Ep. 2442 Giovanni Russo of Cantina del Vesuvio | Wine, Food & Travel with Marc Millon

Wine for Resullius even for the, DOC like Macrissey but also for the the Resullio DOP, produced with a few important varieties, which you can find only here in Movis. Mostly, we are talking about Capretona for the white grape, the white grape, and then it also falls directly. They were reported both by Roman people over two thousand and five hundred years ago from Greece. So you can imagine how long this tradition is, in this area. Fascinating people with stories to share, fabulous wines, and the best local foods to accompany them, and beautiful places to discover and visit. All of this and more on wine food and travel with me, Mark Millen, on the Italian wine podcast. Join me for a new episode every Tuesday. Welcome to wine food and travel with me, Mark Millen, on Italian wine podcast. Today, we traveled to Campania to continue our special sub series that focuses on this beautiful southern Italian region, its wines, gastronomy, and things to see and do. Today, we traveled to the province of Naples, to the slopes, of Vesuvius, the still active volcano, the towers and stands watch over Naples and the beautiful Bay of Naples. To meet my guest, Giovanni Russo, who is wine girl at his family, Cantino Vesuvio. Giovanni is also responsible for the promotion of the consortio tuttella Vini Vissuvio, the official organization that oversees all aspects of the production and marketing of wines from member wine producers who grow grapes, and make wines on the volcano. Buongiorno Giovanni. Thanks so much for being our guest today. How are you? I'm fine. Buongeli, thank you so much for inviting me. Not at all. I'm I'm really, interested to hear more about this unique environment where you live and work and make wine. First of all, before we go into more detail about Vesuvio itself, tell me about yourself. You're the owner of Cantina Del Vasuvio and are continuing your family's own legacy of growing grapes and making wine, as well as extra virgin olive oil and vinegar. Is that right? Yes. That is right. Thank you so much again. I'm part of the family, so my grandfather's after this business in nineteen thirty, we are in the Casa inside the mission of of COBesuvius is also a very semi carrier between the cocaine on the side and the good for Naples on the other side with Capi Island and it's also lent. We produce likely Macristi wines, part of the Visube denomination, like Macristi, the traditional wines of this area. And, we are also one of the winery promotes the wines everyday to taste things, we see it's a wine experience with people coming from all over the world. So we are very proud also to have the same order, the nomination of order than our winery with everyone visiting us. It's also a good point to invite you all on moments. This is a very unique place in the world. There is a lot we can say about this area. About the tradition, the history. It's, definitely a place where you should spend some time moving your life. Okay. That well, that's a very good introduction to you telling us something of this story. About Vesuvius. It's extraordinary volcano that most famously erupted in eighteen seventy nine blocking out the sun, bearing the cities of Pompeii and herculaneum and bringing untold death and destruction. But Vesuvio's been relatively quiet for some time now. Is that right? And although there's always a threat that it could erupt, the rich volcanic soil All around where you're living and working Giovanni is fabulous for growing grapes and not only grapes, perfusion of other wonderful things to eat. Take us to Vesuvius. Take us to the lands covered by the consortio and describe this unique place for our listeners. Tell us what makes it so special for growing grapes. Yes. Miss Ubers, as you said, it's such a unique place And, of course, it's very well known because of the seventy nine eruption of destroyed the Pompeo and all the area. But since the seventy nine, the studio says, been very active to the, you know, So the products we grow on our lands are very, unique, very powerful in terms of, organically speaking as well. This is because they go on a volcanic soil, made of ashes, palm is lava and a lot of minerals coming from the past eruption of the service. Last eruption was in nineteen forty four, so it's sleeping since then, likely for us, the service, give us a lot in terms of generosity is a very good place. Thanks to the fertility of its soil where we can grow vines, but not only vines. But also the subius is the only thing who can destroy all around here. So it's harder to explain how we live here. How we manage our relationship with the volcano. You should live here and understand, lot of things to want to see How special is the life around Vasuvius? That's really, really fascinating to consider. The fact that Vasuvius last erupted it, did you say nineteen forty seven? Nineteen forty four. Yes. Nineteen forty four. A very different volcano than Aetna, which is constantly erupting dozens of times each year and releasing the pressure that builds up. Vesuvius, on the other hand, is very, very different. Is it something that you think about in fear? I've spent time in Naples, and you can't not be aware of Vesuvius. It's such a looming presence, a beautiful mountain that really stands over Naples and the Bay of Naples. The strange things is that, at least for us living here, we don't think about it. People are coming from, everywhere in the