Ep. 1035 Elise Rialland | Wine, Food & Travel With Marc Millon

Welcome to the Italian wine podcast. This episode has been brought to you by the wine to wine business forum twenty twenty two. This year, we'll mark the ninth edition of the forum to be held on November seventh and eighth of twenty twenty two in Verona Italy. This year will be an exclusively in person edition. The main theme of the event will be all around wine communication. And tickets are on sale now. The first early bird discount will be available until August twenty second. For more information, please visit us at wine to wine dot net. Welcome to this special five star wines and wine without walls series on wine food and travel with me, Mark Millen, on Italian wine podcast. For the next weeks, we will be focusing on a dozen trophy winning wineries from the competitions that took place in verona at the start of Min Italy in early April. The winning wines are without doubt some of the very best that Italy has to offer. What I'm most interested in discovering are the stories behind the bottles, learning about the wines themselves, of course, and also about the people who make them. Where they're from, what they eat, how they live. It's a fascinating journey that will take us all across Italy, and I hope you will join me. Welcome to wine food and travel with me, Mark Millen, on Italian wine podcast. In this special five star wines and wine without walls addition, I'm delighted to shine a spotlight on Casale Delginio located south of Rome in the region of Latio. Kazani Deljidio winery entered a number of wines in five star wines this year, all of which received outstanding scores. So I'm delighted to welcome export director, Elise Realan. How are you today, Elise? Hi, Mark. I'm very good. Thank you. Great. Well, the aim of of my show is really to give an insight of the story behind the bottles in five star wines. So to help our listeners understand better where where Casale delguil is. Can you describe your area where you are and just give our paint a picture for our listeners so they can get an understanding of exactly where you are. Sure. So, Casa del gio is in the Lati region, as you just said. It's, located some fifty kilometers south south of Rome in an area called Agropuntino. We are, right in the middle between the seaside and the hills. And, yes. And I'm imagining right now, you know, you're in the full heat of summer. Is that right? Oh, yes. Absolutely. I think this year, the summer begin, like, beginning of May, early May, and we are still in, facing a heat wave. Yes. Totally. Oh my goodness. I mean, we've actually been having a heat wave here in England and did forty degrees in London this week. I heard that. I heard that. Yeah. Yeah. It's been crazy. So I'm imagining it's even hotter where you are south of Rome, but beautiful. With the seaside, not far away, and the hills where the vines grow. So I'm imagining for our listeners a really special place. It is. It is. Yes. Now the history of Casale Delgino is also the history of the Santarelli family. Can you tell us a little bit about the story of of the of the estate and how it's about? Yeah. So the the Casale de Gilio is a family owned, winery. Antonio Centarelli is the actual owner the story began with his great grandfather. He was already, a wine lover when he decided in the early, nineteenth century to create his own, society of, wine and oil business. He owned a fifth fifteen different shops, in Rome, of selling wine and and olive oil. And then after that, his son, which is the father of Antonio right now, has discovered this area in the Agropuntino and just fall in love with this area and decided to buy this estate, Casale did with hasid is now, Casale delguio in nineteen sixty seven. So we have recently celebrated the century of wine of the Century Family. Okay. So that's amazing. So it really began, and the estate began as a way to supply wine to the shops in Rome that they've families still alone? Exactly. And they were all also, selling wines, abroad to Canada, for example, to the army. So, yes, there was already, in your new exports. Business too, but also of local wines. Okay. So that was really one of the, an early example of taking Italian wines and and taking them around the world. Yes. Yes. Now this is, of course, an area south of Rome where the grapevine has been cultivated since the Roman times, if not earlier. So we're talking about a very historic part of Italy. It is. Even though our area has, a history, a specific history because we were, we are in an area, until the thirties, this area going towards South to Ozilatina, and Naples were all merchants. So they I've they've all been drained in the thirties So we can consider our area, the Agropuntino. In this, in the early thirties, it was all virgin. It was an explored area. But as I said, the father of Antonio Santale, Santale, really fall in love with this area. And I think he forced so a great potential down there. So he wanted to, found out all the the the potential, and if they decided in nineteen eighty five to launch a big project of research and fermentation. So they decided to plant fifty seven different kind of grapes just to see which were the grapes that adapted best to this territory. Out of those grapes, they were obviously Italian grapes, local