
Ep. 844 Fanny Breuil Interviews Federico Giuntini | Clubhouse Ambassador's Corner
Clubhouse Ambassadors’ Corner
Episode Summary
Content Analysis Key Themes and Main Ideas 1. The unique identity and historical significance of the Chianti Rufina appellation. 2. Selvapiana winery's pioneering role in producing 100% Sangiovese Chianti and adopting organic farming practices. 3. The critical impact of climate change on viticulture in Tuscany and specific adaptation strategies implemented. 4. The challenges and opportunities faced by small, traditional wineries in a competitive global market. 5. The intricate behavior of the Sangiovese grape as influenced by diverse soil types and microclimates. 6. The dynamics of generational transition in a family-owned wine estate. Summary This Italian Wine Podcast episode, a recording from a Clubhouse session, features an in-depth conversation between host Fanny Brouil and Federico Stucchi, owner of Selvapiana winery in Chianti Rufina. Federico provides a historical overview of Selvapiana, highlighting his family's early decision in the late 1970s to produce 100% Sangiovese Chianti, even before it was legally recognized, and their pioneering commitment to organic farming from the late 1980s. He passionately distinguishes Chianti Rufina from other Chianti sub-regions, emphasizing its unique northern microclimate and soil, which contribute to the elegant and high-acidity profile of their Sangiovese wines. The discussion explores specific vineyard plots like the flagship Bucerchiale and the newer Erke, detailing how terroir influences grape expression. A significant focus is placed on the profound effects of climate change on their viticultural practices, detailing adaptations such as later pruning, altered canopy management, and specific soil treatments. Federico also touches on the challenges for smaller wineries in the market and expresses pride as his son, Niccolò, takes on cellar responsibilities, ensuring the estate's future. Takeaways * Selvapiana was a trailblazer in Chianti Rufina, producing 100% Sangiovese Chianti from the late 1970s, establishing a trend that later became legal. * Chianti Rufina possesses a distinct microclimate (cooler, more rainfall, dramatic diurnal shifts) that yields elegant, fresh, and high-acidity Sangiovese wines. * Federico Stucchi initiated organic farming at Selvapiana in the late 1980s, significantly improving soil quality and wine characteristics despite initial skepticism. * Climate change has necessitated substantial adaptations in viticulture, including later pruning, strategic canopy management, and specific soil preservation techniques. * Different vineyard plots within Selvapiana, such as Bucerchiale (clay/limestone) and Erke (limestone/iron), produce notably distinct expressions of Sangiovese. * Wild animals like boars and deer present a significant challenge to vineyards, capable of destroying a large portion of the crop. * The next generation, represented by Federico's son Niccolò, is actively involved in adapting the estate to modern market demands and maintaining high quality. Notable Quotes * ""His [Francesco Giunchi's] main efforts were to improve the quality of Selvapiana wines, but also to have to push the other colleague or Rufina to do the same."
About This Episode
The Italian wine club at Clubhouse is hosting a coffee and wine club with members of the team. They discuss their past experience in the wine industry and their plans to participate in a presser. Speakers discuss their current projects, including their past experience with wine production and distributing wines, and their desire to adapt to the climate crisis. They also discuss their unique population, challenges of learning to improve the quality and distribution of wines, and the importance of forest in growing grapes and the need for a national team to improve the quality of wines. They also discuss their experience with organic farming and the challenges of working in a remote region.
