Ep. 1843 Christina Juen-Wess | Voices With Cynthia Chaplin

Welcome to the Italian Great Geek podcast. Join us as we explore personal stories of travel and tasting with Italy's must know grape for idols. Chart your own course with my Italian Great Geek journal, your personal tasting companion to accompany the series. Available now on Amazon. With thanks to calendula and partners for their generous support with this project. Welcome to the Italian wine podcast. I'm Cynthia Chaplin, and this is voices. Every Wednesday, I will be sharing conversations with international wine industry professionals discussing issues in diversity, equity and inclusion through their personal experiences working in the field of one. If you enjoy the show, please subscribe and rate our show wherever you get your pods. Hello, and welcome to voices. This is Cynthia Chaplin. And today, I'm so excited to welcome Christina West to voices. Christina's father Rainer started West winery in two thousand and three, and Christina took it over just last year. She's already recognized as a passionate winemaker and a leader of a new generation of Austrian female winemakers. So I'm really happy that we could chat today. Thank you so much for coming on the show, Christina. Thank you for having me. It's a real pleasure. Well, it's great to talk to you. It's nice to be in the same time zone with one of my guests for once. You're in Austria, obviously, and I'm Verona. So you grew up in the wine world in Austria, but when did you decide you wanted to become part of it yourself and have a career in the wine sector? Yeah. That, I, came pretty early. But I I grew up in a wine growing, like, area. But, as my father founded the wine only in o three, it was very small at the beginning, and we were living some somewhere else. So, but I was always very, fascinated about his job or the way he he's speaking about his job. And, yeah, and that that really got me. And the first, like, like, I think I didn't even realize how much because there was, like, a school, like, festive about, like, ten or ten years or about something, in our, town where, where, or village where I grew up. And, like, someone called, like, ask the children what they want to become in the future. And, some of them said something like, yeah, I want to become a doctor, I went to, be a astronaut or something like this. And I said, yeah, I went to be a winemaker. And she looked at me, like, what? Like, yes. I went to grow wine. Like, I was about, like, like, ten at that age. So I had no clue what what it is to be a a winemaker, but I I was just fascinated about my father's job. And that's that's basically when I decided, okay, I I want to know more about what it what it is like or or how it will be like when I'm becoming a winemaker. And since from that on, I, yeah, always knew what I wanted to do. I can only imagine the parent teacher conference when your teacher said to your parents. Do you know? Yeah. It it was it was quite a laugh and then, like, but but you're not drinking wine. No. And it's no. No. I'm not. I'm not. It worked for you because you ended up taking over from your dad last year. But before that, you did go on and study at the very prestigious Viticulture School, Closter Newberg near Vienna, and you worked in some of Europe's elite wineries such as domain Marquis Danjerville and Burgundy, domain POC, a POC in Southern France, and weinngelkounselor and Rheingau. So what was it like being a young woman in these very elite circles of wine in Europe? Know, did you have lots of female classmates at university? Was there support for women in Austria? Yeah. I mean, there there there was always that we we have been some, some girls as well. In in in close to noyberg, of course. And, what makes me really happy is that, that, that number of women, going to close to noyberg to study, analogy is rising. So when I was in Flusnoyabic, we're we're about thirty six students and six, six girls. And now, they they they are, like, some some classes even half half. So this is really great. And when becoming, the one that, like, get of course, there is always some something which is which annoys you, maybe doesn't it come across if you're, male and going into wine industry. But in general, and I think that's also the the best tip I would give everyone or, like, every woman thinking about. Doing something in the wine industry, you're rather running a winery or working in sales or anything, just do it and don't listen to the others. I mean, some some things, yes, but keep keep focused. And that's why why, of course, some some like, do do you need help with that net, that, in the seller or no? I actually know how to do it. Or, I will do the filter. You can do this, it's like, no. I know it too. So you can do the other thing as well. I think being able to stand up for yourself and and say, I know what I'm doing here is is very good advice. Don't let other people push you around. Don't listen to it. Keep doing what you've been trained. Exactly. Exactly. It's amazing that, I mean, you're, you know, you're not a a very elderly lady. So it's amazing that, you know, you were only six women, and now it's up to fifty percent, women in the world. So that's a very quick change. That's good news for our industry. It's happening like that here in Italy too, but I have a question for you because in Italy, we've got about fifty percent female students in the analogy schools as well now. But when we look at the data coming out of the school, ninety percent of the men get a job in their first year and only twelve percent of the women. Do you know anything how it is for Closter NYberg, the students there now? I get I do not have any numbers for for that, to be honest. I don't have something similar to compare that. But it it's also very, like, in Australia, it's still very, very traditional. So go to winemaking school when you have a winery at home. Yeah. I think that's I think that's very much a point in Italy too. It's changing I have some younger female colleagues who who have gone to a knowledge school, and they don't have wineries, but it's interesting because none of them are actually working at a winery right now. So I think this