
Ep. 1969 Piemonte Travel Series: Chiara Boschis | On The Road With Stevie Kim
On the Road with Stevie Kim
Episode Summary
Content Analysis Key Themes and Main Ideas 1. The winemaking philosophy and practices of Chiara Boschis, focusing on organic viticulture and quality over quantity. 2. Detailed comparison and characteristics of specific Barolo crus: Canubbi and Mosconi, as well as the traditional blended Barolo. 3. The initiative to establish the first organic wine district in Canubbi, Barolo. 4. The role of soil, microclimate, and winemaking techniques in shaping the character of Barolo wines. 5. Generational shifts in winemaking, particularly the new generation's commitment to organic practices and sustainability. 6. Advice and challenges for women entering and succeeding in the male-dominated wine industry. 7. The concept of legacy and diversification of risk in winemaking through blending. Summary In this ""On The Road Edition"" episode of the Italian Wine Podcast, host Stevie Kim interviews Chiara Boschis, affectionately known as ""the Barolo girl,"" at her winery, Chiara Boschis. Chiara discusses her approach to winemaking, focusing on quality over quantity and her commitment to organic production across her six labels, including three distinct Barolos. She elaborates on the unique characteristics of her Barolos from the Canubbi and Mosconi crus, highlighting how soil and microclimate dictate their elegance (Canubbi) and masculinity (Mosconi). A significant part of the conversation revolves around her ambitious project to convert the entire Canubbi district into an organic winegrowing area, with 23 out of 26 producers already on board. Chiara also touches on the value of traditional Barolo blending (assemblage) and reflects on her journey as a woman in the wine industry, offering advice to young women to work hard, follow their dreams, and never give up, emphasizing the promising future driven by the new generation's commitment to sustainability. Takeaways * Chiara Boschis, ""the Barolo girl,"" leads a winery committed to organic viticulture and producing high-quality Barolo wines. * The winery produces six labels, with three Barolos: single-varietal from Kanubbi and Mosconi crus, and a traditional assemblage from six other crus. * Quality is prioritized over quantity, with reduced production to ensure plant health and grape quality. * Chiara Boschis is actively spearheading an initiative to transform Canubbi into the first entirely organic district in the Barolo area. * Canubbi Barolo is characterized by elegance and finesse due to sandy soil and a warm microclimate. * Mosconi Barolo is described as more masculine, with thicker tannins and richer fruit, due to clay-rich soil and a higher altitude. * Traditional Barolo blending (assemblage) is presented as a wise practice that diversifies risk and creates balanced wines. * The new generation of winemakers, especially women, are seen as committed to sustainable and organic practices. * Key advice for aspiring winemakers, particularly women, includes hard work, perseverance, and following one's dreams. Notable Quotes * ""We prefer to renounce to the quantity in favor of the quality."
About This Episode
The speakers discuss the Italian wine industry and the success of their organic farming program. They talk about the importance of organic, low-pressure production techniques and the use of machine to measure the taste. They also discuss the success of their organic farming program and the differences between Kanun and Mosaterere. They emphasize the importance of learning and working hard to achieve success, particularly in the face of challenges in the wine industry. They mention a new installment of On The Road Edition and a video on Italian wine podcasts.
Transcript
The Italian wine podcast is the community driven platform for Italian winegeeks around the world. Support the show by donating at italian wine podcast dot com. Donate five or more Euros, and we'll send you a copy of our latest book, my Italian Great Geek journal. Absolutely free. To get your free copy of my Italian GreatGeek journal, click support us at italian wine podcast dot com, or wherever you get your pods. Welcome to another episode of On The Road Edition, hosted by Stevie Kim. Each week, she travels to incredible wine destinations, interviewing some of the Italian wine scene's most interesting personalities, talking about wines, the foods, as well as the incredible travel destinations. Hello. My name is Stevie Kim, and welcome back Italian wine podcast. We're still on the road with Kiara Boski's the Barola girl. So, Tiara, so we're this is her winery now, and we will be tasting three but oldest from her. But Ketera, how many wines do you make? How many labels have you got? Only six, because, of course, the traditional, the classic wine of the the land of this area. So the cheddar, alba, and Lange and Violo. And, for Barolo because, I have nine different crews. So, we do. We came down to only three. Why? Because the two most different crews are verified in purity. So Kanubia Musconi, and all the other seven crew goes together are, in a in a classic assemblage. So the the third barolo is a homage to the traditional way of making or interpreting the barolo. So the six cruise together, it's a blend and it's Vienna. Right? Yes. And then you have Kanubi and Musconi. Is that correct? Yes. Okay. So how many bottles do you produce? The six labels in total? Well, we have fourteen actors and a half, but we only make sixty thousand bottle. That's a bit less than usual. Right? Yes. Yes. But, you know, first, the fact that we are organic, we never push the production. We also actually normally decrease the production on purpose, to de stress the plant because, you know, if