Transcript
Welcome to this special Italian wine podcast broadcast. This episode is a recording off Clubhouse, the popular drop in audio chat. This clubhouse session was taken from the wine business club and Italian wine club. Listen in as wine lovers and experts alike engage in some great conversation on a range of topics in wine. If you enjoy listening, please consider donating through Italian wine podcast dot com. Any amount helps cover equipment, production, and publication costs. And remember to subscribe and rate our show wherever you tune in. Welcome everybody. It is twelve o'clock, New York Times, six PM in Europe. And this is the Italian wine club at Clubhouse. And today, this is, you know, what you guys you guys know the drill. This is what we call the Ambassador Corner. So one of our ambassadors at Lodge, they invite one of their favorite producers. And they get to kinda do the deep dive. It does last about sixty minutes, and we've done this for some time now. Leica, what what is the, how long have we been doing this? Well, this is actually we've we've started this in July eighth with Cynthia Chaplin and Aldarto Tasco. And then so from them, we've been continuing this regularly. And now this is the thirty thirty third episode. Thirty third episode. Age of Jesus Christ. Luckily, I'm agnostic. Okay. Alright. So today with us, we have. And, by the way, I will tell you that This will be replayed on Italian wine Podcasts. I don't know when that's up to Joy, our producer. Hey, Joy. Are you on? I am. How's it going? Are you guys missing me yet? Well, I was gonna say, when are you coming back? I'm actually coming back. I'm leaving today, but you guys probably won't see me because Monday, at the crack of dawn, I have to go to London. So you'll probably see me Tuesday. Hey, Mark. Mark, are you in London? You should come. You should come to we're we're doing a presser. Joy, can you reach out to him with, with some of some of us? Yes. Us from the back office. Manuel has all the information. You should try to come back to the presser. It said it said it's about away. He wants to speak now. I'll let him speak. Mom? I will be with you. I am coming. Oh, you are coming because I didn't see your name on on the list. So Yes. I'm looking forward to it. Oh, great. Alright. I'm very, very psyched. So I'll see you in London. Few London. Okay. So let's get this started. So we are here with this very funny with that very heavy French accent because she's French, but she has believe it or not. She is our Italian wine ambassador. She did the course, in June, last year. And where you asked at least one thousand questions to Professor Shenza, I believe. And I was But everybody enjoyed the answers. Right? Yeah. Yes. I was this this woman is either going to be really do really perform really well in exam, or she's she's completely going to fail. Luckily, you you pass the exam with, you know, with stars, you're one of our seller students. So it's Fannie. Fannie Brou. Brouil. How do you how do you say your last name? Well, you could read it, like in Italy, b r o g l I e boy. It's boy like the Italian boy, b r e u I l boy. And she kept on saying, so by end of the course, everyone was saying, So Fanny's very famous. She came to you came to Aetna with us. Oh, no. Where did you? Yes. We yeah. She came to Aetna with us. This was So she just started, but she's already been on a Jetas Colaskica with us. And so tell us, you you also would work with Ellen. Yeah. And I'm sure you've heard the course through Ellen. Right? Is that correct? Yeah. Island from Ellen. You're right. Yes. Yeah. Yeah. Because Ellen had done a course, few years back, actually. And she's coming back. To receive her exam, so we're very excited about that. So, Fanny, tell us a little bit about yourself. Where are you based? It says, but where where is that exactly? Three hours driving from Paris, on the west. It's so is that close to the water? It's close. Well, it's it's do you know not? It's Yes. Yeah. No. So I am It's one Howard driving east from North. This is the region, the wine region for, for, it's also a wine region. Yeah. So you first started as a winemaker. Right? Yes. I studied agronomy and the technology in Toulouse. Yes. And, first, I wanted to be a winemaker so I worked on in production in La loa, in Italy, in Amelia, and in Chile. And then I moved I followed my husband. I moved to the United States in which state. Oh, you have one husband. I you never talk about your husband. I just wouldn't think you're unmarried. Well, it doesn't change what I what I do. Yeah. Okay. That's fine. Just to contextualize your life. Okay. So I moved to, a state where there is no wine production, Wisconsin, in the United States. Oh my goodness. And, I I I have had a a great experience there actually, and I work for wine importer. Which wine? Swiss allowance. Okay. It was mainly importing Swiss coins. Yes. I I gathered because never heard of it myself. And this is where I discovered, wine sands. I end, explain education, explanation, and the wine passion. I had to, to work on, on an area as a sales rep, and I, I had customers, which whom I was talking discussing about wines, and I really liked it. And when the project was finished, and when I came back to France, I wanted to continue working one group and and selling their wines abroad with this international vision. Right. So in two thousand and eight, I founded the Genevines, and, I really wanted to help Wangres located in lesson on, region. Regent I could explain more. I could, bring the focus on. And I started working with Juara and Emilia Romania. Why Emilia Romania? Yes. With La Sala and then ping, Emilia Romagna. Exactly. In