Ep. 1632 Marco Gandini Narrates Pt. 41 | Italian Wine Unplugged 2.0
Episode 1632

Ep. 1632 Marco Gandini Narrates Pt. 41 | Italian Wine Unplugged 2.0

Italian Wine Unplugged 2.0

October 28, 2023
57,38958333
Marco Gandini
Wine
wine
podcasts

Episode Summary

Content Analysis Key Themes and Main Ideas 1. Detailed Exploration of Italian Grape Varietals: The primary focus is on specific Italian grape groups – Scava, Trebbiano, and Vernaccia – providing in-depth descriptions of their characteristics, origins, and resulting wine profiles. 2. Genetic Diversity and Naming Conventions: Discussion of how grape names can be misleading (e.g., ""Scava"" referring to a training system, ""Trebiano"" being genetically disparate, ""Vernaccia"" meaning ""local""). 3. Regional Significance and DOC/DOCG Regulations: Highlighting the specific regions where these grapes are predominantly grown and their importance within various Italian Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) and Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) appellations. 4. Winemaking Techniques and Wine Styles: Describing the typical vinification methods (e.g., flor aging, air-drying, reductive winemaking) and the diverse range of wine styles produced from these grapes (e.g., light-bodied reds, crisp whites, oxidative whites, sparkling reds, sweet passito wines). 5. Challenges and Quality Potential: Addressing issues such as misidentification, susceptibility to oxidation, and the factors contributing to high-quality wines (e.g., old vines, precise harvesting, specific winemaking approaches). Summary This excerpt from ""Italian Wine Unplugged 2.0"" provides a detailed textual overview of three major Italian grape varietal groups: Scava, Trebbiano, and Vernaccia. It begins by describing the Scava group, highlighting them as morphologically similar but genetically unrelated varieties primarily found in Trentino and Alto Adige, known for light-bodied, fragrant, high-acidity wines. It then delves into specific Scava types like Scavagentile, Scavagrija, and Scavagrosa. The text moves on to the Trebiano group, which despite its common name, consists mainly of genetically distinct varieties characterized by high vigor, yield, and adaptability. It meticulously details Trebiano Abruzzese, often misidentified but capable of producing high-quality, unoaked Chablis-like wines if handled with care; Trebiano Toscano, the most widely planted white, valued for its high acidity in blends; Trebiano Romagnolo, a productive variety from Emilia-Romagna; and Trebiano Spoletino from Umbria, known for its varied styles. Finally, the excerpt covers the Vernaccia group, noting that the name often signifies a ""local"" grape rather than a genetic link. It describes Vernaccia di San Gimignano from Tuscany, producing pale, fresh whites with almond notes; Vernaccia di Oristano from Sardinia, unique for its flor-aged, sherry-like oxidative wines; and Vernaccia Nera from Umbria/Marche, an aromatic red used for sparkling or sweet wines like Vernaccia di Serrapetrona, often from air-dried grapes. The overall text serves as a comprehensive guide to these grape varieties, touching upon their characteristics, cultivation, and the distinct wines they produce. Takeaways * The name ""Scava"" for grapes like Scavagentile, Scavagrija, and Scavagrosa, refers to a shared ancient training system (vines tied to poles) rather than genetic relatedness. * Scava wines are typically light-bodied, light-colored, intensely fragrant (strawberry, violet, almond), and have high acidity. * The Trebiano group, while sharing common viticultural traits like high vigor and late ripening, is mostly genetically unrelated. * Trebiano Abruzzese, though often misidentified, can produce high-quality white wines with mineral savoriness, resembling unoaked Chablis, especially from old vines. * Trebiano Toscano is Italy's most widely planted white grape and is crucial due to its high acidity, often used as a blending partner. * The Vernaccia name is applied to various unrelated ""local"" grapes throughout Italy. * Vernaccia di Oristano wines from Sardinia are unique, undergoing flor aging similar to Sherry, resulting in complex, often fortified, and highly oxidative wines. * Vernaccia Nera is an aromatic red grape used for sparkling (Vernaccia di Serrapetrona DOCG) or sweet passito wines, often made from air-dried grapes. * Quality for many of these varieties, particularly Scava and Trebiano Abruzzese, is significantly enhanced by using old vines. Notable Quotes * ""Scava is a group of unrelated varieties found in Europe's alpine countries."

