Ep. 507 Innovation and Tradition | Jumbo Shrimp Guide to Italian Wine, International Grape Varieties

Welcome to the Italian wine podcast. I'm Rebecca Lawrence. And I am Yacupofan Shirley, and we are the authors of the jumbo sharing guide to Italian wine series. This show will generations of our second book in the series, the job mission guide to study online, international great varieties. We wrote this book for Curiswane lovers. Especially those who enjoy the idea of having a lighthearted entertaining crash course into this very Roll's topic. Join us as we journey through the world of Italian wine. Shaw. Hello, and welcome to this first installment of the second jumbo shrimp guide to Italian wine. International Great varieties in Italy presented by the Italian wine podcast. My name is Joy Livingston, and I'll be your narrator for this series. The Jungle Ship Guide to Italian wine International Great varieties in Italy is the new book from Positive Press, and if you're wondering how to get a copy of the book, the Kindle version will soon be available on Amazon, and the paperback will likewise be available from Positive Press dot net, donate to the Italian One podcast, and we'll send you a complimentary paperback copy of the book. Wait. I should rephrase that. It seems like last time I said this, a one dollar donation cost us thirty dollars to ship to to Pakistan. Seriously, not cool dude. So by donating a minimum of ten dollars to the Italian wine podcast, we'll send you a free copy of the book. Find details at italia wine podcast dot com, and remember to rate our show wherever you listen to your podcasts. Italy's position within the Mediterranean Sea lying between lands such as Greece and Spain close to Africa places it in the middle of ancient trade routes between the near east and the western Mediterranean. Trade has played a dominant role in its commercial history, beginning notably with the phoenicians and Greeks. Almost three thousand years ago and continuing more recently with the Venetian Republic, beginning about eight hundred years ago. It is no wonder that the movement of grape varieties here is an ancient phenomenon, a meeting place between the East and the west. Italy is uniquely placed, and the first evidence of the movement of foreign vines dates back to the ancient bronze age three thousand to four thousand BC when we see protoviticulture of local wild species taking place. However, perhaps the most significant contribution occurred during the first millennium BC with the Greek colonization in Southern Italy, the lands of the Magna Gracia. And later with the Spanish presence, especially in Sardinia and the kingdom of the two Sicilys officially, Sicily and Naples, but the name was applied to most of Southern Italy. It is therefore legitimate to ask ourselves what the term native vine or in scientific terms a talk actually means. If we stick to its etymological meaning of vine born in that place, perhaps in Italy, we actually have less native grape varieties than first thought. In fact, Most of them have either come from other countries or are the result of spontaneous cross breeding with foreign vines. If the nature of them being native is instead linked more to space than to time, then we must consider the question of how much time is necessary for a vine to be defined as a tokenous of a specific place. For example, this is something we discuss when we begin to concern ourselves with so called international varieties. Many of these varieties, especially those imported from France, arrived in Italy between the middle of the nineteenth century and the beginning of the twentieth century, and were at first cultivated almost experimentally. Following the replanting necessitated by the Filoxera epidemic, in some regions, these varieties became the protagonists of a new Viticulture. Famously, they became responsible for the birth of a new Italian wine in Tuscany. Indeed, this region has led the way in the use of these grape varieties. Starting from the mid nineteen sixties with the success of SASkaya and later Tignanello, the result of a continuous process of experimentation and transformation that has fronted, tradition, and helped open up Italian wine to a globalized marketplace. Compared to other typical sectors of the Italian economy linked to the territories such as cheeses or other PDO products. Wine has shown that the theme of local specificity does not imply localism. In addition to showcasing the terroir, the Italian wine producer has been able to put into play and ability to innovate and refine a deeply artisanal product. Such as wine. In the best sense of the word, also, unlike the countries where there has been a push for varietal labeling to help consumers know the grape first and foremost. In Italy, the international grape varieties have been used with the aim of maintaining the visibility of the various terawatts and often local grapes have been blended in to aid this with the view to always produce wines that are not reproducible elsewhere. Indeed, in Italy, the phenomenon of varietal labeling remains relatively rare, with producers still using their local denominations to promote their varieties. Thus, this sense of a vine born in that place is maintained despite these grapes being of foreign origin. The lesson of the great entrepreneurs of Italian wine from Antinori to Gaia from Planeta to Moretti lies in the way they wanted to enhance their terroir by combining a mode of experimentation and innovation while still maintaining a strong rootedness in the cultures and from there to conquer world markets. The clash between Viticulture and territory and Viticulture of Vine is overcome by finding innovative formulas to harness the positive elements of both models in an effort to compete in international markets. The possibility of associating wine to a territory to the gastronomic culture. To the beauty of landscapes in archaeological and architectural finds, to the people who work in the territory, is an element that transcends the varietal choice and gives to these wines considered alien in comparison to those of the natives. And authentic light and dignity. But what are international grape varieties? Of course, before we dive into this topic of international varieties, we should perhaps consider what an international variety actually is. According to the OIV, international organization of wine and wine, despite there being more than ten thousand known grapevine varieties in the world, one third of the world's vineyard area is covered by only thirteen varieties. When you look at fifty percent of the world's area under vine, this number only increases to thirty three varieties. Now these figures cover vineyard area rather than specifically focus