Ep. 908 Elmar Hofer | Wine, Food & Travel With Marc Millon

Welcome to wine food and travel. With me, Mark Millen, on Italian wine podcast. Listen in as we journey to some of Italy's most beautiful places in the company of those who know them best. The families who grow grapes and make fabulous wines. Through their stories, we will learn not just about their wines, but also about their ways of life, the local and regional foods and specialities that pair naturally with their wines. And the most beautiful places to visit. We have a wonderful journey of discovery ahead of us, and I hope you will join me. Welcome to wine, food, and travel with me, Mark Millen, on Italian wine podcast. Today, we travel to. Italy's northernmost German speaking region. To meet my guest, friend, and fellow Italian wine ambassador, Elmar Hoefer, who is now the head Sommelier, at the acclaimed three star Michelin restaurant, San Ubertis, in the Rosal Pina Hotel located in the heart of the stunningly beautiful Italian dolomites. Jo Elmar, how are you today? Joe Michael, hi. I'm fine. How are you? Yeah. I'm very well. The sun is shining here in England today. So, it's a nice day here. Elmar, tell us a little bit about about your background because I know you had a completely different and a very exciting career before you became a sommelier. Well, my life for coming some of your life was a little bit different in in a lot of ways. I actually was, a professional, a ski, a ski alpine skier, for around, fifteen years. And to quit the ten two thousand eleven after a few decisions to, to take, because getting older, few injuries and so on, I had to make a decision and and What what, discipline did you ski in? I was, basically downhill and Subisky, Suboji. Wow. It's a few few world cup races, a few, are are you European cup Wow. Wow. That's, that's crazy. That must have been an amazing, amazing career. As a professional athlete, was was food and wine important to you? Did you have to watch your diet? Were you able to enjoy wine. I was able, but always in in a small quantity, of course. And, food, food was, a really big matter. Of course, you had to watch your your what you're eating, keeping on diet and so on. Uh-huh. Just so you kept super fit. Yes. Absolutely. Well, downhill skiing, I think, is, you know, watching it, both in person. I've seen some races and also on the television. It seems one of the most dangerous adrenaline fueled activities. How have you replaced that thrill today? Oh, no. That that's a good question. I think you cannot really replace this this adrenaline kicks, what what you were doing during a race or during a downhill, it's really difficult because that's still living in a completely other world. And so, my life got a little bit easier. Let's say that and and quite a absolutely. Yeah. I can imagine that when you don't even have a second to think as you're racing down the mountain. Now did you always have an interest in and a love of wine? And after you retired from your careers in Alpine's year. Did you immediately turn to wine as a profession? The interest was was always there also during during my career as a skill. But, after I quit it, in two thousand eleven, the first few years. I was still, I've made my my instructor, my ski coach, examinations, and everything worked a a few years also as as a ski coach for, a young, young children's under sixteen. And and slowly, during this period, I I came a little bit to know more about wine and then two thousand fourteen, my wife, my girlfriend, now wife, pushed me a little bit and and said, so let's try this, if you want, if you really like this this sector, this, let's try it, start to to make the, summary a course in in Alto Adija, see if you like it. And, yeah, I got stuck in the business. Wow. That's amazing. I guess being from Alto AdiJ. This is where you grew up, you were always immersed in that gastronomic culture that such a part of life, the enjoyment of of good food and wine would have been something you grew up with. Absolutely, you know, Artuagia has, are really, different culture than than the rest of Italy, basically speaking, everybody, German, a smaller language, and, they influence the German influence, but a lot of Italian influence are, absolutely from from the side of the food. So it's really interesting, this mix show this combination, and, yeah, really nice, interesting. Yes. That mixture that you find in the in the wine is itself, which, we'll talk about, also the wine itself. Yes. Now you've actually achieved, a huge amount in a short space of time. You're via Italian wine Ambassador. You gained your certified ice sommelier qualification. You've been a judge for five star wines and now enrolled in the Court of Master sommelier and you're soon to be taking over this important position as head so many a in one of the very best restaurants in Italy, a a place that has an incredible wine list. How did you achieve this? Did you did you naturally have a a really good palette. And what do you think is most essential to be a good sommelier? Well, I think, it's a combination of of many factors to be, or what's, what makes us so many successful. I would say the ballot, it's one of the most important things to have, but, you have to train it in a in a long time of your life, or if your family live, and, they are, you have, have a, a hanger to learn, to taste different styles to never stop experimenting, so you can grow a little bit. I I think I'm, I'm just at the beginning of my of my career and, keep going on, tasting, tasting, and, improving, your, your knowledge about wine. It's it's a fundamental in this in this business. And then, of course, the hunger, to never stop learning and, keep, you up to date because the wine business is moving so fast along. Changing, basically every day. So you need to to to keep studying. And, that's, a little bit what what what what what makes a summary And then, of course, you you have to to have a little bit of luck as well to get to meet the right