About This Episode

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Transcript

For all the super wine geeks out there, we have a special new series dedicated to you. We are reading excerpts. From our new addition of Italian wine unplugged two point o. Wine lovers tune in for your weekly fix only on Italian wine podcast. If you want to own a copy of this new must read Italian wine textbook, just go to amazon dot com or visit us at mama jumbo shrimp dot com. Skava group group red Scava GENTile, Scavagriga Scavagrosa. Other group members, red, Scavaneera. Description, though morphologically similar, Skeva is a group of unrelated varieties found in Europe's alpine countries. They are all characterized by a rugged disposition and make light bodied light color wines, light color wines. Scava is better known as tollinga in Austria and Germany and as in Alto Adige. Rather than indicating a specific set of related grapes, Denamed Scava possibly refers to the common grapevine training system they share. It comes from the Latin Veneys Slavis, meaning vines enslaved, alluding to the fact that these vines were tied to poles in ancient Roman times. In Italy, varieties of this Java group are almost exclusively grown in Trentino and alto adige. Though scavenera is only found in lumber d, and some believe it is identical to Scavagrosa. Scavagrosa is the most popular, particularly as new clones give smaller berries making richer wines that age better. DOC regulations such as Alto adige, DOC, Santamadalena, and Lago decaldaro, DOC, do not stipulate which scava can be used. When not specified, the wires are generally a combination of all these of all these scavas or two of the main three. They are often interplanted and simply referred to as scavas. All scavas are generally intensely fragrant with strawberry, violet, and almond notes and light to medium bodied with high acidity. Though charming, they tend to be simple and straightforward still dry, though sometimes semi sweet breads. However, all vines have demonstrated that they are capable of imparting, surprising, concentration, and complexity suggesting that age of vines rather than subvariety might be key to quality. Scavagentile, red description. Also known as Scavapikola due to its small though sometimes medium sized bunches. Late revenue, low yields, and small berries give it a reputation for producing quality juice. While few true monomer ridals exist, it can be said to produce reds that are dark pink to pale ruby in hue with fresh red fruits. Red current sour red cherry, strawberry, and floral notes, buttercup, and violets. It is prized for rosato, thanks to its perfumed aromas, light body, and high acid. Benchmark producers, Cantina Bolzano, Katina Hamin, Skavaggrega, red, description. Also called cow Permarch. Cow Grija refers to the copious bloom on the berries, which makes the grapes look gray. Some monovarietal bottlings are found in alto adige. This wines are bright pink in color with aromas of violets, red current, pomegranate, and marzipan, as well as celine tang. It is perhaps the most refined of scavas. Scavagrosa, reds, description. Distinguished by big berries and big bunches, Although new clones of Scava Gosa produce smaller berries. It is the highest yielding of Scavas with more delicate aromas and flavors at higher acidity. Scavagrosa is a parent along with Moscato Delisandria of Marvazi de Lacio and with riesling of karma. Given DUC regulations, it is difficult to find true maneuver rails. Trebiano group, group, white, Trebiano Brociano Toscano, Trebiano Romagnolo Treviano's Polletino. Other group members, whites, Trebiano, Trebiano Modenese. Description, apart from the genetic tie between Trebiano Brucese and Trebiano Spolitino, the Trebiano Group members are for the most part unrelated genetically. In the vineyard, however, they are all characterized by high vigor and yield, long and large bunches, late ripening, and very adaptive to different terrors. This explains why over the centuries, these different varieties have been lumped together into a generic Trebiano group. Traviano Bercese, white, description. An often misidentified grape. The correct name of grape is Trebiano Abrucise, while Trebiano Davruzzo is the name of its wine. Vompino Bianco was long considered a synonym of Trebiano Brocise, but it is only recently discovered to be a distinct variety associated regions and DOPs. Abbruso, Trebiano dabruso, d o c. And the vineyard, according to many producers, Rio Trebiano dabruso is a minority in the vineyard. Where it is often confused with Trebiano Toscano, and Pasadena. Unlike most other Trebiano's, the grapes of Trebiano Brocese remain deep straw green even when ripe. It is a late ripener, like all the members of the Trebiano group, and its acidity drops fast when maturity is reached. As such, care must be taken in harvesting at precisely deride moments in order to make the best possible wine. In the glass, pale straw lemon in color winds off Tribune exude sense of lemon and peach with a hint of white flower. The dense texture on the palette is supported by bright acidity and a mineral savoriness. At their best, these wines have a remarkable similarity to unoaked chablis, although somewhat lacking chardonnay's glycerol mouthfeel. Currently, two of Italy's top whites are made with Trebiano Brucese, Trebiano da brusso, GOC, and Tiberios, Trebiano da brusso, GOC, Fonte Camale. Both are made from very old vines and are far superior and distinct from other tribunal Davruzzo. These names are worth remembering as they represent app slute benchmarks for this misunderstood variety and its wines. Lasser examples may suffer from excessive oxidation as Trebiano Brucese is a wide grape high in polyphenols. And can easily oxidize. As a result, reductive winemaking with this variety is gaining currency. The drawback here is that all wines resemble sauvignon blanc rather than expressing the true characteristics of Trebiano Bercisez. Specific styles still try white wine, hundred percent Trepiano Brucese wine is rare since it's often erroneously identified and co planet with Trebiano toscano, bambino bianco and other varieties. Panchmark producers, Macharelli, illuminati, Torre de Beiati. Trebiano