Ep. 2142 Jessica Dupuy interviews Alisha Blackwell-Calvert | TexSom 2024

I think the thing that really sparked my interest after I started diving a little deeper is that wine is the study of all of my favorite sciences. So besides the question science, I'm a biology nerd. I love chemistry, geography. I love geology. All of my favorite things are in one bottle of wine. Yeah. So once I learned that I could continue on studying all of my favorite sciences and also have a really nice beverage Yeah. And talk about it. I couldn't even back. That was it. Tally y'all. I'm Jessica Dupui, guest host for a special Texom series covering the twenty twenty four Texom wine Conference from Dallas, Texas. Join me in the heart of the Lone Star State as we delve into the experiences and insights of key speakers and attendees, exploring career paths, challenges, and the latest trends in the wine industry. If you enjoy the show, please subscribe and rate our show wherever you get your podcasts. Well, welcome to the Italian wine podcast, Alicia. I am so glad to have you here on yet another occasion of tech Som. I'm so happy to be here, Jessica. One of my favorite things about techsom, it feels like a family reunion. Yes. We get to see each other twice a year. Yeah. So it's really great to be here. I know. Yeah. It really is great. I feel like we've known each other for a few years now. And A lot of that has to do with Texam. I mean, I've heard about you before, but what's great about this is that people, like, I've never been to Saint Louis, which is where you're from. Yes. But I feel like we always have a this commonality between us. So it's the case for so many people that come to this. But let's get a little bit of a background on you. So give us your full name, where you're from, and what you do in the wine industry. Sure. So my name is Alicia Blackville Calvert. I am a brand new forty year old. From Saint Louis, Missouri. Happy birthday. Thank you. It was a couple months ago, but still feels new. Yeah. Grew up in Webster Grove with my family. In our family, we didn't have a lot of wine or alcohol in the house. So this whole journey was just kind of a path on its own, but I grew up wanting to be a veterinarian and work with horses. So in college, I pursued that I got my western studying horses and equestrian science in college at William Woods University, came back home after a little financial aid snafu, started waiting tables like a lot of, you know, people with that aid teenagers in early twenties, and just got into restaurants that way. And between restaurants and doing my other profession, which is professional horse and carriage driver, I just kind of gave my own way. Horse and carriage driver. I feel like we need to have a whole separate episode just on that because that sounds So fun was it like in the city or was it in the country? Yeah. In, Saint Louis City. So Saint Louis is where the Missouri River and the Mississippi River meet. Okay. So we would drive horse carriages up and down the Mississippi River right in front of the Gateway arch. I'm just giving tourists and levers and families rides, special occasions and things like that. Oh my gosh. I love that. You can drive one horse at a time up to four horses. So I can drive a team. Wow. Oh my god. Okay. So, yeah, it's a totally separate episode. But so tell me so you're still in Saint Louis. That's where that whole area is where you grew up, and I just wanna, like, give a shout out to the Saint Louis Somalier community because I feel like there have been so many people that have come from Saint Louis to Som that kind of started out like in the sommer camp, I guess, you know, doing the the kind of background scenes. But what are some of the other Psalms that kind of introduced you to Texom? Sure. So I was inspired by the songs before me, like Matt Dully and Andre Eivenoff and Keith Harrick. And those guy, oh, Patrick Patrick. Patrick Golds. Patrick Golds, Brandon Kern, like, guys that went to TechSom before I did. Right. And I would see all of these photos of them working hard all suited and pinned up, but amazing wines and just all of this behind the scenes and you know, watching them to can't bottles. I'm like, what is Texom? What are they doing? Yeah. And how come I'm not fair? Hell, why wasn't I invited? Why was I not invited? Yeah. I mean, at this time in my life, I just got back into restaurants. I took a break, which we can talk a little bit later Yeah. From, wine distribution, back into restaurants. And getting back into restaurants is when I got the introduction to Tech Somm and all of its awesomeness in the reward of education and kind of bettering yourself while you live for that. So Yeah. Yeah. It's kind of great for for tapping into a community of people. So so yeah. Tell me about your background. So you we we're gonna move on from the horse carriage thing, although that's really pretty cool. Restaurants, but how did wine become a focus for you? So when I first started waiting tables, I think one of the things