Ep. 422 Sangiovese Lambrusco... | Sangiovese!

Welcome to the Italian wine podcast. My name is Joy Living in. And for the next several weeks, I will be bringing you some choice narrated content from the book San Jose, Lambrusco, and other vine stories written by mister Science himself, Professor Atigio Shenza, and Serena Eimaccio. Published by positive press dot net. To get a copy of the book, the kindle version is available on Amazon and hardcover copies are available from positive press. If you like the content we share each week, consider donating to our show. Find details at italian wine podcast dot com or on our social media channels. Sit back and get your geek on as we jump into the details stories and science of Italian wines and vines. Chapter seven, the contested son, San Giovanni. Searching for origins. Son Jose is depicted in a famous painting of the late seventeenth century by Barto Melbi, a florentine painter, by the name of San Joieto. While Cosimo Trinci, the Tuscon agronomist speaks of San Duvedo as a most beautiful quality grape. Each year it is infinitely abundant. Seventeen twenty six. San Jose is also cultivated in Corsica under the name of Nialucio and has recently been found in Algeria with the local name of Lactari. It was in two thousand and two that we began to talk about the parents of San Jose. And to this day, the discussion is still going on. The first goal was to identify a first degree kinship with but without clarifying which variety generated the other. This opens the hunt for the missing link, which is essential to resolve the parent child trio. Finding this bind, however, has proven to be a more difficult task than expected due to excess of candidates. In two thousand and seven, the initial theory proposed was Sandroveza could be the son of Chileiolo and Calabrade de Montinuevo. A variety identified in Montinuevo in the province of Naples where it was imported by the Strigari family. Originally from the Albania enclave of Calabria and it arrived in, Fligrayan fields in the first half of the nineteenth century. The satisfaction over this discovery, however, was short lived Because an in-depth study also carried out in two thousand and seven on the largest and most prestigious collection of vine varieties in the world in Vasalle Montelier France completely overturned that idea and identify San Jo Vazena as a son, but as the parent of Chile Golo. Together with Muscat Roche de Mada or Moscato Violetto. This second proposal had greater support, also because the parents of the Muscaruj de Madre was also identified and do not contradict this theory. And moreover, Chile Agolo appears in the literature long after San Jose in nineteen thirty two against fifteen ninety of the second. In two thousand and ten, with the two thousand and seven hypothesis, Still in Vogue, the results of a further study on the collection of varieties by the Institute of Corneliano came out confirming the work of the French group. But we are still a long way from reaching a definitive conclusion. In two thousand and twelve, another group of researchers, although not excluding definitively the previous hypotheses, identified another possible trio. SandroVese could be the son of Chileiolo and Negro Dolce, an old local variety from the province of Foggia. The case remains unresolved to this day. The numerous offspring of a contested sun. Whereas its ancestors tree remains an unanswered question. What has been discovered is that San Jose has Progyny scattered over a rather large area. The first degree kinship parent's son concerns not only the minor vines of Tuscany. As was foreseeable on the basis of its geographical spread, a couple of Morlini, the Vernacha del valdarno, and the round leaf. But above all, the well known variety teas of Southern Italy such as Gallio Podi Calabria, Perricone, Frrapato, Nerelomascalese, and other minor varieties in Sicily. Even more surprising was to the cover that the Apullienne Negro dolce corresponds to that Moreno del valdarno located in Tuscany. In this way, the plot thickens and the puzzle becomes even more complex. Orsara, in the province of Foggia, is at the crossroads of three regions, Campania, Pulia, and basilicata. In the territory of the Downy mountains, its history is thousands of years old, and with evidence of neolithic settlements and Abies and farmhouses, a legacy of Roman and Longo bar times. Here, beginning with a vine of the same name, there is a tucanez wine produced whose DNA was found to be consistent with San Jose. The tucanez denomination was used to define not only San Jose but also related varieties. The CREA Council for research in agriculture and agricultural economics in Turi Body has preserved a vine called Tucanese. Which was related to the first degree with San Jose, and that probably could be one of the many descendants. Despite numerous attempts to go unnoticed, Genetics and molecular biology have managed to track down San Giovanni, even where there were no suspects. For example, in Calabria, in some old, almost abandoned vineyards, some strains have been identified such as Calabrian Negrello, Vigna Delconte, Corintanera, whose DNA corresponds to that of San Jose. The overlap with Corintanera allows us to investigate the case of the cultivation of a vine of the same name without seeds grown in the aiolian islands. Corintanaera was used in blending with Marvasia of leipzig. Cortintanera has a Greek name. The Corintiaki, although Synonomy has never been verified. It was always imagined that the two varieties were the same thing. In fact, turned out to be a variant of San Jose that lost in part the ability to develop seeds. This is not an isolated case. Similar variants have recently been identified in other varieties including Hoynish Vais, which was discussed in chapter three. We can imagine that the exchange of identity between San Jose Corinto was a mistake because the latter is notoriously characterized by clusters with grapes of very small size and unable to produce seats. Historically, the name of this variety in the aeolian islands is Minutera or Pasadena with reference to the small size of the berries and their use as raisins whose trade was particularly profitable. The correspondence of the black aioli in corinth with San Duviso was particularly difficult to imagine. Also because it does not appear that the latter has ever been cultivated on the Sicilian archipelago Islands. In two thousand fourteen, Deloresis and colleagues in a survey of sicilian varietal heritage carried out through DNA analysis identified San Giovanni under the curious name of In Paler Mittano and de preventivo in Messina. In addition, recent studies by Bransanti and colleagues in two thousand and ten show that San Jose and Chilia Dolo are widely present in ancient vineyards of the Aetna area, but without being recognized as such. In fact, they are mixed and confused with Narello capucho and several other plants whose identity has yet to be ascertained. The amount of information coming from the molecular investigations, mostly unexpected, opens up a rightful reflection of the origins of San Jose. There is a concordance of origins. Many of the vines related to sangiovese come from the southern part of Italy. It pushes us to look at this area as the possible cradle from which it would then have moved to Tuscany and Emilia romagna. Another clue, San Jose is sometimes called Calabrioze in some areas of Tuscany. Thank you for listening to this week's installment of San Jose Lambrusco and other vine stories. We hope you expanded your horizons and gave your brain cells an Italian wine workout. We'll see you again next Thursday and remember the kindle version of the book is available on Amazon and hardcover copies are available from positive press dot net. If you feel inspired to make a donation to our show, please visit us at the Italian wine podcast dot com. Find Italian wine podcast on Facebook and Instagram. Our Twitter handle is at ita wine podcast.