
Ep. 1147 Bernardo & Niccolo Barberani | On The Road Edition With Stevie Kim
On the Road with Stevie Kim
Episode Summary
Content Analysis Key Themes and Main Ideas 1. The history and philosophy of Barbarani winery in Umbria, Italy. 2. The unique characteristics and production methods of Orvieto wines, particularly white wines. 3. The significance of noble rot (Botrytis cinerea) in Orvieto winemaking and its impact on wine profiles. 4. The importance of indigenous grape varieties like Grechetto and Trebbiano Procanico. 5. Sustainable and ethical winemaking practices, including organic and vegan certification. 6. The aging potential and evolution of Italian white wines. 7. The Carcaya sweet wine and its distinct production process and pairing suggestions. Summary In this episode of the Italian Wine Podcast's ""On The Road Edition,"" host Stevie Kim interviews Bernardo and Nicola Barbarani of the Barbarani winery in Orvieto, Umbria. Nicola, the winemaker, and Bernardo, handling commercial and marketing, discuss their historical family company, established in 1961. They emphasize their focus on typical Orvieto wines made from indigenous grapes like Grechetto and Trebbiano Procanico, grown organically. A central theme is their expertise in producing wines with noble rot, a unique microclimatic condition in Orvieto. They conduct a vertical tasting of their Luigi & Giovanna wine (a tribute to their parents), spanning vintages from 2019 to 2012, highlighting the wine's aging potential and evolving aromatic profiles. The discussion also covers their vegan certification and artisanal approach to winemaking. Finally, they introduce Carcaya, their historical noble rot sweet wine, detailing its long harvesting process and pairing versatility. Takeaways * Barbarani is a historic family winery in Orvieto, Umbria, dating back to 1961. * They specialize in Orvieto DOC wines, focusing on indigenous grapes like Grechetto and Trebbiano Procanico. * Their winemaking emphasizes organic farming and noble rot, a unique characteristic of the Orvieto region. * The Luigi & Giovanna wine, a dry white, demonstrates remarkable aging potential (up to 15 years or more). * Barbarani wines are certified organic and vegan, reflecting their commitment to sustainable and ethical practices. * The Carcaya is a traditional Orvieto sweet wine, also made with noble rot, known for its elegance and balance rather than stickiness. * Orvieto wines, even their most important ones, are characterized by drinkability, elegance, and minerality, rather than being heavy or overly alcoholic. Notable Quotes * ""We concentrate on what we really like and what it's very typical of our area. So, very indigenous grapes, and, very organic farming."
About This Episode
The speakers discuss the Italian wine community's annual edition of the forum on wine communication, highlighting the success of their family's wines and the structure and taste of their wines. They taste four vintages of a new wine from Central Italy, describing its characteristics, including its rich minerality and acidity, and discuss the importance of the structure and resistance of the fruit and tour toursm workers in the wine. They also discuss the production and testing of their wines, including organic and certified wines, and the excitement of their boat ride and carcha wines. They emphasize the importance of organic and certified wines for their diversity and taste, and encourage listeners to donate to the Italian wine community.
Transcript
Welcome to the Italian wine podcast. This episode has been brought to you by the wine to wine business forum twenty twenty two. This year, we'll mark the ninth edition of the forum to be held on November seventh and eighth of twenty twenty two in Verona Italy. This year will be an exclusively in person edition. The main theme of the event will be all around wine communication. Tickets are on sale now. So for more information, please visit us at wine to wine dot net. Welcome to another episode of On The Road Edition, hosted by Stevie Kim. Each week, she travels to incredible wine destinations, interviewing some of the Italian wine scene's most interesting personalities, talking about wines, the foods, as well as the incredible travel destinations. Hi. My name is Stevie Kim, and welcome back to Mamma Jambushrem, which is the sister channel of Italian Wine podcast. And today, we are in And specifically, we are with the Barbarani family. And it's the the same name. The winery is called Barbarani. So and we're here to my left. We have Bernardo, and to my right is Nicola. So let me ask Cola, you're the winemaker of the family. Okay. So you are doing the winemaking, and you are basically selling it. Right. All the commercial side and the marketing, which I might say, not may not be the easier job necessarily. Right? Bernardo, can you just give me a overview of how many wines you have? Yeah. So it's, historical company since nineteen sixty one and We concentrate on what we really like and what it's very typical of our area. So, very indigenous grapes, and, very organic farming, beautiful organic farming. We do Orvietta wines so the most What does that mean? Orviet Du wines? It is the most famous white wine of Central Italy. It's a beautiful drinkable white wine, straw yellow color, low alcohol and beautiful drinkability with a nice fruitiness and, very crisp and mineral taste. That's very, very enjoyable. Fresh summer white wine. Okay. So how many how many wines? How many labels do you have? We produce more or less, five labels every year, but then we have some specials and times that we pre really like to, produce. Today, we are, tasting something very special, you know, or Viator is one of the little spots in the world where you can make the beautiful noble rot. Right. And that's because you have the micro climatic situation. We have the the lake. Yes, sir. And