Ep. 512 Bordeaux | Jumbo Shrimp Guide to Italian Wine, International Grape Varieties

Welcome to the timeline podcast. I'm Rebecca Lawrence. And I am Yacupufanshualli, and we are the authors of the jumbo sharing Guide to Italian wine series. This show will feature generations of our second book in the series, the jumbo sharing guide to Italian wine international grape varieties. We wrote this book Kurzwein lovers. Especially those who enjoy the idea of having a lighthearted entertaining crash course into this very broad topic. Jonas as we journey through the world of Italian wine. Hello, and welcome to another installment of the second jumbo shrimp guide to Italian wine. International great varieties in Italy presented by the Italian wine podcast. My name is Joy livingston, and I'll be your narrator for this series. The jungle shrimp Guide to Italian wine international grape varieties in Italy is the Nuba from positive press if you're wondering how to get a copy of the book, the kindle version will soon be available on Amazon, and the paperback will likewise be available from Positivepress dot net. Donate to the Italian wine podcast and we'll send you a complimentary paperback copy of the book. Wait. I should rephrase that. It seems like the last time I said this, a one dollar donation cost us thirty dollars to ship to to Pakistan. Seriously, not cool dude. So by donating a minimum of ten dollars to the Italian wine podcast, we'll send you a free copy of the Buck find details at italia wine podcast dot com, and remember to rate our show wherever you listen to your podcasts. The rise of international varieties in Italy. The presence of the so called international grape varieties is so important in world Viticulture that consumers do not think about them as a particular category. They have penetrated so deeply into wine culture that they shape it without us being fully aware of the associations we have about Chardonnay or cabernet sauvignon speaking of cabernet sauvignon, This was one of the first international varieties, along with Cabernet Franoux, Petiverleaux, Game, and pinot noir that has significant plantings in Italy, arousing curiosity and desire in many winemakers to experiment. Today, Cabernet sauvignon is present in forty three Italian provinces. The travels of grape varieties are not new, particularly in Europe. Here it is a very ancient phenomenon, and a few through the contribution of ancient Greece. It can be said that this silent invasion began with the introduction of certain varieties suitable for the production of sweet wines during the middle ages by the Venetians, specifically Malvasia or better yet the Marvasias, for example, that we will meet in later chapters after which we explore varieties coming from Spain. However, referring to international grape varieties in relation to Italy is quite recent and dates back to the nineteen eighties. At this time in Italy, a major project was started to try and recover the hundreds of native varieties that were present in the country, but remained practically unknown. Many of these varieties had been abandoned or forgotten. During the replanting that occurred after Phylloxera attacked Europe. It was the instituto di san michele in Trentino alto alije that at the beginning of the nineteen hundreds began to replace the old Italian varieties with those of French and partly German origin. And this became a generalized phenomenon that led in a few years to the replacement of dozens of old native vines. This replanting often focused on varieties that had been shown to grow successfully around the world. And produced some of the world's most famous and sought after wines. As the focus shifted back to varieties only found in Italy, these grapes from elsewhere became known as international varieties. It is possible that international varieties began to gain a name for themselves at the beginning of seventeen hundred in Tuscany for the production of the French style Claret and in with the introduction of However, it was the medici of Renaissance Florence, who in seventeen seventy three imported a large number of vines from different European countries to evaluate them on their farms. It was French varieties that first and foremost became important from the point of view of their role in the quality of Italian wines with the aim being to emulate the success of French wines in the world. At that time, France was the most important European economic military power. It was not simply this that drove the obsession with these varieties. Around this time, the most important families of the Piamonteze, Tuscant, and Sicilian nobility often attended French court where obviously French wines were consumed. These nobles took note of the flavors, styles, and winemaking, and began production of wines in these same styles on their properties in the late seventeen hundreds. France was already a powerhouse in terms of marketing its wines around the world. But in Italy, there was initially no talk of wines destined for foreign markets. Instead, these wines were produced privately so that notable families could enjoy them in the comfort of their homes. Wines they had grown accustomed to at court. Little did these families realize that these wines would grow to become some of the most prestigious and expensive wines, not only in Italy, But throughout the world, the early sixties of the last century were the decisive moment in the modern history of wine. A radical new idea was born at the same time in many different places, from California to Australia. South Africa to New Zealand, an international product born of technology and experience, which had the power to enchant and give pleasure to many wine consumers. In Italy, a few pioneering winemakers brave and visionary emulating the Americans and Australians through themselves into the competition for a global marketplace, helped by a cutting edge wine industry and comforted by consumers willing to spend on expensive quality wines. What are the reasons for the worldwide presence of international varieties? They can be summarized into three key points of which the success and fame of French wines is certainly the foundation. The international grape varieties, unlike the native ones, maintain their characteristics and are able to adapt to very different growing conditions. This flexibility towards the environment allows the production of wines that have familiar sensory characteristics that make them easily recognizable and traceable, even by consumers who have very little experience. Thus, it could be argued that a global style was born, giving a piece of a global market to any producer who could replicate the model. When you start exploring the topic of international grape varieties, you will quickly begin to see the familiar faces, the grapes. Cropping up again and again. Once you've spotted this, it won't take you long to then notice that many of