the same time, I started with these two domain, and and I grew up I I developed, the portfolio. It remains small to really worked as a self as, each with each team. Now, I'm I'm more working for each of them. Now Ellen is working, we're working together. And, there's our French and Italian domains. Yeah. I love you too both very much. So listen, Fenny. So, what what give me some of the names of your timeline producers. I work with Cogenti from, Sabatina, and Volu in Emilia Romania. Which one tool, sir? It's a small winery called Dina Volo. Okay. He produces giulio Armani. He's also a winemaker at La stopa. He produces, Oh, mister winemaker. Yeah. And he has his own project. He makes white wines with the skin contact macerations for more orange wines and tunja also in Tuscany. Okay. Both whites and reds. Wines, also sparkling wine. And I work with Tinutagrillo. I import the wines in I have a small activity importing wines into France. Teutagrillo, they are in Guamalero in Piamonte. Also having a small production in, a company into Fielo in the middle of Compania with Fielo. And, I import also arian occupancy once to France. Do you have, I mean, do you not exclusively, right? With how does that work? It depends. While, there are small producers, the the the most important is having their their wines well distributed. That's the most important thing to me. So in my region, in the world, North West part of France, Yes. I can have the exclusivity, but if there is someone else far away with a distribution well organized, yes, of course. It can can work also with the wines. For some producers, they don't have enough wines to be everywhere. So I have an exclusivity, but Ariana Capinci, for instance, I'm not the only French, watch Yeah. Yeah. I had imagined. So listen, I see fermented boss. He is actually Hugh priest. Have you met him? Nope. You no. You haven't met him yet. He's one of the big active members of, of course, Via, the Vineetri community. And he had interviewed in a few months ago, Ariana Okeypinki, in the past. I was gonna yes. I remember. For anyone who hasn't heard that, listen to that, you know, have go have a go check it out. It's one of our more popular episodes. Okay. And hi to you. Sorry. I couldn't meet you yesterday out. It was like yucky. It was snowing. So I just I just jutted. I love, you know, I love, Javits very, very quickly, but I was supposed to meet with him. So sorry about that to you. Okay. So let's go on with the show, Fanny. I know, of course, you've chosen federico because he's one of your wineries but why else did you choose federico? No. It's what it's not the the the main reason, actually. Yes. Because we have had this discussion before, and this this this is not to promote. It's more to share, the the very deep and and history. And I think it can be interesting also for us knowing more Sanjayville. So the reason why I selected Federico is what I love. I love the wines. That's for sure. But, I think they had this domain has a great dedication to local grapes. Here we are in Tuscany. San Jose, it's the number one most planted grape variety in Italy. So it's interesting to to discuss, more specifically on about this grape in this wine region. And and what I really liked with the Victoria and La Piana is the fact there have been the first or part of the first domain making Kianti with only San Jose. And I'm talking of I'm talking about the period of, nineteen the end of nineteen seventies. Right. So this was kind of the popular trend now. You know, it's it's important. People are talking more and more about it and which is true. It's it's a very good, trend, and we need to do more. Already they were making this choice, which was not an easy choice at that time. I think this is, also interesting for us to to listen to their experience and observation. I really like the wines fact that in this wine region, the wines are able of long aging and become very complex. But also what I I really like is that federico is really humble. Well, the the picture see, the picture, it's not him on the flag we can see. It's a glass of white red wine. Yes. So he's he's very humble. He's very respecting. He respects a lot to his colleague. He's very respected too. And, every high professional journalist, will describe a Lokena as one of one of the best from Cantic Rufina, even able to compete with Cantic Lascico, and they never take advantage of this. The the so, this is something I'm very sensitive to. Okay. He's the dude I met, at VIN Expo. Right? Yes. You did. Yes. Okay. Alright. Alrighty. So listen, what about the learning objectives? Well, Sanjay. This will be, a great experience for talking about Sanjay. How do we adapt the climate change to this grape? How the grape is behaving on different soil, different micro limits. Pederico has two, works on two, DOC, Kanti, Kanti Rufina, DOCV, and Pomeno. So, I think this is interesting to, to hear him. He has muscle selection. He works with clone. Well, think this can be very interesting. Alright. Listen. So, Fanny, I've made everybody mods. So I'm going to jet. I will I will be listening to you guys, but I gotta do a lot of shit like pack and do everything and hopefully did until my sister's car away. So, okay. Alright. I'm leaving you. Have fun, and I will hope to see you guys all very, very soon. I'll see you Monday, Mark. Up to you. The mic is completely up to you now, Fannie. Tell you, Lee, thank you very much for the moment and introduction. Ma'am, thank you very much. Let me introduce you to everyone. So, Puerto Rico, you have grown up at, your your father was the estate manager of the domain from nineteen fifty till nineteen eighty. And