grapes, but not not only local from Northern Italy, from Trentino, but also international grapes, like French grapes or Spanish grapes. And this has been a huge project. First of all, for Casa del gio, because that's how the range really started. Out of those, sixties, fifty seven grapes, we have selected one third that had been replanted and that are now part of the range of Casa dello. But it has been also very important for many producers around us to discover that grapes like vieux nay or Petim and Seng or Petiverdo or the Sierra or the Temporinilio, for example, would have found such a good territory here, to to grow and to get into the become really excellent wines. Well, that's a fascinating story. Really interesting that as you say, although it's an ancient wine land, the marshes had to be drained something that happened during the time of mussolini, I suppose. That was Exactly. Yes. Yes. Marsha's were drained and lands reclaimed, and then the family saw the potential to make quality wise. Exactly. Exactly. And Also, quite, quite, quite a lot of foresight to be bringing in international grapes rather than just concentrating on the native grapes. Yeah. So the international grapes were the biggest surprise of this project that was held in eighty five. And, but then in in the last fifteen years, we also wanted to rediscover some local grapes that sometimes were a little bit under estimated. And, so, now today, the winemaker likes to consider Casela Delgillo as a flower, and then we have different petals. So the first one is on the island of Ponsa, where we went there, some fifteen years ago to rediscover the Biankola, which is a local graves originally from the island, of iskia, but that was brought by the province also to Posa. So we have, some small, lens there, and we have rediscovered this biancolella, which is be really special. And after that, we, wanted to rediscover also the balloon in the area of Anseo. So Anseo is another of this petal of the the flower. And, the bologna, which is really special in the area of Anseo. Anseo with a very sandy soil. Those as an engraft engrafted vines, like, two hundred meters from the seaside. And other petals is also in Olyván Romano, where there is a located area for the Chizanese. And, the last but not the least, as you know, the Santarelli family, is, has its origin in Amatriche. And, we have a project that is now, on the Picrino in the area of Amatriche. So those are all, like, satellites, projects. That are now totally parts of the range of Casa del gio. So we have international graves thanks to this project that have, been held on this virgin land, but also many longer braves that have been rediscovered, with a real success. Well, that's a really fascinating story. I didn't know about the Bianco Leila on the island of Ponsa. Where is Ponsa? I can't I don't know the island. And can't quite picture where it is. Is it just off the coast from you? Exactly. Exactly. Yes. Those are the Montana Islands. Is one of the of the biggest Venton. Those are all islands, just in front of the of the coast. Just, quite in front of us, actually. Okay. So beautiful islands to visit in the summertime, I guess? Oh, absolutely. Absolutely. Yeah. Actually, in Pungsa, we it is in a heroic, viticulture. Those are all terraces. It's very he, it's an old volcanic island. So that's very it's fascinating. Okay. And that's the origin and the first origin, original, territory of the Dumpjiankulele is ischa. So, actually, they are quite similar island. Yes. Okay. So a fresh style of white to enjoy with the seafood of the island Yes. Of course. Yes. You can almost feel the the seaside in your mouth. Right? It's very, like, almost saltiness. Very yes. Yes. Very fresh and crispy. Belone, is an, an important grape, a a grape that was at risk of disappearing. I'm interested to hear of the ungrafted vines planted in sand. Of course, Filocera can't penetrate the sandy soil. So you're able to have ungrafted vines. And this is a grape that's capable of producing well structured and and really interesting white wines. Exactly. Exactly. So Italian wine podcast brought to you by mama jumbo shrimp. As I told you, this area is really two hundred meters from the sea. So the soil is totally sandy, and it has prevented the the, the diffusion of the philosophy. So those are engrafted fines that are almost sixty and seventy years old. And the this this baloney is really is really interesting. The winemaker has, for so, in this great, great aging potential. So that's why, next to our regular, regular production of, of the baloney, which is also the antium made from this hundred percent baloney grade. He has decided to, test the longevity of the balloon with another with a reservoir, who ages, twenty four months in Oak, and then eight months in Amphora, in terracotta and fora. And this is our radix. That's a very special, wine. And, obviously, the the anfora has, exalted, has made this this this longevity that the winemaker really tries to get to its wine. So it's not oxidation. But it's really this oxygenation has made this one really, really special. Okay. So, again, going back to almost Roman traditions with the aging of the wine in terracotta. The acidity of the Bellone, I guess, allows that aging, as well as the structure of