Ep. 2157 Luigi Di Majo Norante of Di Majo Norante | Wine, Food & Travel With Marc Millon

Monese is, most definitely the, most unknown region in, in Italy, is located on the southeastern coast of Italy just between, and the Brutzo. Until the seventies used to be actually part of Abruzzo. Then for political reason, they split up. It's a very nice region. You start from the Eastern side to the coast and you go up to the mountains at the border with company in Abruzzo, so lots of different things to to see and visit and, different cultures. Welcome to wine food and travel with me, Mark Miller on Italian wine podcast. Listen in as we journey to some of Italy's most beautiful places in the company of those who know them best. The families who grow grapes and make fabulous wines. Through their stories, we'll learn not just about their wines, but but also about their ways of life, the local and regional foods and specialities that pair naturally with their wines and the most beautiful places to visit. We have a wonderful journey of discovery ahead of us, and I hope you will join me. Welcome to wine food and travel with me, Mark Minon, on Italian wine podcast. Today, I'm delighted to travel to one of the least well known and visited of all of Italy's twenty regions, to meet my guest, Luigi de mayo Norante, who's from the region's leading wine estate, de mayo Norante, in Campo Marino, many, many thanks for being with us today. And how are you? Is you harvest over now, and are you able to relax a little? Hi, man. Good morning. Thank you for inviting me. I'm very happy to be here and talk about Melissa. No, with the harvest, we're about to finish. I think next week will be the last week. We still have some Shano to harvest, but we're about to to finish now. Okay. So it's a quite quite a late harvest where you are, Luigi. Yeah. Because actually, this summer has been really hot. So the maturation of the vineyards was in an was anticipate, really. But then in September, we started to have, a colder weather with, not too much rain. So this is good actually, especially for direct wines. Because we're able to keep our, bunches on the on the vines for longer and, increase the phenolic motivation. So, actually, it's a good thing for, for red wines. Okay. That's great. Now, first of all, Luigi, our listeners are located all around the world, and many may not know much about Malise. It's a secretive region that, you know, we we don't hear about as much as we should. So this is an opportunity for you to take us there to tell us, first of all, a little bit about Melise. Okay. So, Maurizze is, most definitely the, most unknown region in, in Italy, is located on the southeastern coast of Italy just between, Pulia and the BRutso. Until the seventies used to be actually part of Abruzzo. Then for political reason, they split up. It's a very nice region. You start from the Eastern side to the coast and you go up to the mountains at the border with company in Abruzzo, so lots of different things to to see and visit and, different cultures. Okay. So you've got a little bit of the adriatic coast, not far from where you are. And then it's quite a mountainous region, isn't it? Yeah. Basically, it's a region, aper's low open. So where we're located is, close to the border with Pulia, about two kilometers from the coast. And then if you go up, you, go up in altitude, and you go towards the Abruzzo mountains and the companion mountains. So culturally was and historically was quite separate from Abruso because it's quite a recent split. If we talk about the ancient past, actually part of Abruso and Melissa together with Campania, was, part of the Saniti. Saniti was a population that was living in Mauriza, Campania, and, part of Abruzzo during, before the Romans. So we have, quite a long history culture and everything, but if we talk about the recent past, yeah, obviously, it's it's really related to to the Abruzzo for sure. Talking about that ancient past Luigi, the history of wine in Monizae goes back a very long time too. Doesn't it? Yeah. Actually, our family, so the Norante family, which was, noble family in, in Malaysia and the Pulia, start to grow the first, vineyards in the eighteenth century. Obviously, in that case, it was not a a qualitative focus on online. It was the way that the, you know, the the past generation were doing it. So, you know, kind of a farmer's wine, but we started, very long ago with, winemaking tradition for sure. Okay. Well, that's a good opportunity for you to introduce your family company and give us a little bit more about that story, starting in that time, but also moving into the present moment and what you're doing today. Okay. So basically in the eighteenth century, the Norante family started to to grow, winers and other kinds of cultivation in Malaysia. They used to own a lot of land, more than nine thousand hectares