Ep. 1852 Silvano Brescianini and Mauro Zacchetti | Wine, Food & Travel With Marc Millon

The Italian wine podcast is the community driven platform for Italian winegeeks around the world. Support the show by donating at italian wine podcast dot com. Donate five or more Euros, and we'll send you a copy of our latest book, my Italian Great Geek journal. Absolutely free. To get your free copy of my Italian GreatGeek journal, click support us at italian wine podcast dot com, or wherever you get your pods. Welcome to wine food and travel. With me, Mark Billen, on Italian wine podcast. Listen in as we journey to some of Italy's most beautiful places in the company of those who know them best. The families who grow grapes and make fabulous wines. Through their stories, we'll learn not just about their wines, but also about their ways of life, the local and regional foods and specialities that pair naturally with their wines. And the most beautiful places to visit. We have a wonderful journey of discovery ahead of us, and I hope you will join me. Welcome to wine food and travel with me, Mark Millen, on Italian wine podcast. Today, we head to Lombardia, Lombardy, to the beautiful Maureen winehills that lie below Lake Isaiah, one of Italy's hidden treasures to meet my guests, Sylvano Brescianini, president of the Franca Corta consortium, and also chef Maro Zacchetti of Ristorante Al Malo. Welcome, Sylvano. Welcome, Maro. How are you both today? And is it a beautiful day in Franca Corta? Yes. It is. It's a beautiful day. Suddenly, spring is coming, and, I'm very well. Thank you. Hi, everybody. Thanks for having us. Thank you both for being here. I think it's an important conversation because I really want our listeners who are located all around the world to come away from our conversation with a clear idea of where Franca Corte is, what the wonderful wines are like, but also an impression of the rich anogastronomia, the foods, that pairs so well with this wonderful sparkling wine. Now Sylvano, Pranche Cortez probably Italy's most prestigious methodo, classical sparkling wine. It's a wine of great style, prestige, and quality. But perhaps because it's produced in relatively limited quantity, it's less well known outside of Italy. Would you agree? Yeah. You know, we are a a small region only, three thousand and three hundred hectares of vineyards, and production is around, twenty million bottle. But Italian loves from Chacorta, And the the main market today is Italy, but we are working in order to open new markets. K. What percentage would be the Italian market compared to Italian market for us is more than eighty five around eighty seven percent. And the rest is, export. The main market are, Switzerland, Japan, US and Germany. Okay. That's really interesting. That's even higher than I thought Italians really love Franca Corta, and it is, a line of prestige to celebrate, you know, great moments and also just a wonderful line to enjoy at any time. Now because the wine is less well known, perhaps, to our listeners who are located around the world, Sylvano, can you, help our listeners to locate you? Can you explain where the Franca Corta wine zone is, and what are the features that are so beneficial for the cultivation of grapes? Of course, Franca Corta is in North of Italy. We are just in the middle between Milano and Verona. Below the Lago Dizio, Nikizio, we are more any hills, and also a small mountain just where the Priarpa starts. The location is important because, seem important to our financial independence because, help to keep a warm temperature in spring to avoid frost. And, especially in summer, in the night, bring a fresh wind from the Balica. So, we are a small, region, but, with a beautiful landscape, many, many old house, villa, monastery, castles, and nice to visit. As a fun Chacorta consortium, Today, we represent one hundred and twenty two Odusel from the bigger to the smaller, of course. That's a good overview of where the wine zone is. Lago dezail that you mentioned. This beautiful lake that is around the vineyards around the Lago de Zale. It's a big lake. It's bigger than I expected when I visited, but it's not so well known as perhaps Lago de Colmo or Lago de garda. But it's a an area that I think that's one of the reasons why our listeners should visit. It's still undiscovered as an area for tourism for foreign tourists, perhaps. I know Italians love to go there. But also just as the wine is undiscovered, and we'll be discussing the cuisine with chef Madrill as well because there's some wonderful foods to discover. Now, Sylvani, you mentioned moraine terrain. This is very important in Franca Corta, a moraine terrain that's been scoured by the glacial movements in the ancient past. Is it that Marine terroir very important for the cultivation of grapes? And what are the varieties of Francacorta? Yes. Of course, the Marine is important, but at the same time you have some older soil, visit mainly in whitestone, format by the sea, when we hear we hear the ocean. The variety in front of Chacorta are mainly chartery, around eighty percent. Pinanoa, around fifteen. And Pino bianco, it'll be less than five. Ten years ago, we start to work in order to, rescue, old variety called Erbernet, and we introduce it into the the the roots of this Pinaro for Chorusa, two thousand seventeen, but today is still under study and less than one percent. Okay. So the classic great, Chardonnay, primarily, pinot noir, pinot Bianco, and the small proportion of Erba Matt are the ancient variety. Now these grape varieties are either blended in a couve or, in some cases, Blonde Blonde or Blondeenoire. They could