I liked about that job was getting to talk to people but also introducing wine into the conversation. So it was that moment when the guest would say, okay, this is what I'm ordering. What wine should I drink? Like, oh, what wine should you drink? So that's a great question. Yeah. You know, as a teenager, twenty something, you don't know the answer to that. So luckily, we had a sommelier at the restaurant I was working at Oceana Bistro that every Friday and Saturday, she would open something up. So we had you know, in house education, but I wanted to know more. Like, why do people ask about wine? Why is it important? Why should a specific wine be paired with a certain dish? What are people looking for? So my journey with wine is that why and why wine works with food, why people are lured to wine and what, you know, I didn't drink wine growing up. So Yeah. What is wine about? Right. So I think the thing that really sparked my interest after I started diving a little deeper is that wine is the study of all of my favorite sciences. So besides a question science, I'm a biology nerd. I love chemistry. Geography. I love geology. All of my favorite things are in one bottle of wine. Yeah. So once I learned that I could continue on studying all of my favorite sciences and also have a really nice beverage Yeah. And talk about it. I could be resolved. That was it. That's super cool. And you're right. I mean, plus I mean, so I for myself, I've major props for actually loving the sciences. I struggle with science, but it's funny because I feel like the other side of that is, like, I was history and politics, I mean, what I studied, and there's that same degree of it in a bottle of wine as well. And I feel like that's the kind of thing, actually, Matt Dully, to refer to another Saint Louis Psalm. He talked about how it the perfect profession for someone who has ADHD who's interested in everything and just can't focus on one thing because wine really does cover so much of it. So now, I mean, like, fast forward, you have just recently helped open a new Italian restaurant. Is this correct? Yes. So Modrina in Saint Louis is about nine months old now. Okay. It'll be opened on Black Friday of twenty twenty three. Wow. So we're approaching our first year. Okay. But She still feels like a baby. So the two owners of Madrina, Frank Romano, and Stanley Brown, two people in the St. Louis community that I looked up towards when I was just a budding sommelier, two gentlemen that already had plenty of experience when I first started. As they were getting the restaurant together, they reached out and first asking me if I knew anyone that could help them because I was at four seasons at this time as part of the Sommelier team with Anthony Gary and Phil of Lisa. But I wasn't looking to move, but when I heard more about the project, I'm like, this is this is really cool. I feel like maybe you could talk to me. Maybe you could right. Like, this is something I would wanna do. Yeah. And this kind of ties into why I'm here But Modrina itself is the Italian word for godmother. Oh. So the restaurant is a nod to Frank Romano's Madrina, his godmother. Okay. My sister Helen Nagry, but the restaurant is a nod to her and her Italian background. And mister Romano, he grew up working in a famous restaurant in St. Louis called Kemals, which is also Italian. There's so many Italian ties. Yeah. To this restaurant, which is so important that my background is also an Italian Okay. To that later. Oh, I totally do that. Yeah. But, the restaurant is a nod to the nineteen fifties with Italian American heritage. Okay. Still using farm to table like techniques. Okay. We're doing very well, and I'm so proud of what we're accomplishing so far. Yeah. That's super cool. So you mentioned. So you were at the four seasons prior to that, which, you know, they're known as a hotel group, and the restaurants within for having such a great program for hospitality and education. And it's I mean, I know so many people that have worked with four seasons over their careers that have really kind of solidified a foundation within within wine hospitality. But it's it's established. They exist. Right? They already have something. So I'm curious kind of what it felt like to jump into a project that was fresh and brand new that you're kind of starting from the ground up in terms of the wine program. Yeah. Right. I mean, you're absolutely right. Like, in four seasons, mean, corporate. So there's already a core list and, you know, there's a song team that adds to it, but going from something that's so structured to kind of going out on my own and creating something new and building my own policies and my own systems from scratch. I've never done that before. Yeah. This is my first first restaurant. So so I've never opened a restaurant before like this. So when you approached it, so obviously Italian heritage me a little bit about the wine list. Like, when you built it, is it all Italian, or is it mainly, but plus some things, or how did you