Then, after the second world war, there was the agricultural reform in Italy in which you can basically own not more than three hundred and fifty hectares. So already, in that case, properties, decreased. And also, you know, bad management of heritage and everything left my grandmother with around forty actors that she was cultivating with my, grandfather and they used to grow olives tomatoes wine, corn, and all sort of, stuff kind of the it's classical Italian, Masseria, or, or farm. And basically, when my father, Alezio, joined the wineries in the mid seventies. He started to focus only on wine. So his philosophy was to basically only produce wine and qualitative wine, which was an innovative thing in, in Moniza, he was the first in Melissa to do this kind of, taught, and also one of the first in Southern first in Southern Italy. So he started to look at all kinds of, grape selection to plant in, in Malaysia. Some that were actually from, local region, like tintilia. He rediscovered tintilia, which is the local variety. And, he planted different new varieties for Maurizas such as Alianico, as he saw the the conditions to, grow Ayianico, were great in, in where we were located. Then, obviously, she started to work also in a different way on the wine yard, which is very important. I think for a red wine, more than eighty percent of the wine is made on the vineyard, and he started to work also on organic agriculture. We have very particular conditions in our area that allow us, to work with organic agriculture without any issue. As we have a lot of ventilation that keeps all the humidity away, And also he experimented lots of, winemaking techniques in order to have the best wines as possible, the highest quality as possible that express really our terroir and climate conditions. That's a really good overview and really demonstrating how your family and your father in particular have been real pioneers in putting the wines of Melize, not just on the national map, but now on the international map, but because I know your wines are found widely around the world. I think that's part of your test now is traveling around. If you take your wines and to take Melissa to the world and explain where you are. Is that right? Yeah. Absolutely. So now the weyards count around one hundred and twenty hectares and produce around eight hundred thousand to one million model per year, and we're presenting over thirty countries. So, actually, that's a real a thing that I'm really proud of. Because when I go to meet, you know, people from Melissa that now live abroad, for example, in Canada, our Brazil or the US, and they come back to the region, they say, oh, it's really happy. I'm really happy that when I go to my country to live there, you know, I found some Melissa about tools, that reminds me of home. And, yeah, that's really nice thing for me. And, actually now in January, I just started to work in sales. So now I'm starting to travel all around the world, and it's very nice to go to explain Mauriza, you know, their countries because, obviously, it's not a well known region at all, not even in Italy. So worldwide, for example, in the US or, I don't know, UK or Germany, they don't know very well, Melissa. So it's very nice for me to explain the wines, our territory and, and everything. Okay. So your job as well as representing your family, Duayanorante winery, is also to be an ambassador for this not well known region. Yeah. Absolutely. Because I think the the region has a lots of things to say. They have lots of history, lots of beautiful places. And also, if we talk market wise, we, don't have any particular denomination that helps us with sales. We don't have prosseco Barolo Brunllo. Or this kind of determination. So we really have to explain to the customer what Melissa is, what our terroir and climate is, and to, like, then taste our wines and see how our quality potential. I'm interested too that, your family have been quite, pioneering in following a sustainable, an organic, form of Viticulture. What are some of the processes that you follow that are important? First of all, obviously, organic agriculture. So we don't use any chemical in, virus treatment. To preserve all the balance in the wire between nature and the vine itself. Obviously, another thing that we do is not to have parcels or wires too far from the estate. So we don't have to create emissions from moving the tractors or or trucks or so on. And obviously, we pay particular care on our renewal, where renewable energy, we use solar panels and we're about to use the only electrical electricity for our seller. Okay. So it's a, it's an all inclusive approach. In the vineyard and and its sustainability in the winery as well. Yeah. Now I know that, de mayo Norante make a full range of wines, including whites from grapes such as farangina, and and Fiano, is it? And as well as