these originated in the same place, the Bordeaux region in Southwest France. Thus, the question arises Why do so many international grape varieties come from Bordeaux? The answer quite simply is because of its location. Unlike other historical wine regions such as Burgundy, the Rhine Valley, even Piamonte, Bordeaux has one huge advantage. It's location along the Geronde estuary allowed Bordeaux to become a large and very successful port. The border lays capitalized on this direct access to trade with wealthy merchants packing their ships full of barrels of wine and sending them off to markets around the world as these wines traveled so did their reputation. Aided by their extensive aging ability and the eighteen fifty five classification that officially recognized the best chateau. The wine soon became collector's items, symbols of status, and forever establishing themselves as some of the most sought after in the world. Of course, once this happens, other wine regions begin to take note and given the very nature of international varieties, the grapes and wine making styles begin to migrate. As a result, we see the rise of the bordeaux blend around the world. Wines made using the same grapes as found in bordeaux, merlot, cabernet sauvignon, petivertaux, cabernet franc, using similar aging techniques, such as long periods in new French oak barrels, to soften the tannins and impart spicy flavors, but available often for a fraction of the price compared to the original icons. That said, some producers who aim to recreate the Bordeaux styles in their own countries have since become recognized in their own right as offering the very best expressions of these international varieties. A perfect example of this are Italy's famous super tuscan wines. These are often blends made from cabernet sauvignon, cabernet and or Merlo. Sometimes, with the addition of Tusany's native grape San Jose, that have become so world famous that they often command higher prices and more prestige than the more historical wines of the region. It's not just the most famous grapes from these Bordeaux blends that have made the voyage around the world. Other varieties that originated in the southwest of France, such as Malbec and Carminaire, for example, Have since become flagship varieties in South America. Here, the story is a little different as these grapes were not significant parts of the blends that gave Bordeaux its fame. Instead, they arrive first in Chile, As the local authorities brought in French expertise to help build the foundations of their winemaking culture and train their farmers. At this time, significant amounts of plant material were brought into Chile, and soon after Argentina. This included Cabernet. Sauvignon and Merlo, but also Malbec and carbonara, which found the conditions in these dry desert regions much more accommodating. These grapes fell out of favor in the southwest of France due to failure to ripen fully, poor yields or in the case of Malbec poor adaptation to American rootstocks and simple lack of demand, but they came into their own across the Atlantic. Malbec and Carminaire in South America maintained their asset profiles, but their tannins became softer and the flavor's riper and fleshier than they had achieved in Bordeaux and slowly but surely captured the attention of the global market. Now we find these grapes and wines beginning to join Bordeaux blends in their level of fame and recognition. And thus the grapes of bordeaux captured the attention of the world. Varietal spotlight on international grapes that are found in Italy. Carmonet. A natural cross between Cabo Nifron and Groul Cabernet. This grape originates in Bordeaux and was widely cultivated there in the eighteenth century. It has recently gained fame as the flagship variety of Chile. Where it was imported from Bordeaux and originally mistaken from Myrneau. It is suited to the cooler climate areas in Chile, which are influenced by coastal breezes or higher altitudes. Indeed, Some argue that with global warming, bordeaux would actually become too warm soon for the cultivation of this grape variety. These cooler areas allow for an extended growing season, which helps physiological ripeness keep pace with sugar ripeness. Harvesting time is particularly important to avoid unpleasantly green aromas and flavors or as stringent tenants. Kalimanea also dislikes rain during the ripening period. As this exacerbates the green pepper character, This is yet another reason why it has found its spiritual home in the cool but dry climate of Chile. It partners well with cabernet sauvignon, which coincidentally is one of the other most grown varieties in the South American region. Where in Italy? Lombardia and some pockets in the Venetal are where we find key plantings of carbonara. Known for its very deep color, these wines are often deep purple in hue, and indeed their fruit profile reflects this. Blueberries, and blue plums are keenly present alongside a tart green capsicum that can lend a pleasingly bitter counterpoint to these wines. These wines can age well and develop a rich savory character when they do. Peritivoldo. Another black grape that comes from Bordeaux. Are you sensing athenia? But then as now, it has never really dominated plantings due to its extreme herbal character. Wineemakers refer to the petiver dough as the salt or seasoning in a blend, where just a small pinch adds a huge punch to the blend. It is a late ripening variety, even later than cabernet sauvignon and struggles to reach full physiological ripeness in moderate and cool climates, where it may show an excessively herbal or weedy character. In fact, in Bordeaux, it is said to only reach its full potential one year out of five. Although with climate change, this is of course less often the case. It has very thick skins, so it can also contribute a lot of color and tannins to blends. Where in Italy? Tuscany is the true home of Putti Valddo in Italy, but there are some plantings in lazio. Some critics have suggested that if aged long enough, this is a variety that can develop a more delicate floral aroma, such as violet, However, in typical wines, it demonstrates black fruit complimented by a clear herbaceous note. The thick skins mean that wines are deeply colored and often strongly panic with a very tart acidity. For all of these reasons, finding wines made purely with is where, even now. Thank you for listening to this episode of the jumbo shrimp guide to Italian wine International Great varieties. The second the newest book in the jumbo shrimp series, we plan to continue bringing you more episodes each Thursday and remember the handle version of the book will soon be available on Amazon, and the paperback will likewise be available from Positivepress dot net. Also, Ray R Show wherever you tune in, find Italian wine podcast on Facebook and Instagram. 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