Ep. 264 --ENGLISH-- Attilio Scienza (VIA Chief Scientist) on Vermentino | Italian Wine Essentials

This episode of the Italian wine podcast is brought to you by the new book, San Jose, Lambruschco, and other vine stories. Researchers Atilio Shenza and Cerrenne Macio, explore the origin and ancestry of European great varieties in a tale of migration, conquest, exploration, and cross cultural exchange. Hardback available on Amazon in Europe, Kindle version available worldwide. Find out more at Italian winebook dot com. Italian wine podcast. With Italian wine people. Hello. My name is Monte Walden. Welcome to another special episode of the Italian wine podcast with Professor Atilio Shenza. Today, we'll be talking about Vermentino. Atilio is a famous vine genetics scholar. He serves as the chief scientist of the Venetidy International Academy. So like we did for the other episodes with the TDR, we'll speak in Italian, and we'll then record an English language translation Now, you can find all Atilio Shenza's podcast in our series Italian wine essentials. And you can access that on both SoundCloud and on our official website. Now on the website, you can also find a useful transcript in both languages of all the episodes with Atilio Shenza. Good morning to Monty, and good morning to all the listeners who listen to me. Hope I can give them some good information about the grape varieties we are describing. Can you talk about the origin of the name Vermentino and its meaning? Vermentino is a vine. Perhaps one of the few vines in the world whose pedigree we have not yet been able to uncover. We have no hard facts as to its parent vines nor descendants. If anything, we will talk about hypothesis a little later. We know it probably arrived in Kmont because the first historical mention of Vermontino was in sixteen fifty eight in the province of Alexandria, where it was used to create a wine together with Cortese and Nebula. It arrived in Paymont from liguria along the Via Del Salle while later on in Sardinia in Corsica, it arrived via Piza and Spain. The journey of Vermont in Italy was very different. In the details, let's say, in the northwest and the central part in Sardinia, the characteristics of the bunch in the Berry indicate it as belonging to Eastern Perols. To the parolees Pontica. That is to say, not with the same characteristics of the Western varietal origins. There is evidence from other European countries, as well. For instance, in Corsica, it is called, as well as being called Malaveza de la Corsica. In Portugal, it is called Malazir del Doro, in Spain, Malazir Prekoth, and is known above all in the eastern Pirenais because it is used to make overripe grape wines. There are some kinship hypotheses, as I was saying before, but they are quite labyrinthine. One of these is there being a kinship with sovignon, and with Piccabon. Pickcabon is an old ligurian grape variety, which is in fact, of a nacho di san gimignano. So is a genetic connection with Venachy de Sanjay Muniano. Vermentino is a very widespread grape variety in Italy, in northwestern Italy, and in central Italy. It is produced with the DOCG that of Gallorde, the only DOCG, But there are sixteen DOC in different regions produced with this vine. Then there is Algaro, Bullieri, candia, Capalbio. Thus, many denominations of Central Italy of the Iranian coast are, let's say, interested in the use of this variety. In addition, it participates in the making of fifty six wines of Italy's I GT. In Decazion in geographical tipica. As I mentioned before, Vermentino is a rare grape variety of which we do not know the origin. Just think that of the more than one thousand varieties analyzed in the European research center, Vermantino belongs to two hundred and seventy six varieties, twelve percent of all known vines in the world. Thus, we have not been able to build the pedigree. There are some genetic relations. One, with Rosolo Bianca, present in Corsica. The genetic kinship with ferment of Hungarian origin is curious. Formant sounds familiar to the name of Foramentino. It is a synonym to that of the Vermentino in some valleys of Piedmont. And gives us a direct genetic relationship with petty massang of the Eastern Pyrenees. These are not, however, I would say, such precise relations, but more of a genetic belonging. It is a vine that I would say it's synonymous with vines such as Pigato in La Gauria, favorita, in Kimont, Horolo, in the nice area of France, Valentin, also from a small region in Eastern France, Bukalo, A synonym of Vermentino is present as a minor vine in the valley of Piacenza. In a valley that connected and still connects, the Po valley with the ligurian Sea, then along the Salt Road. Thus, Bukalo is a vine that may come from the sea and stopped in the valley of Piacenza. And then this ferment vine, this is a synonym with some of the valleys of Piedmont. How did Vermentino become such a prominent grape in Italy? The origin of this vine from a genetic perspective, but I would say also from the cultural point of view and production wise is linked to the Venaccia wines of the Republic of Genoa. Venaccia were the wines that contrasted the Malvasir from the Republic of Venice. Therefore, the Republic of Genoa produced the Venacha, and the Republic of Venice produced Malazir. And this is important because the spread of Vermentino happened because of the interest genoa had in producing these oxidative wines which were a bit different compared to the wines that were made instead in the Eastern Mediterranean under the Republic of Venice. So what does the plan require in terms of climate? It is a vine that in the popular conception is said to love the sea. It is a vine that loves the sea because it is a vine that is always very close to the coast. This is because it withstands drought well. Tollates salty winds, so it does not suffer the damage of these libetia winds bringing saline with them. Therefore, this is something very interesting in these coastal areas. It also withstands over ripening well. It can handle this because it tolerates rot well. Therefore, it can stay on the plant for a long time. What are the areas where Vermentino has grown? And what is it about these areas that makes them good for production? Of the Vermentino grown in Italy, eighty five percent is grown in Sardinia. Sardenia is the place where this vine is most widespread, particularly in Gallura and northeastern Sardinia. This part of Sardinia is very interesting from the geological standpoint because it is one of the oldest areas of origin in Europe. There are rocks that formed there