then we also have the the wind. We have the sun. We have the fog. We have all the secret ingredients for our noble rot. It's a beautiful mixture, and it's a fantastic balance. You know, the fog, in the morning, the sanction in the evening and the wind that plays very, very well. The fog away makes the perfect condition for the number rock to develop around the grape. So what are what are the grapes that are The grapes are the most typical Grequito and trebiano Prochanico that is a very special variant of the trebiano with a small fruit and much more concentrated and acid. And in particular, when they are together, they really play very well and mix, a game between the apple and the peach. So it's a really, nice taste in your mouth. So it's basically, prochanical. Mainly it's Gareketo to tell you the truth. Can I get to? Yes. What are the percentages? In this wine, Gareketo will be even ninety percent. Okay. Because we need, a little more, a structure, on on the skin of the grape because the rot is very can be very aggressive. So we need a particular, resistant skin of the, the fruit, but also the tourbillono plays a nice role, giving a lot of minerality and acidity to the wine. So is is Breconico considered an aromatic grape variety? They are not considered a doma aromatic, neither, Grequito and Trebiano, but when the number rock develops around it, it gives so much to the wine and, they become very aromatic. So we are now going to taste four vintages Is that correct? Yes. It is correct. We are tasting the corn or the of the same wine. Okay. The current harvest is the two thousand nineteen, and then we are tasting, some seventeen, some fourteen, and some two thousand twelve. So it's a ten years old white wine from Central Italy. The particular thing is that this wine, is a very long lasting. It's beautiful when it's young, but it's even more fascinating when it gets a little older. So let's go through the the this vertical tasting right now. So I'm starting on my right, which is, two The younger. The youngest? Nineteen. Nineteen. Nineteen. Okay. Alright. So tell us who do you wanna tell us a little bit about this one? Yes. The nineteen, it's a beautiful high vest. It was, a vintage that was, very well balanced between the the rain and the and the sun. And the the late harvest of the botrytis was, a little bit late, I would say. So we have we start to harvest the the botrytis wine, during the November. And so, it develops, in a late way, but beautiful way. You see the wine is well balanced. You feel this, beautiful fruitiness in the beginning of your mouth, and then, this, incredible crisp acidity that is, at the end, cleaning your mouth. The wine is, it's very long, but the same time, it's very enjoyable, very drinkable. Our core percentage of all the wines, it's around the twelve point five. So it's not an heavy white wine. It's incredibly elegant, but same time incredibly complex. It's it's it's phenolic as well. Yes. It is. It is. You feel, this beautiful, tropical fruits, these beautiful, spices, in your nose and in your mouth. This is a honey. But same time, you will feel in the other wines that those flavors in time will grow more and more. What kind of vessels are you using with this? Just stainless steel? Is it? No. The wine is fermented in stainless steel. Mhmm. At the end of fermentation, we put the wine in in the in the big bar as twenty eight toy thermostat you saw before. Right. And one seller for one year. And then after that, there is a minimum at least two years of evolution in the bottle. Which is very, very important for those wines. Very important. And how many bottles are you making of this Luigi and Jafana? We are making around fifteen to twenty thousand models per year. You know, sometimes when you drink an important white wine in your mind. You always go to a buttery taste, a very, alcoholic and heavy and strong wine with personality. This area expressed something different. This area express wine that are very drinkable, very enjoyable. So even the most important wine from Barbereani is not that heavy. It's a beautiful elegance, and a really, really nice minerality in your mouth. So let's go on to the, the next Seventeen. Yeah. The seventeen? We have a two years more in the wine. So it's, you will see the, you will feel the developing of different flavors. You have more, spices, more saffron in your nose, more, white pepper. In your mouth, the wine is, has a, a more well organizer structure. You will feel that the, sugar, and the acidity are playing way, way better in a incredible way together. Are you enjoying this podcast? Don't forget to visit our YouTube channel. Mama jumbo shrimp for fascinating videos covering Stevie Kim and her travels across Italy and beyond, meeting winemakers, eating local foods, and taking in the scenery. Now back to the show. Wine is still a very vibrant or very alive, I would say, and the structure is, it's incredible. Really it is. What kind of harvest was this? Two thousand seventeen. Seventeen. That was, more, cold and rainy, western. So, the aromatic side of the wine is getting out. Way more. Usually, when we have some harvest that are, a little bit too rainy for this wine, it's better compared to the other Italian wines. You know, because, the number of rock that will try this, it's, growing, you know, an amazing way with the humidity. And so, you will find out, that in the next one, the fourteen, which is, a famous to be a not very good harvest for us. It was an incredible, really with incredible harvest. Just to, just to clarify, these two vintages, same winemakers. Yes. Okay. And same percentage of grapes? Yes. And same type of Noble Rock. Exactly. Exactly. Which one? Prapers are always, Gerquito and Tribiano. We mix them together. We mix them together. They're both. Yes. Okay. I didn't understand that. Alright. Let's go to the let's go to the