Ep. 2516 Riccardo Giorgi and Adeline Maillard of Cián du Giorgi winery in Cinque Terre | Wine, Food & Travel with Marc Millon
Episode 2516

Ep. 2516 Riccardo Giorgi and Adeline Maillard of Cián du Giorgi winery in Cinque Terre | Wine, Food & Travel with Marc Millon

Wine, Food & Travel with Marc Millon

November 4, 2025
3102.537
Riccardo Giorgi and Adeline Maillard
Wine, Food & Travel
wine

Episode Summary

<think> I need to create a concise content analysis of the provided podcast transcript about Cinque Terre winemaking, following the specified format. Let me first understand what I'm analyzing and then organize my thoughts according to the required structure. The text is a podcast transcript featuring an interview with Riccardo Giorgi and Adeline Maillard of Cián du Giorgi winery in Cinque Terre. They discuss their journey from working in Bordeaux to returning to Cinque Terre to revive traditional winemaking practices in this challenging but beautiful region. Let me identify the key themes from this transcript: 1. **Heroic Viticulture**: The podcast emphasizes the extreme difficulty of winemaking in Cinque Terre due to the steep terrains, manual labor requirements, and lack of mechanization. The hosts describe having to work vineyards that are only accessible by foot, with some plots requiring them to lie on their backs to harvest grapes. 2. **Traditional Winemaking Methods**: The discussion highlights traditional techniques like pergola bassa (low trellising system), field blends of multiple grape varieties in single plots, and the production of Sciacchetrà (a sweet passito wine) using ancient methods. 3. **Preservation of Heritage**: There's a strong theme of preserving ancient vineyards, traditional knowledge, and local grape varieties that were at risk of being lost. The hosts specifically mention saving 100+ year old vines and rediscovering nearly forgotten grape varieties. 4. **Connection to Terroir**: The podcast emphasizes how the unique geography (steep slopes falling into the sea), microclimate, and even sea spray contribute to the distinctive character of Cinque Terre wines. 5. **Challenges of Modern Winemaking in Cinque Terre**: The hosts discuss the logistical difficulties, the impact of tourism, and the economic challenges of maintaining vineyards in this UNESCO-protected area. Now for the summary (max 200 words): The podcast features Riccardo Giorgi and Adeline Maillard, who left successful careers in Bordeaux to revive traditional winemaking in Cinque Terre. They describe the "heroic viticulture" required in this steep coastal region where all work must be done manually due to inaccessible terrain. Their approach focuses on preserving ancient vineyards (some over 100 years old), traditional techniques like pergola bassa trellising, and nearly lost local grape varieties (Bosco, Albarola, Vermentino). They emphasize field blending - where different grape varieties are planted together in single plots according to micro-terroir conditions - rather than blending in the cellar. A significant portion discusses Sciacchetrà, the region's prized sweet passito wine made from sun-dried grapes using meticulous, labor-intensive methods. The hosts explain how sea spray, altitude variations, and southeast-facing slopes create unique conditions that influence wine character. Despite challenges from tourism and the physical demands of the work, they're committed to preserving Cinque Terre's viticultural heritage, with wines that reflect the region's "thin, elegant, but very intense" character mirroring local cuisine. Key takeaways (max 6 points): - Cinque Terre winemaking requires "heroic viticulture" with all work done manually due to steep, inaccessible terrain - Traditional pergola bassa trellising (grapes grown just 50cm high) protects vines from wind and sun - Field blending of multiple grape varieties in single plots is a traditional practice based on micro-terroir - Sciacchetrà, the region's prized sweet wine, requires meticulous hand-selection and months of drying grapes - Sea spray deposits minerals on vines, contributing to the distinctive saline character of the wines - Many ancient vineyards and local grape varieties were at risk of being lost before young winemakers returned Notable quotes (max 3): - "When you are too tired, you take a breath, you sit on the rock and you look to see and immediately energy flow inside you, looking the landscape and touching the soil." - "The blend was already down because the blend has been made in the vineyard, not in the cellar." - "Shaqatra is not only sweet wine... There is a region, there is soil, there are minerality. Stones, salty aroma from the sea. There are tunnels because it's made with the skins." Follow-up questions (max 3): 1. How are winemakers in Cinque Terre adapting to climate change, particularly regarding the increasing sugar levels in grapes at lower elevations? 