world, and they ask, how can you live here thinking the resource could adapt, every day because it's a still active volcano and sometime we have also had to work, around us so we can hear the activity. And this period, they're also even better because there are, there is another volcano company for Clay, which is, very active in terms of a pathway. So it's hard, but we don't think about it. Actually, we feel like connected. When you go, when I go here, you feel connected with this territory. For example, when I go even the invitation of of somewhere else in the world, after a couple of days, I feel the needed to stay I'm on the studio. See, it's a way we used to how can I explain for you? It's very hard when we travel, we don't need GPS. We look at the service. We know where we are. It's a lot for us. And, this volcano is different than others than act. Now, for example, as you say, that now is very active volcano, but it's also much bigger than Vasubius is three, four times bigger than Vasubius, and tall and then the service. So this makes a very different situation around it. The service is a small volcano, born from, which was the ancient complex or the one who collapsed during the seventy nine eruption. And then the result came on from the inside. And so it's a small volcano, which you can drive around within thirty, forty minutes. And it means that we all are very close to it very, with our roots are very big into the service where I live is also the red zone. But there are over two million people living in the red zone. For this reason, you can imagine if there will be any option how destructive it could be but nobody thinks about it. It's not much for us. We were born knowing this possibility, and we are ready to die for it because in the meantime, it's giving so much to us. So it's a very special relationship. Okay. Well, that's beautiful to hear about this relationship. As you say, it gives life as well as the possibility of of destruction. Life through this incredibly fertile soil that as you say is so good for growing grapes and other things, Tell us a little bit about the area covered by the consortio. Where people are making wine and, a little bit about about the work of the consortio and the number of members you have. And That sort of thing. It's interesting to think of people who, as you say, are dedicated to living in the red zone, living on the volcano and working, this beautiful land. Yes. Absolutely. The consumption of the Suvio was created to bring together local producer to protect and promote our unique working clients. Since as I told before, the Suvio, it's a small area in the entire of the there are around four hundred hectares of cultivation for the the which is not a lot. If you go in order to the path of the region even in Campania, maybe four hundred hectares are covered by one of two producers. Here, there are around twenty, twenty five producers and over fifty, sixty farmers cultivating all the vines around Vasubas. But Vasubas is actually divided under the consortium in Chua Ava, the Pompayano, IGP, which is all the province of Naples and the Vasuvio, Deopietta, which is only the one within the nation of Babco, Vasuvio, surround the crater around the corner. And, inside the, we are also allowed to produce the black electricity, do you see, which is like our cool wine, our best in terms of the nomination product. And the the consortium of is is working heavily despite many challenges here by here to promote such unique and small production all over the land world. We always say that if only neighbor city knows, will know the importance and will give enough importance to our product. We will sell our wines even before they have Unfortunately, it's not like that. So we have to promote the wines and the best way to promote wines is to promote our territory, which is unique and which is a known everywhere in the world. Is probably the most famous would came in the world. So it's quite easy for us when we go somewhere to let people understand where we are. And, this is a very important point, for us. Okay. One for Resulu's even for the the DOC like Macrissey but also for the the Resuvio, produced with a few important vavais, which you can find only here in Mubezuvius. Mostly, we are talking about Capretona for the white grape. The white grape, and they will also fall directly. They were reported both by Roman people over two thousand and five hundred years ago from Greece. So you can imagine how long this tradition is in this area. Because, since the Roman time where, governments have been, planting these vials of Mobis to produce the wine, which they exported from the port of Stavia, actually, castel Amari the stabian here from Bay here, they exported this wine all over the roman empire. And today, we still preserve those wines, especially Capetone is only here also is also more common in order the wine area of Campania because still the Romans exported the in Sanio, in the Campifecre, in all the Maple area, in Eastka Island, all the Roman areas where they have been living. Okay. Well, that's a that's a really, really important overview. And this link with history Pompee, of course, was a city awash with wine. It was a city where wine was traded, where wine was drunk. And I know there's an archaeological site just outside of Pompee at Bosco real where a Roman farm has been excavated that really shows how wine was being produced two thousand years ago. So a lengthy history of growing grapes on the volcano. Let's