Ep. 2496 Chiara Condello from Condé and Chiara Condello wineries in Emilia-Romagna | Wine, Food & Travel with Marc Millon
Wine, Food & Travel with Marc Millon
Episode Summary
<think> I need to analyze the provided text about Chiara Condello and her wineries, following the specific format requested. Let me first understand what I'm working with. The text appears to be a transcript of a podcast episode (Ep. 2496) featuring Chiara Condello from Condé and Chiara Condello wineries in Emilia-Romagna. The host is Marc Millon (though sometimes referred to as Mark Millen in the transcript). Let me extract the key information from this transcript: 1. Chiara Condello works with her family at the Condé winery and also runs her own Chiara Condello winery, both located in Predappio, Emilia-Romagna. 2. Predappio is described as a small village at the beginning of the Apennine mountains, with views of the Adriatic Sea on one side and the Po Valley on the other. 3. Chiara initially left for Milan to study economics and worked abroad (Belgium, Singapore, Australia) but returned to Predappio to help her family temporarily and ended up staying for 13 years. 4. The region specializes in Sangiovese di Romagna, which is different from Tuscan Sangiovese - it's described as "Sangiovese piccolo" with smaller branches, smaller berries, and more skin to juice ratio. 5. The terroir is unique because 3 million years ago, this area was underwater, which is evident in the soil composition called "Spungone" - a rock made of shells, corals, and sand compacted by calcium. 6. Chiara's father founded the Condé estate, which includes vineyards, olive oil production, and a hospitality component called "Borgo Condé" which is a Relais & Châteaux property. 7. Chiara started her own winery when she took over a 40-year-old vineyard that a neighbor was planning to remove. She now has 6 hectares of vines, mostly Sangiovese, with many old vines (around 50 years old). 8. Her approach is organic (certified) with biodynamic preparations and natural infusions from local herbs and flowers. She emphasizes minimal intervention in both vineyard and winemaking. 9. She makes two main Sangiovese wines (plus a third selection in some years): - "Tre Vigne" from old vines on clay soil - "Le Lucciole" from a single vineyard on rocky soil (where the Spungone rock is present) - Occasionally "Stellisco," a selection from Le Lucciole aged in concrete 10. Winemaking approach: indigenous yeasts, whole berry fermentation, long maceration on skins, aging in large Slavonian oak barrels (1-30 months depending on the wine). 11. The wines are described as expressing terroir, with Sangiovese being a "transparent variety" that shows the soil characteristics. 12. The region is known for handmade pasta, white truffles, and traditional cheeses like "formaggio di fossa" (cheese aged in caves with sulfur in the soil). 13. Hospitality options include the Borgo Condé with 19 rooms, restaurants, pools, and spa facilities. Now, let me cross-reference this with the search results provided to ensure I have accurate information: From search result [1], I see: - Chiara Condello's winery was established in 2015 after her experience in the family winery Condè (owned by her father Francesco) - The winery is located in the Rabbi river valley in Predappio - She has 5 hectares of vineyards all planted with Sangiovese di Romagna - Her principal vineyard "Le Lucciole" is 40 years old, near "Raggio Brusà" which is 50 years old From search result [2]: - The winery is located in Fiumana di Predappio, Emilia-Romagna - Founded in 2015 - 4.8 hectares of vineyards - Annual production of 28,000 bottles - Focus on organic agriculture with manual vineyard work and minimal intervention in winemaking From search result [3]: - "Tre Vigne Sangiovese" is a biological red wine aged in wood - Produced in DOC Romagna Sangiovese Predappio - Made from 50-year-old vines grown organically on clay-limestone and calcareous sandstone soils at up to 350 meters altitude - Fermentation with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel and open wooden vats - Aged for 12 months in 3500-liter Slavonian oak barrels From search result [4]: - Mentions "Le Lucciole" as a Tre Bicchieri 2020 wine from Gambero Rosso - Chiara produces wines that offer a "revolutionary interpretation" of Predappio's unique terroir - The soil is poor, calcareous-clay with Pliocenic tufaceous-sandy rocks called "Spungone" - She follows organic viticulture with manual work, organic fertilization, mechanical weeding, and minimal use of sulfur and copper From search result [5]: - Confirms the soil description: poor, calcareous-clay soil rich in Pliocenic tufaceous-sandy rocks called "Spungone" - 3 million years ago, this area was underwater - Production: 35,000 bottles - 6 hectares of vineyards - Organic farming From search results [6], [7], [8], and [9], I see additional confirmation of details but no major new information. Now I'll create the content