you have always wanted to work at the domain. Just after high school, you you already started working at Selva Canal, mostly learning from the old estate team. Of course, you have also studied at University of Florence for agriculture for two years. But in nineteen ninety two, you were already involved at the domain and trying also working, with organic farming. You had, you have a background of active green movements, and this is, why you were interested in organic farming. You are very linked to Ruffina, and you love being the ambassador for Ruffina. In nineteen forty two, Franchesco Junchini, who was the the owner of the domain, decided to legally adopt you and your sister because he has, always considered you and Sylvia or your sister as his family and he has no children. And, this is a pleasure for me to, to be with you today. My pleasure, for me. My pleasure. Federico, Francesco, Anthony, your father, He's a very well respected person. Well, I was just saying before he has been a leader for many other producers in Canti when he decided not adding, more Merlo or Cabanet in the in the county blend in nineteen seventy eight. So someone very respected by lots of people and, many whangers followed, his past. What has been your first challenge when you took the domain over? It's a long story to make a long story very short is that, Franchesco in the seventies, due to his, family relationship and to his network of friendship, was involved fast together with Luigi Veronalli. This was the most important wine writer that we had here in Italy for for the beginning for many years. He very rarely found group of producer in an association called the VEDET to start to promote independent, small estate, and to improve quality on many wines. So being in this group or producer, where there was, great producer like, the Shireeto and many others of the great producer, Italy. Francesca was in the in the group of producer. They started the renaissance or Italian and Tuscany wine. Then it's it's always new that roofing out deserve a much better place in the wine world that they used to have in the seventies. So his main efforts were to improve the quality of Silicon wines, but also to have to push the other colleague or roofena to do the same. In seventy eight, he's also hired a very one very young winemaker to help several people to improve the wines. And he's, Franco Bell, and Frank is still working with us, and it's been a long relationship. And one of the first thing they did together was to take away white grapes and other grades from their county this era. And that was back in seventy eight. Then in seventy nine, they also started to to produce and to bottle a single vineyard this era. It's called Vinietta Bousheciale. There is the flagship wine of Sabapianis, the wine that made us a little bit well known in the wine world. And in seventy, in those years, was also the years of the many wines and many producers started to improve county wines by pushing their wines out of the appalachian. The appalachian rules were very strict and not very clear or at least you had to blend white grapes and other things. So many wines became Vino D'atavala like Ergoletorte, La Chanelho, and Chaparello, and many others, but Francisco that is very honest and legal, etcetera, decide to keep calling Wuxhekale, county roofing a reserve, even if it was not legally a county because it was just Sanjuvayse. But in this way, he made roofing a a little bit better known and put Rufina again in the map of high quality wines. I joined Franchesco just after high school in eighty seven, and the great challenge was to learn fast and then try to help him to improve the estate. The estate at that time was, a little bit smaller than nowadays. At that time, we had only twenty five actors of vineyards. Now we have something like sixty actors of vineyards. We all started to replant and to improve and to acquire also a little bit, some new areas to plant Vignets. So it's been a long training and never finished training, time. But the main effort was to understand every single vineyard, Sabakiana, and to understand how to improve the quality and how to plant better vineyards, how to increase the quality of the seller, increase the quality of the wines, increase distribution. It was quite a long story. Mhmm. Thank you. Did did you did you say that first, it was not allowed to put to got all, half a percent in this operation. Did you say that? Oh, yeah. Sure. The company was not legally one hundred percent. That's why Other producers decide that their one hundred percent San Giovanni will not be in the appalachian. The, again, Parigulietorten, Flachanello, these great wines started to be produced outside the appalachian rules. The the appalachian change, probably two thousand five, two thousand four, they became legally to do one hundred percent Cant or county classical. I see Paul. And this group of wines. These group of wines, they were called at the beginning, Vino da towel, and then they became the very famous super tuscany wines. Some were just under racist armored a little bit with the international varieties as well, like Tin Niello. Niello has been the first of this group of wines. Oh, that's great to to move the to move the lines sometimes and to to help improving the the the the the population. One day, you told me that Canti is the third most famous Italian word after Chawanpizza. It makes me laugh, but, my question is, is it hard to be in Canti Area and to have a county where a big aside roof now? Or or is it helping you for promoting the the wine? It's, in my opinion, being county It's always been very hard. Back in the days, again, Luizio Veronelli, I