is something we need to look at in Europe it's great if your family has a winery, but it's a little more difficult. If not, so and I threw that question at you. So I apologize, but it's just I I have four daughters. So it's always interesting to me to see you know, how the jobs are panning out after people finish university, especially in our wine industry, Italy is like Austria at white traditional. So a lot of men, and it's not that easy to crack into the industry. So you know, you're in charge now at at West, and I know you restructured the winery when you took over from your father. So what changes did you implement? And what was the reaction from from your dad and everybody else at the winery? Yeah. I mean, I, basically, I, my dad and myself, we have huge respect for, like, like, his experiences, but he also brings that respects back into my experiences. So when I joined in eighteen, there was always the question. What do you think? And what made us, like, like, stick together is that what how can we do better And then there is no, okay, I know better than you and this and blah, blah, blah, blah, but it's it's like, okay, how can we improve? And that that was a huge thing, and then I came came with for instance, for the village wines and single vineyards, with no, like, a more or less questions, like, every step if it's necessary or not. For instance, like, the the village and the cruise, We are not filtering them anymore and also no fining, like, bentonite. And then we are leaving them on the whole lease very long, so for about, nearly a year. And then only record two times a little bit of sulfur, and that's it. Wow. You're building you're building some serious structure there. That's that's very different. Yeah. Yeah. And, I think more attention to to details. So, also, we we switched to, on the, racks bottles when it comes to single vineyards. Because we do export quite a lot, and I think it's, of course, it's a lot of work, but it's nice to to, have, like, a moment with your bottle of wine before you sent them in the, in in the world. And it's a small thing, but I I really appreciate that doing, even though it's sometimes a pain in the ass and really takes some some time and how to do it nicely and everything. But in general, it's, yeah, I'm really happy doing this. Are you enjoying this podcast? Don't forget to visit our YouTube channel, mama jumbo shrimp. For fascinating videos covering Stevie Kim and her travels across Italy and beyond. Meeting winemakers, eating local foods, and taking in the scenery. Now back to the show. Well, I know you're also focusing a lot on sustainability, which is a big key issue for me and, you know, for all of us in the wine industry right now. So fill us in on what sustainability means for you at at West, you know, how are you implementing sustainable practices there? Yeah. I think, here, like, like, sustainability is also heard, like, a call, like, a learn and call them in conversations, bullshit phrases. Everybody heard them. It's like, what is sustainability? That is so true. But sustainability for me is, like, to to improve and to do something better than I've done, last year in focusing on my impact at the nature. So if, if it's a small step on the, like, substituting some plastic clamps with some biodegradable ones, that's already good. And next year, I'm gonna think about what I'm doing, the next step So this year we'll use very, like, like, a lot of cleaver in in our terrace vineyards to, to make to have a cover crop as well in terraces to to lower the temperature of the soil. So next year, we will think about something else. So it will always step by step. Sustainability doesn't just come. As you said, you know, it is a bullshit world, like natural wines can be a bullshit. Yeah. Exactly. It it doesn't just come. You have to approach it in a three hundred and sixty degree way. And that's not easy and it's expensive and it's time consuming, but it's important for our world as you said, you know, keeping protecting nature and and making sure that the products we create are, you know, are pure and and authentic too. So I love what you're doing. And I know, you know, you mentioned you're dedicated to, you know, expressing your individual vineyard sites. So, you know, where do you see your winery five years from now? You just took over. So what's the what's the dream wine you wanna make? If you could make any wine at West, what would you make? I have a very, like, the a nice project, which I really love, at the winery. And I really see the improvement in this vineyard so much from the last years. So it's our PNR site. Single vineyard site, which is more dedicated to riesling, and we planted it in two thousand eleven together with my dad. So we have, thirty six different clones in this vineyard. And two wines per place. So a planting density, about ten thousand plants per hectare. And, this is a very, very cool site. And, during, like, some colleagues were like, okay, do are you producing sparkling? So I'm like, no. We want to produce decent red pinot noir. And, first twenty two to really release was eighteen and, like, it becomes hotter and hotter, like everywhere. And, this vineyard, like, if if somebody says, we we, in in five years, having a better sample or, like, from which it's two thousand three, in, in their glass. And they're getting them blind, and they say something. It's something between Germany and Burgundy but it's, like, very, appolation driven. I think it this is a cool site in Austria, Pinaldwar from Kramstyl. This would be brilliant. That's amazing. I I'm gonna have to keep an eye out and taste it as you as you go along. You you always say great wines come from skill and knowledge and empathy, and you don't necessarily need broad shoulders to do that. And I I love that quote. As I said, I I say similar things to my daughters and to my younger female colleagues who I mentor. So, you know, what's your advice for young women coming into the European wine business now? You know, you said don't don't let people push you around. Don't don't listen to everybody else's opinion. But what would you advise people to do who came to you and said I wanna get into line