persons, and and to have a little bit the right inference from the right persons, so you can improve even more in in this business. And and, I think, as as as I said, you learn swimming in a deep water, just, sometimes you have to to try yourself out and to to go a little bit over your limit to to get better. Yeah. I, that's a good analogy, in it, in it, the deep end. And you certainly are in, at, a very serious deep end in, really, one of the most beautiful places you could be working at the Rosa Alpina in the heart of the of the domomites, in the heart of the ski country. So I guess you feel very at home there in the winters. Tell us about this special place. Yeah. It's a it's a really beautiful place, especially in winter, but also summertime. Now I I learn, even more, appreciating the summertimes in in in in the dolomites because it's it's you can do everything. You can do biking, hiking, running. It's really, beautiful, beautiful place over there. Yeah. That that sounds beautiful winter and summer. Absolutely. Elmer, you work with a great chef in the restaurant, San Uberitas, with, Norbert Nederkoffler. What's he like to work with? Norbert, our chef, it's, let's say, really, really inspiring. If you think back in the time when he started now his new philosophy. He was a little bit in, in, in front of the time. So you can say he was a little bit of a pioneer of of his, you know, of this philosophy of the sustainable kitchen in the in the fine dining sector. And, it's, really inspiring to see him work and also, to work with him. So, the front of house team works closely with the kitchen team then. Absolutely. I think, on this level, with what where we are, there is the submission. You have to work, really, really closely with the kitchen. It's, has to be a teamwork. Yeah. Otherwise, it's it's not working. You have to be synchronized front of house team with the kitchen team. If not, you, you, you cannot not achieve this this this level. Now, you've mentioned Norbert's belief in sustainability and provenance, and this philosophy behind the concept, cook the mountain. Explain a little bit about what that means. Cook the mountain. Okay. Let's say cook the mountain. It's, his philosophy starting, to evolving two thousand eight, two thousand seven. He got his second start with a completely different kitchen, then it's not what we have. So two thousand eight, he he retinked a little bit his philosophy. And, coming back to the to his origins, let's say, like this. Our philosophy is this retaking, just local products or, let's say, products of the mountain regions coming ninety percent of of the products, what we are using in our restaurant, completely from our region, from out to AdiJ. But, the rest, ten percent from the mountain regions are going over to, or to Belgamo, but also Veneto and, for Julia. It's Julia. So we're staying in the mountain regions, and, this keeps us a little bit, different from other restaurants in in the area. That's amazing. A hundred percent than from the mountain, this alpine environment. So it's a really specific local cuisine that he's honed with relationships with the producers. Absolutely. It's a, a corporation with really small producers we are buying directly from them. So there is no intermediate buyer, we can we can talk to them directly. It's a lot of work because you have to plan ahead, of course, because, we are using only that what what the nature is giving us. So depending also a little bit of the of the time in the year, our menu in the restaurant changed a lot, especially during summertime, can can be that, every second day, we have new dishes on on the menu because we get some new new herbs, new new vegetables, and so on. In the wintertime, it's a little bit, more, steady, let's say, because we have to reuse every everything, what we what we work to you, what the kitchen work during the summertime. Well, that's amazing. And I would imagine then if the menu is changing, can change that frequently in summer months, for example, that one of the most interesting aspects of your work as a Somenier is tasting and discovering and discussing the perfect pairings for the wines to enhance in a company the foods. How difficult is it to to continually come up with the perfect pairings for the of lines and foods? Quite quite difficult. Let's say, because sometimes we have really, really, complex dishes with a lot of, different flavors and, acidity levels, so giving a little bit, difficulty also, also, to us, to the, this, the whole summary stuff, finding always the perfect matching. That's why we are not on the using, wine. We have also some beer in, in, in the pairing. And, yeah. Wow. That's, that's, that's really fascinating. Now, this philosophy behind Cook the mountain of sustainability, local provenance, seasonality. It would seem to me that this would favor pairings with the local wines, the great wines of Sutturo Alto adige. And there's certainly no shortage of them where you are. You know, you have an extensive wine list from your own area. Tell us about some of your favorite wines and what has to uniquely offer on the Italian wine list. Well, in ElTO, basically, we have we have everything covered. We we're going from sparkling wine, classic metal, white wines or red wines to sweet wines. We cover basically the whole, the whole pallet. My favorite wines, if you're going a white wine, I would say it's a pinot bianco, really special, and important to our region, one of the most important white wines what we what we are producing in in in in in our to Alidje. And afterwards, when we when we're talking about red wines, of course, we have to mention our two method of bravery, the Fernach Skava and afterwards the lagrange. Yeah. And so those are very much food wines, wines that that can, and of course, a different expressions of of, of Skiava, for example, can can it be a fresher style or a more deep style, depending on the dish. Exactly. Yeah. Because, you know, depending also a little bit on the producers, we