Ep. 2220 Karla Ravagnolo interviews Gregoire Desforges| Next Generation
Episode 2220

Ep. 2220 Karla Ravagnolo interviews Gregoire Desforges| Next Generation

The Next Generation

January 19, 2025
76,77430556
Gregoire Desforges

Episode Summary

Content Analysis Key Themes and Main Ideas 1. The ""Next Generation"" approach to winemaking and wine communication in Italy, prioritizing human stories and emotional connection. 2. The transformation and future vision for Valle Di Pionnetto under its new owner, Gregoir De Forshe. 3. The unique terroir and potential of high-altitude winemaking in an underexplored region of Sicily. 4. A holistic and progressive understanding of sustainability, encompassing environmental, social, and ethical dimensions in wine and hospitality. 5. The integration of authentic wine tourism (oenotourism) and immersive hospitality experiences. 6. The strategic balance between honoring tradition and embracing innovation in viticulture and business management. Summary In this episode of the Italian Wine Podcast's ""Next Generation"" series, host Carla Naviano interviews Gregoir De Forshe, the new owner of Valle Di Pionnetto. Gregoir shares his ambitious vision for the winery, emphasizing a modern approach that centers on sustainability, ethical practices, and revitalized communication. He highlights Valle Di Pionnetto's distinct location in the mountains near Palermo, with vineyards reaching up to 900 meters, which allows for unique, fresh, and elegant high-altitude wines, differentiating them from more commonly known Sicilian regions like Etna. Gregoir outlines his commitment to financial sustainability alongside a broader definition of sustainability that includes environmental protection, social inclusivity (e.g., supporting LGBTQ+ community, local employment), and ethical engagement across the entire value chain. He introduces plans for an ""eco-hotel"" designed to offer an immersive, regenerative tourism experience deeply rooted in nature and local culture. The wine portfolio is being refreshed to reflect this new direction, featuring both local and international grape varieties. Gregoir's core ""hot take"" is the critical need to renew wine communication by placing the stories, ambitions, and emotions of the people behind the wines at the forefront. Takeaways - The future of Italian wine, as embodied by the ""Next Generation,"" involves a significant pivot towards more empathetic, human-centered communication. - Valle Di Pionnetto is strategically positioned in a lesser-known, high-altitude region of Sicily, offering unique terroir for distinctive wines. - Sustainability for Valle Di Pionnetto is a comprehensive concept, extending beyond environmental care to include social equity, community involvement, and ethical business interactions. - Gregoir De Forshe's international background and modern management style are driving significant changes in branding, viticulture, and company culture. - The planned ""eco-hotel"" represents an innovative approach to wine tourism, aiming to create an authentic and regenerative experience that benefits both guests and local communities. - Valle Di Pionnetto actively balances tradition with innovation, exemplified by hiring cutting-edge enologists, adapting to climate change, and seeking to recover lost local grape varieties. - Sicilian terroir allows for a diverse range of wines, including high-altitude sparkling wines and unique expressions of international grape varieties like Syrah. Notable Quotes - ""So I believe that the challenge will not only to renew the wines itself, and this is a big part already, but also the way we communicate about wines, making it more emphatic and engaging. And for this reasoning, I strongly believe that, people, should be placed at the center, with their stories, their ambition, weaknesses, emotion."

About This Episode

The Italian wine podcast, led by Carlaario and Greg War, is focused on sustainability and enhancing the brand's recognition. They are expanding internationally through their approach to sustainability and creating a sustainable source of water and waste. The speakers emphasize the importance of creating a safe environment, community, and sustainability, and collaborating with other groups. They also discuss their success in international grape varieties and their approach to international wine production. They express their gratitude and hope to do it again soon.

