this variety another characteristic emerges. Garganaga, Gericaniko Dorato loves to travel. In fact, it has first degree kinship links with several well known varieties ranging throughout the peninsula such as a Martsemina Bianco and Dorona minor varieties of Veneto along with Malvasia Bianca di Candia, Trebiano Perugino, the well known Trebiano toscano, Alabama, and m Pibote, of Central Italy, up to Montonico and Catalato. Many of these varieties are characterized by long white grape bunches and an abundant and reliable production. Qatar is present in two types. Biananko commune with very pruneaus grapes and glossy with a less abundant waxy coating. This second type is currently the most widespread because it is more productive and consistent than the common white. According to the two thousand and ten Istat census, Cartarato is the most important variety in Sicily and the fourth in order of area called motivation in Italy after San Jose Montepulciano and Merlo. Trebiano toscano is also widespread in France and synonymous with uniblon, especially in the area of cognac. It is one of the classic grape varieties blended for the production of county wine. Threviano Perugino, on the other hand, is a little known variety preserved in the Amplographic collections of the CRE of Coneliano and of Vasal and rarely found in today's wine growing areas. MPibote is cultivated in the Marque region and owes its name to its great productivity significantly. Pargadebit literally pay the debt is among its synonyms. Montanico is a typical variety of the Adriatic coast widely present in almost all regions bathed by the sea, especially in Marcat and Abruzzo and then down as far as Pulia. It is also cultivated in Calabria not to be confused with Mantonico, which is disparate throughout central and southern Italy. It can be from the large list of synonyms revealing its ancient presence, including, for example, and in Marque, Kyaparone, and Dolciolo in Forja. In Ganacane, Bianco, Incenese, Uva Delascala in Tarantino, Geracobianco, Del polino, in Calabrio. Recently, it has also been found in Tuscany and ambria. It is an interesting variety with a duality to it for wine and as a table grape, but it is experiencing a progressive decline. The white Martsemina also called Sampania or Champpania because its grapes lend themselves very well to the production of a pleasant sparkling wine is an old miner variety of Venetal. Mentioned since at least sixteen seventy nine and used in blends with other white varieties including glera verdizo and vespayola. Its presence albeit under other names has also been verified in Frioli and Romania. Dorona is an old variety from the Veneto region with a dual purpose used both for winemaking and as a table grape. The family relationships of some of these varieties have been completed and clarified thanks above all to the discovery of a common missing link represented by an ancient and valuable variety once again at risk of extinction. Mantonico Bianco. This also called Mantonaco Viro, I e, Mantonico Vero, is a minor grape variety of Calabria, registered only recently in two thousand fourteen in the National Register. It is cultivated for the production of varietal wines in the province of Regio, along the ionian coast where it is also known as Montonico Di Bianco located mainly in La Crida in the countryside of Bianco and Casignana. Its name suggestively recalls the Greek adjective which means prophetic as if to indicate a sacred power of divination possessed by the wine obtained from its grapes. It is also found in the province of Palermo Where it is known by the name of Montuanico. Like Greco de Bianco synonymous with Malvasia Delillipari, Montonico bianco is used for the production of sweet dessert wines. But it is also suitable for fine wines and sparkling wines. Care must be taken as in Calabria, there are several varieties with similar names so it can be easily confused. The Garganica, Grechanico Dorato, and Antonico Bianco created an illustrious descendant, the already mentioned Katarato. However, We should remember the other important Progyny obtained by crossing with sangiovese such as Galiapo, Nerelomascalese, and Antonicone. It is also very interesting that Antonio Bianco, Bianco, shows a first degree kinship with Guardavale considered an atochthiness white wine among the most widespread in Calabria. Galiapo, not to be confused with the Galliapo de Marquet, or Gallioca, is one of the most cultivated indigenous Calabrian varieties, especially in the area of Chiro. Where it was mentioned at least by the end of the eighteenth century. Its presence dates back to the time of the Greeks. According to etymology, the name comes from kalos, beautiful, and photos, foot. Where foot in Grechanico means bunch. Nerello Masaleza takes its name from the plane of Muscali in Catania, but it is also cultivated in Calabria. To add to the various Nerelli of the region. Antonicone is a minor vine present as far as it has been reconstructed so far exclusively in Calabria and whose name is emblematic of the relationship with Mantoni Cobianco revealed by DNA analysis. Mantoni Cobianco together with Gaganaga and San Giovanni has therefore played a key role in generating many varieties in Southern Italy, Some of which are of great historical and economic importance. Other triples of the initial pairs have been completed with complementary parents other than the menthol Nicobianco. For example, Dorona was the daughter of Garganica, Grechanico Dorato, and Bernestia Bianca. A vine also used as a table grape, once very common, especially in Sicily. But with unexpected productivity due to the female flowers. This discovery explains the morphological similarity highlighted in the amp paragraphs between Dorona and Karaganaga. Another case of ampelegraphic similarity that can be explained with the parent child relationship concerns the two Venetian Araboso so similar to each other that an expert eye is needed to distinguish them. Raboso Veronese is in fact the son of Raboso Kiave and Martsemina Bianca, which in turn is associated in the first degree with Garganaga, Gericanico Dorato. Rabozo veronese can be defined as a kind of Rabozo pieave, less late, less acidic, less rich in polyphenols and anthocyanins and with more sugar. According to historical reconstructions, cabozo veronese could have spread in the province of Vichanza and its surroundings starting from the cultivations of the counts Papadopuli in colonia Veneta in the veronese area, where Roboso Piave was certainly cultivated, and probably also other minor varieties of the Veneto, including Martsemina Bianca. For this reason, it is probable that the progenitor of Rapozo veronese was born and then selected and bred in those states, propagated by the same counts Papadopuli, who had a nursery of vines in San Paulo de Piave, Trevizio. It could have been baptized Rabozo because of the strong similarity with the parent Rabozo Piave. The name would have been completed as for its obligatory distinction and to maintain the specification of its origin. The historical link between San Jose and varieties from Polia, Calabria, and Sicily has profoundly changed the belief that it is a tuscan grape. The mystery of its origin, however, is not yet clarified and conflicting hypotheses have been put forward about its putative parents, calling into question Chia Jolo, sometimes as a child, sometimes as a parent. In this book, we have reported the reconstruction that seems most plausible to us in light of the knowledge that is currently available, namely that the Chileangelo is one of the descendants of San Jose, and that both parents of the latter are still to be identified. The relationship between Gerganega, Gerganejo, and varieties from the south and north of Italy but also from central Italy. Clearly indicate that this vine has been spread throughout the peninsula, while currently it appears relegated to two opposite poles, the Veneto and Sicily. At the moment, it is not possible to understand the direction of its diffusion over the centuries. Thank you for listening to this week's installment of San Jose Lambrusco and other vine stories. We hope you expanded your horizons and gave your brain cells an Italian wine workout. We'll see you again next Thursday and remember the kindle version of the book is available on Amazon and hardcover copies are available from positive press dot net. If you feel inspired to make a donation to our show, please visit us at the Italian wine podcast dot com. Find Italian wine podcast on Facebook and Instagram. Our Twitter handle is at ita wine podcast.