Ep. 1094 Davide Marino | Wine, Food & Travel With Marc Millon

Welcome to the Italian wine podcast. This episode has been brought to you by the wine to wine business forum twenty twenty two. This year, we'll mark the ninth edition of the forum to be held on November seventh and eighth of twenty twenty two in Verona Italy. This year will be an exclusively in person edition. The main theme of the event will be all around wine communication. Tickets are on sale now. So for more information, please visit us at wine to wine dot net. Welcome to wine food and travel. With me, Mark Millen, on Italian wine podcast. Listen in as we journey to some of Italy's most beautiful places in the company of those who know them best. The families who grow grapes and make fabulous wines. Through their stories, we'll learn not just about their wines, but also about their ways of life. The local and regional foods and specialities that pair naturally with their wines. And the most beautiful places to visit. We have a wonderful journey of discovery ahead of us, and I hope you will join me. Welcome to wine food and travel with me, Mark Millen, on Italian wine podcast. Today, we travel to Sardinia to visit Tinutta, Masonee Manu, in the northeast of the island. I'm delighted to be joined by my guest today, David marino, who is the export manager at this biodynamic estate in Gallura. It's high summer in Sardinia, and I'm guessing it's very hot Good morning, Mark. Yes. It's a it's a very hot period. The temperature is very, very high. And, no rain, forty, forty five centigrades, the medium, and especially in this week. Very, very hard to eat. Forty to forty five. That's, that's impressively hot. The the the wind is hot, right from the south, and, it's it's no easy, to work in this mode of this. It's very, very hot period. Very challenging. Well, to give our listeners, a a picture of of where the is located. Can you describe this part of Sardinia, what the landscape it is like? What's unique and special about Gallura, but also the challenges, I guess, with this heat and with the conditions, especially with the biodynamic aspects of the estate. Well, Maisonne, Maisonne man, who is burning ninety eighty two is a is a state. We both, the family and mandatory both with the state in July twenty eighteen. And the form, after the harvest, we start with the the the process for agriculture by dynamic way, like, in, rimini where we have the other one in the tarutumara. So the experience that we was in Tarutumara, we bring in muscle and manual too. And, is a a a winery, in, located in Monty. Monty is a a little a little city about twenty five kilometers from the old airport. So, from the coast is, about thirty kilometer. And, well, macedonian is a a a really wild land across, we find, amazing, winery, mazzo de manu, with the type of soils, especially, granitic rock and sandy. And, Devina Yarb is like in a in a in a wild situation because, inside the Maison de manu, we a natural lake. We have a plant of, olive oil, many plant of olive olive oil. We have many plant, production of cork. So we find a very interesting, vina yada to to work with especially white grape. Because, you know, in the north of Selvina, we found, verbatino de Galura is a is a docG, so it's most important, production. But there is other kind of, grape too, like, Canal, like, with a unique grape you can find there. Only in Cylvina. Okay. So I'm imagining this quite wild landscape with the granite rock outcrops. It's granite, which is such an important to giving the character above all to the Vermontino grape. Near the sea, but another world. Inland Sarginia is another world from from that affluent coast of the northeast where the or the Costa Maralda were the big yachts are and the, and and a different, a different world completely. So the amendatorre family decided to come to Sardinia in two thousand eighteen. What was the decision behind this. Why, Sardinia? Remini is completely different. You're talking about landscapes. It couldn't be more different. The family mandatory have the second house in, in Puertoosiergo, in Esmeralda Cross, So every summer going to make a, like, an holiday period of of holiday in, inylvina. And, during the twenty eighteen, I mean, the Tory are looking for find other winery. To to, produce, especially white wine because in Teruntamari, rimini, we have, totally, sangiovese grape, you know, and, regarding the commercial, you know, Mark, is most important that you have a white wine too. So during the twenty eighteen, we are looking for find a winery in Italy where there is the production of white wine. And, in the meantime, I arrive a friend of a mandatory, and tell him that there is Maison Lemano on sale. And, mister Jordono, going to see Mazonemano