Ep. 1777 Emanuele Russo | Wine, Food & Travel With Marc Millon

The Italian wine podcast is the community driven platform for Italian winegeeks around the world. Support the show by donating at italian wine podcast dot com. Donate five or more Euros, and we'll send you a copy of our latest book, my Italian Great Geek journal. Absolutely free. To get your free copy of my Italian GreatGeek journal, click support us at Italianpodcast dot com, or wherever you get your pods. Welcome to wine food and travel. With me, Mark Millen, on Italian wine podcast, listen in as we journey to some of Italy's most beautiful places in the company of those who know them best. The families who grow grapes and make fabulous wines. Through their stories, we all learn not just about their wines, but also about their ways of life, the local and regional foods and specialities that pair naturally with their wines, and the most beautiful places to visit. We have a wonderful journey of discovery ahead of us, and I hope you will join me. Welcome to wine food and travel with me, Mark Millen, on Italian wine podcast. Today, it's my great pleasure to travel to the wine town of Marcella on the northwest coast of Sicily to meet my guest, Emmanuel Eressau, chef proprietor of Ristorante Lumi. Which stands in a beautiful position overlooking Marsala and the Iranian Sea. It's a place I had a chance to visit this year, and I really enjoyed it. So I'm delighted to welcome Emmanuel. Thank you so much for being my guest today. How are you? And is it a beautiful day in Marcella? Joe Mark, it's a beautiful day. Today is a wonderful day in Marcella. It's a good day in, the sun, a good temperature. It's a fantastic today. Quazila primavera. Yeah. Yeah. Almost like spring. Yeah. Yeah. K. Now, first of all, Emmanuel, our listeners are located all around the world. I like to give them a picture of where we are. So you can can you describe to us where Marcela is and also that beautiful view from the terrace of Le Lumi. Yeah. The the restaurant is located in, Marcela in, in a part with the view of Ega D Islands. And, there were the sea where we we can admire the different sunset. It's a very romantic place. It's a beautiful place because it's a territorial city of Marcella. And, the restaurant is, to Island, to sunset, to different, territory of this, this part of Sicily. Yeah. I was with you at lunchtime, but I imagine the sunsets must be absolutely amazing. The Agady Islands are so suggest of these large islands rising from the sea across from the northwest coast. We'll talk about the Agady Islands a little bit later. And you have the Stanyone, this shallow lagoon with the island of Moxia, Yes. Is a long island, long island, in Sicily, but they're non, non in America. And and this part is a name of, Stanyone because the the sea is very small sea and very, very salted. It's a part as a particularly because, the fish in this part is very flavor. Oh, that's interesting. And of course, The salt is a very historic product. The salt that goes back to the time of the phoenicians. Yeah. It's an ancient land. I know that the Greeks were in Western Sicily at Sajesta and Salin the phoenicians and the Carthaginians and Moxia. The Romans Marcella was the lily Bayum, the Byzantines, the Arabs, the Normans, the Spanish, the British who came in the eighteenth century, to establish the Marcella wine dynasty. So it's an area that's had a lot of different civilizations passing through, and that's had an effect on the food as well, hasn't it? Yeah. This part is a strategic area because the Phoenician, the the other contamination, in this area is, is a more, contented for, for war is, is, best place for, Punique, Mocea is, as example of a museum to the Island Museum, because it's a very fantastic, a, a part of, Stagnona, very, very interesting. And the this area is, in in the other arrears, is born the the Salina. Yeah. It's where the salt is gathered. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. It's the the salt in this area is very important and very, very good because it's a very natural in best, experience in August when the the the special moment of the sort Mhmm. When the the person because the the sort is, catch in with the hand. And very, very particularly because sooner the person is the the typical song, for this, production. Okay. It's a fantastic because, you you turn in fifteen years old is is a very, very fantastic because it's a it's a history moment when when it gets the sword. Yeah. And that's that's a really, beautiful thing to to describe, Emmanuel, because it's the artist in production of salt. Further up the coast atrapani, there's industrial salt production, but this is all hand harvested as you say. And the the, salt pans over the course of summer with the heat and the wind are evaporating and getting more and more concentrated. And finally, in August, those salt gatherers can can scoop that special that special salt, that has the flavors of the of the lagoon, and it's a beautiful salt. I'm sure you use that salt in your cooking too then. Yeah. In the May, it's the period of tuna, in the period of the salt, the period of the onion, And, we work with this product. It's very simple because the natural have a, a best product in the in the heart for me. Okay. So You mentioned the tuna. Now, Fabignano, one of the Eged islands, has always been famous for tuna with the the fleets catching the fish. And there were once, I think a lot of Tonari on Faviniano. Are they still there? Yeah. Faviniana is, the when when born the the tuna in the the the first production in tuna to to Catelleta, the Florio born this preparation, the tuna, and the Fabignana is a island of the Tonara because it is the the best place of tuna. Okay. So the Florio family who the name we know also from Marsala wine, Marsala, of course, being a famous wine known all around the world. And we're actually in the town of Marsala. People may not realize that Marsala is a small town in Western Sicily where that famous wine began in the eighteenth century. But the floreos were very important in terms of wine, but also as you say in developing the the tuna industry and putting the tuna into cans. You cook the tuna fresh though when it you get the beautiful tuna when it's fresh, Emmanuel. Don't you? Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. It's a beautiful beautiful fish. I think we had some in the restaurant. Now, Emmanuel, the history of this area with the different civilizations passing through has left a very strong, influence on the cuisine. And I wanna turn to the influence of the Arabs. Western Sicily was particularly important when the Arabs occupied Sicily for I think it was nearly two hundred years, wasn't it before the Normans? And even today, there's still a strong influence We're not that far from Tunisia. And I know that the cooking of certain dishes has been influenced by the Arabs. Can you talk about that a little bit? This is really a tradition of cuisine. It's very, very large. I love the bigger food because, if you come from Marcella to Japanese, the sum recipe is very, very different because, in Japanese, for example, the in Japanese prepare with the almond and the cinnamon with the fish. But in Marcella, have a different preparation with the lemon, with the parsley, with the a little bit, salt, but is a large, prepared to, to cusco. The tuna is a particular, ingredient in this area because in a trapani, area, is prepared with the different, the recipe. In Marcella, for example, is a very, very important. The, stufat of tuna, is a source of tuna fish with the mint and garlic. Entraprene is very, very important. It's the salted tuna, with the interior of tuna, with the hurt, with the, Tuma is the the the hack The salt egg, the botarga is very famous botarga of tuna. Latuma, Sacicella is the salami of tuna with, prepared with the the part of very red of tuna is very, very fantastic with the more salt and pepper. I like to cook the different, in different period. I have the the different ingredient for me, it's very, very important that the the vegetable garden and, because because I have an experience, of of territory. In this period, I have the Chickoria, the the vegetable, very, very green. And in, in summer, the health plan, the zucchini, and the other for me, it's fantastic because the harabian, the, and the other person when, coming Marsala in, in Sicily, is take the, a little bit recipe translate in, in, all in, in a language of, different. And the the the the Arabian is a is a more prepared the the the recipe with the, almond, or cinnamon is very, very spicy. When coming, in Sicily, the the North mani, the the French, the spa Spanish is, prepared the the fry production. And, this is a mix of different cuisine of the world. It's a fantastic disc. Yes. That's that I is a really, really good description of how you have these influences from all the civilizations passing through to give this in incredibly complex flavor. Sicilian cuisine is completely unique to the rest of Italy, and that's why I think it's so exciting. That's interesting as well, Emmanuel. How you are saying that even between Trapani and Marcella, And they're not far away at all. We're talking about. I don't know. Thirty kilometers. It's not far up the road. Yeah. Thirty kilometers. Yes. But the dishes are are subtly different. The cusp cus, which is one of the famous dishes for leloumier, and which we sampled is very, very special. And also, I want you to explain, Emmanuel. I think our listeners think that cuscoos comes in a packet and you just add some boiling water to it and presto, you have cuscoos. But when you make cuscoos, it's a much more laborious because you take the can you describe what you do to make the cuscoos? Yeah. The cusco's is a is a product now is a is a territorial recipe. The cusco's is prepared with the same owner. The in the first time the semolina is, worked with the water in a recipient is with water and around the the hand prepare this couscous. If you take the water, more water is the the grain is lit big, big, big, big, big, big, big, big, big, big, big, big, big, big, big, big. And, the different of the territory is this is a different of territory. From Sanvito, to Marsala, the grain is, from Sanvito is a lead little grain. In Marcella is, a big grain. This preparation is, cooked in, in steam, in a pan, is a the name is cusco Sierra, cusco make a pan for one hour to steam with the water or soup. And after, take the the cuscoos, the seminar, and the the soup together is one part and one part. You rest in, in a container for, one hour. And after it's ready. The preparation of of is, normally three or four hours. Okay. It and it is so delicious. And I just want our listeners to get a picture of when you did this you were making the cuscoos in a large ceramic bowl. And as you just explained, you would just add a little bit of water to the bowl. And then with your hands, you would sift the grains. These hard grains of Durham wheat, the samwala. And as that sift together with the addition of a small drops of water, gradually those grains stuck together and became bigger and bigger. And when that was ready, that was a goose goose that you then took to be steamed over this concentrated fish broth. Absolutely delicious. Coming back to America, Vineital International Academy, the ultimate Italian wine qualification