analysis following the requested format: **Content Analysis** **Key Themes (max 5 points)** 1. Terroir-driven Sangiovese production in Romagna 2. Organic and minimal intervention winemaking philosophy 3. Family legacy and personal journey in winemaking 4. Unique geological history of Predappio region 5. Integration of wine, food, and hospitality **Summary (max 200 words)** [Brief summary] **Key Takeaways (max 6 points)** - [takeaway] - [takeaway] **Notable Quotes (max 3)** - "[quote]" **Follow-up Questions (max 3)** 1. [question] Let me craft each section carefully, keeping within the word limits. </think> **Content Analysis** **Key Themes (max 5 points)** 1. Terroir-driven Sangiovese production in Romagna with distinctive "Sangiovese piccolo" characteristics 2. Organic and minimal intervention winemaking philosophy emphasizing vineyard care 3. Family legacy and personal journey from economics student to winemaker 4. Unique geological history of Predappio region shaped by ancient sea deposits 5. Integration of wine, food culture, and hospitality in Emilia-Romagna **Summary (max 200 words)** Chiara Condello represents a new generation of winemakers in Romagna's Predappio region, balancing family tradition with personal innovation. After studying economics and working abroad, she returned to her family's Condé winery and eventually established her own eponymous label in 2015. Her 6-hectare estate focuses exclusively on Sangiovese di Romagna, particularly the local "Sangiovese piccolo" variety with smaller berries and thicker skins. The terroir is defined by ancient marine deposits (Spungone rock) from 3 million years ago, creating calcareous-clay soils that impart distinctive characteristics to the wines. Condello practices certified organic viticulture with biodynamic elements, emphasizing biodiversity preservation near the National Park of Foreste Casentinesi. Her winemaking approach features indigenous yeasts, whole-berry fermentation, extended maceration, and aging in large Slavonian oak barrels. She produces two main wines: "Tre Vigne" from clay soils and "Le Lucciole" from rocky vineyards, plus occasional special selections. The region's culinary traditions—handmade pasta, white truffles, and formaggio di fossa—complement her elegant, food-friendly Sangioveses. Both her winery and the family's Borgo Condé hospitality complex offer immersive experiences connecting wine, food, and landscape in this Apennine foothill region. **Key Takeaways (max 6 points)** - Condello's wines express a unique "Sangiovese piccolo" with smaller berries, thicker skins, and distinctive regional character - Her organic approach includes biodynamic preparations and herbal infusions to enhance vine health and soil quality - The terroir's ancient marine origin (evident in Spungone rock) creates distinctive mineral characteristics in the wines - She produces approximately 35,000 bottles annually from 6 hectares of predominantly old-vine Sangiovese - Winemaking emphasizes minimal intervention: indigenous yeasts, whole-berry fermentation, and large-format oak aging - The region's culinary heritage—particularly handmade pasta and formaggio di fossa—creates ideal pairings with her Sangioveses **Notable Quotes (max 3)** - "Sangiovese is a transparent variety... through the Sangiovese can really let the soil express" - "Where I am located in Predappio... three million years ago, where I am, the hills of Predappio were below the sea level" - "My approach was since the beginning to accept that, and to try to work in a way that could just improve the quality of the soil, improve the quality of the plants that I took over" **Follow-up Questions (max 3)** 1. How does the "Spungone" rock specifically influence the sensory profile of Condello's Sangiovese compared to neighboring regions without this geological feature? 2. What challenges does climate change present to old-vine Sangiovese cultivation in Predappio, and how is Condello adapting her practices? 3. How does Condello balance the traditional Romagna winemaking techniques with her more "revolutionary interpretation" of the region's potential?
About This Episode
Speaker 1 and Speaker 2 discuss their experience studying wine in Milan and returning to their family winery in Romania. They also discuss their wine projects, including organic farming and infusing wine with biomass and feeder therapy. They discuss their approach to creating their own wine in a low intervention way using organic vines and cultivators, and their love for hospitality and the traditional Italian way of pairing with pastas and white truffles. They also talk about their approach to tannins and their use of natural harvesting techniques to create a softer and elegant onion. They discuss their approach to pairing with pastas and white truffles, as well as their love for hospitality and the Bargo hotel. They also mention their partnership with Rom degradation Sangevese and their love for hospitality and the Bargo hotel.