and fall in love immediately because, mazonemano is a very, is a very special state. It was, in nineteen eighty two was the first state cell the the wine directly, not the grape to the, the name is Cantina Sochar, you know, in in Moon. So it's, and Maison Amano is one of, the the the the state important for release, independent independent wine, you know, for sale. And, so Would that have been the Vermentino back then? Exactly. Exactly. Because the other winery, bring give the grape to the cantina sochar monkey, but don't production a bottle of wine. Maison Emmanuel was the the first winery independent to product a wine, a bottle, and sell to Oracle channel and, and, private co customer aside from from holiday, especially. Okay. That's important. But the the the the the particular of Maison Emmanuel is really the the the the ambiance, you know, the climate, the the soil, give us a very vertical wine, a very mineral wine, white wine very, sometimes strong because, you know, Vermentino is a stronger white wine. It's not it's not, soft, you know, look like sometimes to to vericchio in the style. The teacher from March, you know? Yes. In fact, and the Vermentino de Galura has a completely different character, for example, to the Pigato or the Vermentino from liguria, the favorito from Royal or the Vermentino in Tuscany as well, much more structure, much more body and and character, I guess. And you're finding that with I imagine this, had old vines. And were these old vines that have been on the estate for decades or longer? Yes. Maison emmanuel, we have, when we bought Maison emano, the it's state that the the the VINayar was, like, fifteen extra to dedicated to the grave, about totally fifty fifty actor, totally the property. Okay? And, we have employed the, the property. So at the moment, Ma'am, who is one hundred actor of property, and we want to arrive to plant about fifty hectares. So this is the mission of Amazon Aman, especially in the environment, you know, the Alura Bay. It's a unicorn, single estate. Yes. Well, let's keep talking about Vermentino about the vinification and how you achieve this wine with structure and character and and, concentration of of flavors and aromas. Well, Mazonano, the production of white wine is dedicated to four label. The most important is Patricia, the most important for the quantity, for the quantity. But it's the harvest is in sometimes is in the end of August, medium period is a is a end of August. The fermentation is spontaneously, and we work with an across cement. Right now. Okay. So the grape is is pick up that we have a scanned machine who read the single grape and take it off, a grape burns, leaves some animal, no. The scanner machine make a very, very best selection of the way. After that, the great drawing in the natural cement is like, the form of this cement is like a tool, you know, is about the three thousand and eight hundred liter, the content. And, we do many demos a day for staff documentation. And, the fermentation during about, ten days. And then, we we we we're cleaning a little bit. No filtration on the cleaning. And stay until, the end of February, middle of March in a in a in a discontinator. And then we bought them. Stay like one mountain bottle, and sometimes we we we present the wine, during the the Italy period. Okay. Okay. So, a real natural natural approach to the wine making? Completely natural approach, completely. The East is completely indigenous. There is no identification is a is a totally totally natural way. Controlling the temperature in these concrete tanks? Yes. Is is the control we can check the temperature, but we don't freeze the container. We have the possibility, to, control the temperature about one centigrade or less or close. Okay? Okay. So you're really letting the fermentation take its natural course? Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. Completely. Yeah. Exactly. The the other label, is the costarinas. Costaarinas come from, a vineyard have a twin, medium, twenty five years old. And, is more have more structure of one. And the the process of, fermentation is the same of the treats, but stay some more time in the container until May Okay. And we have both led the in June. In June, we bought with Costa arenas and start the commercial season. Are you enjoying this podcast? There is so much more high quality wine content available for mama jumbo shrimp. Check out our new wine study maps or books on Italian wine including Italian wine unplugged and much much more. Just visit our website, mama jumbo shrimp dot com. Now, back to the show. There are the third label is Rocailla. Rocailla, working a in a French oak. So we work with a a tonneau about five hundred liter. We use a a Taranso tonality because we