Transcript

So I believe that the challenge will not only to renew the wines itself, and this is a big part already, but also the way we communicate about wines, making it more emphatic and engaging And for this reasoning, I strongly believe that, people, should be placed at the center, with their stories, their ambition, weaknesses, emotion. And I believe we need to return to telling and celebrating not only the wines, but Also, those who make it possible, and that's what we are implementing in our communication in valedito. Welcome to another episode of the Italian wine podcast, the next generation series, where we aim to answer one simple question. What are the new generations up to when it comes to wine and food? My name is Carla Naviano. Join me as we dive into the latest trends in Italian wine. Hello, and welcome to another episode of the Italian wine podcast. My name is Carlaario. I'll be your host for this episode of the next generation series. Today, I'm pleased and very much excited to welcome Gregoir De Forshe, the new owner of Valle Di Pionnetto, everybody. I really wanted to give a huge shout out to Greg War for this accomplishment, and I'm actually curious to ask him as the very first question. How are you feeling about it, Gregwar? Oh, Karla, thank you very much for the opportunity, to express myself and and to tell you a bit about the history of How do I feel at the moment? Wow. Sincerely, very excited. Great responsibility on my shoulders. It goes along, obviously, with a bit of anxiety in these days because it's gonna be a challenge to bring the company to financial sustainment, sustainability, but also very happy about this new era coming. I I totally get the anxiety part. But I'm sure you're gonna do great. I know you have a lot of projects, like, for the coming years. And, actually, I would like to start with you by locating where the winery is. When we first enter your website, we read there is a Sicily you do not know yet. So why don't you start by locating your winery and sharing with us what you mean by this claim? So first of all, I'm happy that the the claim made an impact. Balodi Peneto is located thirty minute drive also, of palermo, in the mountains, We have actually vineyards that reach up to nine hundred meters above sea level. What I mean by this claim, is that we are situated in an area that at the moment remains relatively unknown to the international wine scene. It's a city that many people are unaware of, both in terms of natural beauty, but also of the uniqueness of the terroir and its biodiversity. When I speak to people around the world, about Sicily, they tell me Aetna, they tell me natto, they tell me see, but really our vineyards are very different, from the most famous regions of the islands, even if Aetna is also in high altitude. And, this high altitude, and its climate allows us to produce wines with, a lot of freshness, very elegant, and that really make them unique. I I actually agree with you because, basically, when everybody think about high altitude wines in Sicily specifically, they their mind immediately jumps to Aetna. But I feel like one of the biggest challenges in Sicily is communicating and letting people know that It's a very varied, territory. There is a lot of, like, different types of environment, altitude exposures. So I am very much excited to learn more about your wines and how do you convey the richness of your of your land in the glasses. So jumping to the next question is you represent the third generation of the Martotto family. How do you want to contribute to the company That's, that's an excellent question. Thank you very much. So my primary goal is definitely to enhance the recognition of our wines, by highlighting their distinctiveness and quality both in Italy and abroad, but never forgetting or even more emphasizing focusing on sustainability and the preservation of our terroir and community. Then as a representative of the third generation of the Marzotto family, I believe my role is in one way to honor the company's history But in another way, change things in order to be able to guide it towards financial sustainability as soon as possible. And in the end, my vision is not that different from, what my grandparents had in mind. Basically, make very simple. It takes into account people in nature to do quality wines. I think that it was only not clearly stated, and I've only refreshed it a bit. But what's gonna be really, really different is the way to achieve it. We have repositioned the brand by specializing in high altitude vineyards, meaning a total new style of of wines, basically. We hired a new neurologist in the quality of, Grazini. We have a new CEO that is done. Dante Bonaccina. We have new vineyards and new labels, but really a lot of other things. And myself, I would like to bring a bit of internationality. I was born in raised in Paris, and I lived and worked in four other cities and, traveled a lot, in my life. I think it gives me a broad perspective, and I want to implement, let's say, a more modern management style in the company. And by that, I mean, more transparency, more communication, compassion, empathy, inclusivity, ethics and so on. And I'm also sure that my background will help me to expand internationally. Hundred percent. Also, I have kind of a hot question for you, maybe. But you are a very young professional, if I may say, but with these international experience, as you mentioned, do you see now that you're the owner of Valle de Panito, do you see any specific challenges or opportunities to merge the the more traditional wine industry and, again, your innovative approach. This is a quite a long answer. As the third generation, I see these wines evolving towards, even greater refinement and, sustainability. We will continue to focus on expressing the true identity of the vineyards through both traditional techniques