Transcript
This episode is powered by dialect import, taste the language of Italian Terror. Since the beginning, actually when I started, to take over this old vine, I started to taking care of them in the way I thought it was the most possible possible. Another thing that we didn't say before is that all around my vineyard and, the productive population, that is the National Park of Forest Decaccentonese. So there's a beautiful biodiversity here around the area. FedAP is an historical population. So there's a lot of vines planted, but there's also a lot of other cultivations, and there's the forest that really all around, which is actually giving this place, a lot of potential in terms of biodiversity. So my approach was since the beginning to expect that and to try to work in a way that could just, improve the quality of the soil, improve the quality of the plants that I took over. Fascinating people with stories to share, fabulous wines, and the best local foods to accompany them, and beautiful places to discover and visit. All of this and more on wine food and travel with me, Mark Millen, on the Italian wine podcast. Join me for a new episode every Tuesday. Welcome to wine food and travel with me, Mark Millen, on Italian wine podcast. Today's show takes us to the Romania part of Emilio Romagna. To Bre tapio, a wine commune nestled in the folds of the Apennine mountains, not far from the Adriatic sea. To meet my guest, Kiara Condello, who both works with her family in the Conde winery, as well as runs her own Kiara Condello winery, both located in Predapio. Buongiorno Kiara. How are you today? I'm very well. Thank you. Hope the same. Yeah. I'm very well too. Thank you. It must be something with relief and satisfaction that your harvest is now over. Absolutely. When you have all the grapes safely in the cellar, it's really, very deep kind of relief. You know that all your work that you have done for one year now is safe in the cellar. So yeah. Yeah. I'm sure that's, a very good feeling, but I'm sure there's also much work going on in the cellar over these weeks too. A lot. A lot. Now we are really in the cellar almost today and night because we are doing pumping over very frequently, and we are taking care of the fermentation. So, yeah, it's a very tiring, but especially exciting moment of the year. So Yes. Absolutely. Now Kiara Pridapio is in the region of Amelia Romania, but Romania, in fact, is very different to Amelia in every way, not least in the landscape for listeners who are located all over the world and who may picture the broad and mainly flat Po valley when they think of Emilio Romania, can you please describe where you are? Yes. Of course. So as you said, I mean, the Romania part of the Amelia region, and the Romania is the part of the region which is going from bologna in the direction of the Adriatic sea. I'm in Prudapio, which is a very small village, at the beginning of the Appenini mountains. So I'm up on the hills. I see the flat part of the region on one side, but on the other side, I have all the chain of the Appenini mountains, which are the mountains dividing Emilia Romania from Tuscany. So I'm up on the hills I have all the appendini chain on a side. I see the Adriatic, see on the other side. And when it's really clear, I can also see the alps in the back. But, for sure, you have to picture Predapio on a very beautiful hillside of the region. That's a beautiful description, Kiara. And I've been I've been to Predapio. I've been in the Romania wine hills, and it is a Very special, very beautiful place. And as you say, you're within you sight of the Adriatic sea. You've got the beautiful mountains behind you and then looking across to the broader, flat po valley. Tiara, let's share your personal story. You went to Milan to study. You left Romania, not far to go up to Milan to study. Did you always plan to return to your home to be involved in wine? Who I, to be honest, to know. When I left the Pridaca, you know, and after the high school, I moved away for the university and I studied in Milan, and then I went and leave a little bit abroad between, Belgium, Singapore, Australia. I was actually not imagining it to come back to Predapio because, you know, when you're young, you move away, you picture yourself in a bigger context and not coming back to a small village, So as long as I was studying, I was studying economy. Nothing to do with wine, even if I've been raised in a family where wine has always been the central part of the family. But at that moment of my life, I didn't thought about coming back and making wine. So I was really into what I was studying. And then after my graduation, a little bit by chance, I had a couple of spare time before starting working in consult and see I decided to come back to productive where my family had a a winery and a state just to help the family a little bit to see if they needed something. And then the two months, make me a little bit falling in love with the place, especially the work that my dad was doing. So I decided to extend my stay to the entire summer, and then harvest time arrived. I didn't want to miss it. So I decided to extend it to the harvest. And then, I realized that probably I wanted to stay longer. So I decided to give the chance and I told my dad I'm gonna stay one year, but don't make any ideas. I am gonna leave after the year. And, actually, now it's, thirteen years that I'm here. Oh my goodness. That's a lovely story. That, the roots of your family just drew you back. And I guess having been raised in a wine family, wine was something that had always been part of your family life, wine always on the table, and I guess that's that's a that's such a a, a draw to come back to this beautiful area. And you came back and began working with your father, working with your family on the Konde estate. Tell us about This family winery. Tell us, what are you doing there now? So Konda state is the state that has been established by my father here in Prudapio, and it's a beautiful state where we produce wine as may work, but we also have a little production of olive oil and where we put it together also a Relay. So there's also the hospitality. Virgo conda is a relay that, my dad has created in, more than twenty years of work just the taking over the ancient villas that were in the property and rebuilding the main border so that we can also have a guest in the family state. It is a very beautiful relay, but my part of the work in the family estate is more, linked to the wine product action. So I'm helping in the family in, vineyards and cellar. Okay. So Kiara Pridapio, and where you are is really the land of of San Jose, Romania San Jose, which is the same grape essentially as the San Gervais from Tuscany, of course, but it it has its own character. Is that right? Tell us about San Gervais, which is both the grape for the conde wines as well as for the wines you're making at the Chiaracondello winery. Yeah. Exactly. So San Jose is our deep love. Sanjay is the variety which is, the main variety in production historically, and it is also the only variety that we can use to have the appalachian production. This is very important because for as a sangiovese is really the variety that express the place. And what it is really important is the fact that it is the same, sangiovese that many people know because it we're known also in Tuscany and in other region of Italy. The sangiovese that we're growing here is, the native kind of sangiovese di Pridapio, which is a sangiovese piccolo. So smaller kind of sangiovese smaller branches, smaller berries, a little bit more skin to juice. It is a sangiovese with its own characteristic that, if I have to really sum up shortly, it can be described as a sangiovese that is very fruity, very elegant, and with a bit full potential for aging. That's very important to distinguish that, Romania SanJaveza has a character completely of its own unique to the terroi
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