Ep 2314 Cinzia Benzi | Wine, Food & Travel with Marc Millon

For those who make and sell wine, almost feel at the moment we're at something of a crossroads, serious economic concerns, particularly at this moment with the threat of Trump tariffs, Do you feel confident that wine will survive through all these challenges that we're currently facing? The current situation is not simple for me. The problem of the duty issue is a matter of geopolitical and trade dynamics. So in my opinion, probably the Margrange wines, nato entry level, not Lexary segment, risk losing, probably competitiveness because the price increase would make that less attractive than, they're probably American or South American competitors. Fascinating people with stories to share. Fabulous wines and the best local foods to accompany them and beautiful places to discover and visit. All of this and more on wine food and travel with me, Mark Millen, on the Italian wine podcast Join me for a new episode every Tuesday. Welcome to wine, food, and travel with me, Mark Minon, on Italian wine podcast. Today, we travel to Piedmont, to the Kumune of Canelli to meet my guest, Chincia Bensey, wine and food author journalist, Donna Delvino, many, many thanks for being with us this morning. How are you today? Good morning, Mark, and thank you so much of this invitation for me. It's a great honor to be here. And, I mean, can I leave today? Yes. Oh, great. I'm interested to know that you spend your time between Caneli, this beautiful village in the wine hills, is this the Prravinca D'asti? Yes. And Milan, and also on the Adriatic coast at Chazanatico. Can you tell us a little bit about the importance of these three places in your life. That's right. I was born in Kanelli in nineteen seventy, a place where Muscatodasti is produced. A type of white grape wine that I love, probably a sign of death Stiny. I don't know. But, the nectar of Bakers is one of my reasons for living, and it's a passion transmitted to me by my father, but my father who was not a winemaker, but a painter. A man who made me realize here early on how much the subject of wine added to be studied with the selflessness and dedication. Even as a child, I was a truck by the the magic that grape could transmit to me from vinyls that surrounded my home. The truth that, this fruit could turn into wine, fascinated me greatly. I remember standing at the window for hours during our time admiring the carts, and the the chant of wine over these grapes is unbelievable. So anyway, I love Monferato. I love the Pierre Monte. I always said that the desire to go beyond the regional borders to go to the world. And I love reading and traveling. I divided that you have a reason of my time between, Milana, the city that adopted me and allowed me to misuse my professional skills and the city because I love as an article is a place that I have more of my friends. I have a little home. And, probably, I take refuge in Romania where I find the affection of my friends that can only remain a a fixed stop of my constant travels. And, since two thousand twenty, it has won again become the home I share with my husband that work in Lancashire. Okay. That's a really interesting story. And, it seems, you have a beautiful balance to your life. You have Yes. This home where you were born where you grew up amongst the beautiful wine hills. Of the Monferato. You have the big city of Milan, which is exciting and and important professionally. And then you have the beauty of the Adriatic coast, that Romania coast, which is really beautiful and also, of course, a wonderful source of different foods than language, than than Piedmont. Then we'll talk about that a little bit later. But I love the story that your love of wine came from when you were a child. You were actually fascinated by the vineyards, by the smell. Of course, Moscato has the most beautiful aromas of of all the grapes and aroma really, grapes, the grapeiness that Moscato has. Yes. And it fascinated you. I guess as well. Muscato Dasty being only five percent alcohol. It was probably a wine, the first wine you began drinking. Well, yeah. And I think he's a mother wine today So we can share after, but I think, it's probably one of the kind of modern wine that probably the people can discover or rediscover, you know, I think I think so too. I think it's a it's such a light and fresh Yes. Beautiful wine, and that, you know, the aromas when well made. It's certainly a wine I love. It's a wine my my children love growing up. As well. It was the first wines I gave them, and I think they gained their love of wine yes. As well. Chinti, you also have a great love of France, a great connection in particular with Bordeaux. Why is Bordeaux a place that's so deeply in your heart? And what do you most love about the area and, indeed, about the wines? Yes. So France is my adopted country, the owner of my most serious and the the same time lighter to the technological studies and friendship. You have a reason. I added a great fortune to live in Paris, study, and get to know many peoples who are still part of my circle of best friends today too. I have travel a lot around the country, visiting wineries, monuments, trying to satisfy my every curiosity about wine and gastronomy because, you know, Mark, food being my equal fixation to wine. So anyway, is a a special city of my studies because, I think that traveling opens your mind. And, as far as I'm concerned, the comparison with the difference of wine isn't a dead value. So if the most memorable trips are made with the heart, in Bordeaux and bring to mind unfortunate days, because, I study in Bordeaux and, I spend the decoders of my holidays visiting every corner of this portion of the southwest of France. I reassess such, my great passion for this novel Rot wine. Oh, well, that actually that leads on to my next question. I'm I'm just thinking that this connection again with wines that have this delicious