and the latest technological advancements. The choice of locating our vineyards at altitude up to nine hundred meters above sea level represents both an identity and strategic choice This terroir allows us to produce unique wines with unexpected elegance, freshness, and drinkability, along with a lower alcohol content that, meets the expectations of more and more conscious consumers who care about health and wellness, and I understand them. The altitude combined with our, almost total self sufficiency in terms of water resources and energy needs offers us a great resilience to climate change. However, we believe it is necessary to accelerate the cultural growth in the management of our vineyards. And if necessary, we will implement a cultural shift in VINiculture. Our approach should go in two complementary directions. In one hand, always keeping our feet and eyes in the vineyards, to listen to the nature's signals and its content, adaptation to changes or annual weather variation. And on the other hand, we need to maintain continuous dialogue with, other producers and experts like botanist, anthropologists, geologists, and so on, so that we can develop a better understanding, a global understanding of the issues. And so balancing tradition and innovation is gonna very it's gonna be very important for us, and that's why we specifically wanted Grazena Gracini in our team. Why? Because she's a a researcher and an inologist skilled in new technologies for vineyards, care, and, great processing. As well as one of the first recognized woman in Onogist in Italy. But with respect to territory today, I think that working with flow impact is essential to rely on the new innovation of inological science. Innovating to protect tradition might seem contradictory, but in reality, it's only by applying new knowledge and techniques that we can preserve the organoleptic characteristic of the grape, allowing the vineyards to adapt to the changes. And, I'm very proud of one of our challenge that is gonna be to recover local, grape varieties that have disappeared over time, giving a new life to those varieties that shaped the the sicilian wine history. And, actually, it's a great it's, it's a great, great risk, but the value is great, and it can stand as a statement to our deep connection to the heart of Artella. These actually also introduces one of your key concepts that is the concept of echo hotel because basically twenty twenty five started with you in full swing. With the new title of owner and also with an echo hotel coming together. Would you mind telling us what does echo hotel mean? How did you come up with the idea and how does it relate to that is a a project that is still being studied and that I'm, very, proud and excited to see, to see it, come alive. One thing is, don't think I will call it, a reco hotel. Why? Because, I think that the ecological aspect will be embedded within the business model, and people will definitely feel it I don't like it to use it at the communication tool, even if we will in a certain way in, on the website. But I think that ecology should be at the forefront of any business idea. The hotel will be a space that goes beyond just providing rooms. It's about creating an immersive experience that is deeply rooted in sustainability, nature, and local culture. And we really want to allow people to experience it. This idea comes, from the desire to bring people closer, closer to the nature, that we live in and, closer to the wines we produce. You could say in a way that it's a way to extending value dependent those wines beyond the bottles into a holistic approach that includes gastronomy, hospitality, and education about environment and culture? Blue mentioned hospitality, obviously. And we know that end of tourism is one of the biggest trends that we should keep an eye on. But how do you think anotourism will shape, and contribute to the island or the Paleripinieto area? The hotel project will be based, first of all, on a zero emission building goals and regenerative tourism model. Designed definitely to enhance the local community. So we've made, a priority to involve local artisans, farmers, producers, by and I think it strengthens the connection between the state and the people who live around it. For example, in the one year, we have close to a hundred percent of our employees that are locals, and we will try to achieve the same result in the hotel. As for the environment, it's early to stay what will be achievable, but the idea is to be like the the winery energetically independent, and to have a sustainable source of water and to reduce waste as much as possible. I also want to enhance what my grandmother has started with her biodiverse garden I'm studying the possibility to do a small reforestation project, Centropic agriculture, and other things like vertical farming among others, but it's really early to speak about it. It's It's very important for us to create an authentic experience that doesn't only benefit our guests, but also provides economic opportunities for the surrounding areas and to respect the environment. Of course, That's for the in authorization in CCD. I think it's still in its early days, but I believe it has a potential to shape the future of the island's tourism sector that is growing by creating a destination that offers visitors not just one but an immersive experience, for example, we hope that this will bring attention to the unique beauty, of our territory and its wines and culture. I think that will contribute to the growth of slow tourism as well. By providing guests with a deeper understanding of facilities, very, very rich cultural heritage and, in, in a logical heritage. You very quick mentioned what I think is one of the key words that I've been hearing from many young, one professionals that is authenticity. You mentioned, like, an authentic