talk about one of the DOP that you mentioned, which is perhaps a wine that many people around the world may be half encountered because it's been produced for quite some time. Before, I think, the consortium. And that would be the Lacari Macrisi. Would you're a a producer of? Tell us about the name first of all, and then tell us about the wine. Alua Lacrisi means the tears of Christ. There is a a legend about that. It say that Christ was here among the solus. He was looking at the beautiful landscape I mentioned before. So the good for Naples, the Vasuvius still the peninsula of Saveto Kaffi Island. So he recognized this as a part of paradise who was stolen by Lucy when he was sent to paradise. So he moved and from his years, we're more than likely McRista. Actually, like McRista, as you say, these are very famous wine. It was exported all over around the world, especially in US you know, the New York, even before the consortium was made. This was thanks to all the master of Veradin of Emily. During the nineteen twenty, nineteen thirties. They've been producing these wines and spoating, especially, as I told you before, the in America, where a lot of, yeah, holitons and Italians were immigrating. So they were looking to drink something from their county from their land. So they were buying this like Macrisse and promoting this like Macrisse. This is also the reason why it's very well known since, at least a hundred years from today. Okay. And tell us about your own Laque Macristi then. Is this a both a white and a red? Yes. La Macristi is the domination of these wines, but then it can be white, the Jose or vep. We actually here at Cantino Resulla, we only produce Lagumacrysti wines and with or in six different type. But we have two white, and three different lates. According with aging and also great selection. We have different products. What we mostly do is, to produce like a magazine using an hundred percent of the great dimension before. So, Capetone for the white. I believe also called the band. This is to give, very important influence of our of our land because we have many visitors coming every day taking, part of tube and tastings. And what we want is to give them in the glass, sensation of the soil and the minerality. The, activity, the local characteristics that they've borrowed from this area. And the and the also are the ones who, under the, a certain point of view, came give the best explanation of the solutions. Even if, due to the regulation of our DLC, we could use also their grapes like IBMico for the rate of Valentina for the white. But we do another percent of, for this to reach this goal. And we are very happy with that. The people, calling from everywhere to ship and ask for our wines. We also have a gimmick, which is actually, I must say, not difficult to be here, obviously, because thanks to the climate, two AM, and the the temperatures, the weather conditions, it's not really hard to be organic. And this is always thanks to the resilience and how it is made around this area. Okay. Are there many organic producers on Vesuvius? Evidently, yes. Most of the producers are converting to the organic production, which is good. Also, for the future, we think that the sustainability goes together with the quality and identity. And producing organic is, an important part of this, goal of this tradition. Okay. And let's just talk about the other two, Dino Manazione that you mentioned, the vesuvius vesuvio dopp, and of course the Pompiano EGP. Yes. In those products, there is a little bit more flexibility. Also, I forgot to tell you, like, McRista is that you'll see we also have a ministerial label who, certified this d o c. This is not the same for the Pompayano even if we are working on that as well. But Pompayano and the the studio d o c are made with the great still cultivated or move as soon as all the Naples area going from Naples to preventive. There are, like, fifty kilometers of coastline where it's allowed to grow these grapes and get these, denominations for the products. And, for example, Pier de rosso from Viesuvio comparing that to Pier de rosso so from Campie Fllegre. Are there great similarities or do the wines have a distinctive character? They have, of course, some similarities, but we always say that fifty percent of the taste of the flavors of the characteristics are influenced by the soil. Campiflegre is still a volcanic area, but is totally different in terms of soil of compositions, even different in terms of exposition, to the weather conditions, climate, and so on. This is also very different, but the the nice thing of a solution is that since he's a a corner, you can actually go around it and find different characteristics all around it even if you still drop any also because on the southern side, we have more exposition to the sun, and the soil is much younger because it's coming from the recent eruptions of the suttus. If you go on the northern path, you are on Munt Soma, which is actually the pre historical complex of the volcano. So the soil is much much older. So it's totally different. And also you have exposition to the north. So more cold than the south. And this is, the nice thing of the service. You can drink Pedro of Capetone from four, five different wires. You will always find something different. Takes to the shape of Esuvius. Okay. That's fascinating that, as you go around, and is there a train that actually circumnavigates Vesuvius? Yeah. There is a trade in Cicun Vasviana, which