Right. So Stanley Brown owner, certified Sommelier, his restaurant called robust is a wine bar. And He wanted Modrina to be a little like what he does. Just two blocks down the street Okay. In Webster Grove. So robust has this very user friendly style of selling wine, okay, and wine bar. It's called the robust factor. Everything's kind of labeled. Very easy. If you like full body wine, it's just really easy to find things. Yeah. So he wanted to have that user friendly concept at Madrid as well. Okay. So it was his idea to pair an Italian wine next to a domestic wine side by side as you're looking at the menu, if you're familiar with this particular RNA, the one next to it will be something very similar in style. So if you're not used to whatever this grape is, right, Right. You might have an idea. So it's an opportunity for discovery. If someone comes in who's, like, in love with the same wine that they buy at the at the grocery store or whatever every day, they're gonna discover potentially something completely new that's an Italian native or Exactly. Yeah. So it's what's called our due a pairings. Okay. So all of the domestic wines have an Italian counterpart just to kinda give you an idea with that varietal. Okay. Very cool. And then you have something special on there too, like Alicia's picks or yeah. So They only wanted domestic and Italian wine Okay. For the entire wine list. Okay. And it's about a hundred hundred fifteen skews, which is fine, but knowing me, I can board a little easy if Not that there's any there's plenty to discover. Right. Twenty in the US. Twenty. There are a few things from around the world that aren't domestic. Yeah. Gauritelian that can put on the wine list. Yeah. Something that rotates. I can just have a few things to play with. Is it okay? Okay. Perfect. And so that's an opportunity for me to kind of round out the list with maybe, like, something oaky and buttery that isn't from Mhmm. The US maybe something French or I just got back from Slovenia. So I added Moevia's Rivagiella. Beautiful wine. I've added wines from Portugal and Spain, like, places where I've been that I have respect for or producers that are classic, that don't have a spot. Right. That's a way for me to rotate really cool things in a kind of round out, though, the list itself. So it's just another another point for guests to be able to discover something new too. And, I mean, are you obviously, it's your list. And I assume you're on the floor quite a bit, but you also are training a staff that understands what you're doing. Right. Right. I'm on the floor five days a week. So I like to serve. Yeah. And so I serve five days a week. Okay. When we first opened, I was just the act of Salier, summing every day until I could feel the servers really got their feet together. Then I could introduce myself serving to the floor. And I think that was a really great tactic just giving this the serving staff some support in selling wine and, kind of introducing the wine list to guests. So, I mean, it's Italian wine can be intimidating. Yeah. So I'm very comfortable talking about Italian wine. My first real job in the wine business was a wine sales rep Okay. For a Yoni Atlantic imports, which is an Italian wine importer in Saint Louis. Now called Grafted, but it's ninety percent Italian. Okay. So you got So my first job in the business was Italian wine. Mhmm. I had to learn from scratch what Italian One was these varietals, how to pronounce them, and then sell them people who knew a lot more than I did in the St. Louis market. Interesting. So I like that something that some people find intimidating like in Italian wine. That was my first step I got the hard part out of the way and everything else just became easy. Yeah. So if you can master well, not master. But if you can tackle Italian wine and kind of get over some of that, that hesitation that you might have, it's Right. So much easier. Well, it helps to have someone kind of create that roadmap for you, especially if you're new to a region or a country of wine. And so for you to be able to do that in an approachable way that doesn't feel intimidating, I mean, that's that's the whole reason we do what we do. Right? Right. Yeah. Yeah. It's it's supposed to be easy. I mean, I love that my Savenio Blanc from Columbia Valley is right next to Everdicchio. Yeah. Yes. So just, okay, recognize this. I can recognize that, you know, and enjoy that flavor profile. But all the way down, it's such a challenge to pair wines together in that way and try to find a specific wines counterpart. I would have never thought to build a list like that. Right. But now that I have it under my grasp, and the list is a hundred percent mine, I choose every bottle on that list, and I'm so very proud of everything I've chosen. And I stand by my work. I was really proud of it. I got my first wine spectator award as a solo artist. In the first nine months. In the first nine months. Okay. Congratulations. Thank you. Yeah. So I feel really confident in what we're