experience. Right? Do you think this is the added value that can convince even like younger consumers to better approach and come closer in a way to the to the wine industry, do you think this is something that can somewhat change the perception of the wine industry and bring people closer. Yeah? Yes. Definitely. I think that, those days, the trend in hospitality is definitely looking towards authenticity, towards the immersion into, the culture, and deeper understanding of the people that take care of the vineyards or the people that live in the area, and and all the things that go with it. Yeah. Especially because when everybody keeps saying like, oh, organic wine, organic wine, or, like, the the sustainability project. There's somewhat I don't wanna say, like, I don't wanna talk about greenwashing, but it is certain now that people are kinda verifying if the organic, the biological side of a project is true. And what I really like about your project as well is that your concept of sustainability is soaked in awareness because it's not just about the environment as you mentioned, but there's also the social side, the social mission. Right? And I know you have been very mindful about the LGBTQ community, the women of the community, the locals, of course, but also you have in mind a collaboration with Anna Delvino. Would you mind talking about that? For sure. So when we talk about sustainability, for me, it's not only about the environment, which is, of course, very important, but it's also about creating, let's say, a safe space that values diversity, inclusion, and social responsibility. So I'm committed to collaborate with groups, like, you mentioned, Donna Delvino, of which I'm very proud. My mother, that is also the vice president of Balil de Pieneto, is also the sicilian represented in the board of directors. And for me rest assured that it would be a priority to personally make sure that the hotel will be a welcoming place for all, including the lgbtq plus community. But really anyone. I think this is early to say, but we I would like to test blind recruiting and, really want that the hotel is a place where everyone feels accepted, valued, and safe. Plus, unlike the winery that has twenty six years of, history, everything is to be created for the hotel. And therefore, I will make sure that the the hiring is very inclusive. I will have the opportunity to do it myself And, obviously, it will also be your source of employment, and growth for the local community. This will also be a priority, and we will definitely start searching in our, in our area first while investing and training people for, from our area. Like we did, with the winery. Got it. Another key word for younger consumers, especially that goes alongside with sustainability is ethic, like ethical products, I know you like, one of the things you mentioned to me is that you're thinking about creating an ethical code for the hotel. Would you mind sharing with us what is your concept of ethical products and what does ethics means to you and the project and how does it apply to the wine and hospitality industry? Yes. Absolutely. So for me ethics in the wine and hospitality industries, I think should go beyond only sourcing and and production. I think it's it's, it's about how you interact basically with the entire value chain in the environment, the employees, the suppliers, the guests, everything. And basically, like many industries that rely on human and, human capital in the environment, it means in a very simple set in a very simple way treating them both with fairness and respect and unfortunately what I think at the moment, and this is not because of a trend, but because of a personal conviction is that, too many businesses, they generate financial wealth at the expense of social, cultural, environmental, and even and and this is the last aspect is very push important emotional well-being. They basically extract value instead of creating it. And for me being ethical basically means creating positive impact across all of these areas rather than focusing only on one benefits that is the financial gain. And I know that it's easier said than done, and the winery is undergoing restructuring process. We made, we made a a pact that we would not touch the employees. So there's different priorities, but the the first one is to reach, let's say, financial stability, but then we will focus definitely on, ethical codes and and and sustainability and all the other things. So focusing on the wines now. Would you mind telling us a little bit more about the wines? How would you describe them? What is your what does your portfolio look like? So, yeah, the portfolio has changed a lot last year after I was made responsible of, restructuring the company. And, Dante Bonachina, our new CEO has been a of great help to for that process. The process is it over, and we will keep you engaged with new project, hopefully, almost every year for the next five to ten years since we're planting vineyards, nine hundred meters above sea level. But as I mentioned, I want to give continuity with a clear cut. That's why I decided to keep, but refresh our main line of Via, but basically with new labels and new styles of wine. So currently, our wine portfolio includes, both local and international grape varieties. We produce both single varietals and carefully crafted blends that highlight the distinctiveness of our each wine is designed to reflect the unique conditions of our vineyards and philosophies of sustainable production. And now for the description of the lines, we have the imported saline that has seven labels, and represents the local grips we work with, including solia Catarato, Grille, Loodabola, and Frpato, together with the international ones that are viewing against Jira. The goal is basically to restore the authentic expression of those virus, varieties in Ottawa. Then we have the