Ep. 532 Moscatos & Malvasias | Jumbo Shrimp Guide to International Grape Varieties

Welcome to the Thailand Wine podcast. I'm Rebecca Lawrence. And I am Yacupofanshoo Lee, and we are the authors of the jumbo sharing guide to Italian wine series. This show will feature generations of our can book in the series, the job opportunities. Guide to study online, international great varieties. We wrote this book for Curzwain lovers. Especially those who enjoy the idea of having a lighthearted entertaining crash course into this very broad topic. China, as we journey through the world of Italian wine. Hello, and welcome to another installment of the second shrimp guide to Italian wine. International Great varieties in Italy presented by the Italian wine podcast. My name is Joy Livingston, and I'll be your narrator for this series. The jungle Shrimp guide to Italian wine International varieties in Italy is the new book from Positive Press, and if you're wondering how to get a copy of the book, the Kindle version will soon be available on Amazon, and the paperback will likewise be available from Positive Press dot net. Joining to the Italian wine podcast, and we'll send you a complimentary paperback copy of the book. Wait. I should rephrase that. It seems like last time I said this, a one dollar donation cost us thirty dollars to ship to Tajikistan. Seriously, not cool dude. So by donating a minimum of ten dollars to the Italian wine podcast, we'll send you a free copy of the buck. Find details at italia wine podcast dot com, and remember to rate our show wherever you listen to your podcasts. The wines made from Muscat grapes have often been the protagonists of stories throughout wine civilization. Not least thanks to their common use in public celebrations and religious rites. The origin of the name is a little contentious. Some argue it comes from the Greek Moscos or the Latin Muska linking it to Musk. The precious basic essence of many perfumes that was particularly sought after. This aromatic grape echoes in its aromas. More likely and less romantic, it comes from the Persian indicating simply a generic aromatic sensation. Usually found around the world under a version of the anglophile term muscat. There are more than two hundred varieties covering both white and red grapes that take this moniker and that share the characteristic aromas and flavors. Interestingly, the Muscat grapes are a real family being all genetically related. That would be a lot of guests for a wedding. From a historical point of view, the Muscats and indeed the Malvas are among the grape varieties of which we have the oldest descriptions. The oldest mentions of the name dates back to twelve forty BC in writing from angelicus that talks about wine extracted from muscat grapes. In the middle ages, on the wave of the successive wines made using Marvazia, the Muscat wines also saw a period of great expansion and popularity, especially in central Northern Italy, where they were referred to as Moscato, otherwise known as Moscate blanc or Petigre is most likely of Greek origin and is the most wise spread not only in Italy, but also throughout the Mediterranean to which they are referred to as the Moscatovasti. Moscato is a grape with many pseudonyms It can be found as or to name a few. It is the offspring of Moscato bianco and actually of Greek origin where it is called Eptekilo. It is actually of Egyptian origin and due to its tolerance to heat, it is found not only in the warmer regions of the Mediterranean, but also in the new world, Australia, in particular. It is used in many of these places for the production of sweet wines both from dried grapes and those affected by botrytis. The fungus known as noble rot that gives wines a classic nose of orange marmalade and dried apricots. In Italy, however, particularly in Sicily, There has been a rise in the production and popularity of dry wines from this grape, giving fresh gently aromatic wines that pair perfectly with the sweet sour dishes found here. In general, the muscat grapes are widely used around the world and appreciated for their delicate aromatics as both dry wines or sweet wines made with dried grapes. The most widely planted of them in Italy are as follows. Muscato Biancoq, synonyms, muscat Blaine, muscat, the chambavette, Moscatella, Royal Muscat, Moscato, this is the most widely planted Moscato in Italy and is particularly associated with the ASTy region where it is made into gently sparkling aromatic sweet or medium sweet wines. Synonyms are Moscatalone, gold Moscatala Muscat muscat of Cyprus. This variety is finding its feet, particularly in Vanatos, Elganium Hills. Where it is erroneously referred to as and is being used for several styles of wine, including lightly sparkling sweet and even skin contact orange wines, all of which capitalize on the intense orange blossom aromas. Moscato de Alexandria or Zibbo. It is believed that the Moscato de Alexandria, better known as Zibbo was introduced in Sicily by the Arabs. As the origin of its name might suggest, from Capo Zebib, a Tunisian town opposite Pantaleria. In Pantaleria, it was cultivated in a