was very, very young. Probably was, nineteen eighty, nineteen eighty two. He was here visiting Francesco, He told Franchesco that if Ruth and I want to become a serious and very famous area, we had to be away from Canada. Because already at that time, the idea in the consumer mind in the market is that the good and great count is classical and all the others, the poor cousin or county class. So it's been a long year to try to have all the other producer here in Rufina on this, agenda. Is still not yet, but I wish next generation will understand this because, first of all, we had nothing to do with the rest of county in terms of, soil climate and, like, and wines. And second, also back in the days in seventeen and sixteen, when the Grand Duke of Tuscany, cosimo Texo de medici, made the first law in Europe and probably in the world to protect and to give views to wine areas. Our areas was not called Cant. It was called roofing a Pomeno. So we were already very different from county classical and from the rest of Canada. The mistake came in the thirties, nineteen thirties when the DOC of County was made and more more or less old task and it became Kian. And then started and made, probably at that time was even, right. Because there was a very high demand of wine, There was not enough production. Italy has many problems. But nowadays, I think it's time for a change, and I wish sooner or later everybody understand that roofing is not guaranteed, but it's just roofing. So what's the, difference between Cantular roofing and canticle as you were mentioning, they are very different. But the main difference is climate. First of all, roofing a, as you know, is the northern appelation of Kianti. It's also the smallest, but it's the northeast. We are northeast of Florence. So that means that we are very close to the benign they divide tasks coming from Emina Romania. The APIN had us to have, a much different microclimate. And, also, the rivers Sierra, the rounds in the middle of our population had also to have a a different climate and very unique climate. And the main difference of this climate is that we are probably the area where we had the more rainy area And also, we the area where we had the longer ripening season because we arrive very late. Our Sanjay writes very late, but also, and that was making the real difference is that the difference, the street the difference in temperature between night and day are very dramatic. So in this way, the grapes of roofing are always keep all the fruity aroma, all the freshness, and a very good acidity. So that's the main difference. The wines of roofing are normally the wines that probably not big body wines, not in a normal standings, but very fine and elegant wines. And you are talking about bucerciali, which is your emblematic wines, produce only from San Jose grape. Can you tell us more about bucerciali, about this plot specifically? Has always been been the best place for San Giovanni. So it was very easy for Franchesco and my father in Franco Bay when they decide to make a single vineyard to pick Mushekales the best. It says a very, good slope, very steep slope, southwest facing. The first parcel of was planted in nineteen sixty eight and the sun joe base there is on a soil. There is a very mix as clay, limestone, very strong, very fresh soil, very deep soil, and very well drained soil and very rich of, we say it's very rich of stones. So there's lots of minerality and there's lots of, fruity aroma and very terroir driven wine. Hello. The the San Jose who is planted on this climate and this type of soil because you have different type of soil and climate in your in your winery, you know, on your estate. How would San Jose behave here in Gucciale? First of all, the main difference here at South Africa, we can see between the new plot that we bought, living at Oerke compared to all the other vignettes, very similar because they're all around the the property. The only difference is, exposure. So it's a question of, rattling time, not of, quality. First of all, the the the The main difference, I mean, the most important thing of the Busher Calo San Giovanni is the long ripening season. So and the fact that the Busher Cali Finiance has such a great, richness, yet a very well balanced grape and very fresh and, ripe grapes. Sanderes is not an easy grape to grow. First of all, it tends to be a little bit more fertile than other grapes. Tend to have a little bit too tight, very, too tight grapes, and it doesn't have thicker skin. If you grow and if you have a fungible to write well, it makes extraordinary wines, a very terroir driven wines. At Bushachialidoran, we have a little bit more higher sugar than the other vineyards of Silvaryana. Yet we have a very good acidity and very ripe and fine tennis. The only problem is very rainy vintages. Because there's a little bit of, clay. So sometimes, rainy vintage are not so perfect for bush as the clay retained a little bit to or most territory to the water. So the battery tends to grow a little too much. Otherwise, the Busard Calo San Luis is quite unique. So and you haven't know you have started a new project with air key another scoop of pure Sanjay that you have planted in another area. Can you tell us more about this project? Yeah. That's, if Boseciale is the project of Franchesco, my father, AFK is really the project of our generation. We were lucky enough to buy this land in nineteen ninety eight. It's a top of the hill, not in the roofing of municipality by is one of the four municipality of the roofing operation. We bought this land because for four vintages, we cultivated vignettes that were close by And then when we