Ep. 704 Albiera Antinori | On The Road Edition

Welcome to another on the road edition hosted by Stevie Kim. She's traveling to Bolgari, the beating heart of wine in Italy. Today, she interviews Albera Antinori, one of the most influential people in the wine industry. Follow Stiti each week as she explores Italy and beyond searching for amazing wine, food, and traditions. And remember, You can always tune in to our YouTube channel, Mama jumbo shrimp to watch these interviews. For more great content, follow us on SoundCloud or wherever you get your pods. Chinching. Hello everybody. My name is Stevie Kim, and welcome to the Italian wine podcast. This is, of course, the, on the road edition. And today, we have a very, very special guest. This woman is a super powerhouse, and, of course, it Tai wine, but she is also the president of Consolcio of Bolgari and Susikaya. So this is the reason why I'm here today because this on the road edition will be focusing on Bolgari. So I'm very, very cited. Hello, Steven. Hello, everybody. Hi, hi. So thank you so much for doing this. I know you're so busy. I tried getting hold of you so many times, but we weren't able to do that. And so so grateful to have you on the show today. So congratulations. Thank you. And because you have become the president of the consortium. The name is DOC. One of the longest DOC names, you know, we have, of course. And I love it because, you know, you have two also vice presidents who are women. Oh, yes. Well, I think it's the first time really that in a in a consortium We have president and two vice presidents that are women. I think this is also part of what what Bulgaria is. It's, a relatively new operation. It's a very dynamic operation. And, this is why at this point is a bit of warm and power, extra warm. Yes. I love it. Girl power. I love it. So for our audience who are less familiar with Boergere, would you mind giving us a little bit about the facts and figures where it's located, how many produces there? Just give us a little small overview. So we are talking about two consortium. One is burglary and one is burglary. There are one inside the other one, but there are two different, entities. Let's say, bulgar is located in a little town, located in the south of Lerorno on the Iranian, on the Iranian coast. It is a very small operation because it's about one thousand three hundred and fifty hectares of vineyard. We are sixty five producers So it's very small and it's relatively new. When did it all start? It started twenty five years ago officially, but the first, owner winemaker that, started wine was marinciaga we've done since psychiatry about fifty years ago. He was the first one who planted. He had there was practically no vineyards in the area. It was an agricultural land, but not really dedicated for quality vineyards. So he started and gave the start. It made everybody realize that this area was really special, especially for varieties, cabernet, souvenir, merlot, and cabernet francs. So since then, there's been a strong movement of, other wineries and, slowly emerging as the top Italian wines, if you look at the lyrics, we have three in the first ten that are coming from. I know that's amazing. Which is quite quite incredible. I must say that this is a mixture. Basically, there is a really special teruar, the soil and the climate, the influence of the sea, the mountains behind, really make it unique. And then there is the spirit of the producers. Before there were few now there are more, but we're all very dedicated to quality production. So the direction is clear. It is centered. There is a lot of experimentation going on. But I think this is what really makes you need. So can you tell us a little bit about the special terroir that there is in Bulgaria that you were talking about? And the, quote unquote, the experimental winemaking? So it would be it would be easier if everybody was here and I could show one. I mean, there's like an amphitheater of mountain that overlook the sea. So this makes the climate here in particular because, at night, there is breeze that comes from, the sea, which mitigates either the heat or the coolness. Then that are, towards the sea, obviously, more sandy soil and that become more, l, limey, more intense towards the hills. This is where the parts in the middle is where the grape wines are produced. We are seeing more and more also now, Venus's, a little bit higher in the hills. This is probably due also to, climatic condition and climatic changes. That here, we really haven't felt in reasonable terms, but this is what the the terrarium gives you. It gives you a variety. You can have younger and fresher wines towards the sea, and more and more you go most of the mountains, the more complex they they are. So, you know, first of all, how big is the Bulgaria area in terms of wine production? It is about, as I said, one thousand three hundred and fifty hectares of vineyard. Actually, the area with which it's thirteen kilometers long, elation, and five kilometers wide. So it's very small. Yeah. It's very tiny. Could you possibly break down for the wine gigs, you know, because, you know, we have a lot of the wine students that follow our podcast. Could you break down the kind of the the great varieties in terms of planting and percentage within these vineyards? It's mostly, you know, quote unquote the board delays blend. Right? Yes. It's most I mean, the most, very planted is, carbonet sauvignon, then there is merlot. The emerging variety is carbonet from. There is a bit of syrup, and then there are the grapes, the the white grapes. There's a bit of Stavignon. There's a bit of, Vermentino. But the vineyards dedicated to the production of Bougary Superiore