considerable way only from the early twentieth century. Most examples of this Moscato are found as rich and complex sweet wines although some producers are increasingly beginning to experiment with dry styles. Malvasia. The Malvasia grapes are a tricky bunch. Pun intended. As they are actually a category of several grape varieties that took their name from their presumed place of origin, a place called Monem Vazia in Greece. Monemvasia means port with one entry in Greek, and the name was slowly adapted to the Italian language as Marvasia. Marvasia wine was originally a sweet alcoholic wine made in the class called Greek style, and it was marketed throughout Europe during the late middle ages by the seafaring Republic of Venice. In fact, Marvasia became one of the first international wine brands. Although production of Malvasia wine was initially centered on the nearby island of crete. It was not long before the Venetians began producing Magazia wine even closer to their home territory from local grape varieties that were in turn renamed Malvasia, often with an adjective to indicate place of origin, hence, decambia, dileche, de Casa, etcetera, or quality characteristics numerous copycats followed. Different Marvazilla varieties are grown all around Europe, particularly in Portugal, Spain, Greece, and also Germany and France. Currently, there are nineteen Marvazilla cultivated in Italy and so the brand remains strong. Although, now each one is profoundly different, both in terms of looks and taste. The main Malazia found in Italy are marvasia Bianca de Candia. That's Marvasia, Marvoisier. It is the most cultivated Marvasia both in Italy and around the world. Although it bears the name of the Greek Island of Candia, Today better known as Crete. There is no genetic evidence to support this origin. It is mainly cultivated in Latio and to a lesser extent in Emidia Romagna, Tuscany, and umbria. Marvasia Bianca or Verdana Luvarella Marvasia Marvasia Bianca also plays an important role in central Southern Italian Viticulture. It is cultivated essentially in Pulia, Campania, Calabria, and Sicily. Malvasia Bianca, the variety has been present for a long time in Tuscany and is known as Malvasia Delcanti. It is actually identical to the great variety, Marastina, found in Croatia and the Greek variety Pablo. It is currently found mostly in central Italy, especially Tuscany, In fact, it was part of the original chianti recipe written by Peron Betino Rricastoli. Malvasia Dikandia Romatica. This Malvasia has recently been shown to be a true Italian native. It is mostly found in Emelia with plantings concentrated around parma and regional media with sporadic presence in Otrrepo pavese. There are also small pockets in friuli and Melissa. Or Malvasia Punta. This Malvasia is a spontaneous crossing of Moscow de Alexandria and also making it the sister of Moscat di Hamburg. The name translates to spotted and derives from the characteristic small black spots on the berry. It is mainly cultivated in Latazia. Malvasia. This Malvasia stands out because it is genetically distinct from other Malvasia. Although it shares some characteristics with Malvasia del Lipar and Malvasia Nera, it is mostly present in Marvasia de Lipari, this Marvasia is associated with Sicily's Volcanic Lipari Islands, and has been genetically linked to other prominent Marvasia varieties in Italy. Marvasia de sardinia, A k a Malvasia de Boza, but also abroad, Malvasia Duborbanca, in Croatia, Malvasia de SITquez in Spain, Malvasia, candida, in Madaira, and Marvasia de Laverma in Tenerife. Given that these are all coastal or island areas associated with sea trade, it is not unreasonable to ask the question. Could this perhaps be the original Marvasia? No links to any Greek varieties have yet been found. Italian varieties that are becoming international. As the earlier chapters of this book have demonstrated, most of the international varieties that we find making great wines all over the world originated in France. This is still largely the case when new plantings are being made. However, slowly it feels like there is a changing of the guard in a Italian varieties are beginning to rear their heads in other growing regions. Part of the reason for this is rooted in global warming and the need for winemakers to embrace great varieties that are resilient to heat, drought, and other extreme conditions. Of which Italy has many. Another reason is the growing popularity of Italian wines in the global market where they are beginning to become recognized as giving great value, high quality and a point of difference for consumers. Just as this helped the spread of the Bordeaux grapes in the early history of international grape varieties, it is now aiding Italian varieties. Another aspect that is pointed to in the nineteen ninety nine book Italian wine grape varieties in Australia written by Gary Crittenden, Jim Hardy, Peter Dry, and Alex McKay is the inherent savory nature of the wines produced by Italian grape varieties, and indeed their ability to maintain acidity long after the wines from French grapes have subsided. Thus, making them refreshing