knew that there was this piece of land on sales we tried to buy, it's part of an amphitheatre that is all south facing where there are there are four others very good properties of roofing. One is Yveroni. The other one is El Capitano. Then there is a Charetto Library. And then there is another property of the Frisco Balte family. So the main difference is soil, soy unit is much rich of, limestone and also rich of iron. So the wines are completely different from, Selvapiana. And we planned the Venus in nineteen ninety nine, and we need after a few harvests, we saw a great difference. And so we decided to look for a new single Vigner from AirK. And the first of April sixteen, we waited that the VINians were old enough to give a very high quality and very complex and rich wines. So if you want to make comparison between and if you can talk about Chantee classic for example as a comparison. Busher Cali is much more similar to Guayali wines, fresh and fruity and very elegant. Airkey is more similar to casta nova better than to the southern part of the wine is a little bit more rich, more dark as well, a more vibrant fruit. And which one is, is great get maturity area, which is which club is obviously the first Airkey is always a harvest, probably five, seven days air, and then Busard Cali. And in these years, everything is changing due to ripening season and, harvesting time. By all his efforts with the ahead times compared to to Bush. It is also the convenience that we prune at the end to avoid the frost or late frost problems. You know, the climate design is a big, challenge nowadays for growers. Yeah. You anticipating my, my question exactly. This is it now. San Jose, it's an early, an early, but break. And a late harvest. So it needs a long growing season. Which practices have changed over the last twenty years to adapt to the climate change? A lot. Nearly. No. I I won't say everything, but a lot. If you speak with my father, for example, he never picked the grapes before the tenth of October, except to intouch nineteen ninety five. Nowadays, sometimes at the tenth of October, the new wine is already in Oak. So that means that we have changed many, manual, the practice that we were using to do. First of all, it's pruning, we prune it much later than before, try to have as late as possible bus break. Second, we don't do any more green harvest to delay the lightning as well and to have less for each grapes, we we don't need anymore because the the climate is even too warm. So we have enough sugar naturally. I I remember when I started to work at Silicon, we were happy when The higher level of of alkyl of the new wine was thirteen point five. Now we are happy when it's the the lower because there's too much sugar now in the grapes. Second, we are doing much different canopy management. We try to keep the the the grace in the shade as much as possible. And then we are trying to have, more deeper winter digging the soil more deeper to have more air and more water into the into the soil. We don't work anymore of the soil in the summertime. We do something like a cover crop to keep the cut grass on the soil to have a little bit of humidity and to avoid evaporation. And also when we know there's a big heat is coming, we try to protect the leaves and the grapes with the product like white clay to lower the temperature of the leaves and to avoid throughout and what has stressed to the banks. But now, honestly, climate is a big challenge to every vintage. Yeah. Lots of change. We're asking Yingress to adapt very fast to to unique situation. We know it's it's becoming, not easy. No. And and but the problem is that, as grow as we are always very late in changes. We don't like changes. So it's a it's a double challenge for us. Big changes and to see the climb taste so different. And and you have also few exiles in another population, Pumilo, which is not very far from, but it's another population, another climate, and, and style. What's the main difference do you see in between I I let's keep on San Jose grape, if if you agree. What's the main difference would be growing San Jose in Pompano and in Kaltiropina? First of all, for me, you know, is the is the one on the very old appalachian task and as we are saying before, it's a very small appalachian as well. There's only two producer. One is the Frisco Baldi family. They owns a large amount of peanuts up there, probably one hundred and twenty hectares. We have six sectors in Pomino. Pomino is very unique because it's very high. And we are very normal population. So four hundred and fifty meters in Pumino is a lot. And the main difference between roofing and Pumino is soil. In Pumino can find the de Galesto, the white sheist, and also climate. Pumino is even cooler than Rufina. And the right is even slower and even later. Same great between Selvapian and Pomena. There's only fifteen minutes away, but Selvapian is two hundred fifty, three hundred meters, per minute, two hundred fifty, five hundred meters. It's more than a five days. So they put me the to make a long story very short, the sangiovese Pomingo is a very, you know, we don't know our style of sangiovese. Very elegant, very fine, very soft long aftertaste, but quite fresh still. And, yeah, and a good production in Pumino. You can have. And the domain, if you're back to, a more general picture of can't you, solve a piano. The domain is surrounded by forest. You also own forest. It's, is it a plus for you to be in the middle of nature? Does it help you for for growing for growing grapes? I don't know. First of all, the woodland is very important because it brings us no. It's all it's very important because it