putting together and, the experience that we're giving. That's a great. But, yeah, I think my love for not only wine, but Italian wine shows when I look at that list. Yeah. I'm just really proud of my work. So you mentioned already, like, a couple of different trips that you've been on recently. And I wonder how that helps in form your job. Right? Like, so somewhere you went very recently was a brusso. Yes. Tell me about that experience and kind of what you brought back in terms of what you were excited about to be able to maybe bring into the Medrina family. Right. Even if you are familiar with Italian wine, I still think that there are regions that are overlooked. If you look at any Italian list, Tuscany, Piedmont, maybe some Veneto, Sicily, but When it comes to, Brudso or the market, I think those tend to get left out for more recognizable regions. So I think I too kind of fell into that trap. I'm like, wow, I'm gonna go to a brusso. I haven't been. I think I know what the wines are like, but I really don't know. Right. So it was very eye opening to go into the region and meet the people behind some of the wines that I recognize already, like I know. Valentino. Thank you. Valentino. It's like, I've heard of Valentino wine before, but I wouldn't think I can you weren't sure why or what the context or why. Yeah. So I think one of my favorite moments of Abruzzo was being in the Valentino's living room, tasting Trebiano from the early two thousands and how that wine is progressing and then learning about how they treat their mom to Polgiano, the rootso, and it's really an eye opening experience to see something kind of a unicorn wine, if you will, and tasting it in someone's living room. Yeah. And that region is really, really. Beautiful. Yeah. Very beautiful. Yeah. I've personally not spent much time in Abrutso, but I think that's the thing is is understanding, you know, like you said, like Trebana, which I think on the onset, a lot of don't think of it as an ageable white wine. Right? But to be able to taste one that has the legs in the foundation to be able to do that, like you said, in someone's living room, I feel like the travel part of what we do really does bring a lot of context to people that have maybe have never been, but you can kind of sort of transport them not only by pouring it into the glass, but then by telling them these stories and telling them these experiences. Right. And I think another thing that's kind of fall into a trap, like a region like a brood sow, if you look what's in the St. Louis market, for instance. Yeah. Like the wines that I'm seeing are inexpensive value wines, you know, like under twenty dollars. So that's my idea of, let's say, multiple geano de bruceau. Right? Like, inexpensive fun, but When you taste, you know, really serious Yeah. Thoughtful wines. Mhmm. I mean, that's that's an experience that you can only get there Right. In a group. So if you're, you know, in mid Missouri. Right. It's definitely eye opening and you really take away a lot more from the region. Right. That's a really good point because as you say, like, it's not New York, it's not San Francisco LA. In terms of what you're able to receive in your market, yes, is a slimmer spectrum. Yes. Same. But that's cool because you being able to experience that, perhaps it's now something you can start bringing in and bringing life. Right. I actually did. So Valentina Mhmm. The other Valentina in Abruzzo. So I just brought on that spelt. Okay. That lovely Whultipulgiano de Baruzzo from twenty twenty one vintage. Okay. So really good vintage, but that wine is so beautiful. Yeah. And I would not have brought that onto my wine list without going there. Having experiencing it in person. Yeah. And then bringing that wine to the wine list, Yeah. It's a quality part of what we do. I love it. It's an important part. So let's talk about tech songs. In previous years, we've actually presented together on a couple of wine regions within the United States. And you usually are are a speaker, at least in the past few years, you've had something to talk about, which is always fun. This year, it was about age wines. Yes. Yeah. So tell me it was with a panel of people. Right? Who who else was on your panel? Yes. So Delick and Yannick and Mary Gorman. Okay. So do let Kainer? Yes. She's a master of wine based in Texas. And so is Mary. Yes. And then Yaniq, who we've actually had on the show as well. Oh, lovely. So you guys got to go through a range of aged wines, and if maybe you could tell me a little bit about them. Like, what how did y'all go about kind of picking, or did you just receive a selection that y'all had to go through? How's it? A little bit of both. So there was a selection of wines already available. It's cool because one of the wines on the panel, my friend from Wilbur Canyon winery reached out and said, Hey, I would love to have my wines represented on your age wine seminar. Okay. Is there any room? Yes. It would be fantastic to have an age Washington