be single varieties. But this is, the couve to produce classic method sparkling wines. So Francacorta is this land of sparkling wines. Tell us about the methods of production. You know, the rules of, from Chacorta, in order For the quantitative model, you can produce for Hector. At the minimum age, are descriptor in need in Europe. So we can produce less than other region. We have to age it longer than other region. But variety, you can blend all The limit is only for the Pino Bianco. You cannot go up to fifty percent in a blend. And as well for the herb mat, you can now go up to the ten percent. But, also, one of the countries from Chacorta, unique is the Sustain. Satane, it's, from Chacorta, always brand the blank, not pinot noir, and all that can be used. But, sateena. It's a name in order to show the elegance, at the very best of our satin. Always, but the blanket always need to lower pressure in order to be more creamy, more silky, more elegant. Okay. And I'm sure that that we'll be discussing with chef Marro Satain is also a wonderfully versatile line at the table. Now you mentioned as well the aging discipline. I think this is very important for our listeners to understand. For me, Franche Corta is a wine of great complexity. A wine, first of all, that happens to have bubbles as well, but the base wines are high quality and complex. And complexity also comes through time spent on the lease during the secondary fermentation in the bottle. So tell us the aging discipline for Franca Corta. Of course, I also agree talking about why I'm not talking about sparkling. How often Courta non vintage must be aged in butters only at least eighteen months, who became twenty four for the satin and the Rosay. In order to be vintage, so single years, have to be aged thirty months. And in order to recall it, Sancha Corta, eliserva, must be a vintage, aged five years, six months. So very long, long aging. But, the percentage of, from Chacorta, Svera are growing And, today, our consumer, really looking to see how Francesorca can show during the years. And, different producer present a very, very old vintage can be ten, fifteen, or even twenty years old. This is important because, I can show how in this region we can produce, wine, can be able to age very well. Okay. I think that is a very, very important distinguishing feature of Franca Corta. I've tasted some Franca Corta wines of over ten years aging. The bubbles still fine and persistent, but the autonomous this that happens during the aging on the leaves has really given a richness and a complexity to the wines that make them really fascinating. So that's an overview, a brief overview of some of the styles of Wine in France Corte. You mentioned one hundred and twenty producers in the consortium. Is that right, Sylvano? Correct. One hundred twenty two. Okay. A hundred and twenty two. Now those range from the large producer the well known names whose wines are perhaps more readily available to very small producers that are making the wines on a much smaller scale. Is that right? Correct. As some producer, they sell only in a wild way where maybe sometime they have a tasty room or or more restaurant or ugly to reason. Yeah. That's what I found fascinating when I was in the area last year, and it reminded me as well that in Champagne, for example, you know, the the grand marks that have brought prestige and name to the champagne wines are, of course, well known, but equally interesting can be the appropriate air reco tont, the small growers, where the wine is made on a different scale. Of course, they won't have the resources, the reserves to blend and maybe have the consistency, but it's an important part of Fancha Corta that I think our listeners who will come and visit the area should also explore. Now I think an important event has just taken place that I'd like to turn to and learn more about the festival primavera cheebo, a cold tour. Can you tell us about that? Perhaps chef Mauro, can you tell us about the festival that has just taken place? The festival is a very important project that, consults your talk about us. We were very happy to have some chef come in our kitchen to share different kind of food culture. And, what we did, they call a couple of chefs. There are two brothers called, Alex and Victoria manzoni. From a Mission Star, restaurant in Bergamo. It's called Osteria Dela Sonica, and we had a great lunch with them. So we split the menu in two different parts. So in which they made their own place, their signature dishes more based on a vestibule. Meanwhile, we present dishes more based on, meat and fish. So it's a very, very nice joint venture And this was happening in other restaurants as well during the festival. Yes. Of course. This bringing together outside tastes and cultures into Franca Corta. Yes. Every restaurant has a guest chef So, every every restaurant and and chef was free to call whether a friend or, another professional chef. That's what we did. Yep. And people in our guests were very happy. That sounds a really, really great opportunity to, to get to know both Frances Corta, but also to bring people in with other, styles and influences. Now, Sylvano, can you explain that the what the goal was behind the festival primavera, Chibo ecole tour? Was this the first time it took place? The festival, our classic festival is in September where the wineries are open. They do many events into the vineyard into the winery. In spring, we used to do something in May, but this new version of the festival was ready to start in two thousand, when we were at the COVID. So the series of COVID was the first test of our festival. That's, we