is also a very easy way to reach some wineries. Even as we offer a free shuttle service to the local train station of Cicun Vasviana, and they could be a good way to reach many wineries and they have tastings, maybe the same day. You can have three or four different tasting wines and see. How complex and how different the wine area around here. Despite is a small wine region. Okay. That's fascinating. A small area, but with great particularity to changes in terroir going around the volcano. Let's turn now to you've said that Giovanni, this is such a fertile place for growing not just grapes, but other food products. Tell us about some of the food specialties from vesuviel is one of some typical dishes of from your area that really every visitor should sample the wines alongside particular foods. Share with us a little bit about the gastronomy, the foods of vesuvial. Yeah. Yeah. Actually, we could talk about this for hours, I think. Because there is a lot on vesuvius. There is a lot from Naples, which is also influenced by the service. There is a lot also from the which is still also influenced by the service. Because the source is not only here on the mountain, on the volcano, but his influence in terms of, as adoption is everywhere in campaign. So these also influence the gastronomy of our province. I think this area is one of the best region in Italy for the culinary option. And also the wines produced in this area are perfect to be paying the wind local dishes. Here for example, at the winery, here at at Cantinalo, we offer a light lunch where it's allowed to taste I'm all spaghetti pasta with the pinna or tomato sauce. So the pinna or tomato is probably one of the most special product that we have here on this August. It's a very unique shaped tomato. It's very hard to find that we have to book it at least an ear in advance to get it for our tastings. Then in terms of vegetables, we still have, like, eggplant. We do parvigiana. I guess you'll know this. Then we're famous for, in Lasanya. There is a lot. There is a lot for sure and the best way to know about it is to come here. So I still invite you once again. To click the first flight to possible and come in the solace and experience. However, land under the wine point of view, the food, the point of view, the landscape point of view, the archaeological sites point of view that is a lot. Wonderful. And I think that you're making many listeners to Italian Mind Podcast want to jump on the next plane to Naples. You're certainly making me want to. And this beautiful blend of landscape, wine, and food, that pairs so perfectly. Now if people jump on that plane and come to Naples, how well developed is wine tourism on vesuvio? Both at Cantina Delvisouvio, you've said that you're very welcoming to our listeners, and I'm sure many will find their way to you. But what about, in general, with some of the other producers? Is this tiny because it is a very small wine region. Is this somewhere that is welcoming? Actually, this is a good question because in the past, when my father started doing testing, all the other producers, everyone in the town were looking about him as a crazy person because twenty, thirty years ago, the wine tourism was not a worth. It was nothing. Then, the situation, the tourism changed, and people are always looking to travel for the, wine and food purpose to get, special experiences in terms of the traditions, culinary tradition. So this kind of tourism is growing a lot. And many other one have started doing the tastings, lunch, experience about wines and so on. This is good because we are creating a very unique district and also in, the wine tourism is a perfect way to escape from, market, issues. These days, for example, we are talking a lot about tariffs in the United States. Also, the wine, consuming is not in his best shape during the last years. And the the goal for the wine is, it's not going to be less and better. And the doing wine tourism is the way to achieve certain goal and to be resilient in a very difficult market situation. This is, the reason why many of the wineries are opening the door. And today, I can say, if you come to as soon as there is a lot you can do when visiting this. Okay. Well, that is very, very good to know. You're right. These are challenging times for wine producers across Italy, for wine lovers as well for people that enjoy discovering wines that are not that easy to find. And certainly vesuvius with the unique environment for growing grapes that you've described so well, is a zone that I urge our listeners to discover. And as you say, it's very easy because so many people come to Naples, and there is this train. And I love the idea of jumping on the train and visiting one or two wineries, perhaps stopping at Pompee because I know there's a train station there and continuing around the volcano to taste and discover a unique land. Giovanni, thank you thank you very much for describing Vesuvius to us for sharing the story of continued, but also the work of the consortium and what a unique and special place this is. Thank you very much again, and I wait to hear. Thank you. I look forward to visiting you the next time I'm in Naples. We hope today's episode of wine food and travel with me, Mark Millen, on the Italian wine podcast has transported you to somewhere special. Please remember to like share and subscribe wherever you get your pods. Likewise, you can visit us at Italian wine podcast dot com. Until next time, Chinchin.