it. Yes. Exactly. Exactly. I think it's one of the characteristic. If we can, you know, talk about, Paulo, Tifen Tyler, which is our winemaker. And this year's gonna be his thirty fifths wine, harvest at the winery. So it's a long term relationship, but he's from Tarantino. And he really tries to, get all his white with, this great acidity, a good minerality, and he wants his wife to have this aging potential, definitely. And I would say that, the reds, he really tries He whole always says that it's very easy in our area to get very, powerful reds, very, quite jammy fruit, reds, but he really wants his red instead to be very elegant. To have fine tannins. And this is definitely, his, his characteristic on a on our range, and our wines. Yes. Well, tell us about, the native red variety, then, Chezonese. Again, not so well known for many of our listeners, but a grape that's really fascinating, his huge potential, and is capable of making truly great red wine. Yes. Absolutely. It's such a pity really that those grades. Such great grapes are, underestimated. Luchizonese is an historical grape for the lazio. It's actually a DLC and EOCG in the lazio. So we it as an IGT, because where we are, obviously, it's IGT, but the grapes come from, a vacated area. We are, specifically in the Olievano Romano area, which is, just on the top of the hills. We are, like, three, four hundred meters above, the level of the sea. It's such a nice, fruity and cherry, grape, really. Obviously, here, the hand of the winemaker is adding something special because we have it aging in cherry woods. So that will also help on this, flavor on this, fine tannins and on the cheriness that is very characteristic of that grape. But here again, a very good acidity. So those are, really with a great aging potential. Oh, that's really interesting. The cherry wood to enhance that, that delightful fruit that that comes through in the wine. But with still, that potential to age and evolve and develop in the bottle. So, Elise, tell me about a few more of wines from international, maybe one or two of the more important wines and a representative of Casa del Jeanio. Sure. I think, the best seller ever, and if you ever go to to room, you will definitely have the opportunity to taste our Sartrigo. The Sartrigo is, a white wine, which is a blend of chardonnay, sauvignon, and Tribiano. So, obviously, the sauvignon would be for the aromatic part, the chardonnay, for the body, and the, a tribunal linked together, the the the the the other grapes. But this is definitely the most most characteristic wine of, of the wineries, very fresh, it's, food friendly, perfect for the aperitivo, but also for, first dish is, you know, like Italian pasta. And, it's just like a summertime wine that that you can really enjoy all year long. I think the second one that has to really be, be told about would be the mater Matura mater Matura is, the top of our range. I would say the flagship of the winery. It's a blend of eighty five percent Sierra and fifteen petivador. It ages twenty four months in new oak barrels, and then another couple of year aging and bottle. I think Mattel Matuta for powder for our winemaker really was meant to express, the excellence of the territory. That's why if there might there might be some years in which the quality of the grapes, if the if the quality doesn't reach the level of perfection that the winemaker wants for this wine, then we would rather not produce, the Matura Matura rather than to have, you know, like a sauce. So Matura Matura Matura has to be, like, perfect. So it's very, yes, it's a very emblematic wine, and I want also say two words about the name mater Matura Matura is the name of a goddess of fertility, and own. And we have the temple of this goddess just in front of the winery. So, actually, we have an archaeological site Beneath, the vineyard. It's, fascinating projects that we have with an oncologist, Maureka Nieves. She's a professor from the University of Amsterdam, and it's been now more than thirty five years that every summer, she comes back with her students to keep on some diggings. So we actually have, some excavations just in the middle of the vineyard of, some four, five centuries, before Christ. So we have there was a city of Satricom and a sacred route leading to the temple of mater Matota. So that's really fascinating. And during the summertime, we can follow the the diggings, which are really, really something special. Wow. That is absolutely fascinating. A fascinating link between wine and history. A link between your flagship wine, mater Matuta, and, and, of course, this ancient civilization. Yes. And that's only, we have another wine, the the Chizonese, which on the on the on the label, We have a Skifos, which was a ceramic goblets that were used already four centuries before Christ to drink wine, and that has been found, during excavation just under I wind the the vineyard. So that's really, a great experience for all of us. Yes. Oh, that's fabulous. I love that. Now, at least, can we turn our attention to the cuccina of Latio, and particularly of, of the Latina area and of your area south of Rome. Are there your your wines are all very food friendly? So let's talk about some of the dishes that pair particularly well with some of your wines. Sure. So as I say, we are