on in how many places a grape is grown. However, it begins to give an indication as to how a set of varieties can come to rule the majority of global one production. A great example of this would be cabernet sauvignon. Originally a French grape variety flexing its muscles in Bordeaux. It has since become one of the most cultivated varieties in the world representing a little over five percent of the total area under divine across numerous countries. Such varieties that are planted in many different places around the world but have managed to adapt to local conditions to create quality wines are what we consider to be international varieties. Traditionally, the focus of wine writing about Italy has been on the numerous native grape varieties that are in most cases unique to the country. However, this has often been to the exclusion of grape wines and important appellations that are not led by native grapes, but by international ones. This book explores the many international grapes found in Italy. Looking at where they thrive, the styles of wine they produce, and in some cases, whether they should be considered international at all. Verietal spotlight on international grapes that are found in Italy. Give you its tranina. The grapes that is easier to smell than it is to spell. This is an extremely powerful aromatic wine. And in truth, the berries are more pink than they are white, giving finished wines a pleasing coppery tinge. There are various suggestions as to where this grape actually originated. Some think it might be from Italy, hence the reference to Tramin, a town in the north, others from Germany or Azas. But some research suggests it is actually an aromatic version of Sabanine. From the Jura region of France. Like its fellow aromatic varieties, it prefers cool climates so that it can have a long growing season to develop complex aromatic aromas and flavors. It is rarely blended, but it is found in different styles around the world from dry perfumed wines to rich sweet wines. Give you its can suffer from a fast drop in acidity after ripening. So harvest times are key to maintain balance whilst gaining the best aromatic profile. It is also a wine like one yay that has a rich and almost oily texture. Although, we don't know the exact origins, the biggest producer of wines from Givierz Tremina, is Alsas, and it is found in many places around the world such as New Zealand, Australia, Germany, and Eastern Europe. Karignan, Karignan, Another grape that could be either French and Spanish and origin, Karignan, is for sure a truly Mediterranean variety that loves the heat and needs it to ripen fully. Otherwise, it can yield rather rustic wines. It is a drought resistant variety and whilst it is mostly restricted to the southern European countries with global warming, increasing temperatures and lessening rain, it is beginning to be found in Australia, Chile, and California. Due to its slightly rough dick nature, it is usually blended, but given the right sight, old finds can produce exceptional long lived complex wines. Those of Priorats are key examples. This is a great variety that has found a spiritual home in Sardinia. Shining as a single variety wine, complex, concentrated, and long lived. It is genetically identical to or and has been linked to at least some samples of. Due to its high levels of rustic tannin, some winemakers choose to use carbonic or semi carbonic maceration to produce light, very fruity, easy drinking wines. Where in Italy? Sardinia and a small amount in lazio and Sicily. Tasting note. High tannins is a key character of this very dark black grape. It has aromas of tobacco and dark fruits. Such as black plum and bramble. Oak aging often helps round out the tannins and adds a delicious layer of smoke and spice. It is usually rich and full bodied, but examples from winemakers using carbonic maceration techniques are more delicate and fruity. Riesling. Riesling Renano. Finally, an international grape variety that doesn't come from Bordeaux or Burgundy. The origin of this grape is a little controversial. In some claim it is French from the Azas region, others believe it to be German from the Reingau. Either way, this is a grape that thrives in the cold. At lower latitudes, the climate must be moderated by altitudes or sea breezes. It should not be confused with riesling italia called Cruken in Australia and trusso. And California, which is in fact the Croatian grape, grassevina. It loves a long growing season, and this helps it to be one of the most versatile grape varieties when it comes to sweetness and style. It ranges from completely dry, sometimes austere mineral wines to extremely sweet wines and made from grapes that have been subjected to noble rot. Another aspect that aids this range is the extremely high acidity that is maintained no matter how late the grapes are harvested. One of the key differences between riesling and other international varieties is that this one is rarely blended. It is aromatic in particular and therefore doesn't tend to play well with others. To preserve its pure fruit character, winemakers rarely vinify riesling in new oak or employ Lee stirring. That said, this is a rare white grape variety that is suitable for long aging. Again, the high acidity that marks this grape is key here. As wines become concentrated in honey and famously develop a petal or kerosene note, but maintain their freshness. Where in Italy? Due to the love of the cold, the key areas for riesling in Italy are concentrated in the north or at altitude. Trentino Alto Adige, Trentino, Lombardia, Ultra, Piamonte, Lange, and Sicily, Aetna. Tasting note. The acidity truly is one of the stand out aspects of this variety and no matter the sweetness level chosen for the finished wine, there will still remain a distinct freshness. In the coolest climates, riesling is austere and mineral with notes of white flowers flint lemon and lime in warmer areas or with longer ripening, it becomes increasingly aromatic bordering on tropical showing apricot, melon, peach aromas, while preserving a floral element. With age, the wines develop honey, smoke, and not aromas, and of course it's characteristic, kerosene smell. Thank you for listening to this episode of the jumbo shrimp Guide to Italian wine, intern National grape varieties. The second and newest book in the jumbo shrimp series, we plan to continue bringing you more episodes each Thursday and remember, the kindle version of the book will soon be available on Amazon, and the paperback will like, be available from Positivepress dot net. Also, Ray R Show wherever you tune in, find Italian wine podcast on Facebook and Instagram. Our Twitter handle is at eat that wine pod cast. Check out at mama jumbo shrimp on TikTok.