will be held in New York City from four to six March twenty twenty four. Have you got what it takes to become the next Italian wine ambassador? Find out at benito Lee dot com. I'm genuinely. I think that you once won a world cuscoos championship. Is that right? Yeah. Yeah. In Yeah. Two thousand seventeen. Yeah. Two thousand seventeen. Two thousand seven. Yeah. Yeah. Two thousand seven is, the the championship of with my grand maestro, my Giovanni. Okay. Is it prepared the with the crab of Stania on it. Okay. Is that delicious, recipe? Because it's very sweetly, but, have, assaulted because in Stanyone, he's, the salt is more he's a he's a fantastic recipe. It's a fantastic, because, in Marcella, it's typical prepared with the the crab. Oh, okay. That sounds absolutely amazing. Yeah. Now just speaking about some of these very special ingredients you have, I know Masara Delvalo is a very important fishing port just down the coast. Where you get a great selection of fish and shellfish, but there's one particularly prized product known all around Italy, the the red prawn of mozzarella del valo. Can you tell us about this? Madardo Valo is a best place in in part of the trapani is the the the first part of Arabian colonized. The the red shrimps is fantastic. I I love work this ingredient because it's very sweet. For me, it's one of the best ingredient of fish in the world. I like work this, product, this, ingredient. I like, prepare raw because for me, Ro is fantastic with a little bit oil and a lemon zest. Stop. No salt, no other. But if you hit the red shrimps, fry, is fantastic because inside the heat in the June in the May and June at the HAG, it's very, very bomb. It's fantastic. Yeah. I agree. I think it's exquisite. Because it's a similar to Orkinsey. The sea urchin. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. So that's a wonderful. It's a wonderful food. Yes. I really, really love it. It's a real treat to be in Western Sicily where you get it so fresh Yeah. Manuel, I'd like to turn to sicilian food or your food, the foods of Lillumier and wine. I know that pairing wine with your cuisine is important to you. And in fact, your cousin, Pietro Russo. Is a winemaker at Donna Fugata in Marcella. Pietro is also a very good friend of the Italian wine podcast in Vin Italy International. And he's the one who first told me about you. So I was delighted when we had a meal with you that we were able to sample a range of wines from Donna Fugata. But Marcela has a a wonderful, range now of table wines. Although, we think of the fortified Marsala, the famous fortified wines of Marsala. Today, more and more producers are making fabulous stable wines from great such as Guillo and in Zolian, Cartarato, wines that go very, very well with food. So can you tell us a little bit about wine and food and pairing wines? And it's maybe some of your favorite wine and food pairings. The friendship with the master of wine is fundamental for me. Magazine Pietro is a reference to how to go to a part of wine. And the restaurant. The combination of food and wine is a sense is essential for the switches of a good job. The company will a territory like Sicily and Italy, which are fundamental in this moment, especially no that we finally have, the fish Italian master wine and Gabriela. Pietro Gabriela is more, friends. Yes. You can know. Pietro for me is, it's a brother. It's a cousin, but is a broader because, it's very, very important for my inspiration. In Sicily, I have, a great tradition of wine. I think the the Grillo is the best, topology of grape in, in this part of Sicily. I think the the Marcella, the the whole of the Marcella is is prepared with this, great. For Marcella, it's very important that the the pairing with the food and, and the wine. I like, the grillo with the cusco's. And, I prefer all the red wine for example, for a tangrade of Donna Fugard. I'll I'll I love this wine a little bit fresh. With the tuna tartar is, Yes. Fantastic. Tancredi. That's one of my favorite wines, a blend of cabernet and narrow divala. It's a beautiful wine that Yeah. Fresh and vibrant. We ended our meal with you with a very special wine made by your cousin, an exquisite dessert wine, Ben Rayer, Pacito de Pantelleria. Tell us about this wine. Hey. This one is the the queen of the the past city. Is a big wine. It's a fantastic. I like this wine because it's a sweet, but it's no more sweet. It's a wine for whole. For me, it's impossible to take one person. It's, I don't like, but, yeah, it's impossible because the, but yeah, it's fantastic. This grape is, TBo with the, a pacita to to dry, with the wine, the so and the the sun. And to prepare, this wine, fantastic with the fresh and the dried grape. I like pairing this, this wine with mille foyer with the the cream. And, I like this wine with the Panatone or Colomba. It's, for me, it's a fantastic pairing. Actually, I think you've made some Panatone when we visited you, and it was a fantastic pairing. Emmanuel, I enjoyed our visit to you this year. I've really enjoyed our conversation. I wish we were sharing a glass of Ben Rayer together while we've been talking, but maybe the next time. I hope that when our listeners visit Marcella or anywhere in Western Sicily, that they will find their way to La Lumi. I look forward to seeing you again. But in the meantime, thank you so much for being my guest today. Thank you. Thank you. Wait. Great. Pleasure. I wait for you. Today's episode of wine food and travel with me, Mark Millen on Italian wine podcast. Please remember to like, share, and subscribe right here or wherever you get your pods. Likewise, you can visit us at italian wine podcast dot com. Until next time.