now? Just, like, like, comfort for comfort and internship. Just have fun, go for harvests, go pruning, and talk with the people. Actually, wine people are super nice, and it tell you a lot of things. So, of course, read the books but, really listen to your stomach feel that, like, what what what what does do you really want to do, approach this, winemakers and, ask them and about their experiences and then join them and also join them what they want to drink and what they they, think about wine because it's wine is something very, very personal. And I think, like, talking to the people this is, very, very important and listen to your feelings, what you want to do. And if it is, one hectare of, planting wines in, somber and only holding it cultivating it with pics, do it? I think this is great advice. I I think practical experience is more important than almost anything else you can learn in a classroom or for a book. You know, we we all need our book and we all need to go to university and study, but getting a practical experience and really getting your hands on and seeing how it all works and getting a mentor somebody who has more experience than you and tasting a lot of wines, all those things. That's great advice. I think practical experiences is really valuable, and people seem to forget that. So, excellent advice. Yeah. Yeah. And also this this fun and and make makes mistakes and love about it. During harvest, there always some funny things which are happening, and or, like, like, harvest pruning anything, make mistakes and appreciate them because I they are super important and they are, like, when when when you go through your career, you will, remember those and, love them off, but don't worry too much about them. And and it builds builds your story too. I think, you know, that's all of those mistakes are part of who we are going forward. So it's it's it's nice to hear that. Do you take interns, at West? Do you and and other people to come? Yes. Yes. We do. We do. And actually, like, last, last year, we had a great intern, so that last, internship, last last, vintage two thousand three. We had a great intern, which was already a guest at your podcast. And she she came from, like, the mind world is very, very, small. So she came from a friend, who is a family in France, and we have him, as a friend in common, and he recommended me to, to her, to come. And she's now a great friend of mine. And we had a marvelous time, here, and, learned from each other a lot, which is also So we definitely take interns. And, yeah, we all already have one for for this season, but we still have room. So if somebody who is hearing that, very, very welcome, Well, that's one of the things I like to do. You know, if I can if I can help anybody who's listening, it sounds like Wes is a very open, you know, generous, full of good spirit place to to get your feet on the ground and to start learning I love your attitude to, you know, people just starting in the wine world. So I hope people who are listening will feel encouraged and reach out to you and and get in the vineyard. But before I let you go, I'm gonna ask you one last question. You know, I said, we're I'm in verona and only a six hour drive from Kremstel. So I love high acid Austrian rieslings. That's why I'm interested in this pinot noir because it's gonna be my Conalista. And Northern Italy and Austria share so many geological aspects and wine styles. So what's your favorite Italian wine when you're not drinking Austrian? Yeah. My favorite Italian wine, as I said before, for French, she's now living in Florence. And, we we had, of course, a lot of, Chianta Chasico, together, which I really enjoy. But we went to a friend of hers, and that's, again, how small the wine weinbald is to Torri Pankole winery in Santa Castina. And, they're, frederico, we were sit we were sitting at the terrace, and he porters his orange wine And saying that, I am I I love, every kind of wine, but sometimes not this kind of orange wines. I I do I wouldn't choose, but I was like, when when he put it, I was like, off. I'm not a you know, I I I like classic good wine. And he poured it and he we had it as a side with pecorino cheese, and this was stunning. It was a stunning spicy wine with lots of taps And, I'm when thinking about Italian wine, I'm thinking about that moment and this wine. It's the Il Matan. I I re I'm I'm sure I pronounced every word wrong, it's earlier now. Because I never had any of the schools. I apologize. Guadalico. Every everyone can find it. I'm sure. It's I'm I'm shocked that you mentioned it Italian orange wine, and it's so funny because you're right. The the world of wine is very small, and people are very generous and open and supportive, but orange wine is really an up and coming thing. How how is orange wine in Austria? Is it taking off there as much as it is here? It is a lot, but, yeah. I I I once said, and and I do think that is, of course, trends go, like, a common go, but, like, black dress from Givenchy will never get out of trend. And then we went to make wines, which are more like the Shimchy black dress. I'd love to agree with you. I feel that way about Pat Nat too. Yeah. Yeah. There are some good ones. There are some fun ones, but, like, to decent sit at the table, I prefer some nice, riesling single vineyard like Thaffenburg or, like, a good pin on our Well, we're we are not gonna get anywhere better in this conversation than that. So I'm I'm so grateful that you came on today. It was really fun chatting with you, and I wish you all the best. I'm gonna keep my eye on West and see if I can get hold of that pinot noir here. So Thank you so much for your time, and I hope that you get a bunch of wonderful interns this year. Thank you. Thank you. Cheers. Thanks. Take care, Christina. Take care too. Bye. Thank you for listening. And remember to tune in next Wednesday when I'll be chatting with another fascinating guest. Italian wine podcast is among the leading wine podcasts in the world, and the only one with a daily show. Tune in every day and discover all our different shows. You can find us at Italian wine podcast dot com, SoundCloud, Spotify, Himalaya, or wherever you get your pods.