account for about, the twenty percent of the total population. The total population produces about six and a half million bottles. So it's relatively small. So, you know, there's something very particular. I would say a little bit going against the current in terms of trends is that, the doc in, boy get in Sashicaya, there's kind of no rules in a way. Right? It's very flexible in terms of the they call the wine laws here in Italian Desupinata. Right? So can you tell us a little bit about what exactly the Desupinata dictase in terms of the blending? The blending is, I mean, it's not that there's no rules, but the it doesn't give too many specific rules on the percentage because the idea behind this was in the years to enhance the impact that has. So you can have a hundred percent one single variety that can compose, but you can have also the blend between them. And this is this is why there was not a tradition, that said the variety, the principle local variety had to be that. And this is what gives actually also a relatively free spirit of experimenting. So whoever the producer is, he likes his wines or things that thinks that his uh-uh vineyards are more suited for some varieties or some others. He is fitted with obviously in strict rules in terms of quantity, in terms of aging. So this is the way it was chosen to do, and I think it has proven very positive also because, you see the results. And you see new wines coming up, new quality wines coming up. And then at the end, when you taste them altogether, you can always recognize this the silkiness of the wines from Boulder the structure, but at the same time, the elegant and fruitiness the Mediterranean aromas. So it does overcome all of this. So, you know, one thing I've noticed is the the logo of the consortiums. Right? The the consortium. I don't know if it was an undertaking from the new, let's say, the the management of the, consortium or it was a project that was before in terms of the changing of the logo. There was recently there was a small change of the logo. Right? It was a slight redesign. The Cypruses were always in the logo. The Cypruses took they take, they they are taking example of the alley of Cyprus trees in, that takes to Bolgory that drives to Bolgary, so it was just a redesign. So if it's symbol, it's just the the the reality of Nebraska is the symbol of the operation. So talking about Cymbals, of course, this evening, there's this big dinner of celebration in the main row would you like to tell us a little bit about this event how it became about? Well, the the dinner is the the conclusion of a whole day of tastings. So that's the that's the fun part. But during the whole day today, we had the the first time that we introduced, Oprima, the vintage two thousand nineteen that is going to come out as of January two thousand and twenty two, which is very important because, never before there was an oprymer of all the producers of Bolgari of the Bolgari supere order. During the day, the people could, taste the, the Bolgari's two thousand and twenty, that it bothered it also, that have just come out. We organized this fun tasting in seven seven wineries and, that hosted all the other producers, which is really nice and shows what the spirit of this, of this area of this affiliation is is a spirit of friendship of hard work. So, everybody gives the occasion also to smaller producers to present their wines. After this long day of tastings, because they started from ten o'clock and then we'll finish at five. We will have, the dinner on the on the Viallet in which we are keeping our eyes on the weather because, there is always, in this period of time, a bit of a bit of rain that's the wind is really needed, but in in this evening, we've got rain. Well, just a just a sliver of rain would be fine. Right? Exactly. And, it's going to be one long table along this alley. How many people will be participating at the dinner? We are going to be just under a thousand. Oh my goodness. Yes. That's going to be beautiful in one long I can't wait. I know the wines to be tasted. Mhmm. So the the the dinner is organized in a way that all the wineries have invited their guests and then there is two day two parts that are the guests of the consortium and all the wines of the producers will be you will be able to to taste. So there's going to be a lot of wine. Well, I I can wait for that. I would like to ask you, has the harvest started in Bulgaria? We have started picking a few things. What what have you started? We've had The white grapes for Rosay grapes. We've started with the Rosay grapes and some people have started picking their merlot this summer has been quite a hot one. Mhmm. Although he hasn't created the any particular problems, but, so some little, but it's just small things. The real, it's going to be starting next week. Right. This is why we did the dinner, and the event and the tasting just a few days before. Right. Everybody would be free to concentrate. On the harvest. What they should be? So and how long does the harvest will continue? When will it end? Do you think this year? This will will depend. I think, three weeks, it me should be over. I mean, the epics is going to be in the next couple of weeks. And in general, if you compare this year's harvest, I know it's it's maybe difficult premature to, give kind of a judgment, but what how does it compare to lost years, for example? What is your expectation? Well, if the question is, is it going to be a great vintage? Yes. I think I think I kinda round about way. Yeah. I think, the, the chances are that is going to be a great vintage. But as a Viticulture, I can never say that's until all the grapes are in the cellar. The chances are there is a great