State, Cabernan. Yeah. I'm a very respectful weinery on the panel. So it's Woodbrook Canyon nineteen eighty nine dedication series, Cabernet sauvignon. Wow. That will be blind tasting. Nice. That is good blind taste with the group and also from Abruzzo. Nice. But here's how convenient? Marinas Trebiano Debrutza. Okay. So it's a really beautiful Tribiano Debrutzo from, the twenty thirteen vintage, if I'm not mistaken. Okay. Something with a little bit of age on it. So that's gonna be, a nice surprise. Yeah. I mean, that's always so fun to be able to do in blind. And I think that's the thing is you've got some really great cast of great, people on the panel that can help the audience break it down. And to be clear, who's in the audience can be anywhere from people who are just getting into the wine industry, to retailers, to sommeliers, to importers and distributors. So it's kind of a wide variety. One of the reasons TexOM is so strong is it gives people a chance to just continue to stay fresh with their Yes. Tasting abilities and their education. Continued education is very important. Yes. So this is my tenth time speaking at TexAM in a short amount of time. Yeah. So I'm very grateful and very thankful. But I think one of the things that that's so humbling is you're absolutely right. You look out into the crowd and you see the first timer and they're going for their level one, you know, they're just kind of getting their sone legs under them. Yeah. And right across from them is a master sommelier or a master of wine or a journal that has made some amazing pieces and articles on wine that I use as a resource. Right. Yeah. And then having to speak in front of him. Well, that's that's Yeah. Yeah. That's actually something that is a whole, yeah, thing we should talk about at some point too because it is. It's a lot. It's intimidating and also exciting at the same time. Started as a sommer camper. Yeah. After my first TexOM, getting that invitation to have this higher education and kind of dive a little bit deeper in conjunction with the TexOM Awards and, you know, meeting people that I've only read about in public occasions. We're seeing them in person and being part of that activity has been really special. And, I don't take it lightly by progression from a sommer camper to Yeah. Actually speaking. Yeah. It's a pretty surreal experience. Yeah. My first time as a sommer camper, if I'm not mistaken, I believe that you were my first editor. I was an editor for you. Yes. Yes. So, yeah. And and, like, to to kind of put that in in perspective, what the editing part is is so with the Texama Awards, when the gold medals get through, sommer campers. So, like, I guess, would be kind of people who are participating in the background of the awards to help with their own education, with their own career steps. What James Tidwell did was put together this idea that, like, everyone who is on the floor should be able to explain and describe a wine not only to a guest, but more and more journalists are asking you guys to help give us quotes or feedback on wines as we're writing a story. So, yeah, we were able to create this kind of many cosmos of editorial content where any gold wine that went through had to be written about by a member of the summer camp. And then there was kind of a panel of editors who would help you guys push through and understand how to write something versus just talk about it on the floor. So that's kind of the background on that. And it was I hope it wasn't too intimidating. Like, I I think back on that time and it's fun to You know, I value that experience so much because now I too am a freelance writer and That's not something that I saw on my Psalmbingo card in my laptop. I mean, now I get to write. And when I'm putting out my thoughts to a publication or if someone reaches out, I want some thoughts about whatever the topic is. I feel very confident in my writing now Yeah. Because of that. Yeah. Some are camp experience. Yeah. So learning how to write, learning my own voice, how I want to sound, how I want a wine to be conveyed, I mean, in this first couple years of summer camp. Yeah. Nailed it. Yeah. I love it. Well, you were great. And I think, you know, it just makes a difference. It's, again, kind of another thing that the conference does to help foster these careers as they're, as they're burgeoning. So back to the panel, I'm just curious just for listeners. I think it's always helpful to get tips and tricks. And I'm just curious, you know, for age wines, when you're tasting through them, especially if it's a blind situation, what are some of the things you're looking for in determining whether or not it's aged? And maybe even what the quality of that wine is. Like, could it potentially age more or things like that? What are some of the things you're looking at? Sure. So I think doing red wines are a little easier. And we'll start there. But for red wines, color plays such a large role in what we're doing. Yeah. So when I look at the color, I'm looking at the center