balance of sweetness and acidity that, of course, you find in the wines of Canelli, but also you found a different style of wonderful dessert wines, these noble rot wines in Sauteran and Barzac. And, of course, you've just written a book, or your most recent book, is about one of the world's most famous wine estates, Chateau Yichem. I've been to Sartan many times, But I've never had the chance to visit this historic estate. So tell us about about it, about the people who make possibly the greatest dessert wine in the world. Yes. I come as a legend, and I've had the the good fortune in my life to visit this wonderful chateau every year for more than twenty years of my life, reviewing the vintages and the understanding the many core that goes into the premier three super year alone now. The idea of this book was created in July twenty nineteen that I arrived in Saturn and realized that there were changes at the game, a boutique at the reception, news testing rooms, the possibility of being able to walk through the chateau when drinking a glass of suternes in front of the vines. So For me, it's a totally a new sensation of novelties, but novelties of a legend. So a magic moment that I have to find a way to write about this magical place about the lights that make a cam unique, about the incredible work that goes into the glass of a cam, but also about how many young people work in this legendary place. A special project of social sustainability. And I think a unique human heritage. So another things, because after one year, arrived in icam, a great person, a young man from Rome, an Italian man, Lorraine Topasquini, that is now the director of And it seems to me that once again, the time of this young man reaches the story that had to be told. And I decided to compose my book, witty Kam, and with the fantastic support of Franchesca Brambilla and Serena Cerrani to extraordinary travel inconvenience, who have composed this book of images. So my words are important, but the pictures are very, very, very important for see immediately the legend of a Chateau de Cam. And for the first time, Mark, I wrote, in French, the book. So it's for me a very hard work because I wrote in Italian, so my language and in French, supported by the the EKAM team, like Valeria and Navalifin, and, another version in English, but this is translate and then not my English is not so good. I excuse myself for this, but, I would like to say that is really a legend. And, when you visit and when you study these, particularly things, of this, Chateau, you understand the, I think that, eighteen fifty five, he came, is the premier cruise superior. So it's really correct today. It's an incredible story. And now what I love about that, Chincia, is the social sustainability that you mentioned the human side. It's easy with a legendary wine. A wine is famous as he came to forget the people that are working so hard with such precision and with such hand care passing through the vineyards many, many times to Absolutely. Select the grape by grape virtually. These grapes affected by the Yeah. The, mufferinobile to make these wines with such hand care that's quite unique and to get a sense of that human story is is very important. So often, he can, is a a recognizer like, desert wine, but, it's not correct. I would like to say that he can, cannot be considered as only a dessert wine, no more of these somewhat congealed gastronomic cliche because it can is extraordinary with the slice of parmigiano reggiano with fish. You can try with the roast chicken. It's fantastic. With the the the sear or blue cheese, of course, but not only with this. Oh, that's interesting. I was thinking, of course, with foie gras is a classic and the and croque for, but, I would never imagine though, you can see a drinking or having not that I have the opportunity to drink. I'm very often I've tasted it only a few times in my life. But, to have it to have the the great pleasure to be able to have a glass with a roast chicken. That sounds amazing. So we can make an appointment with the special dinner together. And I bring a cam, and you can offer the roast chicken. For me, it's perfect. Well, that would be wonderful. I shall look forward to that with the greatest pleasure. Where you want? Okay. I'm going to hold you to that one. Now just so I'm talking to you this little bit. I can see how the human story is so interesting to you in your explorations of wines and foods. And I know you studied psychology. Was that in Pordeaux? And before you moved into the professional world of food and wine, and I can see that that link is important to that human link. Is that right? Yeah. Absolutely. I think it's very important every time of my life, and now is not, another part of my life because, I'm I'm older, but, the studies and the possibility to reach all of the things of your profession, your passion is important. For me, you cannot make things or without the study of the things. It's not possible. Yes. Yes. I can see that. And also, I'm really interested that that your approach to wine and food is completely integrated. The world of food is an equal passion, not separate, but very much linked to one. That's actually been my approach as well over my profession. But why food so important? What does food represent culturally? You know, food is not just from one michelin star restaurant to another, but it's so linked to who we are to our very identities. Yes. It's very important because, when you're looking for a new wine or a new winery, you are interested to understand who is the person, who is the wine, who is the all of the things. For the food for me is the same. So I cannot go to try a new restaurant, but I would like you to understand who is the kind of rice or pasta or meat or vegetables that use. I would like to understand that with the possibility to explain how he's, the new philosophy of gastronomy. The word of autonomous totally change in ten years