vintage. Right. Until it's finished and done, and every maladaptive fermentation has started. Vineyard, the vineyard owners don't really wanna talk about that. You're right. Right. Right. A taboo. Yeah. Yeah. Exactly. So talking of, you know, challenges, what are the main challenges for Bollgetti producers? I know that's a gross generalization. It depends on the equinerase, but what are the challenges for Bollgetti producers in general? I think the challenges are the challenges of great affiliations to produce better and better wines every year to experiment to see if there's new things. This is an area in which we still have a lot to discover. The average age of the Venus is fifteen years old. So there is still new things to be done, varieties, areas, viticulture wise to be experimented, but the concept has to be that quality, quality, quality along. And introducing people to the area because it's known, but still, there is a lot of work to do. So I wanna ask you kind of, cheeky, maybe personal question. So, you know, of course, you have this big role as, you know, representing not just Italian wine, but women in wine. Alright? So for the younger generation who aspires to become not Iberian itinerary, but someone who aspires to become some especially a young woman who aspires to become, you know, do something important, contribute in a significant way in the wine industry. What what are your suggestions. What is your advice if you can give? You know, just kind of an inspirational advice too, especially the young woman out there. I think that the first thing goes through studying studying and, you know, going to good universe is taking, stashed, inconvenience, harvesting, understanding, land, and understanding wine. There is a real need of people that have an experience in a, let's say, a curriculum is important. And this is something that the new generation has the chance to do. Our generation will not really push to study a lot next generation they have to do and they have to be a top on the top of all the new experimentation, the new studies. Then in general, to any kind of, of of younger, starting to work, probably the most important thing is the curiosity The curiosity leads you to always look for something new and for something better. And then just to prepare to be hardworking people. And what about, your children? How many children have you got? I have two children aged twenty eight and twenty six. Boy and a girl. Boy and a girl, they are both, they both had the experiences outside of Italy in the wine, in the wine world. They were one is more in the, marketing side, one is more in the agricultural side, which is agriculture and acknowledges. They've just started, well, the the boy has started, a year and a half ago, the girl a few months ago, they're on board, and, it looks like they're enjoying it. And the children of my sister are living. Right. Also do, they are interested in the in the business. So it's going to be a fun a fun team in a few years. So, you know, you know, of course, your motto is winemaking for twenty six generations. Everyone knows that. Right? So it's seeing it sounds like the twenty seventh generation is a is guaranteed already. You never say it's like you never say it's like harvest. Might be more than the and change the mind, but the chances are there. For us, it's very important that generations after. I mean, it is just as important as making great wines is to have the generation after. That at least one or two or three or even more, all of them enjoy. There's lots of things to do and, this really it's really such a special world as well. The wine that you you cannot not like it. So what is your, you know, you have two woman presidents? Of course, you have and yourself at the top of the management of these consortium right now. What is your when is your mandate until? Like two thousand till next year, I think? I still have either one more or two more years. Okay. Within these one or two years, what what are the milestones. What are the objectives you've set for yourself? So one of the main objective is to, anyway, explain, promote, and promote the quality of the wines of Bulgary, because as I said, Bolgary is well known. But there is still a lot to do. Another milestone is to stimulate among all the producers, smaller, and, and bigger, to experiment, to check, other things, other areas, other wines, And then there is a whole theme that we are working on, and I think we are seeing, the way we are to work, to work on, together with, the government and is to have a sustainable certification that is national, and in which the consortium as a consortium can apply. We are trying to see exactly how to go and at school, but this is for sure an important, an important point. Okay. So I think, you know, that is, pretty much most of the things that I would like to have asked you for today and with regards to the consortium. Hopefully, we'll have another opportunity to interview you with, you know, of course, a b even a bigger animal, if you will, of antonori business. Okay. And I'm really, really looking forward to having someone with you this evening. Very good. Very good. Thanks a lot and thanks to everybody. And that's a wrap from Bolgari. We're currently at It's an. Just overlooking this vineyard. So stay tuned. We'll be coming with a lot of video and photos from with Italian people. Kirtel. Listen to the Italian wine podcast wherever you get your podcasts. We're on SoundCloud, Apple Podcasts, Spotify, email IFM and more. Don't forget to subscribe and rate the show. If you enjoy listening, please consider donating through Italian wine podcast dot com. Any amount helps cover equipment, production, and publication costs. Until next time.