brings us by diversity, richness in the plan present of, natural predator for the insect that can spoil the grape can also help a lot in having a little bit shade and cooler, wet at the end of the day. On the other side, having so much of woodland around. It's a big problem for wild birds and ideas. They can make lots of problem to the to the vineyards. So that's why even if it's not very beautiful to see all the vineyards as Selvapiana, completely fast to protect from wild boar and this. By end, and also Woodland is very important because, he gives us these presence of different, by diversity. Yeah. We we maybe next time we'd have to it would be nice to have, from from the local board. Yeah. It's a From from the local board. Yeah. It's a it's a big pest. They can be the deal is so many of these in Tuscany. And it's, it's quite dangerous and it's quite problematic for the growers. You can easily lose, fifty, twenty five percent of your crop in no. I won't say overnight, but in a couple of nights, if the white bar understood that they can get inconvenience. Oh, It's a lot. So Nikolo, your your son has joined you, at the domain recently. And I'm sure this is great too and a real proud to to work together, father, and son. How do you organize your work how do you separate tasks? I don't know. First of all, having Nick law, it's a great pleasure to work together. Secondly, it's not very easy. Normally, father is never the teacher of the son. That's why in the last four years, probably five four years, we hire an agronomist that help us first of all to be in between us and and second to help us to face the climate changing in all the work that we have to do in the vineyards. And secondly, Cloys is one hundred percent in charge of the seller nowadays. And so he does everything, without even, need to tell me what he does. He's very well educated. You you know, he he studied in in Alba, so he knows a little bit how to make wines, and he's been doing harvest, one in Oregon and one in Argentina and Chile. And then unfortunately, COVID, stop traveling. So otherwise, it would be in New Zealand and Australia as well to see how different properties and different areas and different reality makes wines and deal with wines and deal with the problems. Nowadays, we're completely in charge of the production. It's fun enough because nowadays, Franco Benabide is facing the third juneteenth city. He will speak directly to him about how to make the wines, how to make the plans, retails together, and they discuss together. So it's a great privilege to work with the sun. It's always easy. I enjoy a lot, and we share tasks very easily. And make make us talk a lot about what we we will do tomorrow. Yeah. Because the great challenge is to see for these size of properties what to do tomorrow and how to compete in the global market, how to compete, in terms of quality, what we want to improve with the quality, which kind of wine we want we would like to make, how we want to increase what we have done till now, which investment we need, with Venus, we need to replant, so I'm I'm now, there's a much more dedicated on all the trees if most dedicated on seller convenience, and I do the market as you know. Yeah. This has been preparing the future. Right? Yeah. It's very complicated because What I see is that, especially here in Tuscany or in Italy, but in Tuscany, for sure, big guys are becoming bigger and bigger. So the mark, they share the the the the room for small property is a little bit more difficult to find. We have been around for many years, and I think we'd be around for more years as well. Yeah, we have to know what we have to see and what we have who we have to face and how to help to improve. Unfortunately, enough, we work with the finding and the l and the head of that head pass a lot to find new markets. Well, thank you very much, Fiderico, for sharing with us all your your history, your knowledge, your your question also, on how to run an estate and to continue together as you were saying with your with your son. Thank you very much. I think that's a problem. No more question. But it was a pleasure. My pleasure. Hi there, Fanny. Okay. So, before you guys go anywhere, if if there's any questions from the audience, feel free to pose it now. We still have a couple minutes left. And if there isn't any, there is one. Ellen genuine. Yeah. Hello? And this is Ellen. This is Ellen who works with Fenny. Hi, everyone. Hi, Feterico. Hi, you know. Thanks so much for your, your conversation with Fannie. Every time you used to speak together, I learned so much more. And, I wanted to ask you specifically about your history with organics because when you started to convert the property to organics, so many years ago, you were one of the first, and I was wondering if you could kind of just talk a little bit about your history How if it was easy back then to start, if you had support and what the Keonti roofing operation is doing as a whole to kind of make that similar transition altogether? Thank you. I started as soon as I wasn't involved in a bit of property, we'd vintage, eighty eighty even if I was still a little bit at university. Franchesco at that time didn't allow me to do all the properties organic at once. But he gave me a couple of vignettes where he tried to do the organic methods. It was not easy. All the all the state team was quite skeptical at the beginning. After a couple of integers, eighty nine, ninety, and ninety one, three vintages, then we see the results. We see the also quality were not lower. It was probably even higher. Than another par parcel of the property. And and also costs that we are not so high. Franchesco allowed