and interesting wines even when grown in warmer climates. Adelaide Hills and Claire and King valleys in Australia are using their cooler climates moderated by altitude to focus on grapes such as Saniolo San Jose and Montepulciano that typically thrive in Northern Italy thanks to cooler and longer growing seasons. Whereas, the areas of McLarenvale and Riverdale have tended to be focused on varieties from the south of Italy such as fiano, Alianico, and Nero da hola. The United States has long been a place where grapes have been experimented with and like Australia after the surge of French varieties, smaller winemakers began turning elsewhere for inspiration. Like Australia, the USA has a large Italian population and many winemakers traveled not only to France, but also Italy when starting their careers. As a result, when they returned, it made sense that the next area to branch out into was Italian grape varieties. In some cases, as Dorothy j Gator and John Brecker have highlighted in their writing, winemakers have been replacing the French varieties in their blends with Italian. They point to winemaker Randall Graham, the founder of Bonnie Dune, Vineyard in Santa Cruz, who has traditionally used all grown varieties in his La Sierra Blanc wine. He recently switched to using Vermontino for almost half of the blend. Indeed, Italian varieties have taken so well to areas of California that idle wild wines in Mendo Sino and Jornata in Paso Robles have dedicated their entire production to Italian varieties, including some perhaps less obvious choices such as Arnes. It is not just California that has fallen in love with Italian varieties. Pocket of San Giovanni, even are appearing in the northeast in states such as New York and Pennsylvania. Meanwhile, in the Pacific Northwest where plantes have traditionally been focused on pinot noir. Rowers are turning to grape varieties that are mildew resistant and so Italian varieties such as have survived in the cold and often foggy conditions in Piamante have been the obvious choice. As Kathleen Wilcox commented in one enthusiast, as terroir approached Weate wines become more popular and climate change threatens the status quo. It's exciting to see the rise ofiano from Paso Robles, Terrolego, from Pennsylvania, and Nego Amaro from Guadalala. Perhaps now is the time that as well as promoting all the delicious wines made from the international varieties in Italy, we will be doing the reverse and promoting the Italian varieties that are now found internationally. Verietal spotlight. How do Italian internationals compare? Pino grillo. France Golden pink hewed wines with medium intensity of flower spices pear, stone fruit and some honey. They range from dry to sweet up to forty grams of residual sugar for late harvest wines. They have medium acidity and tend to be medium plus to full bodied, but with no use of oak, MLSF or Lees. New Zealand, Hawkes Bay, or Gisburn. These wines tend to be more lemon than pink in their hue. They have medium plus acidity of flowers, spice, very ripe pear, and sometimes tropical fruit. Most often, they're found in off dry to medium dry styles with medium plus to high acidity to balance them. They have medium plus body, but rarely see use of m l f, Oak or lease. Italy, Venetto adige, lombardia. These lemon pink hued wines have medium intensity of flowers, spice, pear, and also citrus. They are dry with high acidity and are usually light to medium bodied and made in stainless steel or inert vessels. Recently, it is becoming more usual to find that Ramato style which is characterized by a pleasant coppery color due to a period of skin contact ahead of fermentation. Sira, France, Northern Ron. These are dark, deep ruby, even black wines with a violet hue. They have medium plus intensity of dark black fruit, spice, licorice, black pepper, smoke, and leather. They are dry with medium acidity, high tannins, and often utilize French oak. Australia, Barosa, rich, deep purple wines with medium plus intensity. These wines show spice, plum, tobacco, baked jammy fruit, rich black fruit, as well as vanilla, and dark chocolate. They can be both dry and off dry, typically with medium acidity and high tannins. They are full bodied and have seen French or American oak. Italy. Sarah wines in Italy are often a deep purple color with blue hints. They have medium to medium plus intensity with dark cherries and black currant, cassis, black pepper, white chocolate, and toasted aromas. They are dry with medium acidity and high smooth tendons. Typically, they have a full body and a rich fruit finish. Thank you for listening to this episode of the jumbo shrimp guide to Italian wine International Great varieties. The second and newest book in the jumbo shrimp series. We plan to continue bringing you more episodes each Thursday and remember, the candle version of the book will soon be available on Amazon, and the paperback will likewise be available from Positivepress dot net. Also, Ray R Show wherever you tune in, find Italian Wine cast on Facebook and Instagram. Our Twitter handle is at ita wine podcast check out at mama jumbo shrimp on TikTok.