choose to start again after the COVID, of course, The idea is to open not only the warranty, but mainly the monastery, the castles, the villa, to show the the culture, the history, you know, from Chacorta, and also give the opportunity to our guests that to have a very important, experience in a restaurant in Ariturismo and to spend a weekend in the region to see the the tassel or the villas, but also food experience and, of course, enjoy the wine. So it's a new beginning for us for this spring festival. And, of course, we'll, improve next year and next year again. But, in order to this year, to this weekend, we are happy for, our first step. Okay. Well, it sounds like a very, very good event. I like the way you're bringing culture and food and linking it to wine because, of course, The wine that we know is a relatively recent wine, but grapes have been cultivated in your area for for at least a thousand years or longer. Is that right? And then, of course, the the creation of the Franca Corta sparkling wine that we now know of when we hear the name Franca Corta came about, I guess, starting in the nineteen sixties. Correct. The first bottle of Pinai from Chacorta was created from Frankudinani in nineteen sixty one. But, the region's older has often happened in Italy in Europe, a production line was important since, Roman's time. But in the immigration infrastructure, we are lucky because we have, especially two extremely important books written in, the first in fifteen seventy. Libel's Divino Bardacci from Jirolam Conforty. And, his doctor was talking about defense increase in mine, produced in the region, five centuries ago, always a lot. And, at the same time in fifteen sixty five, the economist, Gustino Gallo, returned the the d g and the vintage Jordanata that is is also talking about the field to increase the mind, colored Mordacci. Or dachshunds as well. The Erbamat, so we know this indigenous variety was already present, five, again, five centuries ago. And, this is extremely important for us because, show how they, have a family that can enjoy during in the villas, during party or, special events. Also, fifty fifty Crispy wine in the first quarter. Five cents ago. It's a lot. Yeah. It's a lot. And that is fascinating. Fascinating too that, this rediscovered grape, Erbamat, dates back at least that long. Just a brief question about Erbamat, I know it's been an important new addition to the discipline. What does Arbamat bring to the wands of Franca Corta, and why has it been introduced? I think, it's our, commit must be our commitment to work and understand this variety. And, you know, we start, fifteen years ago, and we need at least more fifteen years because we we also need to prepare the wine age and see the aging. But, We are talking about a variety of, white grape. This variety ripe, and we have this normally six, eight week later than Chardonnay. And we normally, harvest in October and, he's a variety who bring a a good level of Citi and, not too much alcohol, but, again, another important characteristic. He said, this variety is pulling polyphenol. So this make this, this wine from Arma mater really interesting for for blending, for a minor to age, it should read a bottle for, yes. I believe, makes sense to study. Today, we don't know if in the future would be important, but, for sure, it's our commitment. Even because it's not, not often happen where regional can show our IT indigenous with a five cents history and then we are lucky. It's a gift from our history. Yes. Yes. That's that's true. Okay. Well, let me return back to a chef model. Chef model, can you tell us first of all about Al Malo? I see it's Yes. It's, Cucina, Cucina, and michel at Cianna. That's the Italian word for mixology, because, what we wanted to do in the beginning, so we were three young guys, Alberto Maulo, so Al Malo is, the initial letters of, our names, Alberto Malo, and Lodovico. And, Lodovico, he was born behind the bar desk. So he's, a bartender. We wanted to mix kitchen. So good cuisine with, mixology. Of course, wines, of course, French a quarter wines, but, of course, also, some cocktail to pair with the dinner, with the lunch, or to go for a parity box for aperitif. That's great. That clears up the name. I wasn't sure what that meant. Maru, can we talk about some of the most typical foods of Franca Corta, some of the most typical dishes that every visitor that comes to have a stay on the Lago Diseo should make sure they sample. Italian wine podcast. If you think you love wine as much as we do, then give us a like, and a follow anywhere you get your pods. As Sylvano said before, Francacorta, it's not very big, but it has, different landscapes. It goes from the lake to the hill or the small mountains. So you have a very interesting variety of, of food between all the land. Of course, when you go to Lago Dizio, you must try the fresh water fish. And one of the most known product is, Sardina de Montezola. Montezola is an island, the biggest Lake Island. They fish this sardinia, this fish, and they try under the sun. You can eat it whether with pasta, or you can grill it and eat with some polenta. And I think that's one of the highlights of a Lago Dizio. Yes. Actually, I've when I was visiting, I went over to Montezola and sampled the Sardina de Montezola, and a very fascinating food that I think is protected by a slow food, prosidio, very, very interesting flavors, very intense flavors. What I thought was quite interesting as well was that Franca Corta wine actually went very well with this strongly flavored dried fish served with polenta. So we have a very elegant, very beautiful wine, which