Resatos and sparkling. I'd like to turn a spotlight on three reds and three grape varieties that for me stand out as unique, unmistakable to Melize in the style of wines So starting perhaps with the Don Luigi from the multiple Chana great. The multiple Chana loves the Adriatic, whether in Molize, a a brutes or Lynn Marque. How does this wine express itself in your region? How does this grape variety express itself in the wine that you make? Yeah. So multiple channel is the grape that is most widely planted in Malize. I think over eighty percent of the wines are multiple channel. As actually were, related to a burrito in that case. The expression of multiple chan, it's very nice. It's one of the grapes that can stay longer on the plant, has a very, thick skin So, actually, this is very good. And, in Melissa, I would say the expression is very silky, soft, but also with a very particular and, soft toning. It has lots of cherry notes, red fruit notes, and, and vanilla. It's very pleasant. I think, it's very important though to keep the, aging process on control because, even though, you know, has lots of power is also quite delicate the taste, So you have to be careful not to cover it too much with, oak aging. So maybe use a less those to the baric or use a larger form of, of oak. That's softer style. A young wine or as well as a wine that can age No, it's a one for sure that can age throughout time for his, you know, technological characteristics. So it's a, it has a really nice CDT and PH that really helps him a lot to last throughout ages and also a very nice stunning. Obviously, it's a wine that's in last over thirty years for sure. Okay. Obviously, it depends on how you, you, you, you do, you, VINify it, but the way it don't do Egypt, it's made in particular. Yeah. It's, has a lifespan of over thirty years Sure. Okay. Now you mentioned that, Maurizio doesn't have recognizable de no me nazione like Barolo or chianti or Bruno. What about beeferinol? That seems to me a line that is, beginning to be known abroad that that this denominator is it a blend of multiple channel and alianico? Yeah. Absolutely. So the denominations that are starting to be known abroad are Beferno and, tintilla. So, Beferno, it's a blend between multiple channel and Alianico. And it's actually the first wine. So we we made in the winery. So in the seventies, we created Ramitello, which is our first wine, created that takes the name from the county in which, which we are located. So now it's and actually the street now that, in which we are located, it's called the Viavenor Amitello. So it's a very important wine for us. Actually was the the wine there in which we basically achieved the most important achievement in two thousand, in twenty fourteen. With the two thousand eleven vintage, we were in the top hundred wines in the world, with wine spectator. Okay. Great. So that's the Brefrenal. And the Anyanico, you said your father introduced that. I guess we're not that far from Urpina. Is that correct? In in Campania, where Anianiko, of course, produces such great wines. Yeah. I think we have an hybrid between, Tarazi, Ayianiko, and, Ayianico, der Volter, from basilicata. Oh, okay. As, the grape variety used is the, but the climate conditions are more similar to the basilicata climate because we don't have much rain, which we have a very warm weather. And also in terms of soil, we have some similarities. So it's kind of a between the two that create really, really interesting notes in the palette and on the notes. Okay. And what does the Anianiko give in blend with multiple china? Does he give a more elegant structure to the wines? So I would say the multiple channel part, usually gives a lot of, softness, fruitiness, and elegance, while Alyaniko gives structure, because obviously Alyaniko, it's a grape known for its stunning and structure. Okay. So it creates a really nice balance between, you know, power and elegance that really makes the wine interesting. So I'd like to turn now to a grape variety of wine you've mentioned. Already, which I I think is one of the most intriguing wines from Monizae. Certainly, you know, wine lovers are seeking to taste team Tilia. This unique variety cultivated only in Monizae. Tell us a little bit about the history of this grape variety and where it came from and and how your father began to propagate it and and bring it to the world's attention. So, the interior seems to have spanish origins actually. And, actually takes the name from the workinto, in, in Spain. It's a variety that was, that disappeared from Mauriza for many years. And then, in the nineties, my father started to rediscover it. It's still a very small production in total. The whole Melissa produce around, I think, fifty or sixty acres in total of tintelia. So it's still a very small, production. But throughout time, also other producers, started to to