completely. And, it's important for me, study the connection of the producer of the diarrhea that are produced, particularly ingredients So every time in a culture is a a thing that you cannot pay, but it's important for understand in every time of the life. Yes. Absolutely. And when you say that the world of gastronomy has changed in the last ten years, do you mean that as that consumers' awareness and interests in food have become much more detailed wanting to know where particular ingredients from wanting to see tradition, but also innovation. Is that what you mean by the changes that have happened in in a relatively short time? Because you're right. The world is and and especially when we're looking at a country like Italy where tradition and regionality is so important. Yes. Anyway, it's very important for me that, if you would like to make innovation, you can understand and study the tradition. So every basic ingredients are normal. The ABC of the gastronomy travel that you made is not possible to talking about the special gastronomy items, sir, if you don't understand how is a good pasta or good rice, for example. Okay. And as well, I think you when you say that innovation must come from tradition and, of course, Italy and France in such rich traditions. Well, I guess that leads me to my question about your work with one of Italy's greatest and most creative chefs Yes. I had a chance to meet for the first time last year and dined in the wonderful Madonina del Pescattore Oh, no. Which, and shattered with him and went into his laboratory afterwards. And I couldn't see exactly what fascinated you by this this incredible creativity, but totally rooted in place and tradition. Tell us about your work with Moreno. Moreno is the chef who celebrated last year forty years careers. In Scenicalia in Madonino de Pescatore. And I wrote my first book with him in two thousand eleven, a short biography that, was followed by Moreno Cedrone in other three books, after. And, Probably the last book in twenty nineteen, the title is the creative thinking that changed Italian cuisine. And I think this is the real DNA of Moreno. Moreno is one of the person that, studied in every time of his life. So after forty years of careers, you cannot stop to study. This is, I think, it's really the most important things for a vision of these words. I think it's important. Yes. He he had such a infectious desire to learn and to share with, guests in the restaurant. And, you know, I can remember going over to the laboratory or jester. Yes. A few doors there on. And all sorts of things were going in there. Some very strange things. Where it going going on in there. And it was playful, and it was fun. And you could see that Moreno really delights in making food, not just delicious, not just serious, which you almost have to worship on a plate, but food that delights people and makes them happy. Yeah. Siasa Moreno is undoubtedly talent personified who never stops his questioning vision, always projecting a new future into his cuisine with a maturity probably that the guys, him, is always a winning choices, I think. Yes. Yes. I'm I'm sure that's right. And I look forward to visiting again. I think I'm going to La Marque again in is this is La Marque, we're in Sanigalia. Isn't it? Just below just below. Not not far from Chazanatico then? No. It's more than one hour. It's, normal. Just an hour south. Yeah. Yeah. Yes. Absolutely. Yeah. Yep. I love that coast. Now, Chimsi, another one of your books is, what do you mean by what do you mean by this title? So this book came out in twenty seventeen. And, I can assure you that, such a contemporary vision of a woman of wine seen as the one who could produce to eat, communicate it, create it, sell it, was not so obvious. So I can say without fear of being contradicted, then probably in that year, the woman, the women of wine, where the wife or companion of the producer. So I wanted to to trace a different part of, and have collected a small slice of a real life of a great woman. For me, dear friends, such as, Camilla Lonele of Cantino Ferrari, Marilisa Lagrene, Rafael Bologna, of Braida, Cristina, Verlucci, Anna and Valentina Bona of Marquesier de Barolo. To name a few of these great, great, great women. So then other female colleagues wrote other texts, but my vision was not from a sexist point of view. And I would like to explain this. Rater, my desire was a simple act of witnessing how female talent in the world of wine was and is fundamental and plural. So now, and it wasn't, it is now. And, so probably this mark, when I study my psychology and university, my professor with whom I developed my test. Always told me, Chinsia. Women at the gift of analysis while males have the death of scientists today, probably it's correct or not. But for me, the woman in, you know, are the great, great women of the weineworld. And I cannot explain, now it's changed probably. This book, it's the first book that, explain this diversity. Yes. Probably. But now it's important talking about today women of wines. Stop for me. Yes. I think it is incredible to think, Chiencia, that this was two thousand seventeen. And as you say, women really didn't have a profile in their own right so much. I know, actually, the women you mentioned, I don't know them as friends as you do, but I know them as leaders of their companies, and I've met them and And, of course, I admire them and and the magnificent wines they make, but it is incredible how women have really, in a very short time, relatively short time, have really taken their place on the main stage Certainly, in Italy, perhaps more so than elsewhere, would you think? Probably. More so than in France. I know very well the France, condition, and probably is the Italian, do it better. Okay. Okay. I don't know, but I think it's, different approach, probably. Okay. Now you mentioned LeDonna Delvino. This organization was it was begun more than twenty years