because of the freshness and the acidity also paired well with this rustic flavor of the lake, this intensely flavored dried fish with polenta. I guess it's a sort of foods that would have been the foods of the working people in the past. And now, of course, it's a It's a specialty because there are not many producers of the Sardinia left. Are there? No. Exactly. There are very, very few small producers that fish in that way. But, you know, as you said, that, pharmaceutical goes very well with Sabina Montezo. I think Francacorta goes very well with everything from the beginning of the meal till the end. That's always a good opportunity to open a bottle of Francacorta. Yes. I think. I think I'd agree with you on that. Now I think it's also interesting that you said that the varied terroir of French Acorta also gives chefs a varied range of ingredients from the mountains, so to the lakeside. What are some of the most typical products of the area that you can then, as a creative chef, make use of in your restaurants, and in some of the other restaurants that are in the area. Because I know Francacorta is a very elegant line, a very prestigious wine, and there's some beautiful and prestigious restaurants in the area as well. Yeah. Well, you know, there is another product, manzo audio that's beef stew in olive oil. The highlight of this dish is that, the beef meat is still with olive oil and, anchovies. It's like a surf and turf, you know, meat and fish together. It's lovely. And, actually, I don't make it at the restaurant because I think that there are some people who can make it far away better than me. I tried to make it, but I did it in a different style. So I use it to fill up some fresh pasta, some ravioli, because our cuisine, I mean, the, in the restaurant, Almalor restaurant, it's not, traditional, but, of course, our roots are here. So we need to know the products and, the techniques to step up. Of course. So this, what would be the Franca Corta wine to pair with that? It sounds like normally one one might reach for bottle of red wine. Can Franca Corta pair well with the way to your dishes too, do you think? I think the The rosé goes very well with the manzalolio. Roset, it's made with a variety of, pinot noir, pinot noir, because very well with the meat. The meat is a bit fatty because it is cooking in, in olive oil. And the bubbles helps your mouth for the next bite. Yeah. Of course. Now just briefly tell me a few of the signature dishes, then you would be serving at All Malo. Well, right now, we are in a lot on on the vegetables. One of the most, like, dish is the beet root cook on the barbecue. This dish has a funny story because we wanted to give a new life to this vegetable because Usually, beet roots are eaten, for my experience when I was a kid with my parents at the sea. And, we went to the beaches, and there are the hotel that usually serve beet root salad, and nobody usually eat them. So I want to give a second opportunity to this vegetable. So we smoke it on the barbecue, then we serve with some, fresher boil and, hazelnuts. And, that's a appetizer. That sounds wonderful. Yeah. It is because it's, you know, every dish has to have a story behind. It's not just cooking for, just just for cooking, you know. It's it has to mean something to us. Yes. Absolutely. And I guess, every restaurant will be following their own path in the area, but I know it's an area that people come to enjoy the food, to enjoy the wines, to enjoy the beauty of the countryside. Sylvano, how important is wine tourism in Frances Corta. Is it well developed? And do you see this growing? And is that part of the work of the consortium to help promote Franca Corta as a destination for people to come and discover the wines? It's growing. Absolutely is important. Not only for the tourism, but producer are glad to give opportunity to consumer to see how we work in the vineyard, how we work in the valley, the philosophy of the house, at the side of the house. It's extremely important for both, for the consumer to have this kind of experience, but at the same time for the point makers to, talk with the customer and, and then, what is important for customers. It's extremely important for both. It's growing. We try to support the hubs. The widely want to do activity in order to promote. But at the same time, we are really open, and extremely working in order to build a new experience. Today, three weeks from Chacorta is not only visiting, one day, but you can visit castles, ministry, Of course, the lack of detail, you can run around with, bicycle, or, horses. You can, swim in the lake. You can do many, many different experience. That's a good thing for our listeners to know. As I said, I think Lago Dizio is less well known than some of the other Italian lakes, certainly for foreign visitors. That's all the more reason to visit it. And our listeners are located all around the world who travel to Italy, will come to Franche court to to discover the wines, to discover the cuisines, and to discover the culture, and the beauty of the place. Thank you so much both of you for being my guest today. It's been a real pleasure learning more about Franca Corta, about the wines, about the cuisine, about the festival that will take place next spring again. And I look forward to returning to Francha Corta. So thank you both very much. Thank you very much. We hope you enjoyed today's episode of wine, food, and travel. With me, Mark Millen, on Italian wine podcast. Please remember to like, share, and subscribe right here, or wherever you get your pods. Likewise, you can visit us at Italianwine podcast dot com. Until next time.