just by the sea. So, obviously, all about, fishes and shellfish or raw fish, our wines just fit perfectly, with those as I said, we also have some wine made really on the seaside. So those are really perfect. And I would think about the South Rico, also the viewing. Obviously, the below in a handium, handium. Those are really perfect for those kind of of pairing. Are there particular seafood dishes that are typical of your area? Any piazza del marre that are really typical. The one What are, you know, we have in spaghetti which is very special. There is a typical I love that. Yeah. There is a typical crab pasta dish, in the island of Ponsa, which is very characteristic too, and which is perfect, pairing with the biancolella, obviously, and, some raw fish or local fish, that is just perfect with with our wines. And, obviously, we are just by Rome. So a lot of Roman dishes, have their perfect pairings with a wine. We think about, you know, the grisha or a matriciana, the grisha, also the auntie I told you about pairing with the, you know, seafood, but It's also perfect with the grisha because it has a nice acidity that we really cleans out, the mouth from the, the the the the one, right, the pork cheek. Yeah. On the Amatriciana, which is the grisha with the tomato sauce, our rosselle, the albiola is really perfect, a perfect pairing. Then other dishes would be like the Abaccio. For the Scotalito. For example, is perfect with, with our Petivo. You know, we have a pure Petivo. We were the first one to make it pure in Italy and to get the IGT for this French variety. So, yes, it would be perfect pairing with the with the lamb. The abut, you know, the baby lamb, Scott, theito that burns your fingers when you pick it up. Yes. Exactly. Because you have to you have to eat it with your hands. Right? Yeah. Absolutely. Yeah. And we have a special pairing with our, big Matt and Matuta too. There is a local provolade cheese made from buffalo milk and that we have it. We have age in aging Sierra promises. So it gets really, like, a drink and this perfect pairing with, Matel Matouda, actually. Yeah. Amazing. And I imagine also, the Carnegie Bouffula would be good with the bigger red ones Exactly. For example, there is a, which is really perfect with the, yes, absolutely. Okay. Well, these are dishes that people have to come to the area to experience and discover. Now tell us a little bit about wine, vitality at Kazane Delgin. You. Is that important to you? And what can visitors expect? Well, of of course. Yes. So, you know, we are, as I said, we are, like, forty minutes away from Rome. So, obviously, a lot a lot of tourists get the opportunity of visiting, the eternal city and to have, a wine experience too. So we have a lot of, wine lovers. We regularly organize almost daily, those, guided tours and tasting, all around the winery. And we told back, obviously, the story. We go into the vineyard, from the rooftop of the winery so that you have a three hundred sixty grades view of all the vineyards. So we had the winery is quite large. A hundred and eighty hectares. So from the rooftop, you can, you know, c o, which is very nice. I think the area is really deserve, you know, this, this special attention. And, the all the area, you may know that just not far from the winery. We have the, Ninfa Gardens, which are, unesco heritage. And, so those are all, you know, specialty that we have in the territory that really deserve the wine lovers to go there and to discover our unexplored territory that has so much to to give to to tourists to tourists. Wonderful. And I guess it's also close enough to come out on a day trip from Rome. Absolutely. Totally. Yeah. It's a forty minute drive, so it's very it's very easy. And then, you know, after, the visit of the winery, you can, you know, go to the seaside. They are just beautiful beaches with the the Chircello areas about those are all very nice spots, just, just the under winery. Yeah. Oh, that sounds wonderful. And I'd love to visit you one day myself. Yeah. It would be lovely. It's been a real pleasure talking to you today. Thank you so much for being my guest, and I hope we can meet some time in the near future. Thank you, Mark. So I can't wait to see you and to welcome you and the winery and also the my lovers that we'd like to discover our fantastic and unique wines from the Latio agro Buentino. Thank you, Elise. We hope you enjoy today's episode brought to you by the wine to wine business forum twenty twenty two. This year, we'll mark the ninth edition of the forum to be held on November seventh and eighth. Twenty twenty two. In verona Italy, remember the first early bird discount on tickets will be available until August twenty second. For more information, please visit us at white to wine dot net. Hi, guys. I'm Joy Livingston, and I am the producer of the Italian wine podcast. Thank you for listening. We are the only wine podcast that has been doing a daily show since the pandemic began. This is a labor of love and we are committed to bring you free content every day. Of course, this takes time and effort not to mention the cost of equipment, production, and editing. We would be grateful for your donations, suggestions, requests, and ideas. For more information on how to get in touch, go to Italianwine Podcast dot com.