of the wine versus the edge of the wine, how that color kind of dissipates, through the side of the glass. I'm looking for sediment. I'm looking for clarity. There's love cues just from sight that you can pick up on that tells you a lot about the line. Okay. Also, I mean, on a blind situation, I mean, tearing and concentration of the tears as far as color Yeah. Also play a big role. I mean, am I looking at a thin skinned grape? Am I looking at a thick skinned grape? That tells me a lot about how long it's been aged. You know, with cabernet, thick skinned grape, you know, if that color is holding on and tearing, you know, it's gonna be a lot older. If it's Pina noir, you know, there's no staining. It's, you know, it's little cues from that just kind of give you an idea from the site and stuff. And then like the fruit, are you looking for riper, or are you looking for more dried, or kind of stewed fruit to kind of give you an indication of age? Or Right. So think of a wine like you would look at a piece of fruit. Like an apple. Yeah. So if the apple is fresh and bright and just got picked, I mean, if you look at that apple and you taste it, you can taste the fresh fruit. It looks fresh. It looks bright. Mhmm. You know, the skin is nice and shiny and clear. But as the apple starts to age and decay, like, you can see the brown spots, like, oxygen, oxidation. Right. Like, the fruit itself tastes a little bruised and oxidize. Wine has the same reactions or less. Yeah. So I can't remember who told me that, but I kind of keep that in the back of my mind when I'm trying to figure out how old this wine is. Like, what's the stage of this apple? Right. Yeah. Where is, yeah, what is the condition of the fruit or whatever. Yeah. I think that's really good. And then, you know, I mean, obviously, in terms of structure, acid, and tannin are gonna play a role Right. And finish, like, if it, you know, if it has that. Assid, tannin, sugar content. That's the backbone, the building blocks of the wine. Yeah. And with those components, that is a dictator for the longevity and the agent ability of the wine. Right. Right. So, I mean, one of the best examples of the world is riesling, you know, a riesling like, Ashley's at level, for instance. High sugar, high acidity can last forever. I mean, those wines in the eighties even that have tasted are so brilliant still. Right. I mean, that sugar plus the acid act as a preservative. Mhmm. So that's really important. Yeah. Or look at grape like navy yellow. Yeah. Hi, Tannan. High acid can last forever. I mean, those are essential blocks. To the age ability of the line. Yeah. As a panelist or a speaker, not only do you have the ability to be on stage, but you also get the ability to sit in the audience for the other seminars that are around. So was there anything that you were excited to see? There is a seminar on tools of the trade. Oh, I love it. Yes. Yeah. So I believe I can't remember everyone on that panel, but it's master Sommelier, Jill Zamorski. Yes. So I'm looking forward to maybe new techniques or maybe even new tools in the market that I haven't seen yet. Yeah. Anything to make my life easier or better and how to use them properly. It's an interesting point because I think about, you know, in the restaurant world, things that might be helpful. Like, how has the Corovan changed your ability to work on the floor and manage a wine program? Has it helped? I mean, it has helped. At Madrina, I haven't used a Coravin yet, but I do plan to in the future. But at the four seasons, we used a corvin all the time. Yeah. And so we had this opportunity to pour off things that we wouldn't be able to, like, do it by the glass of Chablis for, like, you know, Right. Or Tanya Nello, which you're not gonna sell. No. Yeah. You know, it's not a high volume Right. Offering. Yeah. So I think Corvin does have a place in the wine world. Yeah. And in, restaurants too, I think it's Very valuable. Yeah. Well, and there's tools like that kind of entering the market all the time, whether it's the Duran to help with, you know, opening older bottles or, you know, things like that. Just got rid of Iran. Oh, did you? Yes. Congratulations. Yes. As it gets from a summary, Andre, Houston Knack. Oh, that's so much. Thank you for the Duran. Thank you, Andre. Love it. Well, Alicia, it has been so great to catch up with you as usual, and I'm glad we could do it on the podcast. I really think that it's been fun to see your progression in your career, and all of that has been through the conference itself through TexOM. So thank you so much for joining us. And Thank you, Jessica. Yeah. Absolutely. Cheers. Cheers. Alright. Listen to the Italian wine podcast wherever you get your podcasts. We're on SoundCloud, Apple Podcasts, Spotify, EmailIFM, and more. Don't forget to subscribe and rate the show. If you enjoy listening, please consider donating through Italian wine podcast dot com. Any amount helps cover equipment, production, and publication costs. Until next time, Cheaching.