grow the the variety. And, started to be a really the flagship grade for, for Melissa. There's, lots of interesting notes, and it's also really hard to find a similar variety in terms of, notes, and the structure. So it's really unique. Give us a taste profile then of tea of your team teas. Okay. So, tintelia, the nose would have, blackberry notes, but samick notes, and pepper. At the palate, it's very delicate. It's also very important to do. I mean, for us, it's to do all the oak aging because otherwise we will cover too much the the notes. So the pilot, it's very delicate, well balanced acidity and a very silky and soft turning and, and a very long finish. The color, it's, a dark red, but not too intense. And, has some biorelet reflexes. Okay. Well, it's a beautiful one. I've tasted your your team Tilia, and it is a unique taste of Mollise. There's nothing like it anywhere else. It's interesting. You mentioned the Spanish origins probable origins of the grapevine. This is just a reminder, of course, that southern Italy below Abruzzo was, of course, part of the kingdom of Naples and later the kingdom of the two Sicilys under the Spanish and so the strong link with Spanish influence in in the region as well. Luigi, can we turn now to the gastronomy of Melissa to some of the local foods that that are important that when you as an ambassador for Melissa going around the world, and are really giving people an idea of what the region offers. Part of that is what the flavors of the region are. So can you describe some of the Piate T Picchi? Some of the foods at any visitor to Monice, they must taste and perhaps which of your wines pair well with them. Okay. So as I said before, you know, it's, a upwards loping region. So if you are on the coast, we will have dishes close more to seafood and, and fish. And, if we go up, on the mountains, we will find more meaty, meaty dishes. So, for example, on the coast, we'll have the Brodeetra termoletta, which is a kind of a fish soup. Made with the cherry tomatoes and then, all kinds of food. And it's very, very particular, has lots of flavor. And that one, for example, I would pair with the farangina for sure, so with a white wine. While if you go a little bit up, you know, actually, Melissa is one of the biggest truffle producers in, in Italy. It's it's not known like a, or Pemonter Tuscany, but has lots of truffle both white and red, especially on the mountains. And, in that case, I would pair it with Intelia. Costin' Tilia has the delicate taste that could pair well with, with truffle. For example, with truffle pasta or truffle eggs. And another dish from the mountains is the lamb. So green leather rebates are really, signature dish from, the mountains of Moniza, and that would pair very well with the sassius and, or the Donuigi because they really need some structure and tannins in the palate. Okay. So we we've got this little bit of a stretch of coast. There's not too much of the actual coast in Mauriza is there, but enough to enjoy, the Moliz Molizana version of Broadetto, this, great, seafood soupy stew full of the fish from the Adriana. And you're farangina. How does, farangina in Meliza express itself say, perhaps differently from Benavento or or Campiflegre, for example. First of all, Falangina has been re brought to Melissa, by the families in, in the 80s, who's basically used to have actually roots from Melissa because the the history says that it has some, the region, in fact, the denomination in Benaventes, but farangina del Sania. Sanian means of the, of the Saniti. So, also Melissa was part of the Sania. So obviously, it's part of the farangina tradition. And, for us, as being very close to the sea, we'll have lots of minerality and, humidity in the wine, and also lots of floral notes. So we, work a lot with temperatures to keep all the floral notes inside the wine. We do a very, very cool fermentation for the wine. And, also, our climate, has a lot. Our climate in the in the region has, especially on the coast. We have a lot of thermic difference from the day to the night. During the summer, we can reach up to twenty degrees of difference And this really helps a lot for the one year stress and also to express all the aromatic compound in the grape. So it will have lots of, white flower notes, a little bit of, tropical fruit, some, white peach lemon zest, and at the palate will be very, very balanced, and, and clean. Okay. So a full expression that would go well with this very flavorsome fish stew. Yeah. Absolutely. Luigi, I think Monizae is also a very important area for growing grain, and there's a a strong tradition of of pasta making. What are some of the typical pasta dishes of Monizae? And again, what wine pairs with them best? So we have the Kamatelli, which is our, regional pasta, which is, a small side pasta, and it pairs very well with ragu. Actually, with