have this really, really light, fresh, fruit forward style from from the Kiava, but then we have also a little bit more, structured, more mature, evolved, Skyava style that matches, and also a little bit better, the, the meats or light fish dish. What does, Pino Bianco have that you think makes it a truly great white wine in its, you know, in its best expressions? I think you saw a very balanced wine, nice acidity, but giving also a nice minerality in the vine, and this nicely, fruit flavors, fruit characters making it really, really easy to to to compare or to to pair with, with the dishes. Now you mentioned that, being a sommelier is means you never stop learning. You're exploring wines from around the world learning about wines from around the world. Sandubertis has a very impressive wine list, including some of the greatest wines from all over the world. What are some of your other favorite wines in wine regions? And perhaps areas that also can pair well with the, with the Cook The Mountain menu. Yeah. Our our our wine list is is really, really great, really, a huge wine list and, all all this this, this is was only possible because of the of the love, of our, restaurant manager and, former head chef, had some Lucas. Lucas. He's usually a great guy. He he teaches me a lot, and, still, looking forward to work the next few years with him, to improve myself. And, if you're talking of, other wine regions, for sure, at the moment, German riesling, it's it's one of my really favorites, when we're talking about white wines, and then there we are going from from the most region to Down Rijn Hessen Rheingau and also Naya region, there are really some outstanding, wines, and they are fitting, very well our, our, our menu, actually, as well, because this nice activity, giving a little bit of balance to our dishes, let's say, like, this. Mainly in the truck and style or can the sweeter wines also pair well? We we are we are pairing, also some sweeter wines. We haven't had, for example, additions, our tribe and there we are serving, a riesling house laser because this, this sweetness fitting very well to this, fatty dish. Wow. That sounds amazing. And then if you are talking about a red wine, let's say, of course, next to the Italian wines, from PMont, and all over touscany and, the rest of Italy, I would say I would, being in the in France and in burgundy at the moment. With some really nice, opinion bars. Those beautiful, classic expressions of burgundy. Elmer, you said learning is never ending in the world of wine and food. What is next for you? How are you going to keep progressing? Well, the next, big step is, taking a certified, exam for the Court of Master, will be end of July. So that's that's a big exam in the Court of Master Sommelier is a very high qualification setting, you know, involving a lot of study. Yes. A lot of study at the moment. So, fortunately, I have, a little bit of free time now, because we are closed at the moment of the restaurant just reopening first of June. So I have a lot of a lot of free time, let's say, like, this, and, helps me a little bit to go in easier with the study. And, then afterwards, I guess I do my, W WSTT diploma. I just, made the level three last year. So, I will go for the level four and the diploma afterwards. Yeah. All very high qualifications. And, as you say, the world of wine is evolving, such pace. It's incredible just in Italy how things change so so quickly. So it is essential to keep, to keep learning. What what the last few, the, let's say, the last decade, was so many changes, and, it's keeping evolving. And if you not, not be up to date, it's really difficult to to work in that sector. Yeah. I mean, for example, Elmar, when we were in Aetna together, for the Gita Skolastica. I mean, it was incredible how some of those wonderful wineries we visited were so recent, so young, producing such great wines. Yeah. Absolutely. This was, amazing trip, and, we met a lot of really nice person's people, the young wineries. And, if you think back in ten years ago, twelve years ago, Aetna was almost I'm bundling it, and, but now it's already coming back and, coming back strong. Yeah. Certainly is. Final question, Alvar, when you're not working, what do you enjoy doing most? Well, besides of, eating and drinking wine, let's say I'm I'm still, moving myself, a lot of sport, in summertime, so for sure, of course, hiking, running up in the mountains, but also biking, playing tennis, golf, And, in wintertime, when I have time, I I appreciate to have a nice, ski day or ski alpinism, going up, through the the woods and then, skiing down and, the fresh powder. Oh, wow. That sounds like, a wonderful balance of life that you've created for yourself. Yeah. You have to to have a little bit, this this life balance because, if you just work, sometime, it's going to be too much, and you will not, be at, the top level you you want to be. So, this this balance, you you were biking us well a lot. I saw you last week It was in Portugal. Right? I was I was biking in Portugal. Yeah. Yeah. So I you keep your feet as well. So, you know, what I'm talking about. Well, Elmar, it's been really, really great to catch up with you to hear about all your life and your plans. And I really hope, we can meet again soon. I just wanna wish you all the best with with your future plans, with the reopening of, Rosal Pina in June and and your work is the Hensomeli there. It's been a real pleasure, and I hope to see you soon. Thank you, Mark. It was a pleasure also for me, and thank you for having me. And, yes, let's, let's hope to see you soon. That would be great. Okay. Absolutely. Ciao for now. Thank you. Ciao. We hope you enjoyed today's episode of wine, food, and travel. With me, Mark Millen, on Italian wine podcast. Please remember to like share and subscribe right here or wherever you get your pods. Likewise, you can visit us at Italianwine podcast dot com. Until next time. Hi, guys. 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