find in Taranso a good quality of control. And regarding, okay, okay, stay in a trench about minimum twelve miles. Okay. So three very different expressions of Vermentino de Galura. Three different expression. And, in, in, two years ago, a new label is futa Ramana. Futa Ramana is the grape we find in a in a different size is about four hundred meter, and we find the grape a little bit different than the other side. Fantaramanu, when you try this wine, look like, like, like a riesling, you know? Interesting. There are either either carbori or farm that is, very, very particular wine. Stronger, but it's more stronger than the other. But it's a it's a very surprised. Oh, fascinating. It's no easy to propose to the the restaurant because when you go with this Vermentino, the people, look you and and say, but this is sovignon reasoning what is I don't know. This is very material, but No. How interesting. I imagine that might be a wine that would age well as well. Yeah. Yeah. Exactly. Of course, Verrentino is the white wine that will be enjoyed on the coast and with these wonderful feasts of seafood. Especially, especially. Yes. Patricia is most using a in in a by the glass in the Wain bar because it's a wine, you can make an affirmative, it's, more easy. You know? What would be some of the the typical Sardinian seafood dishes you would enjoy with your various Vermentino ones? Well, all all all the plate, well, there is, fresh fish, like, a patch or, like, like, a Capicante, like, or oyster. And, a typical a typical, plate with the seafood, with the crust. No. So that minerality of the Vermentino would really pair well with the local fish and shellfish. Last time, last time, I hit, after shocking, natural with the botarga upstairs. Interesting. Artichoke can be difficult to pair with vines. It's way stronger, but with putana mana was a very interesting fading. Now the red, lines of maison de manu are also interesting. The Canal, of course, which is Garnacha. Yes. The the the the the canona or the canona is a more freshness. It's totally different than the south of Serbia. No. In the south, the canona is is is stronger. It's more fruity. Of, I mean, a fat ton in, you know, instead in the north, Canal is more easy. It's a fresh network drink. It's more drinkable. And, our, you know, we work in, in natural concrete too. And, it's a wine. It's not dedicated to the, a long period to to stay involved, you know. What I mean, it's a wine that you have to consume in, in maximum two of all maximum three years after the bottle. Could you drink that a little bit chilled in the summer? Especially, it's it's better to to drink chilled. Yes. Yes. Oh, okay. Yes. It's more freshness. You have a good acidity, depending is softer. And another thing is that the the pH in our, soil is high. We have a pH about, less or more for three point nine four. The pHs of the wine. So our wine is is very smooth, very soft. The acidity is a good balance. We we don't have a wine with the very high acidity. Okay? So this you can find, especially in the red wine, and kind of now in the Carignan. Carignan, look like, So it's a it's a it's a little bit grain. A fruitier style? Yeah. Yeah. Look like merlot merlot. You know the merlot that you can drink in the in, like, in freely, in the northeast over, you know? Yeah. Reach of tanning, black in the color, and have a little bit more acidity than can run out. Okay. And the Bovale Sardo, a great people don't encounter very often. Tell us about bubalexaro. It's a very it's a very surprised because I have drink bubalexardo mixed to Canal now for release. Okay. But, in the winters twenty twenty, we have tried to work a Bovalcarbon to make a red wine. And surprise, we obtained, a red wine very, very interesting, very soft. Very dark color. And, there is, there is no, I think, another one to competition to Morizado. I don't find it at the moment because Oh, interesting. So quite light tannins. Yeah. Yeah. It's a it's a stay to to Canal to Karignan in the middle, okay, for for because Karignan is completely different, you know, sensation when you drink this wine. And bovales travel stay in the middle, have, have, a dark color, fruity noise, vegetal, and, sweet turning It's a very interesting. I don't find many Vobalecardo alone. Vobalecardo is used to mix with other red grape to obtain, rosette. Okay. So that's that's very interesting. That, you know, in the north, in Porto Chairman, in Elmeralda, across the Rosay going very better for sale. I think it's one of the unique zone in Italy where there is a very quantity of commercial of, Rosay wine because it's it's a rosette still. It's not sparkling. This would be again to enjoy with the in the restaurants of the coast. Exactly. I'm interested in this contrast