Lambragu, it's very, very nice, or also with, any kind of, mitragut. And I would pay it very well with, our Armitello or, with Intelia. Okay. A lot of Monise is a national park. Is that right? It's a a beautiful area for people to visit the national Parko Nazianale. And again, an area where Purdsmen have traditionally taken the sheeps up to the mountains during the summer months. And I guess from this, you have the tradition of of eating lamb, lamb is very, very important as it is in a brusso as well. But also I think there's a tradition of cheese making from both cow, milk, sheet milk, and indeed perhaps buffalo milk. Is that right? Yeah. Absolutely. So the most famous cheese from Moniza that has lots of tradition it's called Caso Cabaro. In Italy, we have different kinds of, Caso Cabaro, like in Calabrio or Sicily, but we have, the one which is round shape, and, usually comes with kind of a cord that binds one cheese to the other. And this is actually why it's called, because basically it used to be brought on horses. And so one was going on one side and the other one was, going on the other side. It's a cow milk, cheese, It can have different aging. So from, from fresh aging, where it's a kind of soft cheese, while when it's aged, it becomes very flavorful and, in particular. Okay. That sounds delicious. And what what wine would you pair with the cachacavallo? So with Kashkaval, I think you can go either with the red or white, depending on your taste and on the season. I would pair it really well with the farangina or with the raw material. Okay. Now, a food I've heard of, but not tasted is Pamparella. Can you tell us what this is? Pamparella. Yes. Pamparella. It's pork, roasted with some, with some spices. It's a very unique dishes. Lots of flavors, lots of, really crispy notes, of pork. It comes from San Martino Pencilis, which is, CT very close to us. It's about three kilometers far. And it's, it's very unique. It has, cooking process on the, on the over. And, have really, really unique flavors and flavors of Monice. And I would pair it very well, that one with, with our sparkling wine, actually, because it has lots of fat and, in structure. So the sparkling wine will help a lot to clean the pallet. What grape is the sparkling wine made from? So we do a farangina. We are now about to experiment, some rosé in Blancenoire, but for now, we are doing a farangina. We do around seven years of aging on the on the east. It's a very unique wine. I think we have, incredible expression of Farangina because have, the both the analytical and the floral characteristic to be a great sparkling wine. Okay. And just to be clear on this Pampanoa, is this something that you would eat? Is it almost as a street food or as an antipasto? How do you eat that? Yeah. I think it would match, like, obviously, it's most known in Italy. It would, be similar to porcate and tell everything. Okay. So you could have it, by itself with the side, in a panino. So in, in different kinds of expressions. Okay. Final question, Luigi, if our listeners who I, as I say, are located all around the world, make their way to Melissa. Can they visit the de mayo Nantes winery? Yeah. Absolutely. We offer all kinds of experiences. We are just about to launch an online booking platform. So they can see all the experiences and what we offer online on our website. But we offer all kinds of experiences. So from the panoramic wine here, the appetitivo, to the seller visit, to the harvest visit. So, our clients can come and see, you know, how we harvest the grapes, Also, we do the seller tour, so all kinds of experiences, really. Okay. So they just simply should look at the de mayo Norente website and they can make arrangements and come and visit. It's certainly something I'd like to do. Yeah. For sure. When whenever you want, we will be very pleased in the in the winery. I'll be happy to have you confirm. Well, Luigi, thank you so much for being our guest today. It's, been a real pleasure. You've been a great ambassador both for your family, Demaya Naurante. Winery, but also for the region of Maurizae, you certainly made me want to return to visit, and, I'm sure our listeners will too. And in the meantime, they're able to look out for your wines all around the world, certainly in many, many countries. So thank you very much. Thank you very much, Mark, for, having me. It was a pleasure for me to speak about our regions and about our wines. And thank you very much for the work you're doing, spreading wine culture around around the world. No. It's a pleasure. Thank you very much. Thank you, and, have a great day. We hope you enjoyed today's episode of wine food and travel with me, Mark Millen, on Italian wine podcast. Please remember to like, share, and subscribe right here, or wherever you get your pods. Likewise, you can visit us at italian wine podcast dot com. Until next time.