2. What specific challenges do UNESCO protections present for vineyard restoration and maintenance in Cinque Terre? 3. How are younger generations being encouraged to continue these labor-intensive winemaking traditions in an era of mass tourism? Let me now check if I've stayed within the word limits and followed the required format. For the key themes, I have 5 points which is the maximum allowed. For the summary, I need to ensure it's under 200 words. For key takeaways, I have 6 points which is the maximum. For notable quotes, I have 3 which is the maximum. For follow-up questions, I have 3 which is the maximum. Let me now write the final content analysis in the required format. </think> **Content Analysis** **Key Themes (max 5 points)** 1. Heroic viticulture requiring extreme manual labor due to Cinque Terre's steep, inaccessible terrain 2. Preservation of ancient vineyards and nearly lost local grape varieties (Bosco, Albarola, Vermentino) 3. Traditional techniques including pergola bassa trellising and field blending of multiple varieties 4. The cultural significance and meticulous production of Sciacchetrà, the region's prized passito wine 5. The profound connection between terroir (sea spray, altitude variations, southeast-facing slopes) and wine character **Summary (max 200 words)** The podcast features Riccardo Giorgi and Adeline Maillard, who left successful careers in Bordeaux to revive traditional winemaking in Cinque Terre. They describe the "heroic viticulture" required in this steep coastal region where all work must be done manually due to inaccessible terrain—some vineyards require lying on one's back to harvest grapes. Their approach focuses on preserving ancient vineyards (some over 100 years old), traditional techniques like pergola bassa trellising, and nearly lost local grape varieties. They emphasize field blending—where different grape varieties are planted together in single plots according to micro-terroir conditions—rather than blending in the cellar. A significant portion discusses Sciacchetrà, the region's prized sweet passito wine made from sun-dried grapes using meticulous, labor-intensive methods requiring three stages of selection. The hosts explain how sea spray deposits minerals on vines, southeast-facing slopes provide ideal sun exposure, and altitude variations (from sea level to 600m) create distinctive wine profiles. Despite challenges from tourism and physical demands, they're committed to preserving Cinque Terre's viticultural heritage, with wines reflecting the region's "thin, elegant, but very intense" character that mirrors local cuisine. Their work represents a revival of traditions nearly lost to industrialization and Phylloxera. **Key Takeaways (max 6 points)** - Cinque Terre winemaking requires "heroic viticulture" with all work done manually due to steep, inaccessible terrain - Traditional pergola bassa trellising (grapes grown just 50cm high) protects vines from wind and sun while requiring back-breaking labor - Field blending of multiple grape varieties in single plots is a traditional practice based on micro-terroir conditions - Sciacchetrà production involves meticulous hand-selection and months of drying grapes with three stages of quality control - Sea spray deposits minerals on vines, contributing to the distinctive saline character of the wines - Many ancient vineyards were at risk of being lost before young winemakers returned to preserve this heritage **Notable Quotes (max 3)** - "When you are too tired, you take a breath, you sit on the rock and you look to see and immediately energy flow inside you, looking the landscape and touching the soil." - "The blend was already down because the blend has been made in the vineyard, not in the cellar." - "Shaqatra is not only sweet wine... There is a region, there is soil, there are minerality. Stones, salty aroma from the sea." **Follow-up Questions (max 3)** 1. How are winemakers adapting to climate change impacts, particularly regarding increasing sugar levels in grapes at lower elevations? 2. What specific challenges do UNESCO protections present for vineyard restoration and maintenance in Cinque Terre? 3. How are younger generations being encouraged to continue these labor-intensive winemaking traditions amid mass tourism pressures?