ago. Wasn't it? Was it in the eighties or nineties? And do you think that Le Don de Delino is one way that has given much more recognition to women and wine in Italy? Yeah. Absolutely. Of course, a national association that I attend less than I would like, but I is superb with my narrative feed at every possible moment. And it's, composed by the producer, by the journalist, by the and, I believe in teamwork and synergies in the comparison between colleagues, from every corner of the planet in Italy, of course, it's important. Wine is a living matter and culture is the most economical vaticum that can allow us to grow. For me, this is my opinion. Sometimes by talking about our skills, sometimes by listening careful to others, but the association, Donna Delvino, is a great example of how this world can work as a system. Do you think that through this association? And there's been a realization, a consensus about what women do better than men, what women bring to the world of wine? No. No. I think I think that is really a possibility to make really teamwork to make a new project. It's very hard every time to make these, different places for women and for men. No. I think it's not correct to the approach. Okay. Okay. For mena, this is my opinion, Mark. Yeah. And what about inequality in the world of wine and hospitality between men and women? Do you think there's still a great divide? And is there anything that can be done to improve this? I want to think that, inequality are less and less obvious to make way for talent for meritocracy. So every day, I try to treasure the family teaching that my parents passed on to me. So respect for the person, a man or woman, for the given words, for professional and private seriousness. So, honestly, undermine presence and in a word full of platitudes. So we need the concreteness, sir, the one word included for me. Sure. Sure. I understand. Now, finally, for those who make and sell wine, as well as for those of us who write about it, I think we almost feel at the moment we're at something of a crossroads. Climate change is a huge issue and is having a massive impact on wine producers. Then they're serious economic concerns, particularly at this moment with the threat of Trump tariffs and the impact that this will have on producers who depend on their exports to the US. And also, I think there's consumption in general is falling away, and there are draconian health warnings from WHO and authorities and EU in the US and the UK about wine and health and we're finding a younger generation doesn't connect with wine as naturally as previous generations. Do you feel confident that wine and the beautiful culture of wine will survive through all these challenges that we're currently facing. Yes. So it's a good question. The current situation is not simple for me. The problem of the duty issue is a matter of the geopolitical and trade dynamics So in my opinion, probably the migraines, nadir entry level, not to luxury segment, risk losing, probably competitiveness because the price increase would make that lesser attractive than, they're probably American or South American competitors. Perhaps even the best known appellation could end lesser known Italian wines. I I would like to explain with an example, thinking of the prosecco phenomenon, so I love the Bolicina, the sparkling wines are another great, great passion of me. And, I thinking about this. So the prosecco could have a setback to make room for champagne or Franca Corta, for example, because premium customers are less sensitive to price increases. But this drop in conception, especially among young people, should give us a post for true because if health, the safety of drinking a problem over driving a car without incurring and registered the alcohol test limits leads to the more other important things. So it's not a good period. Absolutely. But in my opinion, I think, and I would like there will be a transformation. But let's not paint the future with, darker gray. There I can and must be a point of view in the sky because of the history of wine will continue through celebrations to conviviality through a, probably a liquid art form. And, if consumer in moderation, it does not harm indeed. For me, wine is not just a drink, but a piece of civilization. That's a wonderful thought to end our conversation on. And I love too that you brought back that link between wine and art. Perhaps which brings us back to where you started from with your father and artist, introducing you to your love of wine. Yes. Chincea, it's been a really fascinating conversation. I'm so glad we've been able to meet up this morning, and I will hold you to that promise of roast chicken. Absolutely. Yes, sir. That would be very appropriate. Thank you so much, Mark, really. Thank you so much, and make a great opportunity to me to share all of the things that I love because I love wine, and probably my passion, became in my profession, and I think I'm a lucky woman. Yes. And I share that with you as well. I think that those of us have the good fortune to work in wine and food and beautiful culture and places, we are definitely very fortunate. So, I hope we can meet sometime soon. Would you be at VINita Lee? Yes. Absolutely. I received a special invitation from the a great woman, like, a Stevie Kim, for the opera wine, and doctor, I will visit, in Italy for all of the days. Yes. It's a great appointment. It is a great appointment. Well, I hope that our paths will cross there, and I look forward to meet But in the meantime, thank you so much for being my guest today and sharing your story with our listeners. Thank you so much, Mark. We hope today's episode of wine, food, and travel with me, Mark Millen, on the Italian wine podcast, has transported you to somewhere special. Please remember to like, share, and subscribe wherever you get your pods. Likewise, you can visit us at Italian wine podcast dot com. Until next time, Chincin.