you have to carry more weight. It's more fattigating on the country. If you have less, grape to take to maturation, doesn't matter how the stress of the weather is to dry, to wet, is more easy for the plant to reach the goal. So we prefer to renounce to the quantity in favor of the quality. Okay. So let's taste. Give give us the lesson. How to taste Kiara Boski's Barolo? That will be the lesson for today. We have three wines. What are we tasting for us? The lesson is, coming from the wine itself because for us now it's very easy. We just take it and enjoy. Right. But we are we have the tree two thousand twenty. That is the last vintage that is uh-uh now on the market is a very beautiful and has a very nice drinkability that twenty twenty. So what you can see in this really, you will read the, the terawah where this wine come from. So we start with, the canoubi on our right side. This one. This one, you see the color from the color point of view, the tree wine, they look alike, of course. They have this beautiful granite to it. Very. They're identical. Yes. They are very very similar. Normally, if you really look with the you can see a differences, a little difference. Canopy Norman is a bit lighter. A bit lighter. And and Moscone, he's, a little bit more darker and intense. But is that to different winemaking? No. No. No. The winemaking technique is applied exactly in the same way. The goal is to have three wine that, mirror the the difference of the of the soil. So in order to show these differences, the vilification is made on purpose in the same way. Okay. So you see the Canopy, you will see elegant and more fine because it's typical of the toware of the soil also of this vineyard. And not only the soil, of course, the microclimate, is very particular, very warm, so the vine Very, very steep because I would last time I was here, we went to your Canoebe parcel, and we nearly broke her. Yeah. I know. I know. There were a bunch of us and we were very challenged. Yes. Normally, in our area, the lung here, the we say that the illness are very soft, but there are certain situation in which is hard, and it and kind of is one of that. It's really steep. Keta. Also, you're doing something special in Kanubi. You have kind of a purpose in Kanubi. Tell us a little bit about that. You know, I'm I'm organic, and, of course, I have this dream to try to convince more people, and I started to be the niner of my neighbors to try to convince them. But, the real dream that I had, always, really to to be able to create, the first organic district in the area. And, why not to start with the most glamorous vineyard? And I know that in Canoebe, there are very smart white maker, very open minded, And so that has been, at the end, a little bit easy because everybody pick up right away the option to work together. So now we are doing really a very nice work together. So how many wineries, winemakers, producers are there in Canopy? There are twenty six. So were you how successful have you been in content? Most of the the producers. So out of twenty six, How many have you convinced so Twenty three. Twenty threes. So just three remaining. Who are these three producers? No. We cannot say that. I'm already pushing them like crazy. Okay. So you just have three more. Yes. Okay. So this is quite an ambitious plan of yours to convert the entire district into the organic farming. Right? But the new generation are, of course, they understand that the the urgency of, behaving in a different way and being organic and not, spraying to have carbonic filtering more light. Let's say So it's something that the new generation understand because it's about their future, their life. And so they are worried. And for this reason, they are willing to change the world. Are you enjoying this podcast? Don't forget to visit our YouTube channel, mama jumbo shrimp. For fascinating videos covering Stevie Kim and her travels across Italy and beyond. Meeting winemakers, eating local foods, and taking in the scenery. Now, back to the show. So what is the main difference between Kanubia and Moscone? Well, it's, they are completely different in locations. So Kanubie is, the heart of the heart of the area of the barolo area, and it happened to be in, in the center of the area of barolo, of of the village of barolo, We are on three hundred meters over the level of the sea. The the soil, is very sandy. So the wines are normally super elegant, the tenons are perfectly ripe every year. And so this elegance and finesse is the trade by the style of the vineyard. Then Musconi is completely the opposite. It is really the the other side of the moon. Mont Forte is much higher. We are on four hundred meter, even more on the level of the sea. So there is a different, microclimate. Sometimes maybe it's raining in battle and it's snowing. Yeah. This morning, it was snowing, for example. Different microclimate, the soil, so the temperature, everything. And even the soil, the soil, I was showing you before the phase with the sample of the soil is not sandy. It's more rich in clay. So the shoulder are a little bit more thicker, you know, it's a little bit more masculine as, as a wine, even in the color, a little bit darker. So they are very different, but very much, beautifully different in the same. The same way. So in terms of taste, how can you tell the difference between Canoebe and you said canoebe in terms of Yeah. Visually it's a little bit lighter. Right? But in terms of taste, on your pallet, what are the main differences? Well, as I was saying before, can do be as always, this, very elegance, smoothness, softer. I always say it's like, yes, I always say it's like a classic ballerina on the top of their toes. Okay. Good. It seems so light. Yes. You