fourteen. Yes. And we have a little bit older wine. The color. It's a little bit darker. You know, the name of this wine, it's a dedication to our father and our mother for our fiftieth anniversary of the company, but also there is a little secret because, Luigi represent the Grequito grape, the character. Our father is a very strong Capricorn man from Umbria. Mhmm. And Jovanna represent the five percent late harvest grape that we live in the vineyards. We forget in the vineyards. We wait until the noble rot arrives and we bring Giovanni back to Luigi. So from the marriage of the Noble Rock and the Grequito of Giovanni, it comes a beautiful love story like this wine. Is this wine? The fourteen Is it too drunk now? Is it going to get better? It's a wine that you can drink it now in an amazing way. But it's getting better. You would How many more years can it can it still In our in our experience, minimum fifteen years. So, more. Yes. More seven, eight years more. No problem. I'm going to go to the next one now. Yeah. Okay. And this is two thousand twelve. Okay. So it's ten years old. So many people ask us why there is this salinity in the wine and the secret is underground. When we dig our soil, we find shellfish Mhmm. From million years ago. And the saltiness of the soil, it comes direct in your glass of wine. And it's so beautiful, so enjoyable. So two thousand twelve now really gives you a blast of noble rot. It's really great explosion of a tropical and spiciness together with the fantastic elegance and nice drinkability. So let me ask you a question. Would you consider your wines I know, of course, they're organic. They're certified organic. Natural wine or vegan wine? They are also certified vegan. So they are also to buy vegan. Okay. The company's certified. We don't use any anymore proteins in our wines. Mhmm. Which is very important for us and respectful. I'd say not our wines, there's there's no meaning in that for me. Mhmm. It's just a way to say or to It's very artisanal wine. There are artisan wines. I would say that. Yes. We we produce our wines with our hand. We are in the vineyards every day. We are in the wine cellar, morning and night. Testing our wines and make them develop and drive them in the right way, but, not forcing them, which is very important. We are making the wine with a lot of respect of the nature on the wine itself, and more more important of the people that are drinking our wines. So there's just one little surprise thing, one last thing. Okay. Our boat ride is sweet wine, no baroque sweet. Oh, okay. The It's, a flounder for us. Yes. If you come to Orvieto, you must drink the carcha, try the carcha. Okay. So we'll try the carcha. This is a hundred percent botrytis wine, number rut made again with the Grequito and turgiano broccanico. But the harvest, it's very long for this one. We start harvesting harvest in the grape during October, and sometimes we finish in December. We just pick up the right berries, and then we left the others in the vineyard, then we come back after one week or ten days. So the the production. It's really, really hard to do, but the result, it's incredible because it's a dessert wines as wheat wine, but it's not that sweet. It's not that sticky. It's very elegant. And the the the number rotor preserves the acidity in the in the late harvest grapes. And so you will feel this incredible balance between the acidity, the sugar mess, and the alcohol, which is just around the ten point five. Is this something new you're doing or no? This is an an historical wine I'd say of Uber and, Italy, it's, more than forty years that we are producing the Carcaya. The first harvest was nine nineteen, eighty six. The official first harvest of Carcaya, but my father was It's preventing, noble rot since the seventies here in Northvieto. And the great thing, you know, when you talk about noble rot, you always think about the southern wine. Mhmm. And this is a southern style wine, because it's late harvests, sugar, but also it's a very original and typical wine because it's made with a great kit and Trebiano grape. So there is no aromatic grapes, but a hundred percent never rot taste. Okay. And what do you what do you eat with this, noble rod? Because you can't drink it alone. Right? I mean, you it needs food. You know, it's it's you can drink it alone if you like, but with the food, it gets the best. So what would you how would you pair this? It's fantastic with our, local specialties like truffle and mushrooms. This will be fantastic. But also it's a great combination with fish. Always think about the crustaceus, like lobsters and shrimps, but also spicy food is really fantastic. And even the local food, the typical recipe It's a rabbit gamer. This wild animal, so you can have a very good combination with them. Okay. My mouth is watering. I'm getting hungry. Alright. So that's it. It's a wrap. And hope to see you guys soon in umbria. And here, this town is called Orvieto. Orvieto. Is this officially Orveda? This is no. That's the small town. This small town is Vasqui. It's the in the province of Orbi. Cheers. Cheers with Italian people. We hope you enjoy today's episode brought to you by the wine to wine business forum twenty twenty two. This year, we'll mark the ninth edition of the forum to be held on November seventh and eighth twenty twenty two in verona Italy. Remember tickets are on sale now. So for more information, please visit us at wine to wine dot net. The Italian wine podcast is introducing a new donation drive this month. It's called y m I a fan. We are encouraging anyone who tunes in on a regular basis to send us your ten second video on why you are a fan of our podcast network or a specific show. We will then share your thoughts with the world with the goal of garnering support for our donation drive. 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