Ep. 382 Sangiovese Lambrusco... | One Empire Two Ways of Wine

Welcome to the Italian wine podcast. My name is Joy Livingston, and for the next several weeks, I will be bringing you some choice narrated content from the book San Jose, Lambrusco, and other vine stories written by Mr. Science himself, Professor Atiyoshenza, and Serena Eimazio. Published by positive press dot net. To get a copy of the book, the Kindle version is available on Amazon and hardcover copies are available from positive press. If you like the content we share each week, consider donating to our show. Find details at italian wine podcast dot com or on our social media channels. Sit back and get your geek on as we jump into the details stories and science of Italian wines and vines. One empire, two ways of understanding wine. The agriculture economy and in particular, the Roman wine based economy was founded on slaves and was oriented towards producing surplus quantities destined for long distance trade. In the case of wine, this production reached the great cities of the empire and was characterized by three quality models, expressions of the places or the vine was cultivated. In provence where Viticulture had been brought by the Phoenician Greeks four or five centuries before Christ, the wines produced reflected the Greek model. They were alcoholic, sweet, and had a long shelf life. Even on the banks of the Rhine, only the alberello forms of cultivation allowed the ripening of grapes in climatically unfavorable environments while in the other territories of Gaul where there was less of a slave presence and the production of wine had to meet the growing needs of the Christian religion. The vines were grown on trees in the Celtic and etruscan fashion. The wines were intended for a less demanding consumer and were a complement to the farmer's poor diet. In this respect, the idea of New World Viticulture seems to be the historical nemesis of Imperial Roman Viticulture, with the production of base wines, often from Italian vines, In the warmer regions of California, destined for a popular market. While the so called premium wines north of San Francisco Bay were produced using French varieties and winemaking technology destined for more competent consumers. The wine produced in the Rhine regions and along the Danube was therefore intended for personal consumption, legionnaires, and a small local trade. It was a Viticulture and inology that developed in a very different way to that of present Southern France that also exported wine to Imperial Italy to the disappointment of the Italian producers. They were able to create a band of social and economic relationships that enhanced the quality of the wine leading it to identify with the most suitable production areas. In this way, the premises were laid for qualitative hierarchy linked to the soil and climate characteristics of the vineyard. Which would later be the basis of French Viticulture in Burgundy and German Viticulture of the Rhine and Mosel. The mired wine. The story we want to tell in this chapter tells of the one consumed not by the clergy and the Roman nobility, which we have often heard about, but that consumed by the legions located along the eastern borders of the empire. Knowledge and necessity are the two driving forces of innovation. We find both of these characteristics at the base of vine cultivation practices that came about thanks to the collaboration between the Romans and the local populations. The lands of Gaul are plowed by the oxen of the barbarians. The yoked captives generously offer their necks to our farmers. The flocks of different peoples grazed to feed us. The barns are full of barbarian wheat. Their horses breed with our own. This is what the Emperor Provo wrote disclosing his open minded attitude concerning the vanquished peoples. Marcus Aurelius Probo, one of the so called Elerian emperors. Not of noble birth, they reached the highest ranks of the army and therefore of the imperial hierarchy, distinguishing themselves mainly on the battlefield and enjoying the trust and support of their legions constituted above all by mercenaries. He found himself governing in a period of decadence during which he devoted much of his energy to dealing with the many critical situations that arose, including those of the agricultural sector. In ninety two AD, Domino had promulgated a protectionist edict that sanctioned the prohibition of wine production outside of Italy. This edict was to protect domestic production above all in Compania. The effects of this decree were felt for the next two centuries. Provo opposed it in the third century AD with a counter reformation that led to the creation of new vineyards in the provinces, especially in Gaul, Penonia, and Britney, but also in the aquitaine Burgundy and the loire. Viticulture began to take off massively, particularly on the banks of the mosel and the Rhine, where it supplied the numerous Legionaries defending the borders. Most of the wine intended for consumption by the legions came from Veneti. The eastern region of the Cizalpine gaul. This wine was generally less valuable than the one intended for clergy and nobles. It was obtained by blending wines of modest quality from the marshy areas of the lower Venetian plain, with the alcoholic wines of Istria and the colored wines of Picchino. The task of selling the wine was entrusted to the native etruscan merchants who sold it through the port of Aquilea, one of the busiest in that time. Burrows containing this wine were transported on Wagons to the town presently known as Magdalensbeck in Carinthia. And from there, they were placed on the danube in order to reach the Roman legions. When the empire began to weaken, there was also a lack of maintenance on the networks of streams and rivers. These waters often crossed the plains of friuli and Veneto. In an impetuous way, flooding the land intended for vineyards. Gradually turning these areas into swampland. To repair the damage, reclamation were carried out and drainage channels built. Oddly enough, these were built using disused wine and fluoride as the m four I were disposable and never reused once emptied of wine. But the results were far from what was expected in these areas that had once been planted with vines were gradually abandoned. At that time, winemaking practices and vineyard care was not particularly developed and the most important cost associated with wine production and trade was transport. Taking these transport costs into consideration, they came up with an alternative solution to their problem. Rather than just accepting the abandonment of marshy land, they moved the production areas directly to the areas of consumption. This also entailed the transfer of vine growing and winemaking skills from Rome and Mediterranean Gaul. This process took place through the emigration and vine growers and woodworkers. Who were entrusted with the task of preparing the presses and building the barrels as since transport of the wine would be by land, the amforite were no longer usable. However, a problem immediately arose The most famous varieties of Agar Campanos, the wines that had contributed to the fame of Roman wines throughout the known world, such as Valerno and Amine were not suitable for cold climates and the foggy, Daniel planes. And since a cold climate phase had just begun, their transport now seemed even more unreasonable. It was only by chance that the legion's most faithful to Provo who were asked to rebuild the Viticulture of the Lemus I e, the territories on the borders of the empire were located in Panonia, the soft belly of the Roman defenses who guarded against invasions. This is the region where one could find productive vines resistant to the cold. There were many nameless varieties that had been brought along the banks of the Rhine and the Danube to be cultivated together with the wild vines. These had been subjected to the processes of proto domestication for a long time and had given the local population's wine, although of modest quality. These varieties are now known by the name Hoynish or Hunish Hans. Because they come from the territories once inhabited by these people. Among these varieties Guiller Blaine stands out Avine originally from Dalmatia. Thank you for listening to this week's installment of San Jose Lamrosco and other vine stories. We hope you expanded your horizons and gave your brain cells an Italian wine workout. We'll see you again next Thursday and remember. The kindle version of the book is available on Amazon and hard cover copies are available from positive press dot net. If you feel inspired to make a donation to our show, please visit us at the Italian wine podcast dot com. Find Italian wine podcast on Facebook and Instagram. Our Twitter handle is at Ita Wine podcast.