me to do Solapiana all organic, probably first winter was ninety one ninety two. At that time, it was no easy to leave all the chemical and go back to copper, to start to use properly, algae, and etcetera. But results and quality was much much better than we expected and then lower slowly as low as we also saw a great improvement in the quality of the soil. In terms of by diversity, in terms of life in the soil, And I will say it was a great step. It was a great result. Nowadays, the soils are very rich and very, very healthy. And roofing in general, is quite strong on organic. More than half of the property are already certified organic. When I was the president of the consultant, I tried to make Kanti roofina as a organic district or biODistritto, but it was a little more complicated because not everybody were on the same agenda yet. Pfizer will be a question of time that of the twenty two producer the the three or four, they are not yet organic will join your organic practice, and the roofing will be in organically district soon. The only problem is that certification we We are quite up and down with certification because we don't believe to match in bureaucracy and in certification. In the last seven years, we have been certified organic methods, they say, and everything. We don't certify yet wise. We will do from Vintech twenty twenty two. I'm very bad with paper and bureaucracy. That's why we didn't do all the certification at once. Thank you, Alan. Thank you, Fed. Do we have any more questions? We have someone, Andre, but Killeen. One second. Let's see here. Hi. Hello, Pedro. I am from Latina. I'm a dialing line ambassador. And I have a very practical question. In my seller, I have a three bottles of, Bhushalay two thousand fifteen thirteen and o nine. So could you describe the three integers, this bottle, maybe you taste those, I don't know, these days, and could could you give me some recommendation which one to open? Now, First of all, thank you for having the the bottles in your cellar. Second, you have three very good vintages. You know, as producer, we always say that every vintages are great. Probably have two of the best of intergies. I have, so he has Subbapiana o nine and thirteen. And I will say that thirteen now It's probably the best Busher Kelly in the cell at this moment in terms of complexity, richness, elegance, and long aftertaste. And all I was also a very good vintage. And it was, also a large crop vintage, similar to fifteen, probably a little bit more elegant. Of the tree, or nine is the wine that you can enjoy even now. Thirteen has a longer life. We, I would say probably another five, seven years with no problem. Within ten years. Fifteen is a little more complex vintage because it comes from a warmer vintage. So the one is a little more rich and a little more ripe. And it it is probably the less Busyak of the tree because it has more richness and it want ten minutes bigger body. And in terms of longevity, That's very hard to say. I do an an example. Ninety four, it was probably the best warm vintage that we had to face. It's still a very good wine. So we don't know about warmer winter if they will last or not. Our experience, they they can have a longer life because it's all due to balance of the wine. This one has written more alcohol, but it's also a good acidity. And pH is not so high. So I would say fifteen, you can drink now. I can even try in five seventy s to see the the result of a warm vintage in your seller. Thank you. You're very welcome. Alright. So if we don't have any more questions, any if there's anyone else, then, if if not, then I will go ahead and and close the room. Go ahead. I've got a comment for federico. It's Mark here. Please. Go ahead. Federico, I visited Selva Pianna in a very, very long time ago in nineteen ninety and met your father and also briefly met you. So it's been wonderful to hear hear your today and to know Thank you. I followed your story, and I followed your wines and to hear you today speaking so passionately and to know this great estate is in such good hands. So I just wanted to say bravo for everything you've done and are doing. Thank you very much. You are very kind. The next Generation will be even better than mine. So they said that is a good is it even better hands than nowadays when Nicolas and Rebecca will take you over one hundred percent. But thank you very much for for your words. That's very kind of you. No. I mean that. Thank you. Alright, everybody. Thank you so much to, to to feel the echo and Fanny. And I I wish you all a wonderful evening. This will replay on the podcast soon. So, until then, good night, everybody. Bye bye. Bye bye. Thank you very much. Thank you very much. Thank you very much. Bye. Very very kind of you. Doffer me. Talk tell y'all you. No. Good. Listen to the Italian wine podcast, wherever you get your podcasts, we're on SoundCloud, Apple Podcasts, Spotify, email ifm, and more. Don't forget to subscribe and rate the show. If you enjoy listening, please consider donating through Italian wine podcast dot com. Any amount helps cover equipment, production, and publication costs. Until next time, teaching. Hi, guys. I'm Joy Livingston, and I am the producer of the Italian wine podcast. Thank you for listening We are the only wine podcast that has been doing a daily show since the pandemic began. This is a labor of love and we are committed to bringing you free content every day. Of course, this takes time and effort not to mention the cost of equipment, production, and editing. We would be great for your donations, suggestions, requests, and ideas. 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