Via franchise. That is our high end line, it includes two blends, the the white Via franchise with green, low, insolia, and union, and the red Via franchise that is made of neutral double encia, and we recently launched Jose, that is made of Sierra. I was just, like, wondering why the Alfredo. I was I was about to tell you, basically, it's very fun. It's the name of the street where Balodi Peneinto is located. Tom Palide Peneta is located in the middle of Sicily a street that's called Via Franca, and being half French half Italian was a very fun coincidence, and I I we decided because it's, it's an old line that we have to give the name to the one that represents us most. And so we also kept two of our Aetna wines, fetamata one hundred and twenty five white and red and two sparkling wines that are Muriali, and fuchsiax. And we have recently, launched the ara pacito, a pacito that is made from blended the muscato grapes from the archives of our Val de Natto property, with our high altitude vineyards in the core area of, Canada. And, I like to say that it's too many faster of the evolution of the winery. Nice. I'm very much looking forward taste that wine one day. Please. But besides the the pastito, which is very interesting, we know that one of the most drank wines in the world is sparkling wine. So I feel like, like, even though it's one of the most consumed and drank wines, not that many people know that Sicily produces sparkling wines as well. So, like, your sparkling wines kinda got my attention also because as we mentioned at the beginning, they're produced at kind of high altitude. Like, I read it's seven hundred and twenty meters circa above the level, Would you mind telling us a little bit more about your sparkling wines and why are they altitude wines? Yes. And I'm also very proud to mention that at the moment, it's that seven hundred and twenty meters above sea level, but soon it will be up to nine hundred, meters. Which is a real bet, let's say. And that means that there's a significant temperature variation between day and night, that can reach up to twenty degrees. Okay. So that's very important. And it's also very important for sparkling wines because it gives them acidity and freshness. And our, silica rich soil, allows us also to produce grapes with ideal characteristics for sparkling wines production. Resulting in, minerality and bazamic notes fresh and persistent, making, balladipanettos wine and bubbles very fine and elegant. What is the best drinking occasion? I would I would say, hot summer or aperitivo. The other thing, the other wines that caught my attention, of course, are the international grape varieties because we all know So I wonder, is there any specific note or characteristic that make people say, like, this or this era are from Sicily? Yes. Yes. Yes. Is an international grape or French grape that became international, but it's also deeply rooted in Sicily, and it almost feels like a adopted native. But still, the power and boldness of our sicilian Sierra makes it different from the the French ones Nevertheless, they both share great refinement and, harmonious, the land of Picy and, Basamic notes. And for our think it offers a floral notes of violet and broom with aromas of sage, time with the minerality brought by, this unique stone that is called Fecilinio, that we only find in our area. And I think that it's it reflects the rich biodiversity of our, Pianito core terroir. I'd like to also mention that our journey is also a symbol of longevity. Here in the winery. We are still opening bottles of Unune from the year two thousand and one, and it's great. Are you really people surprised to find international grape varieties from Sicily? Because, you know, of course, people know that is, if they're about, etcetera. What is their reaction to international grape varieties? It's it's always positive, and it goes along with the story of the company. My grandfather, married, a a French woman that was my grandmother, and, therefore, it's blended, embedded in the the the history of Balaji Peneto, and that's, what's distinctive. So it's always a a positive impact, and they also always ask the same question as you did. How is your vignet your sera different from the French one? And they want to they want to feel the difference. They want to feel the the the altitude also in the wines and and so on. Interesting. So one last question, What is your hot take? Do you have a hot take for the wine industry? Like, something that the wine industry is not ready to hear yet? I see. I'm not sure how how hot it is, but, I'd like to say that I am thirty five years old. Yes. And, I come from a culture that attributes certain values to wine. And I feel the responsibility to interpret and update these values so that the new generation, they can understand and how extraordinary and profound this world is. So I believe that the challenge will not only to renew the wines itself, and this is a big part already. This this is the first hot take, but also the way we communicate about wines make making it more emphatic and engaging. And for this reasoning, I strongly believe that, people, should be placed at the center, with their stories, their ambition, weaknesses, emotion, And I believe we need to return to telling and celebrating not only the wines, but also those who make it possible. And that's, what we are implementing in our communication in Valle de Beneto. I love that. I a hundred percent agree with that. So, Craig Ward, I really wanna thank you for joining us today. It's been incredibly fun. Did you enjoy it? I wanna thank you as well, and I hope, we can do it again soon. I will have a lot of news in the next coming years. So Yes. Looking forward to see how the project develops. I'm really excited for it. Thank you. Thank you so much for joining us today. 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