Toscano, the most widely planted wide variety in Italy. In France, it is known as Uniblo. Undeniably Italian, it is found to have a parent offspring relationship with Garganaga. Important to note also, it was used to create Vidal. One of the most commercially successful hybrid's famous for its role in the production of many Canadian ice wines. Sociating regions and DOPs, Tuscany, Elba, DOC, Bianco, Montecuco, GOC, Santantino, DOCs, Venetto, Bianco de Custoza, GOC, Gabbelara, DOC, Lugana, DOC. Some plantings can also be found in Marque and umbria. In the vineyard, late budding and warmth loving Trebiano toscano has high adapt adaptability has high adaptability and productivity, which accounts for its popularity in Italy and elsewhere. In the glass, Trebiano Tuscano is beloved for its high acidity. It lands backbone to many blends and thus plays a crucial role in the production of Vincent. Dry wines typically smell of lemon and chamomile and are marked by racy acidity. All vines may give more concentrated wines, but the aroma spectrum and texture of Trebiano toscano wines are rather limited. Specific styles, still wine brills. Both dry and sweet bassiro are equally important. For Vincent, the most important blending partner is Malvasia Bianca. Benchmark producers Veneto, Cavalquina, Monte delfra, Dalvaso. Traviano Romagnolo, white's description. Another one of the most planted white grapes variety in Italy. Plantics are concentrated in Emilia Romania, especially in the province of Ravena, where it is often called and It is often mixed up in the vineyard with Trebiano Toscano and like all Trebiano's, it is a productive variety. Quality wise, many wines of Trebiano Romagnolo are a step up compared to those made with old vine, Trebiano Toscano, boasting a wrapper fruit profile and denser palette. However, different biotypes of Trebiano Romagnolo exist. So they are not all equally quantitative. In general, these wines failed to excite and are made to be consumed in the immediate short term. Dry, simple, still, and sparkling wines are the most common. Viroidal versions are rare, and it is often co planet and vineified with Trebiano toscano. Treviano Espolletino. Description. A popular grape found around the towns of Espolletto and Montefalco in umbria. Late ripening downy mildew and butrides resistant, it behaves like one of the tourbillonos. Across the board, the wires are generally very good. However, the seal, the still dry wines made with Trebiano's Palletino, lack a common identity. Some are citrusy and crisp, almost sauvignon blanc light, While others are heavy and alcoholic, those that taste like Moscatobianco are probably made with local aromatic grapes inadvertently grown in the same vineyard. Benchmark producers, Fongeli, Tabarini, Antonelli, San Marco. Group, white, Other family members, whites, Vernaccina, Vernaccina Rimenez, red, Vernaccia Niragrosa. Description, Vernaca, appears to be renamed given to a large collection of grapes scattered all throughout Italy with only one thing in common, the Vernacha name. The most widely held theory maintains that the name stems from the latin from the latin word meaning local and therefore many local farmers use the Verna prefix for their grapes. White description. This grape takes its name from the spectacular medieval hilltop town in Tuscany as does the wine Vernacha di san gimignano, DOCG. It is the name as the ligurian variety pick up on. Associated regions and DOPs. Tuscany, Vernacha di san gimignano, DOCG. Indiviner, pentagonal and round leaf, fairly large compact bunch, medium large berries of various shapes ranging from round to elliptical. In the glass, when unoaked, the wines are very pale yellow in color, often with green tinges. This clean fresh versions offer lemon zest and sage All finishing up with a hint of almonds. Specific styles still dry white. The recerava versions which may also be oaked, show hints of vanilla and can be balanced provided the oak has been used cautiously. Benchmark producers, Panizi, Montin Italy, Chezzani. Vernacha Deristano, white's description. Not to be left behind by Vernacha di Saniano, Here is another case of a grape variety and a wine denomination with identical names. Vernacha diristano is both the name of the grape variety and the d o c white wine Verna Caturistano from Sardinia. Although relatively small plantings exist, devines are predominantly old, many between thirty to fifty years and several over fifty. Wine's styles range from dry, table wine to fortified versions that can be either dry or sweet. Interestingly, most Veraccia Diristano wines are aged in barrels, which are not completely topped up, thus encouraging the development of flour, similar to Sherry. Some are aged for many years in this manner concentrating the wine, increasing the alcohol and oxidizing very, very slowly, thanks to the protective floor covering. VBAS are actually not fortified, but do involve floor development. In either case, de wines can be quite complex, showing hints of bitter almond, tried apricots, hazelnuts, orange, rind, herbs, and welted flowers. Vernacha di produces one of the world's greatest white wines. On a par with the best examples of Sherry. However, as this style of wine is currently less fashionable, both grape and wine face challenges going forward. Panchmark producers, Continue, silvio Carta, reds, description, found in umbria and Marche, this red Vernacha has been famous throughout the past throughout the past few centuries, even though there is a very little of air planet today. An aromatic red, it is responsible for the unique wine, Vernaca Ticera Petrona, DOCG, which is a which is a bottle for man in sparkling wine that must be made from at least forty percent air dried grapes. Similar to the fuller bodied, Lambrusco's Vernache di serapetrona wines show beautiful floral aromas such as rose and violet, as well as deep black sherry notes On the nose and pallet. Because this grape takes well to air drying, sweet pastido styles are also made. The set of Petrona DOC turns out equally rich non sparkling versions. Patchmark producers, Alberto Cuaquarini. Listen to the Italian wine podcast wherever you get your podcast. 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