know, but very strong. All muscles and nerves. So that is the idea. While Musconi has this beautiful fruit. It, hug you with, this lovely consistent and, and material, you know, it's more kind of meteors in a way. So there are two different character but, both are incredible. Can you say it's more generous in terms of fruit? Yes. That's true. And it's more substantial, right? Mhmm. Compared to Canoebe? Absolutely. Okay. And then Yes. Veehan Wawba. And Veehan Wawba? You say the the blending. Yes. You're the master blending this situation. Exactly. So, you know, that my generation was, fanatic on the vinification impurity or the single crew to show this diversity, but The traditional way of making barolo has always been the assemblage, which is actually a very wise way of making the barolo because, you take a little bit of everything, you know, you take the elegance that the vineyard of barolo can leave. You have color or fruit from, maybe the vineyard or Montforte. So every village has a different every soul and every crew has different character. And when you blend it together, is, always, a fantastic result. So the tree wine has a different soul, has a different character, but there are three, beautiful expression of this incredible terroir. So the the blending, the six crews, right? In a way, it gives some continuity because you're diversifying the risk in a way. Also. Right? But at the same time, it's kind of what you have. Right? Yes. Whatever you have. You don't really have a choice. No. Exactly. Right. Exactly. So, it's that there is a duality in this. So with that in mind, which one is more, representative of who you are as a person, as a winemaker, Karaboski's. Oh, yeah. I think that all the tree in a way represent a part of my character. Mhmm. Because well, I would like to be always elegant, like a Canopy, but, I'm not all the time, so elegant. But, I have a sort of sweetness, in a way. Moscone. Yes. So, yeah, Moscone has the character is, impulsive, which I am. So I really recognize this character. And, and the Vienna has the balance that probably I'm reaching now with age, so I'm becoming more wise and calm and more wise in a way. So I have a question for you. So I'm looking at the pictures around the winery, and you had long hair, you know, for the most part, longer than this. And then you when you were part of the Barolo boys, your hair was like short short shirt like a boy. So what what is the story behind that? Yeah. That's exactly what you pointed out. So when I was much younger, I was concentrated in being very competitive with the boys. So even in the look, I was, trying to pretend to be the same. So you had to be, like, you had to fit in somehow. Exactly. That's, which was probably in the sense and a little bit stupid because, you can be, today. The girls are smarter. They can they they are absolutely themselves and but it's true. We are so being going through different situation, you know. So you're already for me. You're already a legend, right? But you don't have children of your own, right? So when you think about your legacy, what are you thinking? What do you want to leave leave behind? Well, to be honest, even if I don't have children myself, some years ago, I asked my brother, my younger brother to join me and to help. Georgio. Georgio. Who was playing with play with the drone. Drone. Yeah. And So he has three wonderful daughters, who are now grown up. One is actually already enrolled, graduated in anology and is working in the one. Beatrice. The one that, with whom I like to do some, experiment every year to keep on the tradition of making, experiment and trying things every year. And she do the her own thing Mhmm. Like the Baroloqueinato Oh, so she's she's making kinato. Yes. So, She's really. How old is she? She's twenty six. So good for her. It's the new last, very fresh, new generation, and they are fantastic. The guy have to say that the younger generation and I can experience especially the girls are really wonderful because they are tough. They are very hard worker and with all their dreams and so. I'm very happy for the future. It's very pink, the future. So before we wrap up, what would you say to the young woman out there who look up to you as a huge inspirational figure in the world of especially Italian wine? What advice do you have for them when they feel like they are just faced with challenges in entering this world, which is still very much you know, dominated by men, at least in the in the upper echelon, right? So what would you say to them? Well, for sure, I would say follow your dream and, work hard So nothing come for free in life. You have to know it very well. And every generation has their challenge. Doesn't mean that, this one are easier than is not, you know, is is not this one easier than the others. Everyone has to face their own challenge. So never give up. Just, scroll your heart over the obstacle and, go for it. Work hard. You will be paid back, absolutely. Okay. Well, that sounds like sound advice, not just for young women, but also for young men out there. So, and with that, it's a wrap coming from Barolo Karaboski's the name official name of the winery ispira E filje. Okay. So Chincin with Italian wine people. Thank you, Gatta, for having us today. Thank you very very much. Tara godsey. Thank you for joining us on another installment of On The Road Edition, posted by Stevie Kim. Join her again next week for more interesting content in the Italian wine scene. You can also find us at Italian wine podcast dot com or wherever you get your pods. You can also check out our YouTube channel, mama jumbo shrimp to watch these interviews and the footage captured of each location.
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