between, Sardinia and Romania so different. The areas couldn't be more different, rimini in the summer, and the coast of Maralda, two different worlds. And then Of course, we have this interior of sardinia that's wild and not so inhabited and, you know, the shepherds with the sheep and the roast porche du, a different food traditions So the wines that you're making are also made for the Sardinian food traditions. Well, in a in a in a Romania, the area is dedicated to the to the only the younger people come from this or they know. But, they are changing right now. There are many family come, and ring me to make an holiday. There are many restaurant, make a good quality of, plate, you know, And, especially here, you can find, San Jose because this is an area of San Jose near the sea. So it's not, San Jose. You can find, in the center, like, in for refinance or Balonia. So it's more fresh, man. Again, more fresh in the way that the red wines you're making in Sardinia are fresher styles. Yeah. It's it's a we find a a similar kind of wine, you know, change change the the the the the the the the the quality of the grape, change the grape, but the style look like if you try our wine, in and, you try the one in, you can find the, the same way, okay, the same, hand to to make a wine. In different with different rate. How interesting? That's really interesting. And as well, the fact that both the states are being cultivated biodynamically, which is really allowing the The agronomist is the same. The agronomist that, work in Arizona one or two. In both wineries, there are there is no winemaker. Ma'am, there are two younger guys working in Albania, and then in the wine cellar. To release the the one. And, so you can you can find the the same, hand. I mean, the same mentality. The same mentality. Sure. That sounds so interesting. Yeah. Yeah. You know, and it and it's an indication of the importance of, philosophy and an approach to wine as much as the terroir. Therefore, the terroir change, you know, is a is a is a way to find a different quality. Because in in in Remini, here we have a climb limestone soil. The state is about eight kilometer in front of the sea. So many times, during the day, arrive many wind from the sea. With the self seed in it with the mini salt. Right? Instead of the the the distance is about thirty kilometers is a little bit different. The mineral we find in the soil with the granitic rock. Well, Daviday, it's been a fascinating conversation learning about about the Gallura area of Sardinia, this wild, beautiful estate of MazonE manu, but also the contrast with, tenutamara near rimini in, and how the two areas do have some similarities. I I would love to visit both proper And I'd like to taste the lines together as well. So I hope I can come out and see you sometime soon. When you have a possibility, we have, available to show you our boot, boot estate because it's very beautiful, very beautiful estate. Very nice contract to release a wine. For me that, I work, especially in export, have, a Vermentino de Gallure and San Luis to bring outside the, our accounts, you know, so US and China, and then in Australia. Of course. We we have a a very, very high quality to show to the buyer. No easy, but, we have a a a a not typical, you know, a shared name at all, Cabanor. But we have a a unique, grape, cultivated in in in Italy in two different zones. So this is what I'm looking for many portal from the other countries? Well, our our listeners are located all around the world in America, in Asia, in Australia, as well as in Europe. So I hope, they will look out for the wines from the two estates And indeed, when they're visiting Italy, whether Amelia Romagna or Sardinia, they will hook you up, taste the wines and, perhaps, visit as I plan to do myself. So, Davide, thank you very, very much. I look forward to seeing you soon. Thank you. Bye bye. Bye bye. We hope you enjoy today's episode brought to you by the wine to wine business forum twenty twenty two. This year, we'll mark the ninth edition of the forum to be held on November seventh and eighth twenty twenty two in verona Italy. Remember, tickets are on sale now So for more information, please visit us at wine to wine dot net. Hi, guys. I'm Joy Livingston, and I am the producer of the Italian wine pot. Thank you for listening. We are the only wine podcast that has been doing a daily show since the pandemic began. This is a labor of love and we are committed to bringing you free content every day. Of course, this takes time and effort not to mention the cost of equipment, production, and editing. We would be grateful for your donations, suggestions, requests, and ideas. For more information on how to get in touch, go to Italian wine podcast dot com.