About This Episode

The speakers discuss their experience working in small wine cellar, including their current career and the importance of agriculture and tourism. They also discuss their current work and the importance of wines and the importance of managing vines and learning the three varieties of albarola. They visit a small vineyard and discuss the logistics of growing vines, learning the three varieties of albarola, and the importance of precision in obtaining wines. They also discuss their approach to working with skins and grapes to preserve and taste the magic of their projects, including a mix of red wines and the use of biomass and the importance of preserving the style of the wines. They thank their guests and listeners for their interest in the region and encourage them to visit their podcasts.

Transcript

When we start to work with our grapes, the two first years, we were we're not able to make wine because we hadn't a seller. I was I was working in to scandinavia. So we produced the grapes and we sell it to cooperative of quiter. And then, finally, in twenty twenty, we were able to work in our seller. The seller was ready. And, immediately, it was kind of panic for us because, I didn't slap for several months thinking, how to to work that that grapes because we just, tested the grapes and never, never make wine with them. So it was also a little bit dangerous for us to start a project with without knowing the wine that come from that grapes, but I never doubt about the quality. What I was thinking it was only to understand the best way to transform these, incredible grapes to wine. Fascinating people with stories to share. Fabulous wines and the best local foods to accompany them. And beautiful places to discover and visit. All of this and more on wine, food, and travel with me, Mark Millen, on the Italian wine podcast. Join me for a new episode every Tuesday. Welcome to wine food and travel with me, Mark Millen, on Italian wine podcast. Today, we travel to liguria, to one of Italy's most beautiful and most popular corners, Chinque terre, a stretch of steep coastline that connects five picture postcard villages that claim like barnacles to the rocky shore. To meet my guests, Ricardo and Adeline Georgie of the Chanda Georgie winery. We're up by the Saint Duario San Bernardino in the high hills between Vernazza and Cornelia looking down the terras slopes and out to sea. Ricardo and Adelina know that life is busier than ever for you right now. So thank you very much for being my guest today. How are you? Thank you. Thank you very much. Fine. Very happy. Very happy to be with you today. Well, I'm happy to connect this way because I was with you just a few nights ago in San Bernardino. I'm back in England now, but I wanted to continue our conversation because you have such an exciting story to tell. And you you're working in a very beautiful area, but an area that's also very challenging for many, many reasons and very difficult. So as I said, many, many people visit cinque terre, but I don't think they gain an impression of what life and and work for growing grapes is like. But before we get into those details, I'd like you just to describe to me where you are. Describe cinque terre for our listeners who are located all around the world and who may not have ever been to cinque terre. So just describe where you are then more precisely San Bernardino where you're located. Yeah. Well, cinque terre are, an incredible, region. We are in, Italy, of course, liguria in the south is the coast of liguria between Lasencia and Geneva. Here, the region is, special why because we live in mountains. To prepare our our mountains that fall straight to the sea. So this is a very nice landscape, a special landscape, and we have here some incredible varieties of vegetables Grooms. Here, there is an incredible story with agriculture because people surviving in this course, living with the the culture, fishing, and, hunting. So it's a special landscape here. And today, we have a lot of tourism because everything is very nice and we do travel from the sea. We visit all the little villages, but the story of Chicotera is, attached is was created by agriculture. And the fundamental things here is and was agriculture. Okay. That's a really good description, and it's really important to emphasize that the LAN itself was shaped for a thousand years or more by man carving the terraces, making the dry stone walls in order to be able to grow things grapes, but also as you say citrus fruits such as beautiful fragrant lemons, vegetables and much else. Now before we get into talking about the cinque terra and your own story coming here, I'd like to know a bit of background about you both because You've met in France. Is that right? And you were both working in a very well known and wonderful wine. Region, perhaps one of the most famous in the world, Bordeaux. So share share your stories with us. Yes. Exactly. So, you've had my accent. I'm French, Ricardo is Italian. We met in France in Bordeaux in two thousand twelve. We were both working in very well known wineries in the Medak on Margo Appalachian. Ricardo was working in the wine cellar and in the vineyard, and I was working in the office, and I was doing the tour, the tastings, and the commercial part. And this is how we met. And so, yes, maybe you can explain your background. So you went first to the university at Pisa. There I started with culture and we're making and had some experience in Tuscany. And then starting from a winery in Tuscany had the possibility to arrive to Margo. And they're, starting a nice long trip, in the Viticulture and Technology in France. And I just won't say that you are supposed to stay only four months. So when he left Italy, he said to his mom. I'm just going to friends for four months, and at the end, he said he's eight. Yes. Eight. Yes. Is that partly because of you, Adeline? At the beginning, to be honest now, it was the opportunity for young Italian to learn a lot, a lot of very important way of minification, winemaking in which is like the laboratory for all the world. And you had good opportunity also to the university. Yeah. Incredible incredible opportunities working with the most of the best red whites in the world, but also white wine and so ten because I started in in Medock, so Margolo region. And then, I continue with important family of wine in Bursac. So so ten region making white wine and also so ten. So sweet wine. That was an incredible moment. In the same moment, I also had an incredible opportunity to work like a consultant in the vineyard. With some specialist in pruning. And, we work from restore, old vines and find balance again in some very old vines that should continue to work. To ensure the quality for great wines. We had possibility also to work, in this research in with Carter and also in the knowledge. So it was a full full period, but it was a fundamental. It was incredibly important for me because, today I can only say thank you to all these people who I work with. And, it was first step for me for the job that we do today and, for the future, it was a really important period. Ricardo, one thing that strikes me about your background, which I think isn't the case often is that you're both, vital couture and, as well as a winemaker. Your interest has always been the vines themselves, particularly old vines, but also transforming the fruit into wine. Sometimes those divisions are separate, but you're very focused on tending the vines to get the best fruit and then transforming that into wine. Exactly. But, Adeline, why did you then you both had Very good jobs in France. Ricardo, you were making wine on four different chateaus, Grandcreaux class a wines, wines so different from the white grave or the botrytis wines from Soutane. So, you know, you had a very full and successful professional life in France, but you chose a much harder path when you returned here. Tell us about what brought you back to this land Yes. We had very good positions both of us. We didn't plan anything. We just wanted to go on and follow the trend in Bordeaux. We've we've been working so hard for eight years to get dispositions and good contracts. And just one day when we went back to the lands of regard, in Italian, the chinguitera. Every summer, one day doing a hiking trail in Rio majority, We had to stop because I was exhausted. It was too hot. And They're very steep. Yes. And we stopped where there was, Navendon, very old vineyard, one hundred years old vines or more. With a very small house, like we have here in the Chincri Terre called Rustico. So, very small house, almost destroyed. And Ricardo told me, okay, this place is, is incredible because no one is going to take it back. We did another h