about three hundred million years ago in the primary era, and is the result of very intense volcanic effusive activity that has given rise to the soils of granitic origin that in fact are the basis of Viticulture in this part of Sardinia. Galora is very rich in sands or even coarse materials of origin from the decomposition of granites. And this decomposition brings with it a great wealth of minerals that is not without finesse and influences the quality of Vermentino Di Galora. In another important era, Vermentino is not called Vermentino, but Pigato. Pigato is a name that indicates that this grape variety has spots on the berries. In fact, PIGau in Lagoria means speckled. And therefore, this image describes a bit of the morphological characteristic of the berries and is grown in three provinces. Legoria, a part of Geneva of Savona and Imperial. Which is the westernmost part of Bulgaria. It has also been cultivated in the eastern part, that of the Chincuero, but to a lesser degree. These lands are of sedimentary origin. They are not a volcanic origin. They contain very ancient sediments of the tertiary era. For soils that originated from the decomposition of conglomerates from particular fleece. They have a good content of sand that comes from the decomposition of these sandstones, the result of sea deposits, but of terra genius origin, and are characterized by the presence of mild and limestone. Thus, we have sub acidic soils in the eastern part, and more neutral soils in the western part. But all soils are of sedimentary origin, ancient soils containing components of clay and sand. The third pole of Vermontino is the Tuscon coast, a territory represented by a border line along the hills, along the sea, with altitudes ranging from two hundred and fifty, up to from sea level, about four hundred meters. And this area, at the sea edge, is fortunately conditioned by the climactic characteristics of the sea. Thus, under a fairly mild, but also very windy climate, very often this wind brings some salt with it, and this particular characteristic is of great significance. The specific light and air in this area is the basis of the quality of these wines. There are many terogenic soils. The length of coast is important because it starts practically from the hills of Looney and goes up to Groceto. These with a very different geological origin. Looney area soils are very ancient compared to those of the southern part. There is schist and Micah's schist in parts of Looney. Then, for the parts closer to Roseto, one gets soils of the pliocene and of the pleistocene. Therefore, the last era. In Livourno and Pisa, there are soils which at times become Marley or of Alberese clay limestone. Very similar in certain aspects to those of Kianti, at least in the more hilly parts inland. Therefore, Here, also, the disintegration of Fleish are instead more clay and mal, more recent in parts close to the sea. Could you talk a little bit please about Vermentino's sensory profile and its fenification? They are usually very perfumed wines. Let's also say aromatic because Vermentino is considered the most aromatic of Southern white wines, even though it is not an aromatic variety in itself. But it has a good content of terpene compounds. Also, it contains a substance called alpha terrapinoid, which is not present in grapes, but is formed in the wine during its evolution in the bottle. Therefore, it is an indicator, sensorially, and chemical, of the age of this wine. Usually, Vermentino is vinified reductively because it concentrates it to develop that aromatic thread Very similar to sauvignon. Because of its citrus notes, grapefruit, or fruity white peach or melon, these are its characteristics, especially of Vermentino near the sea. In the past, it had almost never been vinified alone but together with other varieties that could very often bring some acidity because it is a great variety that does not have great natural acidity. Thus, you have to be very careful since the pH can be very high. And this then presents problems for the aromatic profile during fermentation. Whilst there are fewer aromas, those present are very strong. They are also elegant, balanced. I was saying that white fruit is certainly the most perceived aroma. Apple and peach whereas most citrus notes and exotic fruits, such as pineapple, mango, also come through in the background. There is good minerality that develops over time in the bottle, mostly from Vermentino produced in Sardinia. The proximity to the sea, as I said before, is not to be forgotten. These flavors come through salty notes, which are present in wine when it is a few years old. It is a wine to be drunk naturally fresh but that has in some cases the possibility to be preserved and develop some very interesting tertiary aromas. Sometimes similar, also to the kerosene notes, oily notes, which make it very for a highly refined market such as with high quality restaurants. Of course, we can't wrap up without asking for some suggestions on food pairings. Well, of course, it is a wine of and for the sea. It is a wine for fish in all ways. Found in Sardinia and in the ligurian coast or the Tyranian coast. It is of course a summer wine, can be consumed not only with simple fish, but fried or baked fish. It is important not to neglect the importance of accompanying this dish with vegetables, or grilled vegetables, whichever way, cooked in the Mediterranean way with Mediterranean aromas such as eggplant or peppers. So it is certainly a wine to be used in, I would say, true Mediterranean cuisine. Perfect. Thank you to professoria Tilyocienza, for another fascinating lesson on Vermentino. One of the most important and widespread white grapes in Italy. I also wanted to remind our listeners about a new book that you wrote together with Sedena Imazio. We also had her on the show recently. The book is the official English language translation of an Italian best seller of yours and is entitled San Giovanni, Lambrusco, and other vine stories. It's a book about the history of the main Italian and European vines, and it's available to purchase on Amazon in Europe and worldwide on Kindle. I highly recommend it to our listeners who are studying wine. Thank you again, Atelio, and speak very soon for another exciting episode. About Italian wine. I thank the listeners for following what I've said, and of course I look forward to our next podcast session. Good morning. Listen to all of our pods on SoundCloud iTunes, iTunesify HimalayaFM, and on Italian Mind Podcast dot com. 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